Currently we have a place (3 nights) at the Keio Plaza Hotel in Shinjuku. I really would like to see Tsukiji Fish market the morning after we arrive but I am alarmed at how far it seems from Shinjuku. Should I be? Will trains be running then? I've heard taxis are very costly...would they still be at 4:30 in the morning(sans traffic)?

And so this brings me to the real scope of my question: is shinjuku the right neighborhood for us to stay in? This is our first trip to Japan but I want to see "old" Japan as much as possible. Of course, I know Tokyo is a huge, "new"(post-40s) city so "old" might be hard to come by anyway...

Bonjour HunyBadger,

For the "old" Tokyo, Shinjuku is definitely not the place. You should aim for Asakusa or Yanaka/Nezu. Yanaka is one of the few neighborhoods that escaped the fires in 1923 and during WW2 and still retains some of the charms of "old" Tokyo, although quite a lot is vanishing fast.

If you stay in Asakusa, a taxi to Tsukiji in the middle of the night should not be too horribly expensive.

The neighborhood around your hotel consists of financial and government skyscrapers with zero hint of the "old". I'll take a guess and say it's not what you're looking for. It's also kind of too far from Shinjuku station in my opinion; you can surely find a hotel more centrally located.

In my reply to your Kimono question, I suggested the Ryokan Shigetsu. We were there in April and a Japanese style room for 4 ran us 36,000 yen. For two would be less. Great location and their breakfasts (american or japanese) were great.

But, must admit it's a bit far from the Tsukiji Market.

Have recently see absolute raves on this forum for the following hotel which is more centrally located and would be easier reach to the Tsukiji market. Do a search on this name:
Hotel Seiyo Ginza

Many travel guides recommend you visit the Tsukiji Market, then roam over to the Hama Rikyu park where you can pick up the water bus going up the Sumida River to Asakusa. It's a nice boat ride.

LeslieC ~ what neighborhood is Ryokan Shigetsu in?

Florence ~ Do you have any suggestions for places to stay in Yanaka/Nezu?

Bonjour HunyBadger,

Ryokan Shigetsu is in Asakusa, right in the middle of a maze of small streets leading to the temple. A really good place and a good hotel/ryokan. One street down is Ryokan Mikawaya honten where I stayed last April (the Shigetsu was full) and liked, but my mom and I have modest tastes ;-)

In Yanaka, I can recommend two ryokans: Katsutaro (their new annex) and Sawanoya. Not as luxurious as Shigetsu, but clean and used to cater for foreigner and very convenient for tasting the local life.

In nearby Ueno, look for Suigetsu Hotel Ohgaiso.

You will find them all in the following list, look for hotels and ryokans located in Taito ward.

Sorry, I forgot the link:

http://www.itcj.or.jp/search/pref/tokyo.html

and one recommendation:

Ryokan Yamanaka http://www.itcj.or.jp/facility/3/facil/313032.html

HunyBadger-
Here's a direct link to the Ryokan Shigetsu in Asakusa:

http://shigetsu.com/indexE.htm

Highly touted by Frommers as one of the best reasonably priced Japanese Inns. There are less expensive places but we really wanted private ensuite bath. This is a popular place so book early.

The location, in an enclave of pedestrian shopping arcades and temples was very appealing. Plus we found it very convenient to the Asakusa and Ginza lines of the subway.