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9 Nights: Madrid, Asturias, Basque region. Need help with Asturias

9 Nights: Madrid, Asturias, Basque region. Need help with Asturias

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Old Mar 4th, 2019 | 10:46 AM
  #1  
mdn
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9 Nights: Madrid, Asturias, Basque region. Need help with Asturias

hi,
My wife and I are going to Madrid, Asturias and Basque region at the end of May. We,d been in the Basque region last year and are familiar with that area and Madrid - we loved it so much we are going right back to celebrate my bday in San Seb!. Asturias is the big unknown.

Plan is to fly to Oviedo, rent a car and spend 3 nights in Asturias. Maybe 2 nights in/near Cangas de Onís at a nice “Casona” and a third night in Llanes or Ribadesella. Ant recommendations for Casonas with nice views of the Picos de Europa or would you recommend a BnB or a hotel? The Palacio de Cutre Casona recommended on some sites*is already fully booked.*If weather allows we’re planning on the Lagos de Covadonga and maybe the Garganta de Cares gorge hikes. We will arrive in OVIEDO on Saturday morning and drive to Cangas from there.*

The Sunday morning market in Cangas is on out list and so is the cathedral of a Covadonga along with the Roman bridge. Mirador del Fitu for views.Not planning on visiting the town of Potes as the views from the west side of park are said to be better.*

Restaurants on out hit*list in Asturias are Gueyu Mar, La Huertona, Casa Gerardo (near Oviedo). Appreciate help with hotel/BnBs and any other insights. Many thanks!
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Old Mar 4th, 2019 | 04:12 PM
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kja
 
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If you haven't already seen it, you'll find some restaurant suggestions and other information in my trip report:
Four Awesome Weeks in the North of Spain and Catalunya

Do consider at least a day in Oviedo!
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Old Mar 5th, 2019 | 09:02 AM
  #3  
mdn
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Thanks kja! Great trip report! Based on your experience, would you say we can skip Potes if we do two nights in/near Cangas de Onis? Mostly interested in the views and a couple of hikes. The alternative is to book one night in Cangas and make a decision regarding where to spend the next night based on how day 1 weather is and how we like it there. The 2nd night's option would be Potes. We were not planning to spend a night in Oviedo. Upon arrival, we are planning to spend the late morning and afternoon in Oviedo before driving to Cangas in the early evening. Thanks!
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Old Mar 5th, 2019 | 01:37 PM
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We had almost two weeks in Asturias, with one detour to Astorga to eat at what some have dubbed Spain's best steak restaurant, EL CAPRICHO.

Our Asturias trip was focused on food, as we had been to the area previously and now were more narrow in our geographic area. We rented a car in Oviedo, after spending four nights in the city. The one outstanding restaurant there was CASA FERMIN, and CASA GERARDO, which we visited for lunch one day, from Oviedo..easy drive..not to be missed..must have the Pitu.

From Oviedo, we drove to the tiny hamlet of Cofiño, just a spray of houses, really. We spent four nights at PUEBLO ASTUR, which I liked a lot but which is on the pricey side. it is a couple of minutes ride from the Mirador. From there we drove to *La Huertona--very easy driving in this area-- and would recommend, but be there early if you want the full selection of fish. They were out of the Pez rey by the time we arrived for 3pm lunch. *

Ribasedella would be a great base, for from the town you can travel to GUEYU MAR which I was very sad to have to miss. *

Also from PUEBLO ASTUR we dined at CASA MARCIAL (Chef/Owner Nacho Manzano) and CASA DEL INDIANU in Arriondas. The first was more exciting; both are excellent, but I think in Asturias the draw, food-wise, is in the more rustic places. , In Luarca, we liked BAR SPORT but there are lots of other choices as well. We use REPSOL for a lot of eating advice.

On the Sunday that you visit the market in Cangas, I would highly recommend lunch at MOLIN DE MINGO..highly, highly recommend. Biggst recommend outside of FERMIN inn Oviedo and GERARDO in Prendes, near Gijon.

Must reserve in advance at MOLIN DE MINGO, and to for lunch. But do not approach from Cangas, approach from the Arriondas road. *Be prepared for quite the drive. *I will say no more!!

I do not think there are great restaurants in Cangas although the town is quite lovely, it is quite the tourist town. On a previous visit we stayed at the parador which is outside town but within a long walking distance. On that visit we went to Potes but did not feel the need to return.. *We do not hike. *The beauty of this region, and this area of Asturias, is that coast and mountains are so close in drive time..you can stay on the coast and still hike in the mountains, or vice versa. * Did I say we adored it??? *Did I say I want to return??*

I am happy to help you in any way I am able. We adored Asturias and I hope to return within the next couple of years.

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Mar 5th, 2019 at 01:42 PM.
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Old Mar 5th, 2019 | 04:28 PM
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kja
 
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Originally Posted by mdn
Thanks kja! Great trip report! Based on your experience, would you say we can skip Potes if we do two nights in/near Cangas de Onis? Mostly interested in the views and a couple of hikes. The alternative is to book one night in Cangas and make a decision regarding where to spend the next night based on how day 1 weather is and how we like it there. The 2nd night's option would be Potes. !
I'm glad you found some value to my trip report -- thanks for letting me know! If your primary goal is to hike, than staying in or near Cangas de Onis probably makes most sense. I enjoyed Potes, but would not consider it a must-see.
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Old Mar 6th, 2019 | 01:17 PM
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mdn
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Wow Ekscrunchy! You should follow in Maribel's footsteps and write your own food guide to Spain, Italy and so on! Your food recommendations are ALWAYS spot on; e.g. La Figurida in Tremezzo Italy was OUTSTANDING!

We won't be able to hit El Capricho as we won't be in that area, but wonder if this steak beats the one at Extebarri, which I had the privilege of trying last year! Casa Gerardo is on the list but logistics are proving a bit difficult. We land in Oviedo early enough for lunch that day. Goal was to try 4 restaurants: Casa Gerardo, Gueyu Mar, La Huertona and Molin de Mingo. Dinner at Gueyu Mar or La Huertona difficult as they open at 9:30 pm and not looking to drive at a late hour after drinking some wine.
I was hoping to stay in the foothills of the Picos at La Casona de Abamia, a few minutes outside Canas, where they have a 2 night minimum on weekends and also no restaurant for dinner! If I forgo staying in this Casona and choose Ribadesella as our base, it could make things a bit easier for dinner. Perhaps it'll be less picturesque from our room, but we will have spectacular views when we do the lakes hike on Sunday if weather allows. Based on feedback here, I think a quick two nights will suffice for us as we are largely going for the hikes & scenery in the Picos and the Asturian food.

I also have Restaurant Elkano on our list as we make our way east to San Sebastian. Ekscrunchy, will this be seafood overload and maybe I choose one of Gueyu Mar/La Huertona in Ribadesella rather than both? Choices, choices!
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Old Mar 6th, 2019 | 04:41 PM
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This restaurant , Casa Poli in Puertas de Vidiago for fish and seafood. The picture is geotagged:


And probably the only one in Quiróswhich serves a pote de Asturias based on chestnuts rather than beans. It's one of the houses on the right side of the picture:

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Old Mar 6th, 2019 | 09:50 PM
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Another restaurant is El Globo in Gijon:

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Old Mar 7th, 2019 | 04:52 AM
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Yes, stay in Ribasedella. There is a wonderful hotel there that we toured and where I would surely stay. VILLA ROSARIO. On the beach and within an easy drive of the two restaurants. And you can be in the mountains in a half hour. And it would not be a terrible drive to CASA GERARDO.

The steak at El Capricho was not as good as the one at Extebarri, in my opinion. The restaurant was an experience, for certain!! I think that there are many restaurants in Basque country and northern regions with great steak.
I just came back from Seville and I had a great steak, there, too!!

Do try to go to Elkano.

I, sorry to say, did not get to GUEYU MAR. I had lunch at LA HUERTONA and while it is a lovely restaurant, I was disappointed cause we ate so late that they no longer had the fish I wanted to try, so the meal was excellent but not that memorable. I don't think you can go to too many seafood places, and remember that all of them, or almost all, will have meat on the menu, too. Those two restaurants open for dinner at 9pm according to the websites, I think. La Huertona would be a quick easy drive from the hotel I mentioned, and Gueyu Mar not too bad.

Could you possibly go to CASA GERARDO after landing? I know that is tough if coming from the US (is that where you are coming from??) but maybe it would work..just an idea although not a great one.
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Old Mar 8th, 2019 | 01:01 PM
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mdn
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Thanks Michael - pote de Asturias sounds rather unique! Ekscrunchy - we fly NYC - MAD, spend a night in Madrid and then fly to OVD. So, yes, the plan is to start with lunch at Casa Gerardo. Villa Rosario is a great suggestion - solves many logistical issues. I've also looked up Lua in Madrid based on your trip report from some time ago. Looking for something traditional rather than fancy/deconstructed/molecular... We're staying at Hotel Urso in Madrid where they seem to do pop-up concepts every couple of months. They have a restaurant called Media Ración, an new incarnation of a popular Madrid bistro called Cuenllas. May try that. Cheers & thanks all! Will report back.
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Old Mar 9th, 2019 | 01:15 AM
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In Madrid, maybe Tasquita de Enfrente, even though from where I sit, prices look very high.. maybe the norm for Madrid's top tables.

My sister thought that Manduca de Azagra was wonderful a few weeks ago.....I got that name, and so much else, from Maribel. I have both on my list for next time.

Remember, the chicken at Casa Gerardo. You will not believe these chickens!

https://www.productosdeasturias.com/...a-chicken.html

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Mar 9th, 2019 at 01:29 AM.
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