ranald

We are planning a trip to Spain for May 2004 & would appreciate any comments about our itinerary.
Madrid 4 nights Palacio San Martin
To Seville by AVE then Casas de la Juderia for 3 nights.
Pick up car & drive to Caceres for 2 nights at the Parador.
On to Salamanca for 2 nights at Hotel Rector.
On the way to Santiago, overnight in Orense at Pazo Bentrances manor house.
Then to Santiago for 2 nights at the Parador.
Next stop at Figueras for 2 nights at Palacente Penalba.
Then to Oviedo for one night at Hotel La Reconquista.
Next stop is Llanes for 2 nights at La Arquera.
Then to Bilbao for 2 nights at Hotel Lopez de Haro.
Finally, 2 nights in San Sebastian at Hotel Londres e Inglaterra. Fly back to Madrid.

I am not sure whether the Salamanca-Orense leg may not be too long. If so, any suggestions for an alternative stopover on the way to Santiago.

My other doubt is whether 2 nights in Bilbao may be too much, or if we would be better staying in the countryside & travelling into Bilbao. Is there much to see other than the Guggenheim museum?

I would appreciate any feedback.

Thanks

Maira

Let's see, 11 cities/hotels in 23-24 days.....YIKES!!!. Your most vivid memory of this trip will be loading/unloading a suitcase. Somehow that itinerary needs some consolidation on cities and sequencing. If you MUST go to Seville on this trip, why are you also going to Caceres for two days? I would skip Caceres, train back to Madrid, get the car and head out to Salamanca for your 2 full days stay. I prefer the Salamanca-Leon-Santiago route; a bit farther, but Leon is a favorite city of mine in Spain; wouldn't miss it. In Leon, try to stay at the Parador (overnight; one of the best on the Paradores System) or Posada Regia right in the Old Town (loved it!). From Leon, straight shoot to Santiago with a stop at Ponferrada (visit the Castle of the Knights of Templar, headquarters of the Official guardians of the Route to Santiago; impressive medieval castle so well preserved!). It will probably be the longest drving day, but it will get you where you need to be when you need to be there. On Santiago, stay some days, day trip to Figueras (why are you going there an overnight; it is about two hours from Santiago ). On the rest of the route, I haven't been to Oviedo-Llanes- Bilbao, but it looks to me an overnight stopover in Llanes may be more hassle than its worth, why don't you stop ther on your way to Bilbao or daytrip from Bilbao?

In a synopsis, you need to pick a max of 5 (maybe 6) cities in this trip from where to have extended stays and be able to day trip from there. My suggestions are Madrid, Seville (if you must on this trip....), Salamanca, Santiago, Oviedo, Bilbao.

Maribel

ranald,
I agree with Maira that you have a huge chunk of Spanish geography to cover in 24 days, from south to north covering Madrid, Andalucia, Extremadura, Castilla-León, Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, Euskadi (País Vasco).

For a more relaxing journey, I'd certainly include some 3 night stays, so you won't find yourself constantly packing and unpacking.

And as Maira suggests, I'd actually skip Seville and Cáceres and concentrate on beautiful, green, mountainous Northern Spain that Maira, the many other Spain aficionados here love. May will be a nice and uncrowded time to visit.

For 23 nights, I'd limit my trip to Madrid &Castilla-León, Galicia, the Cantabrian coast and Euskadi.

First, 4 nights in Madrid.

From Madrid, I'd head directly to the Hotel Rector in Salamanca for 2 days. Perfect.

Then I'd do that overnight at the Pazo Betrances in Orense and visit the Jewish quarter, the alhama, of Ribadavia, featured in The Most Beautiful Villages of Spain.
It's neat to overnight in one of the wonderful Pazos de Galicia, plus Salamanca to Santiago most certainly needs an overnight in between. The Salamanca-Orense leg is a bit long. The alternatives would be the modern Parador in Puebla de Sanabria (too close to Salamanca) or the hilltop Parador in Verín, but the town of Verín is quite ugly.
The brand new Parador at Monforte de Lemos is a bit too far northeast.

From Orense, before Santiago, for some R&R, I'd spend 3 nights at the spectacular Parador Conde de Gondomar in seaside Baiona (a Fodor favorite, one of the very top Paradors in the whole system, along with León and Cangas, and an incredible bargain off season).
From Baiona you can explore the lower rias, a bit of the Minho on the Portuguese side, or just relax in the park-like surroundings and walk the ramparts. It's truly a stunning place, unforgettable.

Then on to Santiago for 3 nights, stopping in Pontevedra, to explore the city during the Holy Year, the Xacobeo, and to do a day excursion along the Rias Baixas to Noia and Muros.
A total of 9 nights in Castilla-León & Galicia.

(The "high road" alternative would be to skip Baiona and Orense and from Salamanca straight to León for 2 nights at the Parador de San Marcos, another splendid piece of history, then León to Santiago with stops in Astorga for Gaudí architecture, the picturesque Maragatería village of Castrillo de los Polvazares, O Cebreiro and its celtic "pallozas" or stone huts, and the Templar castle at Ponferrada, a long day's drive. But you'd have 2 more nights to add to other destinations).

From Santiago, I'd head to Asturias through spectacular Taramundi in Os Oscos, with a 2 night stay NOT at the Palacete Peñalba but instead at another Casona Asturiana, the Villa Argentina in Luarca to explore the western side of Asturias. The Luarca area is much prettier than Ribadeo-Figueras. Truly.

Then I'd move to the eastern side, using Llanes or Ribasella as a 3 night base at a Casona Asturiana, either La Arquera, La Posada de Babel or Casa de Paloma Castillo in the Duquesa or Azul suite with sitting areas overlooking the beach, just wonderfully relaxing and cozy.

You can stop in Oviedo on route from Luarca to Llanes.

From Llanes you can explore some of Picos de Europa. If you prefer mountains to the coast, you could spend those 3 nights inland, at the wonderful Parador de Villanueva, outside Cangas de Onís. Depends on whether you want a coastal village or a retreat surrounded by the majestic Picos de Europa.
A total of 5 nights in Asturias.

From Llanes to Bilbao will take you 2 hrs., but you should certainly stop in the Cantabrian medieval village of Santillana del Mar to visit the town and the replica of the paleolithic caves of Altamira.

I'd certainly keep the 2 nights at the López de Haro in Bilbao. Yes, there's PLENTY to see/do in lively and very prosperous Bilbao. It's highly underrated. We spend time there every summer and never tire of wandering the 7 Calles area of the Casco Viejo, touring the market there, the Mercado de la Ribera, visiting the Guggen and the unsung gem, the Museo de Bellas Artes, plus terrific pintxos everywhere and sophisticated shopping.
But I'd add a 3rd night to the beachfront Abba de Londres y de Inglaterra in San Sebastián so that you can take a day trip to the picturesque fishing village of Hondarribia, (incidentally, where the S.S,. airport is actually located).
So 5 nights in Euskadi.

That's 23 nights in Madrid and points north.

Hope this helps.

ranald

Thanks to both Maira & Maribel for your suggestions which I really appreciate. I would like not to have to spend much more than about 4 hours daily driving if possible. We are also keen walkers so while we enjoy visiting cities, we lean more towards the countryside & seaside.

If you have any further suggestions, please let me know.

Thanks, Ranald

Maribel

ranald,
I checked www.viamichelin.com for the driving time between Salamanca and Ourense, your longest drive on the Northern Spain route, and you should be able to do it in under 4 hrs. All the other drives between lodgings in the north are also under 4 hrs.

Since you enjoy countryside and seaside more than cities, then you wouldn't want to use cities as a 3-4 day base, other than Santiago and San Sebastián, which are small enough to be very manageable, loaded with atmosphere, Santiago with its celtic feeling and S.S. basque, and entirely, easily walkable. (Salamanca, Santiago and S.S. , along with Sevilla, are my favorite cities).

The beauty of Asturias and the Basque Country is that you have both mountains and sea within a very easy reach.
And there are great walks to be taken in Picos de Europa around Cangas de Onís.

If you decide you'd rather stay in the countryside within a 40 min. drive from Bilbao rather than Bilbao itself, just let me know, and I'll tell you of our discovery of a wonderful, small and elegant B&B in the "Switzerland" of the Basque County that would be equal in comfort and charm to your other hotel choices.
Have fun planning!

ranald

Thanks again Maribel. Yes, I would like to know of the B & B outside of Bilbao. This sounds like a good alternative to staying in Bilbao.

Ranald

Maribel

ranald,
We discovered this little charmer thanks to a tip from a friend who runs a Basque travel co: "Casa Rural Iruaritz" (meaning "the 3 oaks" in euskera). Although classified as a "casa rural", it's more like a 4 star country house hotel masquerading as an agrotourist home.
It's located in the hamlet of Lezama, near Amurrio, actually in the Alava province, but only 35 km from Bilbao. You can drive into Bilbao or just take the commuter train from Amurrio. It's the C3 into Bilbao's Abando station, leaves every 45 min. or so and the ride takes 38 min.

This little 5 room "casa rural" is one of the finest examples of 15th century farmhouse architecture in the Basque Country. It was restored by the owner, Jesuit priest Luis de Lezama (formerly the king's confessor), a priest-turned-restaurateur, who has built an empire of restaurants/hotels/cafes/culinary schools (Café del Oriente and Taberna del Alabarero in Madrid, plus a branch of the Taberna in D.C., plus Café Iruaritz in S.S.) to support orphanages and to help underprivileged youth. He bought this farmhouse in his birthplace, Lezama, and spared no expense in restoring it, to make it the headquarters of his foundation. He then opened it as a bed and breakfast when it's not in use for annual Fundación Iruaritz meetings. The priest maintains an apartment in the attic but isn't often in residence. The manager, Francisco Hierro, trained as a chef in his culinary school in Sevilla and runs the home, looking after his guests' every need. Francisco is very caring, speaks good English and runs the place as if it were a private home and prepares wonderful meals for his guests. "Our" huge room A has exquisite polished wood floors, exposed wooden beams, a beautiful antique bed, armoire, writing desk, sitting area, mini bar, tea/coffee making facilities and sheep grazing under the window in the late afternoon. Rooms D and E are smaller but equally lovely with gorgeous baths. Plus a chef at your beck and call. Francisco and his staff are very sweet and so eager for guests to enjoy their stay. Downstairs there's a leather bound photo album showing the various stages of the reconstruction of the home, painstakingly done, also a leather agenda where the priest has written all the expenses incurred, plus more silver, more antiques and 2 parlors with fireplace in each where you can curl up and read or watch TV or have cognac after dinner. Mid-week in late July we were the only guests. In the fall and spring the house is used as a corporate retreat for Bilbao execs during the week and usually full.
To see 8 pictures of the house, go to www.nekatur.net , and write in "Iruaritz" in the search box (this site doesn't work well on a mac). The 4th picture shown is room A. You can also see the Iruaritz at www.grupolezama.com under Hotels
email: [email protected]

We've stayed in several B&B properties around Bilbao, in surfers' Mundaka, historic Gernika, Artziniega and the wealthy suburb of Getxo, and "Iruaritz" is by far the most elegant one we've found and in the prettiest rural location.

ranald

Thanks once again Maribel. You are so knowledgeable & generous. I have checked out 'Casa rural Iruaritz' as you suggested & it looks & sounds wonderful.

Kind regards
Ranald

epharma

These posts have been helpful. I will be visiting my wife's family in Oviedo next month (Nov 2003). We are flying from Gatwick GBR to Bilbao---and we'll check out the Guggenheim (a long time wish of mine)---but then we'll have 5 full days in Oviedo. We have 2 children--11 and 9--so I am looking for things that might interest them, like day trips (my wife's great aunt/uncle are in their 90's--so I don't think they'll have too much info about fun for kids). Personally, I enjoy the shore--so if you have any suggestions regarding trips to the shore from Oviedo, that would be great. My kids have been to Spain--but only from Madrid, South(with 5 days in Sevilla in 2000 for their uncle's wedding). Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated.

Maribel

epharma,
I'm not able to travel to Asturias in Nov., only in the summer, so don't know how quiet these towns will be then. Maria has traveled recently to the Cantabrian seacoast in Nov., so she would know much better than I what they're like off season. (but she leaves for Spain very soon and may not see this post).

But in summer lots of families enjoy the Asturian villages of Llanes, Ribadesella and Puerto de Vega to the east and Luarca to the west. I've meet several American families in Ribadesella
who summer there so that their children can spend time with their Spanish grandparents.

You can see pictures here:
http://www.vivirasturias.com/asturia...uerto-de-vega/

cova

Hi epharma,
places like Ribadesella, Luarca or Llanes are not so small, and you will find it quite interesting. Ribadesella and Llanes are increasingly popular as second residence for many people from Bilbao, since the motorway was finished.
I think that January or February can be more dead months than November.
Not in the shore, but there is a good Mine Museum in El Entrego
http://www.mumi.es/
The kids could enjoy walking in the mine reproduction (and you are guided by a former miner ...)

Also, be aware that the weather is being really spotty during these days. We have moved from summer to winter, with lots of rain and wind. But you should already know this ...

Rgds,
Cova