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Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1

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Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1

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Old Jan 29th, 2017, 05:21 PM
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Currently doing a similar trip in reverse direction, and not yet to Cochin, I really liked Thekkady/ Periyar (same town essentially) and also enjoyed Pondicherry.
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Old Jan 31st, 2017, 08:13 PM
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India:
Thanks, CaliNurse and satoric. So do you think I should substitute Thekkady for Munar for that one night when I pass between the two states? It looks like Munar takes a northern route, and Thekkady takes a southern route. What would be the advantages of one over the other? BTW, Tim at Indian Panorama has been fantastic.

Sri Lanka:
I did hear back from Kanchana at Camlo Lanko Tours (thanks, susiesan). He quoted me $55 per day for car and driver, and he's going to evaluate my proposed itinerary soon.
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 09:11 AM
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CaliLady: $55 a day is a very good price. Did Kanchana say Terrance would be available to be your driver?

I know Kanchana will work with you as to who covers the hotels, you directly or him as part of a tour. He has a lot of good ideas about the order of visiting places and where to stay.

I see you have 2 days planned for Horton Plains. That is too much, and it costs over $30 a day as a foreigner to enter. We spent the night before in Nuwara Eliya and got up early to drive there, arriving at the opening time of 7:00-7:30. We hiked until 1:00 or so. That was plenty of time.
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 08:42 PM
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Hi susiesan - Kanchana said that Terrance is available as of now, but he can't necessarily "assign" him to me, and that many of his other drivers are wonderful. We'll see--I'll pester Kanchana again later, which is my specialty. I saw that you posted on his Facebook page asking him to contact me--that was so very nice of you--thank you!

I now agree with your comments about Horton Plains. The usual procedure seems to be staying in Nuwara Eliya. I may, however, try to do some more extensive hiking that day. I have developed an interest in birds after visiting Borneo--they are so pretty, and they make interesting noises.

I'm still waiting to hear from Kanchana about the rest of the itinerary. Was he a little slow in getting back to you, susiesan?
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Old Feb 1st, 2017, 10:54 PM
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Haha! Pestering as your specialty, California Lady. LOL!! I can "relate."

Re: substituting Thekkady for Munnar...can't say from personal experience. Sartoric sure makes it tempting to visit Thekkady. Read her trip report, if you've not already done. . Another idea is google search "Munnar or Thekkady" --lots of folks have to choose it seems. (Yrs ago I obsessed over Coonoor vs Munnar--the former won out).Though there are other threads, I'm copying the first below as it refers to a Sri Lankan tea plantation. Below that is another from Indiamike. It will just add choices/decisions as no one agrees on one or the other. Like you said earlier--oy vey!

https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntr...ar-or-thekkady

http://www.indiamike.com/india/keral...kkady-t103150/

Glad you are finding Tim helpful. He's the best travel agent of any I've used anywhere. For starters, he answers emails promptly, with detailed explanations. One of the tripadvisor reviews for Indianpanorama asked, "Does Tim ever sleep?"

Good luck with your continued "journey" toward the journey!
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Old Feb 2nd, 2017, 08:55 AM
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I see that you are dubious about staying in Nuwara Eliya. We stayed just outside in an old tree planter's mansion which was lovely but in retrospect probably not the best idea as we were a bit isolated. But we did manage to spend a couple of hours in the Botanical gardens which are wonderful [though are occasionally hit by attacks of giant hornets so you might want to be a bit careful] and there's a great cafe by the entrance.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2017, 10:48 AM
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Agree that the Botanical Gardens at NE are worth seeing, thought they were better the the ones in Kandy. You could look at staying at the colonial era St. Andrews hotel. I stayed at the Governor's Chalets at the other end of town by the lake.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2017, 12:21 PM
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thursdaysd - I thought that they were different rather than better or worse; IMO the ones in Kandy [much bigger of course] were more like a large park whereas the NE ones are more like a victorian pleasure garden. And the ones at Kandy have the orchids too.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2017, 12:16 PM
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CalLady: Kanchana usually got back to me within 24 hours of sending a message. He didn't have the job as a Sri Lanka Tourism Ambassador that he has now and wasn't traveling out of the country at that time. In fact, we met up with him 3 times during the 2 weeks we were there. he came to where we were to visit us and another friend of his who was using one of his drivers for her trip. You might ask him for his phone number and give him a call about planning your trip.

The day we were in NE it was raining and cold so we did not see anything of the town or gardens. We stayed at a small guesthouse on the edge of town, Heidi's Home. We had dinner there with the family and some other guests.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2017, 08:56 PM
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India:
Thank you, CaliNurse for your continued support. Yes, Tim is indeed amazing. I already told him that he deserves a medal of honor for putting up with me. In any case, he said that many guests go directly from Alleppey to Madurai in one day along a fast route, so I guess I'll do that, and add the night in Madurai. so right now, the India portion would look like this:

2 nights Cochin
2 nights Alleppey
3 nights Madurai
2 nights Chettinad
2 nights Tanjore
2 nights Pondicherry

I'm thinking of using Marriott points for Cochin, then perhaps having their driver take me to Allepey. From there, I will then have Tim's driver pick me up the day that I transfer to Madurai. Have you typically used Tim for part of the trip, but not others? I don't want to offend him but I think I want to plan the first four nights on my own. He keeps pushing the Emerald Isle in Allepey, and I'm wondering if I should stay on the other side like you did. Please advise.


Sri Lanka:
Thank you, thursdays, ann, and susie for so much help. Yes, you ladies have convinced me to adjust my itinerary as follows:

1 night Negambo
4 nights Dambulla
2 nights Nuwara Eliya
2 nights Deniyaya (Sinharaja Forest reserve)

The botanical gardens in Nuwara Eliya sound quite nice. As I said before, I'm a big nature fan, so I'll make sure to fit that in. And a question: BSL suggested taking a train from Nanu Oya back to Ella. I'm not a train fan--maybe it's something about the toilets, pardon my French, that makes me uneasy. Is the scenery that great, or should we drive back?

Susie - So Kanchana has taken on a new project? He still hasn't gotten back to me about the itinerary. Hopefully, he will soon. Do you have all your Sri Lanka hotels listed somewhere? As I recall, you booked some with Kanchana, and some on your own? He didn't mind?
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Old Feb 3rd, 2017, 10:01 PM
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Hello, fellow Californian. I've just been enjoying the taped Twitter reply of our former Gubernator to you-know-who about switching jobs. But I digress...

to answer your specific questions in my usual wordy way:

Marriott does NOT have a hotel where you should be in Cochin. Please, trust me on this! You can stay at a modern Marriott anywhere, but ...why get a cookie-cutter, let alone inconveniently located place, in Kerala ? One Marriott is out by the Cochin airport, another ( where I recall dgunbug stayed) is near a big new shopping mall, in the busy city area...NOT where you'll be able to just leave your accommodation and walk around amidst the fun and interesting narrow streets of historic Fort Cochin. There are marvelous and often inexpensive little historic hotels and homestays in the "right" area. You've written that you want to see the synagogue and the Kathakali Dance Center,. The former can be easily reached by tuktuk (I have a name of a sweet driver who will NOT hound your rip you off--have to get his name off the photo of his tuk tuk) the latter via walking and/or tuk tuk. Save your points for a different Marriott. If you want to save money, i totally get that (being a "budget" traveler with some splurges!) but you should be able to find a decent, clean lovely place for --just a guess--- $65-75, or even less.

The side of Vembanad we stayed on is MUCH quieter than the Alleppey side, The latter has more to do, per everyone I know who can compare. The backwaters is a place you can be as relaxed or active as you want. We wanted some of each. See Sartoric's report. Three nights for her, in the heat and humidity, was one night too much, but you have only two nights on your itinerary, which will likely go fast. If you are not comfortable with Emerald Isle (which I've NOT been to--but a friend has) then ask Tim about possibly booking you into a place called Thevercad (i think) which is run by a relative of the owner at Emerald Isle. It also gets great and clearly real reviews on tripadvisor. When planning my trip that didnt happened yet (Im detouring to Gujarat instead for now) Tim mentioned both.

My first trip to South India, I picked my own accommodations. I regretted choosing the homestay where spent the first two nights (too far out of town) and use that as an example where d.i.,y. is not the best idea in a place you know nothing about.The owner sent an overpriced car to the airport for pickup. He later hired a taxi driver to get us to the backwaters where our second place was-- Philpkuttys on the "quiet" side of Vembanad lake, which we loved for three days but was a very big splurge. After that, for ten days, we stayed exclusively with Indianpanorama driver and hotels. On two other two-week trips to India, IP booked all for me (after the typical informative detailed discussions, pros and cons) and are doing so again for my upcoming two week trip.

Anyone who's read my comments knows that based on experience of me and friends, using a good and honest agent (In India, or Africa) is the way to go. I know people like to DIY, and do so successfully. But why bother, in your case? If there is a place you like, run it by Tim and get his feedback. He may have a reason for not recommending it, or he may say, "Looks fine." As for having the hotel driver (not the IP driver, who will probably be different from your "longterm driver" ) take you to Alleppey...why? IP can easily do that drive, with pickup in Cochin and taking you to Alleppey. Again, just ask!! Keep it simple.

Here's my "hotel pick up story." Arrived into Kolkata at 2 a.m. when the OBEROI- was to send their driver to get me. Although this was a brief three-city fly-between-places trip I'd booked myself, Tim offered to have the local IP guy meet me at the airport. I politely declined. Mistake!!! Guess who never showed up? Yup--the Oberoi driver. This required assorted middle of the night phone calls and interventions from the kindness of strangers . Now, this was an exception--usually i've had no problem with local guest house drivers. But the point is, for someone whose trip will presumably be booked with one company, why sweat the small stuff details when it can be seamless, allowing you to relax so that you can enjoy your daytime wanderings?
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Old Feb 4th, 2017, 04:35 AM
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Totally agree about the Marriott in Kochi. I splurged on the Malabar House, which I loved, but I am sure you can find somewhere cheaper and also in the old town.

Your India itinerary feels a bit rushed to me.

I did not take the train in Sri Lanka, which I regret, but I am a big train fan (I was booking SL on the road from India, so not as careful as I might have been). If you are not a train fan I would skip it, the scenery by road is good, too.
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Old Feb 4th, 2017, 12:46 PM
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The only places I stayed that you have planned were Negombo and Nuwara Eliya.

At Negombo, we stayed in a small guesthouse for one night after arriving SL at midnight. We had them send someone to pick us up at the airport. Next morning after breakfast terrance the driver care to get us at 10:00 am when we headed for Anuradhapura. I can't find the name, it was only $30 a night. Probably not the level of accommodations you are looking at. I booked it myself direct with the guesthouse and paid them.

Here's where we stayed in NE Heidis Home
http://heidishomestay.com/
used booking.com for that and booked and paid myself. Kanchana didn't mind.

We visited Dambulla Cave Temple but did not stay there. We used Habarana for a base for 2 nights in that area.

As I recall, the only hotel Kanchana booked for us that was part of the tour price was in Kandy. All the others I took care of.
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Old Feb 4th, 2017, 02:32 PM
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Thursdaysd, where and why would you cut back, given that there are only 13 days in the South India segment of the trip?
I'm asking or my own future information, because this is very similar to the itinerary I'd planned for two weeks in that area, and is similar to one that someone else (Progol?) posted, as well as the one Sartoric just did in reverse. She does not in her daily trip report indicate feeling rushed at any point (but did say she might have substituted one night three in the hot humid backwaters for an extra night in Thekkady).
The nice thing about this part of the world is that the drives, many of which are scenic or interesting, do not take up long travel days, making it easier to see more in the brief amount of time most of us have. At least, this was my experience in two trips to the general region.
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Old Feb 4th, 2017, 04:01 PM
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I might take a night from Pondy and add it to Kochi, although I am not fond of one-nighters. I might also move a night from Dambulla to India. I have just found that India is exhausting, and moving slower is better.
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Old Feb 4th, 2017, 09:05 PM
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Thank you, Thursdaysd.
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Old Feb 4th, 2017, 09:27 PM
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India:

Thank you, CaliNurse and thursdays. I am so flattered that you are both hanging in there with me, with my endless questions. CaliNurse, you have become my "India psychologist." I see your point--Tim is fabulous, so why not let him handle it? I didn't realize that the Cochin Marriott is in a poor location, however I do have a weakness for the chain--I can get away with all kinds of obnoxious stuff there, like asking for five towels. Tim suggested a couple of inexpensive Cochin guesthouses, which sound good.

Regarding the itinerary, Tim said that Kochi is worth a day and part of another. When I eliminated the two nights in Munar, he suggested adding one of those nights in Madurai, and another in Pondicherry. I believe, on the day we head to Pondicherry, we will stop in Kumbakonam and Chidambaram, so that would really only leave one full day in Pondicherry. The city of Pondicherry does not look that interesting to me, as it is colonial French. What did you think of Pondicherry? Thursdays, what would you do with the extra time in Kochin, and where would you add the extra night, if I took it away from Sri Lanka?

I imagine that the itinerary is almost there, and it's like choosing between a maple or chocolate glazed donut, either one will do, and it's a matter of personal taste.


Sri Lanka:

Susie, thank you for your concise and helpful information. I just wrote to Kanchana again--I just know he will answer soon. Your Ella hotel looks great, and nice and inexpensive. I will try to find an inexpensive place in Negambo, since I will only be in the room for a few hours.

And a question for anyone who has been to Sri Lanka:
BSL suggested these sites near Ella, on the day I would leave for Sinharaja. Any opinions, or other sites instead, in the vicinity of Ella?

Little Adam's Peak
9 Arch Bridge
Ella Gap
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Old Feb 5th, 2017, 06:47 AM
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I found where we stayed in Negombo the first night after arriving SL at midnight, Serendib Guesthouse

http://www.serendibguesthouse.com/en/

We went to sleep, got up in the morning and had breakfast, left at 10:00am. it was an acceptable place just to sleep. I used their driver to pick us up at the airport as it was less than having Camlo Lanka driver do it. I think the rate was around $35 for the room. I booked directly with Sernedib.

Will you actually be staying in Ella? I stayed there 2 nights. Wanted to hike Little Adam's Peak but I had food poisoning so my husband went by himself for a morning. he told me it was a nice walk.

Heidis Home is In Nuwara Eliya, not Ella.
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Old Feb 5th, 2017, 07:03 PM
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Thanks, susiesan, Heidi's Homesty in Nuwara Eliya and Serendib Guesthouse in Negombo look perfect. Certainly, good enough for me. They will be my first bookings of the trip.

Oh goodness, I got Ella and Nuwara Eliya mixed up. Chamila at BSL wanted me to stay one night in each, but I think it will be fine to spend both nights in Nuwara Eliya. I just found a national park near Nuwara Eliya called Galway's, so perhaps I could stop there for birdwatching.

You story about getting food poisoning prompted me go vegetarian on this trip. We did that on our trip to India, and we had zero problems.

So the tentative Sri Lanka itinerary is as follows:

1 night Negambo
4 nights Dambulla
2 nights Nuwara Eliya
2 nights Waddagala (Sinharaja Forest reserve)
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