Kathie

Yup, that's the Jet schedule I found. However, it seemed to show that there was no Premier on Jet connect... maybe I read that wrong.

So I book the helicopter through Glenburn's office, but it sounds like I have to be careful not to use the words "helicopter charter" and instead say "Sikkim official Helicopter transfer" or some such? Give me the right words, please. And I'd want to arrange with Glenburn that if for any reason the helicopter doesn't go, we want them to arrange a land transfer. (Any idea whether the Elgin people can do this? Given our long, exhausting first day, I'd rather stay at the Elgin the first night, then perhaps go to Bamboo.)

I don't know what the protocol will be at the monasteries in Sikkim. In some places a gracious request is all it takes, at others, the gender issue looms larger. My plan had been to talk with someone at the hotel about it. But since you have a contact, perhaps that's the best way to go.

dogster

You're right - there's no premier on the second leg.
What's your latest itinerary?
Thoughts on Glenburn? [if you're smart you'll arrange their pick up from Pelling to Glenburn [via Nama Bazar] and then going out use their transfer to Bagdogra. 100% no risk, in good hands if there's any oddness. Best use of their services]

I just raise the protocol gender issue in the hope that someone knows the drill.

For Glenburn, three nights wouldn't be too much. You'd arrive for a late lunch about 1.30 ish. coming from Pelling, via the Dogster mystery route; across the suspension bridge and the River Lodge for lunch. Delicious.

On your last day, have them take you to Ghoom to catch the return loop of the Toy Train joy-ride, driver follows train with luggage, you arrive in Darjeeling - by train. Very cool.

All day in Darjeeling to wander, a night at Elgin, another day and night if you want it then off to Badogra next day is pretty stress-free.

Kathy, I assume you're aware that the bandh situation in Darjeeling is even more volatile than Nepal?

Marija

Kathie--just pack a tiara and those monastery doors will open for you too...

Kathie

Marija, now why didn't I think of the tiara?

Glenburn... Well it seems I should have at least three nights there. I'm still playing around with the numbers of days where. Yes, I was also thinking to use their transfer services from Pelling then onward to Bagdogra. I like your train idea.

I am aware of the bandh issue in Darjeeling. I'm just going to wait and watch. BTW, if there is a bandh, would it just affect Darjeeling or also Sikkim. That is, if it looks really unstable, could I just visit Sikkim then to Kolkata without a problem or does the whole area close down? Weren't you at Glenburn when there was a Bandh?

I will, of course, need full instructions for the dogster mystery route.

dogster

Darjeeling sits at the doorway to Sikkim. When Darj goes on strike, like it or not, Sikkim is stranded. No way in, no way out. If there WAS a bandh, you can be assured your helicopter seats will be requisitioned. The heli is the only way in to Gangtok.

Yup, I was stuck in Glenburn for three days. Even getting to Glenburn from Sikkim was an adventure. Hence the discovery of the Mystery Route via the suspension bridge [pic in Glenburn site]

Kathie

Hmmm... so on the map, I see a road running next to the train tracks from Siliguri to Darjeeling. It forks, one fork going to enter Sikkim at Rangpo, then on to Gangtok. So all of that would be closed with a bandh. Rats! I'll have to keep close tabs on it.

Ah, I saw the photo of the suspension bridge... that must have been an adventure!

dogster

A serious bandh in Darjeeling will close all the roads in the area, not just in town - lock-down from the Sikkim border to Bagdogra.

It's so volatile Kathy, I don't think any amount of research will help you predicting very much. Luck of the draw.

Kathie

Thanks, dogster. I spent some time last night doing some reading on the current situation in Darjeeling. It does sound like quite a mess.

Fortunately, we have plenty of time before our proposed trip. At some point, I'll have to make a decision about whether to go ahead and book or not. If it looks too unstable, I suppose I could go back to the Assam plan.

If you or others have thoughts about the bandh situation in Darjeeling, I'd be interested in hearing them.

Kathie

I've done a lot of reading about the bandh situation in Darjeeling. I've decided to move ahead with planning this trip and deal with the bandh issue if/when it arises.

So I'm planning for three nights in the Gangtok area, two at Pelling, then -

I have 5 or 6 nights before flying to Kolkata.
is it worth an overnight at Kalimpong? (I generally don't like to stay somewhere just one night... but if there is something special to do/see there, I'd consider it)

If we don't overnight at Kalimpong, then should I spend all of my Darjeeling nights at Glenburn (5) with a day trip into Darjeeling, or should I spend a couple of nights at the Elgin in Darjeeling (4 nights Glenburn, 2 Elgin)?

Craig

Sounds like a verrrrry interesting 1st trip to India...

Not having been to any of these places, I think you are taking it at the right pace though.

Kathie

Thanks, Craig. We're really excited about this first trip to India. I know it's not INDIA, but I think we'll enjoy it. We're going to apply for 10 year visas so we'll be prepared for a next trip.

dogster

I'd be splitting your Darj time 3/2.

Use Day 1 to get to Glenburn [via Doster's secret suspension bridge and other adventures]

Days 2 & 3 to do Glenburn local walks, wanders, food and tea tour - all really good. [will add more info when you need] Then, get them to transfer you via Ghoom monastery and the railway to Darj]

If you get Glenburn to book your Elgin hotel in Darj, then they'll be obliged to transfer you down to Bagdogra.

I didn't go to Kalimpong so can't advise. Check on a map, however. Pelling to Kal to Glenburn to Darj may not be very efficient, travel wise. Backtracking, I think.

For a minor heads up on the Dogster Special Adventure go to Google maps [use the satellite map]: find NayaBazar.

Got it? See the river? Follow that to your right along the Melli Nayabazar Rd. Not too far. You'll get to a village called Jorethang. Found it?

Zoom in on Jorethang. Zoom in some more. You'll find the Scary Suspension Bridge. Cross it - you can just see the little pathway heading along going right. You'll walk along that path, a slave carrying your bags, not very far away there will be a car.

Back to the map.

Go right from Jorethang along the river. The river is shaped kinda like a 'W'. Trace your way along that first 'W' and you'll come to some rapids around the next corner. Zoom in.
Just below the rapids you'll see a strange octaonal shape. Zoom in.

That's the Glenburn Fishing Lodge where you'll have lunch, then, wined and dined, you'll be transferred 45 mins up the windy hill to Glenburn proper. Only Dog has done this.

I love the fishing lodge. When I go back I want to stay there.

BTW, on your Goole map, you'll see where Kalimpong is. Also the position of Glenburn, as shown, is wildly incorrect.

Kathie

Thanks for your comments, dogster. I had to chuckle about google earth showing the location of Glenburn incorrectly. Lonely Planet says something to the effect that maps of Sikkim "approach pure fantasy." Makes it hard to plan... lol. On the map I was looking at, it seemed Kalimpong was between Pelling and Darjeeling... but who knows. It actually makes my planning easier if I don't "need" to go to Kalimpong.

I'll spend some time with google earth when I have time and see if it elucidates any of my questions.

BTW, when you had your adventure crossing the suspension bridge, were you coming from Pelling to Glenburn or from somewhere else?

dogster

Richenpong. Yansum Farm to Glenburn.

Lol, your map is seriously out of whack.

dogster

BTW The only logical time to go to Kalimpong would be on the way UP to Gangtok if you can't get the heli.

Kathie

Thanks, dogster. With that info, we won't consider Kalimpong. I guess LP's maps are also fantasy-based.

Other than the location of Glenburn, does the Google earth map look fairly accurate for this area to you?

dogster

Yup - Google maps is fine: add in the satellite one as well.

I love to trace where I've been, hence my discovery of the great suspension bridge on the map. Glenburn is basically half way between the river and Darjeeling. From the river up to Glenburn is private Glenburn land, private roads and tea fields. I've walked down-hill from Glenburn to the Fishing Lodge I pointed out. Great walk. I wouldn't wanna walk UP, 'tho.

That big blank spot on the map between Darj and the river is, in fact, criss-crossed with private roads. You will save yourself about three hours coming in the suspension bridge way - otherwise it's all the way up to Darj. then back to Glenburn.

There is a back way to Kalimpong from Glenburn, but I havn't driven it.

Kathie

Our research and planning continue. I now have an interesting collection of out-of-print books on Sikkim.

Yesterday, I emailed the Glenburn, and, as per your suggestion, Dogster, I gave them a tentative itinerary and asked how much of it they could organize (including the helicopter transfer). Where/how did you get your Sikkim permit? If we drive to Gangtok, I know we can get it at Rangpo. If we fly, we'll need to get it in advance.

dogster

Well, I turned up at the helicopter with NO visa. lol. That was a bit of excitement. Actually, at the border, they are permitted to give you three days - but you then have to go to the office in Gangtok to get it extended. No real drama although Darlene from the office did let out a little sob. She swears blind she told me - but she didn't. If you go with Glenburn, that amazing lady who runs the place will fix everything.

They will be able to organise all, but they can be slow getting info back from homestay places. Look at their links and allied properties. You'll see who they deal with. Good luck. Report back.

Kathie

Thanks, dogster. No where in the LP or on India Mike does it say the permit at Rangpo is only good for three days, so that's good to know. I'd like to get the permit when we get our visas, but since India contracts for visas through a private agency here in the US, it's not clear that will work. I'll ask the Glenburn about it as they get back to me on the various questions about our plan.

I'll keep you posted as this unfolds.