dogster

THat was just an emergency visa for idiots to get me IN to Sikkim. I don't know how long normal visas last for - but I do know that once in to Sikkim, you can't go back once you've left [for a fortnight, or a month - I dunno] Glenburn will advise.

Kathie

Ah, I see. I am hoping that perhaps Glenburn can arrange the Sikkim permit. You're right, once you leave Sikkim you can't get another permit for 30 days.

Oh, and we've been re-thinking our itinerary in Darjeeling, and we're now planning for 5 nights at Glenburn rather than dividing our time between the Elgin in Darjeeling and the Glenburn. All, of course, is subject to change.

Kathie

Alas! I just received a lovely email from Glenburn and they are already full for our dates - 6 months out. They gave us alternative dates and I'm now juggling our itinerary. This may give us an opportunity to make one other stop in Sikkim or Darjeeling before we get to the Glenburn, but it will cost us our time in Kolkata, I think.

I'm looking at Bamboo Resort and Yangsom farm-stay, but also looking for additional ideas for three nights.

dogster

Dang. 6 months out! Still, let's make a positive of this negative. You will be SO happy at Bamboo Resort. It's in the centre of half a dozen wonderful monasteries. 'Sweet Sikkim' gives you it all. My Bongo was the manager. If he's still there, get him to take you out. He's the sweet virgin Bongo.

blissful. His brother is a monk.

Yangsum is good for two or three days. There you can meet the lady with sixteen children. And the food! ahhh.

And you could then do the Dogster Secret Trail across the scary suspension bridge en route to Gelnburn.

I'm a bit lost on your itinerary now. If you let me know the latest, I bet I can help. I have a map or two you might like.

Kathie

Sigh. We changed our itinerary half a dozen times just last night. And I have some different ideas this morning.

First, my thought was to add in either Bamboo Resort or Yangsum (or several somewhere elses) for three nights. But Cheryl felt it would be a travesty to make our first trip to India and not visit a major city. And of course, she's right. So next we juggled our Kolkata time to have it first, then Sikkim and Darjeeling, but we'd have to have one night in Kokata on our way back to Bangkok (due to flight times). I hate those one-night stays - such a waste of time.

So this morning, I'm thinking of dividing our Bangkok time three nights before and three nights after (even though I hate to do it), then fly through Kolkata to Bagdora and on to Gangtok for 3 nights, 2 nights Pelling, 5 at Glenburn, then 3 in Kolkata and back to Bangkok for three nights.

Thoughts?

dogster

I always travel in three's or sixes, so I think your plan is a good solution. Your only difficult day is the BKK to Kolkata to Bagdogra to Gangtok. I'm exhausted just writing it. You know how long that day will be - it's a killer. What did Glenburn say about the helicopter?

Of course, Oberoi in Kolkata. Get a deal with the Oberoi pick-up. Trust me. Just do it. Breakfast is great there - make sure that's included. November rates will be high tho', but this might be one place to roll with that. It's pretty much the perfect Kolkata location.

Apart from that one day, I think it's a fair plan. Why not choose an entirely different BKK location for your second time? Break the habit. Stay in town.

rhkkmk

kathie=ROS---no possibility of a change!!!

Kathie

Gee, I thought I made that day so much better by spending a few days in Bangkok first. Remember, my first plan was Seattle to Narita to Bangkok arriving midnight, overnight at the Novotal at the BKK airport, then board the plane for Kolkata to Bagdogra then transport to Gangtok. So I don't even feel the need to catch my breath with the new plan!

Glenburn hasn't made any promises about the helicopter. It would make that transit day much easier.

The Glenburn is pricey - the 5 day package I'm requesting is rs 108,000 for 5 nights. The price on their website is 90,000 but that price expires something like September. So I'm almost afraid to find out what the Oberoi will be. The 5 day package is a "good deal", regular prices are 22,000 per night for two, and the package gets us some extras (2 massages each, 2 foot reflexology each, etc).

Will I pay a premium for having Glenburn organize all this or would I better off price-wise to arrange for the Elgins on my own? Or, can the Glenburn get me special rates elsewhere - maybe even the Oberoi?

As for staying somewhere new in Bangkok... you never know. We might do it.

dogster

They'll do everything in their power to avoid the hassle of arranging the helicopter. I suspect it won't make the slightest difference price wise whicheverway you do it. All I know is that if Glenburn is running things, everything will tick over like clockwork - and if there is any oddity, injury, illness or grief, I know that I'd prefer to be in their hands.

The woman in charge is a charming killer - but not to the guests. She gets things done. Well, here's an oddity, Kathie. Look on the Glenburn website at their Kolkata ideas. Glenburn were the very people who arranged my trip to the Bengal Club. They actually have a very sophisticated guide woman in Kolkata who will take you to the races. Go see. It's all in the site.

If you stay in the Glenburn network [which includes Yangsum, Bamgoo etc. AND the Kolkata options], you'll be looked after. They arranged me thru Sikkim - but I wasn't smart enough then to know costs, so I can't advise. You could check it easy as pie, anyway.

Yikes, don't look at the Oberoi rates. I just did. It's too early.

Kathie

Too late - I've looked at the Oberoi rates. But I keep telling myself those are rack rates and no one pays rack rates. I have looked at what Glenburn offers in Kolkata and it looks very interesting.

I remember your writing about the Bengal Club, and I'm not sure we'd want to be there. Even the Glenburn calls the rooms "musty."

Anyway, I think I'll just let them get back to me with some prices, then I'll make the next set of decisions.

thursdaysd

Interesting article on Arunachal Pradesh: http://www.economist.com/world/asia/...ry_id=15858711

Kathie

Thanks, Thursdays, a very interesting article. As you know, I'm interested in all of those areas of India.

vp_singh

I am not very familiar with Sikkim though my wife grew up in Gangtok when her dad was an executive engineer on the border roads. This area is well on my sights as well & needs to be researched for a lot of nice properties have come up in this region. I have talked to a couple of retired army generals & some planter friends. From the discussions I gather that a night or two in Rumtek is fine before moving on to Gangtok from Pelling. The Bamboo Resort being run by a Swiss lady comes well upto western standards of hygeine. A couple of days in Kalimpong at a Home stay like Gurudongma House will also give you time to interact with Gen. Jimmy Singh, an authority on this region. His farm house at Samthar is a great place to stay in, though the road to it is rough.
I am not sure if the helicopter ride would work out, though it would be a great idea. Therefore instead of Gangtok which is about 5 hours from airport, Darjeeling or Kurseong is much closer, on a day in the winters, when the sun goes down fairly early. The toy train will fetch you up to Darjeeling!
A couple of days at Glenburn with it's very authentic tea tour is not a bad idea.
The suspension bridge mentioned by Dogster devides West Bengal from Sikkim. An entry or exit from this bridge should not be attempted for there seems to be no check-post at this point. It is very close to Glenburn & one could go for sightseeing.
About 3 nights in Calcutta for the walks / cruise / authentic Bengali lunch & dinners / tea at Tollygunge, is fine. Nothing can beat the Oberois Grand, located right on the main boulvard in Chowringhee!
Happy travels!

Kathie

Thank you for your comments, vp. All of our reservations are made for Sikkim and Darjeeling and I'll be wiring a deposit next week. We've chosen Norkhill in Gangtok, Mt. Padim near Pelling and Glenburn. As part of our stay at Glenburn, I understand we'll be able to walk the grounds and cross the suspension bridge.

We will not (unfortunately) be taking the helicopter to Gangtok, but have arranged a car and driver. While it is a long drive, it appears to be a long drive from Bagdogra to any of the places we are going.

We have not yet made hotel reservations in Kolkata. If you have suggestions on how to get a good price on the Oberoi Grand, I love to her them.

vp_singh

Enjoy your travels!
The Oberoi Grand will have the BAR rates for the day. You could make a reservation directly, as well.
When in Calcutta ask your guide to give you a meal at 'Bhojohari Manna'. It has typical Bengal ambience.
Ask your driver to bring along an extra cushion for some of the roads, or sections thereof,in Sikkim, are a bit rough, I am told.
Take an endorsement for Sikkim entry from the nearest India consulate to your residence. It could be arranged in India as well on your arrival, by your travel agent.
It will not be a bad idea to take a local guide-escort along. For, in our hills, the local buses ordinarily are the sole mode of transport. The service is eratic & the local guides have a ready excuse for arriving late!!!
We will keep an eye for your trip report, on your return!!

Smitashok

Hello Kathie, just saw this today and couldnt resist adding my input. I would suggest that you save Kolkata for the last. A good place to stay in Kolkata would be the Tollygunge Club if you are on a budget. There are also lots of guest houses in the city. If you want to call the Oberoi Grand, I can get you their number and rates if you give me approx dates.If you want info about walks, I could put you in touch with somebody who "does" them. Try the Govt Tourist Lodge in Darjeeling. Rs 2000/- per night. You can hire your own cars. More later

Kathie

Thanks for your comments, Smitashok. All of our reservations in Sikkim and Darjeeling are made and secured with a deposit.

We still have to make our hotel reservations in Kolkata. Our first choice is the Oberoi Grand, but not at the prices they are quoting on their website right now: 28,050 INR plus 10% tax per night for a Premier room including breakfast and two way airport transfers. Dogster says to wait until closer to the date and see what kinds of specials they are offering. We'll be in Kolkata approx Dec 1-4. As we get closer to our dates, I will email or call them to request better rates.