My parents & I just returned from a week in Van & Vic and since I found so much helpful tips on this BB, I thought I'd share some highlights (and lowlights) with everyone.

We didn't rent a car so everything was cab/bus/foot! There were times when a car would have been very handy but we weren't really prepared to dish out those high rates (much higher than in Winnipeg) without planning the day enough to make it worthwhile.

Not a drop of rain - just sun, sun, sun, and some days a bit much heat!! But, we just lathered on the sunblock and headed out.


Highlights

1. Stanley Park - what a great place! Our hotel (Best Western on Drake) had a free shuttle so it dropped us at the entrance - well, not quite that close actually. We took the free Park shuttle around the park (I prefer this to the paid horse-drawn tours b/c I like doing as much in a day as possible and the horses were slower!!). The driver stopped at several points, in addition to the designated bus stops, for photo opps, and did the tour guide things, which was nice. He did however, misdirect us to the aquarium so we did a bit of walking in circles there.

2. Vancouver Aquarium - a great place, well worth the price. We unfortunately forgot to use our coupon which we got here http://www.findfamilyfun.com/index.html, but it was still worth it! The shows - dolphin and beluga - were really well done. I didn't stop for the various feedings as I've seen them elsewhere. I was a bit late for the diving show to watch from underwater, which would have been outstanding, so make sure you go early and claim a good spot before the once a day, 11 AM show!

We also did the salmon tour but that was a waste of time, at least with the volunteer who did it, who seemed a bit patronizing with all the questions rather than just giving answers (we were all adults), and it was taking much longer than scheduled time, and we didn't see any fish! So, if you're going to take that tour, I'd say go with one of the crew.

3. English Bay Beach - a serendipitous finding on our second to last day in Vancouver - it was minutes from the hotel (by car anyway), and although certainly not a beautiful beach, it's neat that there, in teh midst of the city, you can walk in the ocean! We returned early in the AM our last day for a proper 'dip' before it got crowded. There's a nice beach wall walk that goes all along the 'coast', around stanley park, and I guess around the city, really (almost).

4. Ferry to Victoria - we took the odd hour ferries (larger ones as recommended here) to and from Victoria. B/c we didn't really know where we were going etc... we took Pacific Coachlines VIctoria excursion tour which basically buses you from your hotel to the ferry and from the ferry to the bus depot in Victoria. YOu can return whenever you wish, but only 3 buses back to Vancouver will drop you at the hotel (4, 5 & 6 pm). Great weather and great views of the gorgeous scenery. Too bad we didn't see any whales though!

5. Beacon Hill Park in Victoria - if you like orienteering, apparently, you can try your hand at it here - there's a club or something. Anyway, we walked from our hotel (BW Inner Harbor) to the park, all the way to the 'beach' part, from which you can see Port Angeles in the US. This is not a sandy beach - mostly rock, and much climbing to do! But it was a great day for it, and if you have dogs, they will love this place. Most people we passed brought their pooches out. This area does have that fresh smell though!!

6. Inner harbor - definitely tourist-central! Lots of activity going on there and a nice place to walk but you can't really spend a whole day doing that. Nice walkways all around the harbor; neat to see allthe tour boats and ferries. You can feed the geese and ducks there.

Lowlights

1. Not having a car and/or not fully planning the days so too much time was wasted trying to figure out where to go and how. Unless you want to see a lot of shops and stores, you need a car to get out of downtown Vancouver.

2. Trying to learn the bus or get a schedule in Vancouver - you have to BUY schedules there, and no one can give proper advice on which bus to take!! The drivers were friendlier and more helpful in Victoria than in Vancouver.

Accomodations & eating

1. Stayed at Best Western on Drake in Van and Inner harbor in Victoria
- Drake was heaps better than Victoria, but still overpriced (I know, it's Vancouver, and downtown... so you pay for location rather than comfort)
- BW Drake had a free shuttle which takes you somewhere but you find your own way back. Not always great timing b/c they service several hotels, but better than paying bus or cabfare - BTW, cabs are pretty pricey and it's amazing how the same trip can cost different amounts on different days!

- complimentary breakfast is helpful too, although one can only have pastries so many mornings! Some better fruit options would be nice.

2. BW Inner Harbor - I was really disappointed b/c it wasn't much better than a motel. The room wasn't particularly clean, it was dark and the kitchen seemed rather aged. I'm also not a fan of low flow showerheads so it took forever and a day to wash my hair (better in drake). The staff were friendly enough, but I wouldn't stay here again.

3. In Victoria,
- Milestones (just under the tourist office) - really good and highly recommended. Friendly, efficient service, and sufficient amount for the price.
- CopperJohn's Cafe - I recommend against it - we had supper there - very slow service; took forever for someone to take our order, and even longer for the food to arrive. I had a veggie burger which was cold and falling apart. The soup (broc & cheder) was very salty too. Others were sitting for quite a while waiting for their food too.

- Kipling's - in the Empress - had Sunday dinner buffet there. IT was very quiet. The food wasn't as hot as it should have been, but still a nice variety and worth the price, I think, particuarly if you like seafood (I don't!). Nice curried dishes there too. Though tea & coffee are included, other drink is additional, and their sodas are expensive! Friendly staff.

- The bakeries in James Bay (a short bus ride out of downtown Victoria) had some delicious goodies - we bought some from Fairway market there and they were really yummy.

I've read positive reviews re: tea at the Blethering Place there, and even suggestions to take it there vs. empress, but we didn't try any, as we wanted a real meal at the time! I didn't think the decor of the Blethering Place was anything to write home about, but perhaps the food is better.

- Pacific Buffet on the Ferry - really good food; hot and a good variety. I enjoyed it more than Kiplings and it was much cheaper! More people went to the cafeteria to eat, but I think this was a better deal for supper if you're hungry enough.

- Views in Vancouver - revolving rest. atop the Renaissance hotel - nice enough view (for at least half the trip!) of mountains, see Lions Gate bridge and Grouse Mtn. The food was good but quite pricey for the amount (typical of classy restaurants). I had the one chicken dish and got more food than the others with their salmon and veal meals. My meal was delicious, as was the bread basket! Dessert is something to avoid here - aside from being very expensive, it wasn't very good. My cheesecake was soft and had no special taste as described in the menu. The others weren't thrilled with their desserts either, didn't match teh menu description.

- Milestones in Vancouver airport - tried the veggie burger which had to be reheated. The salad was good, as were the other dishes we tried.

Observations & Tips

1. Victoria & Vancouver are definitely dog friendly cities - there are 'public' drinking fountains just for them! Most people seemed to be good about following the leash and picking up after your dog rules too. And unlike here at home, the dogs didn't come up to us and try to lick us without an invite.

2. Victoria restaurants are smoke-free, which was really nice. So was the one restaurant we ate at in Vancouver.

3. Victoria does, as someone posted here a while ago, smell a bit though - can't tell if it's all the horse deposits or as he said, the waste they dump in the water.

4. Having a car or someone to take you to some places would make these trips even better, esp in Victoria. Although it is easy to walk from inner harbor to downtown (literally right there), to go further to see things, you need either bus or car. For bus, you need to plan things properly - you can buy day passes which are worth it if you'll go enough places in that day.

While you won't want to drive in downtown Vancouver, if you went there to see things other than stores (as we did), you'll want to have some vehicle to take you out the capilano, grouse, or further to whistler etc...

5. Victoria, esp, is very US friendly - makes sense I guess, but the merchandise etc... seemed more targeted to US visitors than us Canadians. Lots of Canadian things (e.g. lots of Anne of Green Gables even though she represents PEI on the East coast!!).

6. The inner harbor and quaint village part of downtown Victoria provides a nice place to walk around and do a bit of shopping. On our last day there we came across the British Candy Shoppe on Yates; bought some dolly mix, but found the other prices were a bit high (cheaper than flying to the UK to get some though!) and their postcards were cheap.

I've yammered on quite a bit now so I'll stop. If you have any questions I"ll be happy to answer them. thanks to everyone for their tips as I planned my trip.

Ruth-Ann

Forgot to mention that if you wish to take back some salmon (or other fish) or ship it somewhere, the fish shops on Granville Island in Vancouver will do that for you. The BW manager gave us some good advice re: getting salmon and my parents brought back both smoked and candied coho salmon from the Fish Shop. They let my mom sample it first as she had never tasted it before. It arrived safe and sound and they're enjoying it here!

Sorry, have a slight correction - the restaurant atop the Renaissance in Vancouver is Vistas!

Nice to read your report and see that some of your impressions mirror mine. In Victoria, we went to Copper John's once too, after it changed from the Cheesecake. We weren't impressed either and have never been back. At Kiplings our food was lukewarm as well. That was a few years ago so things haven't changed.

It beats me why some people like the Blethering Place. I think their food is awful.

I'm not sure what you mean by the bakeries in James Bay. The only grocery store is a Thrifty's, not Fairway's.

As for the smell in Victoria, it is probably the horse droppings. In the James Bay / Beacon Hill area there seems to be more than ever that aren't being cleaned up. One day we were at the James Bay outdoor market, with its food stalls and all, and we were nearly gagging. My own horse barn never smelled that bad.

Yet another correction (I do wish we could edit/delete posts!) - The Blethering Place is in OAK BAY not James Bay. James Bay is the residential area with Emily Carr House, and other historic buildings just adjacent to the inner harbor area, and includes Beacon Hill Park.

That's all my corrections! Any more, y'all are welcome to make

We also just returned from three days in Victoria and would like to add our experiences in the event they might be helpful to other travelers.

We flew into Vancouver and rented a car. We took a ferry over to Victoria and were VERY glad we had a reservation. Things went much more smoothly, as a result. (Or so it seemed, anyway.) The ferry ride was beautiful and very much part of the experience of the trip. We were surprised at how long the Vancouver-Victoria trip takes, though. Both ways it took 4 hours (actual ferry time, plus getting to and from the Ferry).

We stayed at the Prior House B&B. Can not say enough wonderful things about this place. It is a former premier's house, built in 1912 with gorgeous gardens, a wonderful innkeepr and her staff, a beautiful afternoon tea and full breakfastin the mornings. We had a lovely room overlooking the garden. Just loved it!!

We ate at Cafe Brio one night and the Marina restaurant the next. We loved Cafe Brio! The Marina was nice, too, but a more traditional restaurant. Had lunch at Barb's Fish and Ships, and Sam's Deli the next. Both great--especially Barb's.

We did all the touristy things: whale watching tour (though we didn't see any whales), toured the Parliament, saw the Royal BC museum, the Castle, the Government House, etc.

Wish we had more time, as there was much more to see and do. We will definitely go back!