ellie

My husband and I celebrated my 50th birthday in Quebec City over the Memorial Day Weekend - had an awfully nice time and definately plan to return one day. Here are some details that I hope may be of help to others planning a trip&gt;<BR>HOTEL: We were unable to book for our dates at our first choices (Saint-Antoine, Le Priori, Dominion), but all three directed us to the Auberge Saint-Pierre located within a block or so of the others in the old port area on the Rue Saint-Pierre. It's a small hotel in old, renovated buildings and worked out well for us. The location is perfect (we were able to walk/ride the funicular to reach the Terasse Dufferin in the upper town in less than 15 minutes), staff extremely friendly and efficient, rooms clean, well appointed and comfortable. We stayed in one of their suites on the street side of the building which featured soaring ceilings and two large windows. The floorplan was a bit funky with sitting, sleeping and bath areas on different levels separated by little flights of steps - fine for us but could be problematic for guests with limited mobility. The room rate included a very nice hot breakfast (several choices on the menu all cooked to order) and a complimentary drink each evening in the bar. Our total cost for three nights including breakfasts and tips was US$640 - we thought it a real bargain. We took a stroll through the lobby of the Chateau Frontenac and were glad to be staying in a smaller place in a cozier part of town. The old port neighborhood is loaded with great restaurants, cute shops and is a quick walk to the river - we would stay there again.<BR>RESTAURANTS: Thanks to David and Elaine who made many great suggestions in reponse to my earlier post - we followed their advice and were not disappointed. David's careful directions to A La Bastille: Chez Bauhaude got us there on a rainy afternoon for a cozy and lingering lunch. Old World ambience - delightful service - delicious food. Elaine's tip regarding Le Mesclun was also dead on - chariming decor, careful, cheerful service and perfectly prepared simple, yet spectacular provencal fare. We walked in on a blustery Saturday night without a reservation and got a table right away.<BR>I wouldnt go running back to L'Echaude. While the sophistocated bistro menu was quite good, the service was disappointing. We arrived on time for our reservation and waited over 20 minutes for our table - I had to beg repeatedly for water refills, etc. They were simply understaffed.<BR>L'Initiale is perfect for a special occasion meal. Impeccable service - course after course of amazing food - lovely decor.<BR>SHOPPING: We found a great restaurant supply house on the Rue Saine-Paul (in the midst of all the antique shops) - came out with a bagful of gadgets for very little $$ - they may only be open on weekdays. Found a little shop near L'Hotel de Ville called Claude Berry (6, cote de la Fabrique) full of very nice French imports: tapestries, china, amazing array of nativity sets, etc. We bought very nice soft moccassins and shearling slippers in the shops at the foot of the funicular.<BR>SIGHTSEEING: We enjoyed a leisurely walk UP the Promenade des Governeurs on a sunny, not too hot morning and walked up and down pretty much every street in both the upper and lower old towns - stopping at every little park and square to sit and people watch. The Ursuline Museum is fascinating - very good look at the historical/religious connection in the city.<BR>We loved Quebec City - enjoy!

Tom

Thank you Ellie. Wonderful. Please tell me more about L'Initiale. What did you both have? Details please. How was service? How much if I may ask? I am thinking about surprising my wife with a trip to Quebec for her 53rd birthday and after reding many posts here it seems that L'Initiale would be a perfect place. She always wanted to visit Quebec, Ottawa and Montreal. However, I think I will try for Dominion hotel.

ellie

Hi Tommy - I dont usually keep really accurate records of what we spend on trips, but I found myself doing so in Quebec because we couldnt believe how inexpensive everything seemed. L'Initiale was great - we spent US $185 which included two cocktails, a very nice bottle of St. Emillion and the tip. The meal started with a house pre-appetizer (duck liver pate and some mussel thing - neither of which I like, but my husband scarfed down both servings) I next had a very nice pureed vegetable soup and hubby had something with salmon - next course was salads which featured nice crispy, cheesy things....my entree was veal medallions which were tender and well sauced and I think my husband had something involving duck....then came the pre-dessert (never had that before) which were perfect little custards with a crispy rolled up cookie..then came real dessert - mine was apple presented three different ways and I think my husband had an array of chocolate creamy things (you see how technical I am!) all finished off with double espresso (not always great but theirs was very good). Service was perfect - all of these courses paced so that you never felt over-whelmed or rushed...the wine was decanted beautifully. The staff were all very pleasant but extremely unobtrusive. It's a dressier place than the others we visited (my husband had a new suit he was anxious to wear.....!) and is less than a 5 minute walk from the Dominion. Perfect choice for a special occasion. We had the concierge at our hotel make the arrangements about 24 hours in advance for a weekend night without difficulty.

elaine

ellie,<BR>...and may you have many happy returns of the day! Delighted you enjoyed your vacation in QC and relieved you enjoyed your dinner at Mesclun. So sorry you had a less than perfect dining experience at L'Echaude. Much can change year to year. It sounds like you had a wonderful trip! ...almost like being in Paris!<BR>Note to Tom: We have stayed at Dominion the past two years and when returning to QC wouldn't think of staying elsewhere. Suggestion: make your hotel reservation; it can be easily cancelled (not easily made). <BR><BR>

Tom

Thanks again. I made my reservation in Dominion

ellie

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