Amalfi coast advice please!
Jan 21st, 2005, 04:32 PM
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Amalfi coast advice please!
We will be taking the train from Florence to Salerno...so here are a few questions that I'm hoping you all can help with..
1. Suggest a town which is a good base - so that we dont have to drive to other places. We would rather take public transit/boats etc (I'm a squeamish passenger!!)I understand Sorrento isnt that great. Right now we have a hotel booked in Positano and Amalfi...which one is better for someone who doesnt want to drive..
2. How does one get from Solerno to Positano/Amalfi - quickest/cheapest/safest way!
3. Any advice on hotels (right now we're booked at Villa Lara (Amalfi) and Villa Gabrisi (Positano) and am considering Hotel Onda Verde in Praiano...but am open to other suggestions..
1. Suggest a town which is a good base - so that we dont have to drive to other places. We would rather take public transit/boats etc (I'm a squeamish passenger!!)I understand Sorrento isnt that great. Right now we have a hotel booked in Positano and Amalfi...which one is better for someone who doesnt want to drive..
2. How does one get from Solerno to Positano/Amalfi - quickest/cheapest/safest way!
3. Any advice on hotels (right now we're booked at Villa Lara (Amalfi) and Villa Gabrisi (Positano) and am considering Hotel Onda Verde in Praiano...but am open to other suggestions..
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:12 PM
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buses run regularly Salerno-Amalfi or Positano as do boats in season. either one makes a great base; I like Amalfi better as an old town buy for a base doesn't matter as boats or buses run frequently from these towns all along the coast Salerno-Sorrento. Great hike: Amalfi-Rapollo on a footpath up a lush valley - just a few miles but gets steep near the end.
Jan 21st, 2005, 05:46 PM
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Did you mean Amalfi-Ravello, PalQ? If so, it is much easier in my opinion to start at Ravello and work your way down to Amalfi!
I've stayed in Positano and in Ravello, but in my opinion if you want to do the area by public transportation, your best bet is staying in Amalfi.
I've stayed in Positano and in Ravello, but in my opinion if you want to do the area by public transportation, your best bet is staying in Amalfi.
Jan 21st, 2005, 06:49 PM
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SALERNO to Amalfi is best done by boat in my opinion. It's a fairly short walk, we pulled our luggage from the train station to the dock for the boat. The boat trip is about a half hour. As I recall the bus trip is about the same.
Jan 21st, 2005, 06:51 PM
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For the distance from Salerno to Amalfi (25 km), check this:
http://www.viamichelin.it
but don't consider the time. It probably takes about one hour (more by bus)
Anywhere on the Amalfi coast, the Sita bus is the cheapest public transportation. But if you stay in Ravello, you need to catch one more bus.
P.s.: "Sorrento is not that great"???
I don't agree.
http://www.viamichelin.it
but don't consider the time. It probably takes about one hour (more by bus)
Anywhere on the Amalfi coast, the Sita bus is the cheapest public transportation. But if you stay in Ravello, you need to catch one more bus.
P.s.: "Sorrento is not that great"???
I don't agree.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 04:51 AM
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Thanks...we're going in the first week of July which I assume is peak season -which means all forms of transportation will be operational in full swing...
How many of you recommend driving? My husband is pretty keen on it..while I dont want to be a white knuckled passenger all through our stay!
francesco_m
Sorrento isnt that great: From what I gather theres not much to see/do there.I say this based on my last post about the area..nothing personal
How many of you recommend driving? My husband is pretty keen on it..while I dont want to be a white knuckled passenger all through our stay!
francesco_m
Sorrento isnt that great: From what I gather theres not much to see/do there.I say this based on my last post about the area..nothing personal
Jan 22nd, 2005, 05:20 AM
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We've driven a lot of places and I think the Amalfi Drive being touted as the WORST is really wrong. Sure it's high and curvy, but there are sturdy and fairly high guard rails or stone barricades all along the way.
Roads we've driven that were much worse: many coastal roads in Ireland,
crossing the northern central part of Corsica, and the worst of them all. Highway 1 in California south of Mendocino. Now that was scarey -- no guard rails at all, and me as a passenger south bound hanging out over the cliffs looking straight down!
I've also mentioned here about getting stuck in Amalfi one day when we left our car in Positano and took the boat to Amalfi, but the seas got rough and they cancelled the boats. We spent hours in the late afternoon missing bus after bus back to Positano because they were filled. We finally joined the locals and pushed our way, (old ladies and babies be damned), to squeeze onto one bus. We stood, packed like sardines for that horrible ride from Amalfi to Positano. This summer we spend a couple days in Ravello without a car, and each time we took the bus up, we saw people standing on the sidewalk who couldn't squeeze on, so were going to wait for the next one an hour later. Hope they got aggressive and pushed on, or else they may still be there.
I'd never count on public transportation in that area unless you have lots of time to waste -- at least if it's the busy season.
Roads we've driven that were much worse: many coastal roads in Ireland,
crossing the northern central part of Corsica, and the worst of them all. Highway 1 in California south of Mendocino. Now that was scarey -- no guard rails at all, and me as a passenger south bound hanging out over the cliffs looking straight down!
I've also mentioned here about getting stuck in Amalfi one day when we left our car in Positano and took the boat to Amalfi, but the seas got rough and they cancelled the boats. We spent hours in the late afternoon missing bus after bus back to Positano because they were filled. We finally joined the locals and pushed our way, (old ladies and babies be damned), to squeeze onto one bus. We stood, packed like sardines for that horrible ride from Amalfi to Positano. This summer we spend a couple days in Ravello without a car, and each time we took the bus up, we saw people standing on the sidewalk who couldn't squeeze on, so were going to wait for the next one an hour later. Hope they got aggressive and pushed on, or else they may still be there.
I'd never count on public transportation in that area unless you have lots of time to waste -- at least if it's the busy season.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 07:03 AM
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nks267:
Your opening post says you're interested in a good base with public transportation, so that you "don't have to drive to other places", then you follow it with the statement that you've heard that "Sorrento isn't that great". Sorrento is the town in that area with the most connections via public transportation to tourist sites, as well more active in the evenings and at night. Positano and Amalfi both have other qualities to recommend them.
I gather from your post and negative comment about Sorrento that you have never yet visited the Amalfi Coast, or seen Sorrento and other towns for yourself?
Your opening post says you're interested in a good base with public transportation, so that you "don't have to drive to other places", then you follow it with the statement that you've heard that "Sorrento isn't that great". Sorrento is the town in that area with the most connections via public transportation to tourist sites, as well more active in the evenings and at night. Positano and Amalfi both have other qualities to recommend them.
I gather from your post and negative comment about Sorrento that you have never yet visited the Amalfi Coast, or seen Sorrento and other towns for yourself?
Jan 22nd, 2005, 08:21 AM
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You're right Bellastar I havent been to the Amalfi coast, which would explain the string of questions. I had in a previous post asked about which would be a better base: Sorrento/Amalfi...thats when almost all fodorites stated that Sorrento isnt that great...so I moved on from that area on to Positano/Amalfi. I did do research on all these areas and I find that most guides stated that Sorrento may be a good base, but perhaps not the ideal one.
To Patrick
Thanks for putting another facet to the driving dillemma!
I'm still on the fence about renting a car versus public transit...I got really jumpy when we were in Mumbai/Delhi (cars got too close!) but have driven along the Pacific Coast highway/Highway 1 from SFO to Carmel and even to LA...so if that was worse, this shouldnt be so bad. I dont want to spend my vacation waiting in line to get on a bus! I somehow imagined no guardrails a free for all driving range!!
To Patrick
Thanks for putting another facet to the driving dillemma!
I'm still on the fence about renting a car versus public transit...I got really jumpy when we were in Mumbai/Delhi (cars got too close!) but have driven along the Pacific Coast highway/Highway 1 from SFO to Carmel and even to LA...so if that was worse, this shouldnt be so bad. I dont want to spend my vacation waiting in line to get on a bus! I somehow imagined no guardrails a free for all driving range!!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 09:19 AM
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nks
Another tip about driving a car versus getting on a bus at the height of the tourist season: when approaching one of the famous hairpin turns, if there is a bus negotiating the turn, you will very lokely find that all cars must back up to give way for the bus. This is not an uncommon event. I've visited the Amalfi Coast several times (7), and have not yet had the experience that Patrick describes, although I have no doubt it happened, because i saw number of stressed out tourists who missed various buses in Amalfi, and were sometimes confused about which bus was the next one. The buses can be crowded, since they carry local people and must also accommodate large numbers of tourists. The bus drivers are excellent across the board, IMO. Good luck in your travels, and I hope you give Sorrento a visit, you never know, you might find something to like about it!
Another tip about driving a car versus getting on a bus at the height of the tourist season: when approaching one of the famous hairpin turns, if there is a bus negotiating the turn, you will very lokely find that all cars must back up to give way for the bus. This is not an uncommon event. I've visited the Amalfi Coast several times (7), and have not yet had the experience that Patrick describes, although I have no doubt it happened, because i saw number of stressed out tourists who missed various buses in Amalfi, and were sometimes confused about which bus was the next one. The buses can be crowded, since they carry local people and must also accommodate large numbers of tourists. The bus drivers are excellent across the board, IMO. Good luck in your travels, and I hope you give Sorrento a visit, you never know, you might find something to like about it!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 09:27 AM
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To clarify, I never thought Route 1 from SFO to Carmel was bad. It was the part north of San Francisco towards Mendocino!!
Another comment about the busses. The worst problem for us was that all the busses going to Positano from Amalfi were through busses coming from Salerno. They'd stop in Amalfi already packed and no one or only a couple would get off. Yet there were dozens waiting to get on. The driver would say "complete" and leave everyone standing there. It was generally less bad for the individual line going from Amalfi to Ravello. At least those busses started empty!
And regarding driving the highway, the best thing that can happen is to follow a bus. That way you follow it through all the areas where the cars have backed up to accomodate it. I can't say I'd want to commute the Amalfi highway every day, but taking your time, pulling off to sightsee where there is an opportunity, and just being cautious make it a less than "nightmarish" trip.
Another comment about the busses. The worst problem for us was that all the busses going to Positano from Amalfi were through busses coming from Salerno. They'd stop in Amalfi already packed and no one or only a couple would get off. Yet there were dozens waiting to get on. The driver would say "complete" and leave everyone standing there. It was generally less bad for the individual line going from Amalfi to Ravello. At least those busses started empty!
And regarding driving the highway, the best thing that can happen is to follow a bus. That way you follow it through all the areas where the cars have backed up to accomodate it. I can't say I'd want to commute the Amalfi highway every day, but taking your time, pulling off to sightsee where there is an opportunity, and just being cautious make it a less than "nightmarish" trip.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 09:46 AM
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I think the question is what you mainly plan to do on the Amalfi Coast. If you want to stay in a beautiful place with great views, mostly for beach time or hikes, then you should choose Positano or Amalfi.
But if you are looking for a base from which you can explore other areas nearby, you really can't beat Sorrento. The train from Sorrento will get you quickly to Pompeii or Naples, and the ferries run all the time to Capri. Driving anywhere from the Amalfi Coast is very time-consuming, even in the off-season, and you've seen some comments here about the problems with the buses.
So ... it's really a tradeoff where you have to figure out what your priorities are. If you plan to do a lot of exploring of other places, you will be spending more time getting to and from those places from anywhere except Sorrento.
But if you are looking for a base from which you can explore other areas nearby, you really can't beat Sorrento. The train from Sorrento will get you quickly to Pompeii or Naples, and the ferries run all the time to Capri. Driving anywhere from the Amalfi Coast is very time-consuming, even in the off-season, and you've seen some comments here about the problems with the buses.
So ... it's really a tradeoff where you have to figure out what your priorities are. If you plan to do a lot of exploring of other places, you will be spending more time getting to and from those places from anywhere except Sorrento.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 10:59 AM
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Patrick,
What time of year were you in Amalfi and relying on public transportation? I understand that August is peak vacation time; would late June be that bad? Re: trying to get on the bus from Amalfi to Positano--I wonder what would happen if you rode the bus TO Salerno, then hopped on the empty bus back to Positano?
A scenic bus ride may be a better way to spend that time than standing with a mass of impatient people!
What time of year were you in Amalfi and relying on public transportation? I understand that August is peak vacation time; would late June be that bad? Re: trying to get on the bus from Amalfi to Positano--I wonder what would happen if you rode the bus TO Salerno, then hopped on the empty bus back to Positano?
A scenic bus ride may be a better way to spend that time than standing with a mass of impatient people!
Jan 22nd, 2005, 12:21 PM
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As usual you guys give the best advice. Loving it. How many days would you stay in the area? I'm going to the Amalfi this July as well and as per "Under the Tuscan Sun" would like to explore the region especially Positano and Capri. Would 3 days be ok.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 01:50 PM
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When I rented an apartment for two weeks in Amalfi last year I worked out a good routine. The busses park in the square by the sea, you buy your ticket, check a schedule and then board the bus you want. There are attendants milling around the busses who will direct you. Sometimes the busses sit there for about an half hour before they leave so you can get on, stamp your ticket and get a good seat. While you wait you can read, people watch and try to eavesdrop on the locals who board the busses early and then kid around with the drivers and update their gossip.
The busy times are after school lets out and when the locals are going to and from work. Add to this tourists and you get crowded busses.
Watch the movie "Beat the Devil" and notice the original version of the Amalfi Coast bus with people hanging out of the windows, cheering, etc.
The busy times are after school lets out and when the locals are going to and from work. Add to this tourists and you get crowded busses.
Watch the movie "Beat the Devil" and notice the original version of the Amalfi Coast bus with people hanging out of the windows, cheering, etc.
Jan 22nd, 2005, 02:45 PM
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Thanks everyone...I get the picture..we're going to be there for around 4 days and want to do one day trip to Pompeii and one to Capri..just want to take it easy...which of these 2 places has better restaurants? Beaches?
Jan 23rd, 2005, 05:25 PM
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nks267- What 2 places? Pompei and Capri?...in this case definitely Capri!...even though it's overpriced. Unfortunately Pompei has almost only touristy restaurants.
All the other places on the coast have great restaurants (Ravello, Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento and so on).
As a "Sorrentino" I must make a wish...:that you'll make your judgement about Sorrento after you'll have seen it. Some places don't need to have a Coliseum or a Leaning tower in the middle in order to say that there is "something" to see or do, some places give more than that: the beauty of the land, the food , the warmth of people, and more...
Anyway there must be a reason why some people have been to Sorrento 20 or 30 times and keep coming.
P.s.: I love Positano and the Amalfi coast, they're just different places, all worth to be visited.
All the other places on the coast have great restaurants (Ravello, Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento and so on).
As a "Sorrentino" I must make a wish...:that you'll make your judgement about Sorrento after you'll have seen it. Some places don't need to have a Coliseum or a Leaning tower in the middle in order to say that there is "something" to see or do, some places give more than that: the beauty of the land, the food , the warmth of people, and more...
Anyway there must be a reason why some people have been to Sorrento 20 or 30 times and keep coming.
P.s.: I love Positano and the Amalfi coast, they're just different places, all worth to be visited.
