ok finally i have found time to start the actual thing....i hope no one will be disappointed that it is not as detailed as last year but that was a killer and i think fodors was mad...

some background....we are both 61 and travel frequently....karen is a registered nurse in boston and i am a retired banker...we have 2 grown daughters and 5 grandchildren....we live outside boston, ma----USA...

as many of you have experienced, as soon as the plane takes off from bangkok, you are already planning on when you can return...this was the case with us last june 20 when we left bkk for the 6th time in 10 years....added to that i spend time every day on fodors and that makes me want to return even more....the "regulars" are a fabulous source of constant info for us all and for the "newbies" and we can be thankful for that....not a day goes by that i don't jot down one or two things from fodors for future trips and/or research...

so by august, 2004, i knew that we would be able to return....i just did not know via what means as i really wanted to try another airline, especially a foreign one....we have always flown Northwest which suits us fine except for the 6 AM departure from bkk which is annoying (and the midnight arrival in bkk)...also this time my FF mile bank was slim so i would be paying for the flight...
i did a lot of hunting around and the prices were not great...united's $695 deal was gone...eva air's deluxe coach class looked interesting and we would enjoy a couple of days in taipai, but the arrival back in newark at 11:30PM was not attractive...i hooked up with chip cooper through a fodor's posting ([email protected]) and he offered me some very attractive deals especially one on ANA....but i also wanted the 20,000 FF miles from this trip...so back to N/W it was....next problem...their fares hovered around $1450 for May departures for quite a while, and i thought that was too much...then i remembered that on our first bkk trip we used N/W's world vacations arm to book and saved quite a bit...so i contacted them and sure enough i could save about $250 each and have 3 nites hotel and transfers thrown in as well, and added to the 20M miles is an additional 5M miles for using that group (now 2500)...so that sealed the deal....our flight costs from boston to bkk r.t was $1212 inclusive of taxes...i was pleased with this and the 25000 miles on top...so now to the details..

i will warn you that my spelling is BAD..bear with me...

we knew that we needed to be home for a may 14th wedding at cape cod so i scheduled the trip to commence after that....on the 14th as i packed to spend the nite at a cape motel, i threw out my back...i could hardly walk...in fact karen had to assist me and she arranged for a golf cart to take me around at the hotel where the wedding was to be held...lucky me...i popped tons of pills but by wednesday i was still hurting...i would go to bkk on a stretcher if i had to!!!...so on may 18 (a wesnesday) Hedley picked us up about 9AM...the plane was right on time as we flew out at 11:30 to minneapolis and then transferred to the 747 there with our row 63 seats (there are 4 rows of 2 seats at the back of the plane which we like...they have extra room between window seat and window--both sides)..the first leg to minneapolis was about 2-3 hours, and i was met at the gate with a wheel chair---i could get used to this...chair was too small for a big man...karen had a laugh...another was quickly found...the next 11 hours to narita (toyko) was uneventful but long...food was decent...we had brought ham and cheese sandwiches to eat in minneapolis as there is no food on the first leg...this heaping sandwich stayed with us for quite a time....in japan we were also met with a super small chair (for asian people i guess)...the little girl found another and we were off, but she had to really push hard...and we had quite a ways to go, but we got head of line which i really like...northwest has really improved its gates at narita and it is now a nice experience to go there...
the airline which formerly flew only 747's in asia has now added new airbuses on the inter-asia routes...the seating is 2-4-2...the plane was new and quite nice...the bkk flight was 6 hours and 8 minutes which is a killer after the trans-pacific leg...
at bkk we were again met by a wheel chair and the man pushed me right through immigration to a special desk and he did all the paper work...
he took me down in an elevator to baggage collection, and i tipped him, and sent him on his way, and i hobbled around from there...the bags came right out as they always do in bangkok...cheap labor market with plenty of hands...

AAC taxi/limo was waiting for us outside of the customs hall with a sign...a welcome sight....our r.t fare was a discounted 1440 B to the marriott resort and spa (regular fare is now 800B each way---700 to in town hotels)...we always use them on arrival from home and sometimes on other trips ....

we arrived at the marriott in very quick time as the driver drove like a bat out of hell--very safely however...

we were assigned to the very lucky # 666 room in the wing to the right---previously not our favorite wing...we leaned to like it...the main breakfast room was closed for a few weeks for renovation, and they were using the restaurant in the basement of our wing so that made it very easy each morning....we had a standard room with king bed and the fabulous new wooden floors that have been installed throughout the hotel...the room had full river frontage...

we took a quick walk around to slow our bodies down and by 2:30AM, we were in bed...the a/c felt so good...it was raining a bit...the bellman of course remembered us which is always a pleasure....that was friday morning when we hit the bed...

the room had been reserved through www.huahin.20m.com (jamesA's wonderful suggestion)....at the moment they were offering 6 nites for the price of 5 or some other perks for lesser stays (room upgrades)...the price had dropped about 300B per nite about a month before we left home and they kindly agreed to reducing my price...it ended up at 4000 B per nite or about $85 when you average out the 6 nites...a very good deal indeed...this includes the service and taxes and a full buffet breakfast....taxes/service, in thailand hotels, amounts to an additional 17.7% so this is a considerable savings, and breakfast is about 450 B per person...i think that puts my room price at about $65 per nite....not bad for a 4 star hotel...its not a 5 star hotel as some suggest...

we both awoke about 7:30 AM...we felt quite good...i think we took another sleeping pill...we had taken one on the trans pacific leg as well....

at 8 AM we threw on some clothes as we were starved....we took the elevator downstairs and were greeted very nicely by the 2 hostesses who also remembered us from previous trips...they were very impressed with our room number---666....our room number became a joke during future stays each morning as i made them use a crystal ball to guess the new number...we all laughed....in the dining room several of the staff greeted us...mr smiley, a nick name, rushed over to greet us and to pat my large stomach....it is a fascination for asians...buddah like....several staffers stopped by our table each morning to greet us...we got lots of looks from other guests---"who are they???"...karen always orders boiled eggs and they have to come from the kitchen, so this is noticed by others as well....they are willingly brought to youl....
the food is fantastic at the morning buffet...the only thing missing is dim sum...there is something for everyone...the best pastry in the world (marriotts are known for that), eggs of all kinds, asian soups, cheese and meat for the germans and me, fruits, breads, juices, coffee, cereals, salads etc, etc...well worth the price!!! of course to us it was free...

after breakfast we ventured out into the pool area....we were immediately greeted by the manager---"big guy" as we refer to him....there was much smiling and presenting of hand gestures...he remembers us each time and wants to know if we want our usual seats under the flowering tree next to the kiddy pool....no, this year we think karen wants more sun...and i want more shade---an umbrella...he spreads out towels for us and watches the lounges until we return after our showers...

we spent the first morning at the pool until about 2:30, as we had planned to do...we had satay and soup and bottled water for lunch at the pool...$17++...

we returned to the room about 2:30 and put most of our packed things away in drawers and i did some paper work related to the trip....

we went down to the free shuttle boat, which runs all day to and from the hotel and taskim pier (end of the skytrain) every 15 minutes...the boat men greet us with smiles...there is a new pier being built at taskim for the 3 hotels to dock at (penn, oriental and marriott)..ROS has no service....
we decide to take the peninsula boat to their hotel...we walk around and it looks as elegant as ever and in perfect condition---contrary to some fodor reports it has not gotten shabby, nor is the lobby bar claustrophobic or smelling of cigar smoke....afternoon tea is underway and a small combo is playing very pleasing music...we sit for a couple of minutes and listen...as we know that the penn boat leaves on the hour for river city we amble out to their pool and sit for a couple of minutes and are served ice water, and then amble back to their pier to be there on the hour....the staff appologize that we have to wait at all...unbelievable...
at river city shopping center, we head for j.s. thai silk on the first floor, opposite the info counter at the sheraton end of the building....we are greeted as old friends by ms yai and "the boss" and ms penny....karen always likes to look around on arrival to see what is new and different that might peak her interest....primarily they create women's clothing from silk and some other fabrics, but mostly silk...they do do some men's shirts but not much...
she found some heavy black silk for pants and several pieces of fabric for blouses....the pant price is still 2200 B she is told....

THE BAHT IS ABOUT 40 TO THE US DOLLAR... it was about 39.5 when we arrived and about 40.85 when we left a month later..

we have a very pleasant visit with them for about an hour and then move on telling them we will be back in a few days after karen thinks about what she has seen....

by this time we are beginning to get a bit tired....we decide to walk down capt. bush road to new road---past gallery cafe (gpanda's favorite) to have an early dinner at harmonique...formerly our favorite thai restaurant in bkk....it is located just next to the general post office on new road on soi 34....soi 34 has a huge colorful arch over it so you can not miss it....the restaurant is down the soi about 150 feet on the right...

we are the only customers there that early....the dotting old folks who own the place greet us and seat us in one of the a/c rooms ....the crazy one seems to be on her medecine so is not flitting around as in the past and taking your order 3 or 4 times....

our dinner was: shrimp spring rolls steamed, mushroom caps stuffed with crab meat, chicken and cashews (our signature tasting dish at all thai restaurants), lemon chicken, fried morning glories, asparagus with chinese mushrooms, 2 beers, and one large h20....delicious.... 815B...too much food really....about $20.50....

karen points out that the crazy woman now has dyed scarlet hair....she is a piece of work....

the male owner hailed a cab for us at the end of the soi as he always does...

as we were about to go over the bridge back to the hotel, the taxi pulled into a gas station---flat tire...just what we wanted while we could hardly keep our eyes open....5 minutes and we were out of there...very quick...by now it was raining...the meter was running, which made me mad....it only went up 11 B however while we were there....

we bought some cake dessert from the bakery in the ground level and ate it in our room....
we tried to stay awake as long as possible but turned in early...

a good start to our vacation...

saturday, we were awake fairly early again, not having slept very well...at 6:30 we were up and watching the river traffic...down to breakfast about 8...
the weekends are very busy at the marriott as lots of residents hang around the pool as there is no work form many people that day and many come in for the weekend...

we had a nice swim after breakfast...my back was much better finally....it started to rain...then it really poured!!!...its the beginning of the rainy season...last year we came to bkk at exactly the same time and had beautiful weather...clouding up about noon most days but little rain...so we decided to repeat our 2004 trip....this year much more rain but it really never interferred with our plans except once or twice...

for lunch we had decided to try a new to us restuarant called Face on soi 38, sukhumvit road....carol (simpson510) had sung its praises...i had looked it up on the internet and had found out that it is housed in old traditional thai houses and that there were both an indian and a thai restaurant on the property as well as a spa and a bar and a pastry shop....we opted for the thai restaurant and made a reservation to return one nite for the indian restaurant...
the spaces were beautiful...there is no name outside, just a gold and black sign with a face profile on it...
the indian rest. is not open for lunch by the way...

our menu: chicken cashew (of course), BBQ'd pork (mostly fat), morning glory vines with garlic, and H2O, plus lemon tart and a passion fruit tart---1385B or $32.---not cheap but quite good...

we were given a tour of the small complex before we left...we learned that they were all new thai houses made of old wood...they are indonesian owned and that they currently have restaurants in bkk, jakarta and shanghai....

from there we took a taxi to the jim thompson outlet on soi 93, sukhumvit rd....one shopping mission we had on this trip was to purchase some additional JT upholstery fabrics for some projects that karen has in mind for our house...

after spending quite a while there karen was able to find several things that she liked...the savings are huge at the outlet if you can find what you want (as much as 80%)...there must be hundreds of choices and all JT quality....in march we took a chair to an upholsterer to be redone and he told us that the JT fabric was the best quality he had worked with in quite a while...we had purchsed that at the main retail shop on suriwong a couple of years ago...karen carries samples of fabrics, wallpapers, etc of all of our rooms which makes choosing things easier...she took samples from JT to think about...

we went onto floor 3 at JT, which is the general merchandise area and spent quite a while there buying placemats, dresses for the grands, jewerly bag gifts, scarfs...etc...

my back was acting up so we called it quits and the doorman got us a taxi..

we returned to the hotel for a late afternoon swim...

we took a taxi to baan khanitha on soi 23, sukhumvit for dinner....we had had a wonderful lunch there last year and wanted to return....we had had a terrible dinner at their other location on ruam rudee and do not suggest it to anyone....we had a wonderful meal...as a starter they present you with a tray of goodies from which you make small bite sized hors d'oeuvres out of several food stuffs and wrap it up in a leaf and eat it in one bite....quite delicious...this was followed by stir fried chicken and young shredded ginger, stir fried shrimp and young coconut, stir fried veggies and rice with shrimp and pineapple with curry served in a pineapple...we had a couple of beers and some H@O followed by mango and sticy rice...all well prepared and beautifully served...a delicious meal....1377 B

they got a taxi for us back to the hotel where 3 weddings were going on...we managed to stay awake until 11...

Loving your report and taking notes. Welcome home Bob!
Aloha!

i was looking forward to sunday...as a foodie sunday is a good day in bkk...most hotels put on large spreads...my favorite is the indian buffet at the rembrandt hotel and we had a reservation made via the internet...

we were up early and down to breakfast...the room had changed for that weekend to another room....

we swam for a couple of hours and then took a taxi to the rembrandt on soi 18, sukhumvit rd....their rang mahal restaurant on the 26th floor has a wonderful view over bangkok....they had a fabulous table reserved for us in a large window that jutted out from the building...we had a fabulous view...there is an indian band that plays appropriate music in another room and there is a very festive attitude always in this restaurant....there is a very good representation of indian food available as well as limited western foods...they make crepes at a staion as well and there are fabulous western and indian desserts as well as fruit smoothies and custom made eggs....there are fish and meat dishes as well and delicious nam breads...the rooms are loaded with indian families, so you know that the food is good...

as there was little traffic we arrived at the hotel early so went to the internet cafe next door and caught up on things for the first time of our stay...

the buffet is 575 B per person --$14.50...a bargain...
the view is excellent....

after lunch we asked to see a room as this hotel is often mentioned on fodors...the room was a bit small but quite nice....i think it is about $75 er nite....the location is fabulous....there are wonderful restaurants in the hotel and all around this area...

from there we asked for their free tuk tuk ride to the end of the soi at sukhumvit....we walked down to the sheraton grande and went in to cool off and decided to ask to see a room there....the rooms are fantastic, very lux and well appointed....far better than it's sister the royal orchid sheraton, which is neither royal or lux....sorry kathie/gpanda, i had to put my dig in....the pool area was crowded on a sunday and is not very large being up several floors, but offers quite a bit of shade under large trees....we were told that they have a fantastic long stay (14+days) rate for anyone interested....the location is wonderful right on sukhumvit and near to the skytrain...

the rooms have a real thai feeling with lots of thai silk being used for decoration...

from there we went across the street as lyndie had asked me to check out the westin hotel....it is very modern and sleek....it however has more of a convention feeling to it...the rooms are very modern and sleek with glass and chrome and a bit minimalistic...it was decent....its a priceline award often at about $75....

from there we took the skytrain to taskim and the boat to the hotel...

we went out front to visit my tailor, jack...he owns monet il sarto in the mini mall attached to the marriott resort...he is on the 2nd floor overlooking the parking lot....i have had great luck with his stuff...his prices are fair and his quality very decent...
i found some shirt fabric that suited me...although i had previously decided that i could open my own shirt shop...

his current promotion is 6 shirts for $80--all cotton...

karen decided on a channel styled jacket in a thai heather fabric of wool and silk---amazing at $37....

from there we went down for a swim having agreed on a fitting visit...

after the swim we got a taxi to the gallery cafe near to the ROS hotel...we had a rushed meal there last year and it was delicious and we wanted to return to give it a better look...it was delicious and there was excellent service...they have quite a large shop there and a massage room upstairs...

our menu:: cashew chicken, sweet and sour shrimp and baby corns and mushroom in an oyster sauce plus rice...this was followed by mango and sticky rice...all very delicious...
karen had a cappichino....1154 B....

taxi back to the hotel,,,,karen did some personal laundry and we were in bed by 10:30...

by the way this was day 2 of a national budist holiday...

that's all for tonight....

bob

Bob-keep it coming-all that food talk is making me crazy! Gotta rush a whip a thai curry for dinner!

don't whip it just eat it....

Bob--I love the detail. I'm writing down the restaurants and addresses for next year's visit. I can't wait to hear the rest.

Bob--just curious, you say Harmonique was formerly your favorite. What's your favorite now?

Bob - really appreciate the extent of your report - I love to know the nitty gritty like how much things are at the moment. Am making notes for out trip at the end of July. Even when you know a city quite well, there is nothing like up to the minute info. I'm particularly interested in Prasart when you get to it. Thanks - Mary

roberto; you seemed very nimble to me as you jumped on the escalator at the emporium. never thought you had any mobility problems. glad to see you had recovered.

fun report.

Bob - thoroughly enjoying the report!

I want to read more

Thanks
Mystic

Loving your report. Makes me want to get on a plane right now. Isn't it wonderful how when you return to a hotel or a shop you feel like you're seeing old friends? So different from this country.

Mary-- Prasart is wonderful. A must do for fodorites who have visited thailand before and want to do something very special. If you do a search you'll see my comments on it from last Jan.

Looking forward to reading more and glad your back improved early!

Good morning Bob. I'm sitting here with my coffee, laptop in my lap, reading your report. It's wonderfully detailed. Keep it coming. So glad you enjoyed Face. Thank you for the description of the place, as my son did not tell me very much, other than how wonderful it is.

Can't wait to read more. I'm also curious about your new favorite restaurant in BKK, now that Harmonique has dropped to #2.

Carol

Bob-- does Monet il Sarto have a better selection of wools than the other stores? I may want a wool suit made next trip and have been wondering where to go for interesting fabrics (i.e. not solids). The one Karen bought sounds gorgeous and a silk/wool combination would be perfect for me.

Thanks

gloria....jack (monet) does not have a vast collection of wools really... we just happened to see that piece of nubbly tweed like textured material...jack said the fabric is very cheap as it is locally "grown" so karen thought she would try it and a jacket for $37 is unbelievable...cheaper than a blouse...

our new favoirite for those of you wondering is tongue thai directly in back of oriental place....small, intimate, attractive and delicious food....it is good thai without all the craziness of harmonique....we still love harmonique and went there twice on this trip...on our next to last nite i had harmonique scheduled for a 3rd visit and i asked karen where she would prefer to go and she said tongue thai over all of the potential restuarants in bkk....i gladly agreed...

gpanda has suggested that we champion it here on fodors and that is what i shall do....only possible negetive is that the food tends to be very hot but they will adjust that also...

monday, may 23----up about 7...because of the 3rd day of the buddist holiday we knew that traffic would be slight which was to our benefit, but also some shops would again be closed....downstairs to breakfast and then out to the pool, where are lounges were already laid out for us....but some asian guests decided that they were for them and took them...no problem...we found a new spot..

after a nice swim we took a taxi to river city shopping center....formerly the marriott ran boats to river city...since the skytrain, they have stopped this practice, so it is slightly more difficult to get there easily...you can hop other hotel boats or take the choa payra express boats or walk but we usually opt for a taxi....
karen ordered her clothing for js thai silk...: a black and white patterned silk blouse with a greek key sort of design with black buttons and nice details--1500B; kimono style silk shirt in a black, white and gray plaid with covered buttons--1800B; and black heavy silk dressy slacks---usually 2500B, but specially priced for karen at 2200 B....this is a start as undobutably other things will be ordered....they have such wonderful looking fancy things, but we never "dress" any more so we just look at them...a fitting is scheduled as they always are...although we do note someone's complaint about js's work when no fitting was requested or required....still find this hard to believe...

we took a taxi to the Conrad Hotel on Wireless Road near the American Embassy...this newish hotel is very nicely situated "in town" and only opened a couple of years ago...it is attached to a small upscale mall and office building that i think is called all seasons place....
we love the dim sum lunch at the liu restaurant on the 3rd floor....

we were seated at a large table, the same table in fact that we sat at last year and we were greeted by a very nice waiter/manager who had assisted us last year....we remembered him and think that he also remembered us...the menu is fantastic....you order from a small menu that has about 40 items on it, each with a small description...the meal is a set price of 600B each and you may order as much as you wish...it comes with a soup, and shark's fin soup is an additional charge...we do not request the shark's fin so am unable to speak to it...the hot and sour soup is wonderful and is freshly made for each customer and comes in the middle of your meal....the choices are unuaual, as well, as some of our normal dim sum favorites....karen's favoirite is a puffy egg white cloud stuffed with a sweet yellow egg mixture...WE HIGHLY RECCOMEND THIS DAILY LUNCH OFFERING...we went twice...our final bill was 1500 B...
karen records that the mall was a bit boring as we walked around there after our lunch...we did not know how to get from the hotel to the mall and asked a staff member and she personally took us there....this is so typical of thai service personnel...

from there we took a taxi to the Pratunam Market---carol, simpson510 has sung its praises... we lucked out as it was not very busy because of the holiday...

the market is a wild affair...it is a series of narrow passageways some of which are inside buildings and some outside....they sell mostly clothing related items....most of the items are too small for the western frame, but we did buy some children's clothing, some bedded evening bags (a carol favorite) at $5 each, and a few other items...you have never seen so much merchandise in your life..
the market is a fairly large area and we spent perhaps an hour and 1/2 there....it is far more managable than the weekend market is...some areas have limited a/c as well which makes it comfortable or at least tolerable...

from there we took another taxi to the jim thompson outlet on suriwong....this is at the opposite end of suriwong from the JT main store...in this shop it is 99% fabric...karen took some upholstery samples to think about...

taxi back to the hotel....

we went out front to see jack and to do a fitting on our items...my shirts and karen's jacket...

for dinner i had selected another favorite...Crepes and Co on soi 12, sukhumvit....this swiss owned restaurant offers both interior and exterior service...it is directly next door to cabbages and condoms, whose food we find to be only fair, but cheap...
crepes is not just a crepiere...they offer middle eastern tid bits and tapas as well as crepes of every sort possible...they are open 7 days per week and quite late as well, and serve breakfast, lunch and dinner...we love their meals...great place for a full meal or just a crepe dessert...our full dinner with main course of crepes (4 seasons for me which is a wild combo of ham, eggs, cheese, veggies and for karen the casa blanca) and for dessert karen had a pineapple caramel crepe and i had a danish crepe (ice cream, chocolate sauce and nuts)---1100 B with only water to drink and one glass of wine for karen...1100 B...

we took a taxi back to the hotel...

on past trips we have always tried to use the yellow and green taxis only, when possible...they are owner driven...they are more reliable, speak some english and generally know the city better....this year while we always opted for the same, we did take some red and blue taxis with both good and bad results...also we used some of the new brightly colored taxis, like solid orange or blue with good results...we did have plenty of taxis that had no springs and were in poor shape but most are decent and all are clean in the back sitting area...unlike boston...we were taken for 2 joy rides which made me very mad and both involved using the toll road to "avoid traffic" and once the driver was going to use the high bridge next to the marriott on our return which would have put us way out of the way and into a huge traffic jam...this was avoided at the last minute when i told him to take the lower road, saving us both time and money....he just was unsure of his way...

at 35 B for a beginning fare and trips as long as one hour only costing $5, you have to say they are a bargain...this year we had no a/c problems---lack of....in past years this was sometimes a problem...

at the early part of our trip we did everything via taxi because my back was still bothering me and i always sat up front with the driver for ease of getting in and out...we also did have at least one driver who was high on drugs and another who had a sort of Tourettes Syndrome---both very scarey rides....

as we have been to bkk so many times our report will not contain much info on the sites available in bkk of which there are many, but will concentrate on shopping, eating and everyday life of the city....

if you have specific questions i would be glad to answer if i know the info....just ask away...

more later...have to go see the grand kids this PM who we haven't seen since mid-may....gift time too....