TTT

What happened to the rest of your report. It seems to be missing as you enter Tuscany

Wow, I had forgotten about this. I actually still have our extensive notes, and my memory of this trip is good, so maybe I'll throw out another day (I'll have to check if the restaurants and hotels still get decent reviews). This was the first Fearless Foursome trip. Mary has some notes, too, which is good. Heck, it was only 17 years ago

Damn, we were young.

Isn't it wild to think what seems so recent was 17 years, Tom?! Thanks for posting this. I'm going to make it my Sunday reading. Your TRs are such fun yet thorough---please compile them into a book. It would be a best seller.

PS--I posted our first trip to Paris-can't believe we had the stamina! Paris 1997-Only read for history.

Such a cute pic. Thanks to whoever topped this report... bookmarking for later.

Ok ciaociao, Now look what you've done You got me motivated... on a Saturday no less!

Day 9 – Did I Run Over That Nun, Charming Chianti Countryside, Time To Greve, Mona Lisa’s Home Winery, Afternoon On The Campo, You’ll Walk Those 500+ Stairs In 2005, Hotel Fantastico and “Don’t Worry We’re Not Going To Kill You!”

We awoke early and bid “arrivederci” to the lovely Pensione Accademia. This was a really great place to stay for our first visit to Venice. It was quiet and it led to us being Dorsoduro fans (we stayed at Pensione La Calcina (now Hotel Calcina) on the Zattere in 2005 and 2008).

A water taxi got us to the train station, and by 11 a.m., we were back in Firenze. Mary wrote, "We down our caf� and cookies and watch the small towns zip past on our way back to Florence." The four of us walked five or six blocks, luggage in hand, to the car rental agency and we nearly made a clean exit out of town. I’m sure those three nuns have gotten over their near-death experience at the hands of a novice Florence driver.

Oh, and Mary's notes show I also took us on a slight detour to the Piazza Michelangelo before finding the correct route. These driving errors foreshadowed our more problematic ones four years later.

For the first time in our life we were on the SS222 (dubbed the Karen Valentine Highway in 2005). Getting on the road (now called regional road 222 Chiantigiana) at Grassina, we headed through Chianti on our way to our base in Siena.

Passing through the hillsides we spied a cypress-lined driveway to the Castello di Verrazzono, where we hoped we might taste a little Chianti Classico. Alas, the scenery was gorgeous, but the winery had no tours or tastings. Onward we went.

Our next stop was the town of Greve (which we would discover more of in 2005). Lunch was at a little restaurant that no longer exists, which is too bad because I did love my spaghetti with pomodoro and basilico. The melon with proscuitto tasted like candy. The melons in Italy are out of this world.

After a hearty lunch, it was on to see the Mona Lisa, or at least the place she was supposedly born, Villa Vignamaggio. It has been producing wine since 1170, two years before Kim and I were born. We strolled around the incredibly beautiful grounds, tasted a little vino and I bought a Riserva 1997.

Since our visit, it has been determined that the story about Mona Lisa was a myth. Lisa Gherardini was actually born in Florence in June of 1479. Oh well!

The scenic drive to Siena made us fall in love with this area. We would return in 2005 and stay at an unbelievable agriturismo along the 222.

Following the signs to Porta San Marco/Duomo as we entered Siena, we found our hotel, Palazzo Ravizza, located just inside the wall. To this day, Palazzo Ravizza remains one of our favorite hotels we have ever stayed in Europe. It still garners rave reviews.

Palazzo Ravizza was (and I assume still is) a lovely old hotel which includes a gorgeous garden overlooking the Tuscan countryside. Inside it has a library, a bar, a sitting room (where I would receive a martini lesson the following day) with coved ceilings painted yellow with a stenciling of olives.

To avoid the crowds, we took a late afternoon walkabout. Our walk toward the Duomo was quite hilly. Inside the Duomo, an excavation was taking place of a newly found room located beneath the floor. The interior of the Duomo was stunning.

We headed for the Piazza del Campo, where the Palio di Siena takes place twice each summer. Dirt is laid around the shell-shaped Campo, and jockeys ride bareback around the Campo. I have a friend who went to it and said about the event, “It's crazy, but fun.”

Kim, Mary and Tracy all window-shopped, while I shielded my eyes from the shops. We sampled some insanely good Sienese almond cookies, too. We did purchase some of those.

I attempted to get the crew to climb the 500 steps to the top of the Torre del Mangia. The cumulative “look,” meant “this ain’t gonna happen.” It wouldn't be until four years later that I would finally scale the third largest tower in Italy.

What’s the next best thing to tower-climbing? Martinis in the Palazzo Ravizza garden, of course. We retired to our room for a little nap (I guess I was not the evil task-master that I am now in my early days) and freshen up for dinner.

Dinner was included in the hotel price (half-board, which I hadn't even known I'd done when I booked), and we had two fantastic meals here. We stepped down a few stairs and entered a small, glassed-room adjoining the hotel and overlooking the garden. This room had a really intimate feel to it with beamed ceilings and brick floors. Sadly, the hotel no longer serves dinners, but does still include breakfast.

We were seated at a table overlooking the garden. Sitting kitty corner to us was a couple who were dressed impeccably (unlike the unkempt table of misfits next to them ... actually, for us, we were pretty well-dressed), and if you travel with Mary, odds are fairly high we’ll get to know some of the other diners.

Mary said “hello” to them, and they introduced themselves with an unusual ending to their introduction. “We’re originally from Iran. Don’t worry, we’re not going to kill you.” A long conversation ensued, and there was no bloodshed. They told us how they fled Iran when the Shah of Iran was overthrown during the revolution of 1979. It was a very interesting evening that lasted well into the night. Yes, lots of wine was consumed. We dined next to them the following evening. Meeting interesting people while traveling is a great part of the overall experience.

After bidding our new friends farewell, we all stepped out into the garden on a spectacular Tuscan evening, each of us with a glass of on-the-house Limoncello in hand, except Tracy, who was in the mood for a little champagne. La Dolce Vita indeed!

Next: Day 10 - Medieval Manhattan Of The Middle Ages, No Almonds In This Rocca, Gotta Try That Bathroom, Fantastic Fields, Picnic By The Prison, Roamin’ Roman Ruins, The First Official “Tomtini” and Our Last Limoncello (at least for a couple of days).

Even though it is old you have hooked me too. We are returning to Tuscany this September so I am curious what you have to say about it. Always love your trip reports.

Hey Maitai! I have a question for you. I remember your trip very well because I was in most of the same places at the same time. We kept missing each other by a day or so......I'm pretty sure MY trip was in 2000. Should we both check our dates?? I always enjoy your TRs to everywhere, except the medical ones!

Dayle, Ours was definitely 2001. Later that year (after 9/11) we got a $475 RT to Paris for Christmas. Yes, I am trying my hardest not to have another Hospital Trip Report.

Sberg, Kim, Mary, Tracy and I return to Italy this autumn (our first trip with them since the infamous 2005 trip). No Tuscany this time. Milan, Bologna, Ravenna, Padua, PIemente Wine Country, Torino and Orta San Giulio.

Too bad we won't be in the same place at the same time. We went to England and Scotland shortly after you did. We followed in some of your footsteps. I only wish I could write as well as you do! Have a great time in Italy. Can't wait to read your report. We can't wait to go back this fall. We love Val D'Orcia and we are looking forward to seeing it again.

What a wonderful TR, Tom. I actually had read the 2013 reboot. Thank goodness for a poor memory as it is all new this time and I have more to say these days:

Had to laugh about your luggage seeing more countries than you had.

“Take the ticket and go away.”

Your u-turn made you an honorary Italian!

Your Florence dinner with the natives sounded spectacular. And, OMG, you mentioned the biscotti for dipping. DH and I were given small crackers and they were so good. We were always searching (fruitlessly) for them.

We liked the Bargello way more than the Uffizi—not sure if the layout was the problem.

The look!

Sighs matters….

Loved the Iranian intro.

You're the best, maitaitom!

Tom, I guess my memory is wrong on the point of us being there the same time then! Anyway, this is still one of my all time favorite TRs! Every time I rent a car in Europe, I remember to double check the fuel and I think of your trip when I do it!

I'm thinking of this report as a TV show that didn't make the Fall lineup, and is finally here as a summer replacement series.

Day 10 - Medieval Manhattan Of The Middle Ages, No Almonds In This Rocca, Gotta Try That Bathroom, Fantastic Fields, Picnic By The Prison, Roamin’ Roman Ruins, The First Official “Tomtini” and Our Last Limoncello (at least for a couple of days).

Looking at Tracy’s notes I couldn’t believe my eyes when I read that I let Tracy sleep in (those days are over, baby!). In any event, Kim, Mary and I ate breakfast in the beautiful dining area. Sleeping beauty arrived about a half hour later and at about 10 a.m. (wow, was I lenient in those days) we were off to our first stop on a sunny, blue-sky day.

About a 45 minute drive from Siena was San Gimignano (and still is), the “Manhattan of Toscana.” Although most medieval towns built large towers for defense, the towers of San Gimignano (hence “Manhattan”) were constructed by the town’s patrician families to show how much richer they were than others. Surprisingly, there was no Trump Tower. Of the original 72 towers, only 14 survive today.

We headed to the Rocca di Montestaffoli. Built in 1533 by the Florentine to help the town fend off attacks by Siena, this was once a castle and then a convent. There were panoramic views. Back down, we strolled through the increasingly crowded streets. After either Mary or Tracy bought a silver bowl (hey the notes are 17 years old), we decided to pick up some picnic supplies (salami, pecorino, cookies, fruit, delectable Sienese cookies, bread and, of course, wine) that we would partake of at our next destination, Volterra.

Tracy wrote about those Sienese cookies ... “soft centers and crunchy on the outside, and dusted with powdered sugar.” Yeah, they were good.

Before heading out, Mary took a slight bathroom break at a high-end portable unit, and as she opened the door to get out, the room suddenly became a shower. It was the first time we had seen one of these. We all said we'd take our umbrellas the next time we have to go to the bathroom.

Volterra is located about 45 minutes from San Gimagnano, and it is pretty along the way. Fields of wheat, mustard poppies, olive trees and vineyards made this quite a scenic drive. Parking downstairs in Volterra, we climbed up to the Parco Archeologico, a grassy space with trees and hedge-lined paths. It’s also located next to a prison.


We plopped down on the grass looking at the Fortezza Medicea, a 13th century fortress that is now a high security prison filled with various types of criminals, and even murderers. It was a gorgeous day, so we didn’t want to contemplate that an “Italian O.J.” might escape (however, in preparation for our picnic, we did only pack plastic knives).

2018 Update: "The prison now occasionally serves dinners to the public. “The novel dining experience requires guests to complete background checks, go through metal detectors, forfeit their phones and even eat with plastic utensils. That’s because the meals are prepared and served by the prison’s inmates, many of whom have been incarcerated for violent crimes and drug trafficking. The exclusive dinners inside the jail’s church are served just eight times per year and act as an opportunity for the prisoners to be rehabilitated through cooking. Inmates work alongside a professional chef to learn the basics of the kitchen.”
’d love to Yelp a review, “The food was good dinner, and overall it was an arresting experience. This was literally an off the cuff meal.”

After the relaxing picnic (not a criminal to be found), we took a walk through town along the cobble-stoned street filled with Alabaster shops. Fortunately for our pocket books, nothing of interest to buy was found.



We came to a spot overlooking an old Roman Theater, so old that it was built before Sophia Loren was a star or even before Nero began his fiery fiddling career. The Roman theater and baths were constructed in the first century BC, and we thought about the climbing down to see them. Remembering the old paraphrased adage (probably from about the same time period), “What comes down, must climb up. we figured the views from the top were enough (these photos from the pre-digital age leave a lot to be desired).

We arrived back at Palazzo Ravizza about 4 p.m. (or 16:00 for you Europeans playing at home). Tracy and Kim went upstairs for a nap (hopefully not together), while Mary and I strolled about in the garden and watched as an ensuing storm begin to form. Knowing it was heading for us, we headed to the bar.

Soon Kim and Tracy appeared (they were both smiling, which now really makes me suspicious). Not to worry however, because I had been served the best martini (gin) I had ever consumed. As I finished that martini, my drinking life would soon take a turn for the better.

A young guy plopped down in the chair next to me and said, “You look like a guy who likes martini.” Now it didn't take Columbo to figure that out (especially since the martini was still in front of me), but I replied politely, “Yes, I do.”

He quickly retorted, “Then I am going to change your life.” It turns out he was a young lawyer from New York City, and he said, “This drink is currently the rage in NYC. I’ll buy you one.” Never one to turn down a gift martini in the mouth, I accepted his generous offer.

He told the bartender the directions to concoct a simple drink consisting of ice, lemon vodka, a splash of Cointreau and a slice of orange ... up like a martini (shaken, not stirred). The martini wasn't the only thing shaken .... Wow! Kim quickly dubbed this new drink, “The Tomtini!”

And for people who don’t think a martini can include vodka, there now is no problem with the semantics because this drink is officially a “Tomtini,” at least in a few households we know.

Sufficiently lubricated for the evening, we departed to the dining room for yet another fantastico dinner. I’m sorry to see dinner not served here anymore. We toasted our hotel with another complimentary Limoncello. It would be the first of two hotel restaurants that turned out to be quite good on this trip.

Bedtime approached, and we needed our sleep. Tomorrow we’d leave early (about time, the evil taskmaster is back!), visit a Montalcino fortress where we’d also taste wine and end up in the middle of a wedding, get caught up in a sports car rally, became Pecorino addicts in Pienza, sip wine and have a picnic on a merry-go-round in Montepulciano before arriving at our Orvieto hotel located in a 12th-century abbey (where we’d join in yet another nuptial). Wow!

Next: Day 10 - It’s A Fortress AND An Enoteca, Walking The Parapet, Brunello Baby, I Do, The Drive Where We Rally, I’ll Stay Open For You, Perfect Pecorino, Picnic On The Playground, Cave-Dwellers, Abbey Normal, I Do (Part Two), Everything’s Going Swimmingly and No Chestnuts But There Is An Open Fire

As usual, great report. I empathize with Trace as I like to sleep late... no breakfast until the last gong. Also, I've made Tomtinis. Delicious and dangerous!

Arresting experience dinner LOLs! Looking forward to Montepulciano. I took this shot from said town (computer removed utility lines):

Gorgeous shot TDudette!!!

Hoping for another instalment, enjoying this new/old report.

The summertime lineup is great. Enjoying the read. We head to Italy next spring and
Tuscany is on the agenda.

Thanks, Tom. I owe it all to Bella Italia.

Day 10 - It’s A Fortress AND An Enoteca, Walking The Parapet, Brunello Baby, I Do, The Drive Where We Rally, I’ll Stay Open For You, Perfect Pecorino, Picnic On The Playground, Cave-Dwellers, Abbey Normal, I Do (Part Two), Everything’s Going Swimmingly, I Think My Hair Is On Fire and No Chestnuts But There Is An Open Fire

Ah, my four favorite words ... We were up early! Finally, the Tuscan Tom I know and, well, have had to live with every day of my life was back.

After a quick breakfast at Palazzo Ravizza, we bid farewell to Siena, and, heading south, in a little less than hour we were parking our car in Montalcino.

The medieval village of Montalcino looks pretty much the same as it did in the 16th century (I was told that, I didn’t visit then since there were no airplanes). It’s a lovely town with cobblestone pavements, but we weren’t here to soak up its medieval charm. Even though it was 10 a.m., we had one thing on our mind ... the “Ferarri of Wines” ... Brunello. And there was only one place we wanted to taste it.

The Enoteca La Fortezza Di Montalcino is not your ordinary tasting room. This baby was built in the 14th century, and two centuries later it was “the last bastion of the resistance of the Sienese Republic against the Medicean conquest,” which I assumed had something to do with that darned Medici family.



We needed to acquire a thirst, so first we scaled the stairs to the top of the fortezza (it was 5,000 liras in those days), and walked around taking in the stunning views of the town and surrounding countryside. Then it was back downstairs to join in a little (and expensive) tasting of this wine. We did the cheapest tasting (in 2018 that would be two Brunellos and one Rosso for €15.50. Deciding we enjoyed the 1995 better than the 1996, we bought two bottles, meaning our wallets were much lighter.

Digression: Speaking of money, we loved the lira. We didn’t even feel like we were spending real money. However, on one occasion I nearly made a huge mistake. I owed 10,000 lira at a toll booth, and gave the man my toll. I started to drive away, but heard the guy yelling at me (not the first time this had happened ... see drive into Florence). I stopped, he shook his head and said, “You must be careful.” He handed me back the 100,000 lira bill I had mistakenly handed to him. Lesson learned!

Stepping outside after our tasting we found ourselves smack-dab in the middle of a wedding reception, unless they were drinking champagne before the wedding.

Digression: In 2005, we would return to Montalcino to see the picturesque Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo, constructed in the 12th century. I highly recommend visiting there if you’re in the vicinity (you can check it out on my website ... shameless plug ... travelswithmaitaitom.com “Italy 2005.”)

Deciding we had imbibed enough, it was off to our next location, where Pecorino is king. Along our route to the Pecorino Capital of Tuscany (aka Pienza), headed in the opposite direction were a line of 50 - 75 very cool looking sports cars. From Alfa Romeos to Ferraris to Porsches, these cars were things of beauty. Reading up on it afterward (much afterward), I believe we were in the middle of the Mille Mignia, “Italy’s Vintage Auto Race,” which is now a rally.

In Pienza, we parked at the edge of town, and spent a good deal of time just strolling around this charming village with a Duomo that looked like it could slide down the hill at any moment. We stepped inside, and fortunately got out in time. I hope it’s still there.

We next visited the Palazzo Piccolomini Garden, which afforded us some spectacular views of the countryside. But enough of history and sweeping landscapes, we needed to find some cheese ... Pecorino to be exact. Once again, my life would be changed forever.

We stopped at a little cheese shop where the woman was closing for the lunch hour. “Darn,” Mary said, “we were hoping to buy some pecorino for a picnic.” Well, the woman got a big smile on her face, opened the door and said, “Come on in.” I love Italy!

Our friendly hostess not only let us taste a few variations of my now most-beloved cheese, but she also offered us some complimentary wine to help wash it down. The place was called Sapori Di Pienza, and it looks like it is still around, only at a larger location called Antichi Sapori Di Pienza ( Ancient Flavors of Pienza). I hope our friend is still there, because she was a sweetheart (there she is below with Mary).



We bought some well-aged Pecorino, hot peppers, bread, wine and some olive oil, bid the lovely lady “arrivederci,” and we were on our way to a picnic in nearby Montepulciano, a hill town that takes “hill” to the next level. We parked at the base of a hill heading up to town, and went in search of a picnic spot. We walked upward ... and upward ... and upward some more until we found a local, and we (desperately) asked, “Is there a place to picnic around here?” Fortunately he spoke English and gave us directions.

We continued our upward trek until we found the picnic area ... located right next to a PARKING LOT. Oh well, we needed the exercise. It wasn’t a large area, so we sat where we could. Mary and Tracy found a bench, while Kim dined sitting at a kids’ merry-go-round.

Afterward we headed into town and found a wine cave, where we purchased a wine of the region, Nobile di Montepulciano. We had no money left, but our wine collection was at least growing.

Digression: Sadly in 2001, the internet had a dearth of travel sites. I remember making all of our hotel reservations by fax or phone. That lack of information also meant errors of omission in planning. While driving, we stopped and took a photo of the gorgeous Church of the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Biagio (below) in the countryside below the city walls of Montepulciano. I didn’t know about it before we left and have no idea, except for the fact I was ignorant about it, why we didn’t go down to explore it. Oh well, just another reason to return to Tuscany (like I need an excuse).



On the road again, we were on the way to our home on the outskirts of Orvieto, Hotel La Badia di Orvieto. An abbey had occupied this site since the sixth century, and the existing building dates from the 12th century. We arrived at precisely 4:15 (or at least that’s what Tracy’s notes say).

Getting out, we could see the hill town of Orvieto from the parking area. The hotel dubs itself an “Island of Stone in a Sea of Green,” (photo is the La Badia postcard I bought)because the countryside where it is located is full of lush greenery and trees. It was still quite warm, so we changed into our summer wear and walked toward the pool area. Before we could reach the pool, however, guess where we found ourselves? Yep, we were right in the middle of yet another wedding. We later found the beautiful, little chapel where the nuptials took place. It’s located on the premises.



After lounging around the pool for a while (with Negroni cocktails from the hotel bar), we ran into some American art students, who recommended the hotel’s restaurant for dinner. They’d never lied to us before, so we decided to try it out.

We all showered and got ready for dinner. Usually just a mundane task, Mary’s hair drying experience was unique. For some unknown reason (could have been that we were still travel novices back then), Mary decided that if the plug to her hair dryer fit into the outlet she did not need to use an adaptor, but when she turned on the dryer, not only did it singe her hair (right in the front), but it also fried the hair dryer. We heard her screams from down the hall. Speaking of outlets, the only outlet in our bathroom was in the bathtub! Yep, no safety issue there.

The students were right ... the restaurant at La Badia was fantastic. Walking in there is a room with an open fire (we kept Mary’s hair at a safe distance), and we dined in the adjacent dining room.

Dinner was divine. Dishes ranged from a mozzarella, tomato and corn salad to cheese and spinach crepes to entrees of pork, veal and chicken. We had gone in the other room for a moment to watch the chef put a grate over the coals and wood, and he proceeded to cook the meats in the open fireplace. Mary wrote that her pork dish (the house specialty) was “the juiciest and most succulent pork I have ever had.”

During our dinner a fireworks display started going off, and Tracy dashed outdoors to take a glance. During that interlude, I stole part of her veal dish. We washed down dinner with a couple of bottles of Orvieto Classico vino (of course, we did).

Dessert included biscotti dipped in Vin Santo, a dessert wine that agreed with me. We liked the restaurant so much that we reserved for the following night, requesting at a table in the room with the open fireplace.

We hit the sack by 10:30. Tomorrow I had planned to give the troops a day off for a relaxing poolside day. Of course, plans are made to be broken!

Day 11 - Thank You Clouds, Fun Funicular, Todi Fields, The Most Livable City In The World, What ... Another Wedding, The Town Where Everything Is Uphill, San Francesco Open Your Golden Vaults, Hot Time In The Old Church Today, Dem Bones And Getting Sauced Without Alcohol