Seeking Help With My Sri Lanka And South India Itinerary: Rough Draft #1
Jan 15th, 2017, 04:18 AM
#21
So you actually went on a game drive in Sri Lanka, but did not find the experience pleasant? Thank you.>>
from memory, we went on two, CaliforniaLady. The first was on the day we went to Polonnaruwa, which was followed by a visit to Minnerya; this was the time where we had the deaf and dumb game spotter [actually an excellent guide, once you got used to him] and it was ok until we got to the elephants where we felt very perturbed by the way in which so many vehicles were present and the way in which some of them were positioned which seemed to us downright dangerous.
the second was at Yala; because we had had the previous bad experience we insisted that they did not just chase round with all of the other jeeps pursuing the elusive leopards, and after we had repeated ourselves several times, the penny eventually dropped. Even so there was some chasing around after some poor animal at the end; i don't think we ever worked out what it was.
I don't want to put you off doing a game drive but if you want to avoid what to us appeared to be the worst aspects of this activity, you will need to be very clear about what you want.
from memory, we went on two, CaliforniaLady. The first was on the day we went to Polonnaruwa, which was followed by a visit to Minnerya; this was the time where we had the deaf and dumb game spotter [actually an excellent guide, once you got used to him] and it was ok until we got to the elephants where we felt very perturbed by the way in which so many vehicles were present and the way in which some of them were positioned which seemed to us downright dangerous.
the second was at Yala; because we had had the previous bad experience we insisted that they did not just chase round with all of the other jeeps pursuing the elusive leopards, and after we had repeated ourselves several times, the penny eventually dropped. Even so there was some chasing around after some poor animal at the end; i don't think we ever worked out what it was.
I don't want to put you off doing a game drive but if you want to avoid what to us appeared to be the worst aspects of this activity, you will need to be very clear about what you want.
Jan 15th, 2017, 08:45 AM
#23
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Ann, we had the same spotter - who was very good. Some of the jeeps tried to get the big bull elephants to trumpet by chasing them around. I told our guide we didn't want our driver to of that and he spoke with the driver and it stopped. I think it helped to have our driver speak with him, rather than one of us.
Jan 15th, 2017, 09:32 AM
#24
Hi kathie - I didn't know that. once you caught on, his method of communication was excellent but i did think that it would have been helpful if we'd been told in advance, though perhaps they had tried that and found that people rejected his services.
anyway, I'm glad that you too protested about the way in which some of the drives appeared to be "organised" and that they took notice. The trouble is that for every tourist who objects, there are plenty more who are quite happy with what is happening or feel too shy to speak up.
anyway, I'm glad that you too protested about the way in which some of the drives appeared to be "organised" and that they took notice. The trouble is that for every tourist who objects, there are plenty more who are quite happy with what is happening or feel too shy to speak up.
Jan 15th, 2017, 01:49 PM
#25
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thursdays - You are correct that it would have been insane to leave at 7 AM the first morning in Negambo. It looks like the Dambulla Caves are open until 7 PM, so a 9 AM departure sounds better. Thanks.
Ann and Kathie - Thanks for the interesting dialogue about game drives. I will contact BSL, and unless I can get some assurance that the animals will be treated humanely, I will pass. In any case, what is the name of your sight and hearing impaired guide? Did you book him via BSL? Thank you.
CaliNurse - What a wealth of information, thank you! However, I am most concerned about the Hindu Festival on September 21. Is this like Ramadan, where everything shuts down? Oi vay. Is Tim your contact at India Panorama? That's a great idea to research old trip reports--I only went back a year, but I'll go back further now. And yes, I am traveling alone. My husband doesn't like exotic destinations--he's more of a football watcher kind of guy, but he gives me carte blanche on his AA miles, so I can't complain.
Now that I have a somewhat acceptable itinerary, I have some more specific questions.
Sri Lanka:
1. Has anyone actually been to Sinharaja? It sounds beautiful, but there are supposed to be lots of leeches there.
2. I'm having trouble grasping how big the sites in the Cultural Triangle are. How long did you spend at each of the sites?
3. Awhile back, Coke Smith presented a wonderful trip report on wildlife in Sri Lanka, and he said he spent three days seeing wildlife around Sigiriya. Has anyone here done that, even for less time?
4. I will probably have three hours in Colombo on my last day. What do you suggest I do?
South India:
For the Kochi - Kumarokom - Munar - Madurai - Chettinad - Tanjore - Pondicherry - Mababalipurm route, what are you favorite/must sees along this route? I'll take suggestions for well-known as well as obscure sites.
Thank you!
Ann and Kathie - Thanks for the interesting dialogue about game drives. I will contact BSL, and unless I can get some assurance that the animals will be treated humanely, I will pass. In any case, what is the name of your sight and hearing impaired guide? Did you book him via BSL? Thank you.
CaliNurse - What a wealth of information, thank you! However, I am most concerned about the Hindu Festival on September 21. Is this like Ramadan, where everything shuts down? Oi vay. Is Tim your contact at India Panorama? That's a great idea to research old trip reports--I only went back a year, but I'll go back further now. And yes, I am traveling alone. My husband doesn't like exotic destinations--he's more of a football watcher kind of guy, but he gives me carte blanche on his AA miles, so I can't complain.
Now that I have a somewhat acceptable itinerary, I have some more specific questions.
Sri Lanka:
1. Has anyone actually been to Sinharaja? It sounds beautiful, but there are supposed to be lots of leeches there.
2. I'm having trouble grasping how big the sites in the Cultural Triangle are. How long did you spend at each of the sites?
3. Awhile back, Coke Smith presented a wonderful trip report on wildlife in Sri Lanka, and he said he spent three days seeing wildlife around Sigiriya. Has anyone here done that, even for less time?
4. I will probably have three hours in Colombo on my last day. What do you suggest I do?
South India:
For the Kochi - Kumarokom - Munar - Madurai - Chettinad - Tanjore - Pondicherry - Mababalipurm route, what are you favorite/must sees along this route? I'll take suggestions for well-known as well as obscure sites.
Thank you!
Jan 15th, 2017, 02:10 PM
#26
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Our driver knew all the best guides everywhere and so arranged them, including our hearing-impaired game guide. He was not sight-impaired. Because BSL doesn't own the vehicles or employ the drivers or guides, you'll have to make your request via your driver to the driver of the safari vehicle. It never hurts to say something to BSL in advance as well.
Jan 15th, 2017, 03:09 PM
#27
For my visit to Colombo see:
https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ncool-colombo/
I was not as impressed as I expected with Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura. The sites are quite large, but also very ruinous.
I went to Coorg and Coonoor, not Munar, so can't help too much with that section. I think all the sites I saw in Tamil Nadu are well known.
https://mytimetotravel.wordpress.com...ncool-colombo/
I was not as impressed as I expected with Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura. The sites are quite large, but also very ruinous.
I went to Coorg and Coonoor, not Munar, so can't help too much with that section. I think all the sites I saw in Tamil Nadu are well known.
Jan 15th, 2017, 03:29 PM
#28
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Three hours is not long for Colombo . I would suggest you head for Galle Face Green and the eponymous hotel. Then maybe head for The Pettah, the huge and manic Tamil market.
Most of the sites, like sirigiya , Anaurahadpur and Polonaruwa need the best part of half a day apiece. Quite enjoyed Polonaruwa but Anurahadpura didn't do a great deal for me., especially as it was Avery long drive to get there. I don't think you need to do both. My TR is @ http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-and-curry.cfm
Ritigala was well worth the effort.
Most of the sites, like sirigiya , Anaurahadpur and Polonaruwa need the best part of half a day apiece. Quite enjoyed Polonaruwa but Anurahadpura didn't do a great deal for me., especially as it was Avery long drive to get there. I don't think you need to do both. My TR is @ http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...-and-curry.cfm
Ritigala was well worth the effort.
Jan 15th, 2017, 04:52 PM
#29
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Will write more soon, but wanted to put your mind to immediate rest . No oy vey needed--l'chaim is more like it! it will be good to have part if trip coincide with a festival!!! I was in India during Christmas one yr (remember, Kerala has a large Catholic population) and during Diwali another . Haven't been during Navratri but uf it is typical if Hindu if festivals, it will be even more colorful and lively than usual (which is saying a lot!) You might want to google about this particular festival--it occurs several times each year. Afaik, nothing shuts down, but I'll write to a Tamil friend to ask.
Jan 15th, 2017, 10:50 PM
#30
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Kathie - Thanks for explaining how the BSL driver works to find guides. If you remember the name of the hearing-impaired game guide, or your contact person at BSL, please let me know.
thursdays - I just read your blog on Colombo. That's wonderful that you were able to visit where your father was stationed. Ruinous ruins in the Cultural Triangle? I better thoroughly read the history before setting out, so I can understand what I am seeing. Coorg and Coonoor look beautiful, but too far north for my itinerary. Oh well, maybe next time? Thanks again.
Crellston - The stop in Colombo is just an afterthought on the way to the airport. I always like big, gritty cities in small doses. Thanks for the tip about Ritigala, I was wavering about it.
CaliNurse - Good to know the Festival will enhance, not detract from my trip. We went to a wedding in Varanasi, and it was quite an experience. Lots of dancing and music. Thanks.
thursdays - I just read your blog on Colombo. That's wonderful that you were able to visit where your father was stationed. Ruinous ruins in the Cultural Triangle? I better thoroughly read the history before setting out, so I can understand what I am seeing. Coorg and Coonoor look beautiful, but too far north for my itinerary. Oh well, maybe next time? Thanks again.
Crellston - The stop in Colombo is just an afterthought on the way to the airport. I always like big, gritty cities in small doses. Thanks for the tip about Ritigala, I was wavering about it.
CaliNurse - Good to know the Festival will enhance, not detract from my trip. We went to a wedding in Varanasi, and it was quite an experience. Lots of dancing and music. Thanks.
Jan 15th, 2017, 11:52 PM
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forgot to mention on your 2nd day you can easily go to both Dambulla caves and Sigiriya..they both are nearby..Also as you leaving from Negambo at 7 am you have plenty of time for this..
Also don't stay in dambulla.. For Sigiriya, polonnaruwa, mihinthale and safari the best base is HABARANA.. So stay there..
if you go sigiriya on 2md Sep day you can easily go ritigala on 5th Sep..xxx
Also don't stay in dambulla.. For Sigiriya, polonnaruwa, mihinthale and safari the best base is HABARANA.. So stay there..
if you go sigiriya on 2md Sep day you can easily go ritigala on 5th Sep..xxx
Jan 16th, 2017, 08:11 AM
#32
Most of the sites, like sirigiya , Anaurahadpur and Polonaruwa need the best part of half a day apiece. Quite enjoyed Polonaruwa but Anurahadpura didn't do a great deal for me., especially as it was Avery long drive to get there. I don't think you need to do both.>>
We didn't go to Anuradhapura, as we reckoned it was just too far, and we only had 3 nights at Dambulla so something had to go; otherwise I would say that Crelston is right on the money - you need to allow at last half a day for each sight plus the time to get there of course. you are going at the same time of year that we went and I can tell you that it's hot - we weren't able to spend that long outside our air-conditioned van on the first day, which was spent at Polonaruwa. The site there is very big, and there is also a museum [blessedly air-conditioned] Also you have to take your shoes off to go inside temples and my feet couldn't stand it so I stayed in the van. What I wish I had done is to buy a hat from one of the vendors there - they were quite nice and very cheap.
As for Sigiriya, it's quite a climb. Take water with you as there is none up there. Make sure that your driver organises a guide for you and that you agree the cost first. Then if there is a problem you can ask your driver to sort it out.
After each trip our driver took us to a local restaurant which served both western style and Sri lankan food - the latter was almost alway better but actually some places do great toasted sandwiches if that's what you want.
We didn't go to Anuradhapura, as we reckoned it was just too far, and we only had 3 nights at Dambulla so something had to go; otherwise I would say that Crelston is right on the money - you need to allow at last half a day for each sight plus the time to get there of course. you are going at the same time of year that we went and I can tell you that it's hot - we weren't able to spend that long outside our air-conditioned van on the first day, which was spent at Polonaruwa. The site there is very big, and there is also a museum [blessedly air-conditioned] Also you have to take your shoes off to go inside temples and my feet couldn't stand it so I stayed in the van. What I wish I had done is to buy a hat from one of the vendors there - they were quite nice and very cheap.
As for Sigiriya, it's quite a climb. Take water with you as there is none up there. Make sure that your driver organises a guide for you and that you agree the cost first. Then if there is a problem you can ask your driver to sort it out.
After each trip our driver took us to a local restaurant which served both western style and Sri lankan food - the latter was almost alway better but actually some places do great toasted sandwiches if that's what you want.
Jan 16th, 2017, 08:20 AM
#33
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We didn't get to Anuradhapura as we were there during the war and there was a recent bombing. BSL advised against going, and I gladly took their word for it. We loved Polonnaruwa and had a fabulous guide there who really knew his stuff. We typically study up about the sites we are going to visit, but very little is available in the West about the historic sites in Sri Lanka. Sri Lanka has about 3000 years of recorded history. We were glad to find that the museum at Polonnaruwa had excellent books about the historic sites.
Sorry, I don't have the names of any of our guides. Our excellent driver was named Aslam. I expect each driver has their favorite guides.
Sorry, I don't have the names of any of our guides. Our excellent driver was named Aslam. I expect each driver has their favorite guides.
Jan 16th, 2017, 09:54 PM
#34
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CalifLady--I heard from Tamil friend. During the festival (and other times) banks close only on weekends. ATMs there, as here, are always "open.'
Shops will be open, as people purchase things to celebrate the festival. Some temples will be more crowded during the festival, in particular those dedicated to the goddess who is celebrated /honored at this time--Durga. The last two days of the nine days are most important--you'll be home by then.
I also found via internet that in Tamil Nadu, this festival is celebrated with women making small dolls.
If you're in the temple, or in the streets, do be careful if it looks very crowded!!
Re money, had happy message from friend today who is there. ATM limit per transaction was just increased to 10,000 rupees=about $140. See my new forum post about this.
Shops will be open, as people purchase things to celebrate the festival. Some temples will be more crowded during the festival, in particular those dedicated to the goddess who is celebrated /honored at this time--Durga. The last two days of the nine days are most important--you'll be home by then.
I also found via internet that in Tamil Nadu, this festival is celebrated with women making small dolls.
If you're in the temple, or in the streets, do be careful if it looks very crowded!!
Re money, had happy message from friend today who is there. ATM limit per transaction was just increased to 10,000 rupees=about $140. See my new forum post about this.
Jan 16th, 2017, 10:26 PM
#35
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Ann - Thank you again for all your help. It seems like Anuradhapura was not exactly a trip highlight for thursdays or Crellston. I do like the idea of spending four nights in Dambulla, so I may go anyway. Alternatively, I will research spending more time seeing wildlife around Sigiriya. I'm a little concerned about the burning feet you experienced in September. I'm wondering if I can wear some cheap socks, maybe in a beige color. Would anyone notice or care?
Kathie - I'm going to ask BSL if Aslam can drive me, even thirteen years later. It sounds like you used a fair amount of guides on your Sri Lanka trip. I didn't know that the guides are arranged through the drivers--thanks for the tip.
CaliNurse - That's great news that all will be open during the festivals. I don't mind the crowds, as I'm a good people watcher. During our 2009 trip to India, I was amazed at the gorgeous sari colors, and bangle bracelets that the women wore. Thanks for checking for me.
Kathie - I'm going to ask BSL if Aslam can drive me, even thirteen years later. It sounds like you used a fair amount of guides on your Sri Lanka trip. I didn't know that the guides are arranged through the drivers--thanks for the tip.
CaliNurse - That's great news that all will be open during the festivals. I don't mind the crowds, as I'm a good people watcher. During our 2009 trip to India, I was amazed at the gorgeous sari colors, and bangle bracelets that the women wore. Thanks for checking for me.
Jan 17th, 2017, 03:36 AM
#36
I'm a little concerned about the burning feet you experienced in September. I'm wondering if I can wear some cheap socks, maybe in a beige color. Would anyone notice or care?>>
probably not, we weren't bright enough to have taken any with us!
You could ask BSL to suggest something else in the area.
probably not, we weren't bright enough to have taken any with us!
You could ask BSL to suggest something else in the area.
Jan 17th, 2017, 07:00 AM
#37
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Usually, bare feet are required in temples, but do ask BSL.
It's been a decade sine we were there - I wonder if Aslam is still driving. Yes, many sites it was useful to have a local guide for just a few dollars.
It's been a decade sine we were there - I wonder if Aslam is still driving. Yes, many sites it was useful to have a local guide for just a few dollars.
Jan 17th, 2017, 10:18 PM
#38
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Thank you, Ann and Kathie, for going the extra mile with my trip planning. I read in an old thread here (2011) that someone suggested putting masking tape on the bottom of one's feet when going into temples. I'll ask BSL.
I decided to keep my itinerary as I updated it on January 14, which will include Anuradhapura . As Kathie says, the temples in the cultural triangle are truly unique. I just did a search for cultural triangle history books from my local library, and there were none. I'll keep looking.
I'll let you know, Kathie, if Aslam is still around.
I decided to keep my itinerary as I updated it on January 14, which will include Anuradhapura . As Kathie says, the temples in the cultural triangle are truly unique. I just did a search for cultural triangle history books from my local library, and there were none. I'll keep looking.
I'll let you know, Kathie, if Aslam is still around.
Jan 19th, 2017, 08:06 PM
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Kathie, Aslam is no longer driving. Here's part of the response I received from BSL:
"... Unfortunately Aslam is no more with us, but we will provide one of the best drivers for you."
Does anyone have a good driver that they used with BSL in the last couple of years? I would prefer someone who comes highly recommended, as he would have contacts with the best guides, etc.
Also, BSL said they will give me a total quote for driver, car, and hotel upon me sending my itinerary. However, I have not started looking at hotels at all. Has it been your experience to get a separate quote for the car and driver, and another for the hotels? Or is it a combined quote?
Sorry to sound so inept. I have never used a travel agency before to this extent, so this is all new to me.
"... Unfortunately Aslam is no more with us, but we will provide one of the best drivers for you."
Does anyone have a good driver that they used with BSL in the last couple of years? I would prefer someone who comes highly recommended, as he would have contacts with the best guides, etc.
Also, BSL said they will give me a total quote for driver, car, and hotel upon me sending my itinerary. However, I have not started looking at hotels at all. Has it been your experience to get a separate quote for the car and driver, and another for the hotels? Or is it a combined quote?
Sorry to sound so inept. I have never used a travel agency before to this extent, so this is all new to me.
