March 7, 2003
I just returned from Amalfi and have the following tips:

1. We stayed in Amalfi but took a bus to Positano for the afternoon and a boat back. Found it very difficult to ambulate there and more touristy than Amalfi was. Therefore, I disagree with other postings that it is quiet and romantic. I saw hundreds of touristy shops and hundreds more vendors selling junk outside on the steps up to and down to the town.

2. In Amalfi, be sure to buy a pastry and a hot chocolate at Pansa Andrea which is to the right of the duomo in the center of town.
This place has the best pastries I have ever tasted in all of Italy! My son discovered that the rather plain looking pale yellow snowball-like pastry was the best. It is called delizione di limone. It is covered with lemon flavored cream and filled with 2 other kinds of lemon cream. Heavenly! (In contrast the tiramisu was rather plain and dry.)
The hot chocolate is like molten lava. A must wherever you can find this stuff!! Alas! Where can this be found on the East Coast, USA??
WARNING: for 3 to sit down outside for one pastry and one coffee/chocolate each, it will cost you approx. 20 Euro. If you can't afford that, just buy a "take away" pastry for 2 Euro and sit right outside on the church steps to enjoy the same treat.

3. If you are driving out of Amalfi to get back on the autostrada, be sure to take the wonderful scenic route s373 northward toward Ravello for an amazing panoramic view of all of Naples with Mt Vesuvius in the background. Leaving Amalfi along the coast, drive east and take your first lefthand turn (heading uphill). From autostrada A3, this route is marked with brown signs marked: costana amalfi.

4. Buy a 250L bottle of Mancardi 21 balsamic vinegar at one of the shops in Amalfi. I searched all over Italy for another bottle of this precious stuff and found it here in one groceria for 20 Euro and in another for 19. (I saw it later in Siena too.) Or you can order the same bottle from the States for about 75 USD from an italian website. This 21 year old vinegar is super. If you pour some into a shallow dish, the water will evaporate from it and it will become thick and syrupy in a few hours. Dip parmigiano reggiano cheese in it and enjoy. Otherwise right out of the bottle, it makes a very rich tasting dressing for salads and meats.

(see my quick and very important tips about mt vesuvius elsewhere!!)

Look for my other Quick Tips on Rome, Siena, Florence, Mt Vesuvius and Milan too!

GailT

We also preferred Amalfi... A few tips to add:

Visit the cathedral and the Cloister of Paradise. The self-guided tour is very good and interesting.

If you're into local artisans, walk up Via Fiume from the cathedral beyond all the shops until you see a small stone building on the left side of the street. A small sign identifies it as an antique paper mill. If you're lucky, Antonio Cavaliere will be there making paper.

The mill dates from 1200. Antonio has been making paper at this mill since the late 1940s. He doesn't speak English, but if you know a little Italian, a little Spanish or even high school Latin you'll be able to get the gist of the history and process of making paper. Antonio will make a piece of paper as you watch. The old mill equipment is still in place, although it looks like it hasn't been used in many years.

Antonio has been in magazines and travel videos about Amalfi. You can buy his hand-made paper and/or prints made on his paper. We bought a scene of the mill as it looked in about 1600 when a stream still ran down the middle of what is now Via Fiume. The print was only about 25-30 euros, and it's one of my all-time favorite souvenirs.

i took note of your tips. i will be in italy in oct. and have been to sorrento and capri, but havent been to positano. for that reason, i was thinking of going to positano and then getting to capri from there. now maybe i'll change my mind. it really doesnt matter which town, i just want to see the panorama.how easy will it be to get to capri from either positano or amalfi? i took the ferry from sorrento before.

you can catch a boat to capri from either place. positano is closer so the ride won't be so long or as expensive. the ride to capri from amalfi is about 1 hour 15 minutes.

note that other postings have warned visitors to hike out of town to the un-touristy area of the island. we didn't get there this time, but will follow that advice in the future.

buon viaggio and don't forget Pansa Andrea for hot chocolate and pastries in amalfi!

GailT

I have been to both Amalfi and Positano and definitely prefer Positano! I am going back for the 4th time in 6 years. Don't miss Ravello and Villa Cimbrone.

Hi Gail,

Thanks for the tips.

How did you get the 250L bottle of vinegar home?

Gail -
If you're near NYC and looking for molten like hot chocolate - City Bakery on 18th Street between 5th and 6th has a very thick version. I order a demitasse cup instead of a regular cup because it's soooo rich. With the cool weather still persisting they may be still serving hot chocolate - not sure. Also their pastries are some of the best in the city.

And thanks for the tips regarding Amalfi.

Completely agree with Gail's comments on Positano. Amalfi seems much more relaxed

If you continue walking through Amalfi
you eventually reach Valle dei Mulini
(valley of the mills) home to the carta bambagina (paper making industry of old) with several derelict paper mills.
You can continue up the valley to Pontone(2hrs)

Regarding the balsamic vinegar:
I routinely transport olive oils and vinegars home in my suitcases. (They last longer than a bottle of wine does...)I just wrap lots of dirty laundry around each bottle and place it in the middle of my suitcase. Each goes into a plastic bag too just in case one leaks.

Hi Gail,

I think you meant to say 250 *ml* not 250 L. That's about 65 gal.

Do not take long bus rides along the Amalfi Coast on Sundays and Public Holidays,as the traffic could add hours to your journey.Instead go up into the hills above Positano or Ravello and enjoy a lunch in one of the places used by the locals.

gailt:

just returned from amalfi. decided to try your suggestion to try delizion di limone at pansa andrea. when we got there it was closed! i was so dissappointed. had delizione di limone somewhere else and it was good. the next morning after breakfast it noticed pansa andrea's was open. even though i had just had breakfast at our hotel i know i had to try the delizione di limone there. it was fantastic! amalfi is such a beautiful little town. we stayed at hotel la bussola by the marine. very nice and good view. short walk to the town center also.

Re: Hotel Bussola
To: Buttons
Can you please let me know how you would compare Hotel Bussola to Hotel Dei Cavalieri (if you are familiar with it). Does the Bussola have access to a beach? Do the rooms have terrace? How is the view? Is it quiet? Thanks.

Hi GailT:

Do you know where I can connect with one-day hiking trips from Amalfi? Thanks.

Hi GailT - I have booked 4 days at the Miramalfi for next summer (with wife and 2 teenage kids) but am now doubting that due to the many opinions that Positano is better/prettier - I don't think you agree with that so please help convince me !!

We would like to go to Pompeii - do you recommend a private car/bus/?? to get there and back

Also did you go to Capri? Good reviews but seems very touristy and would take up a chunk of time so would rather do a shorted more localized boat trip

All comments appreciated!

Thanks

Love this recommendation! Thanks!