We are planning our first trip to Kyoto at the end of Oct 2002 and would like to stay at one of these 2 famous ryokans. Does anyone have any opinion as to which one of these 2 ryokans is 'better'? Also, should we consider staying at the Hiiragiya Bekkan (the cheaper annex) instead?

Both are fabulous and in the same location. I've heard the food is a bit better at Hiiagiya. We stayed at Sumiya, which is next door and equally old and wonderful, maybe a little cheaper.

I've only stay at the Hiiragiya and it was wonderful. The Tawa... is right across the street but I've never stay there. The food at the Hiiragiya was wonderful, we stay there for 2 nights and they offered different dishes each night. The average dinner comprises of about 10 courses and the Japanese breakfast is also a feast. The suite no. 33 or 34, 35 are the best!

Thanks lcuy and Hanuman! It was just the info I was hoping for. Getting the inside scoop on the best suites was a real bonus. If you have any personal tips on how best to enjoy Kyoto, that would be great too! We plan to spend 3 or 4 days there.

Liz- Lucky you- You are going at a time when the weather should be gorgeous. Many of the Temples have night lightings at that time. Kyomizudera is a good one to visit at night. Have your hotel check to make sure it is lit up the night you want to visit. We took a taxi the one night it wasn't! <BR><BR>You'll find a lot of interesting Autumn foods being served..I highly recommend taking a soft cooler to bring perishable snacks home! customs will give you weird looks, but your family and coworkers will be thrilled.

Thanks again, lcuy! We're really excited about the trip. It sounds like it will be a wonderful photo opportunity. My main resources at the moment are Frommers Japan and Eye Witness Guide to Japan and neither of the 2 suggested visiting Kyomizu at night. It sounds absolutely wonderful! We're not expecting the weather to be too cold then. Am I right to say that a light jacket should suffice?

We were there Oct 28-Nov 1 and it was sunny & warm in the day, and light jacket at night. We had some brief rain. I always travel with a lightweight wool shawl (cheap pashmina) that I can stick in the bottom of my purse. I use it on the plane as a blanket, and under or over my jacket, or around my neck like a muffler for extra warmth. Only used it on the plane that trip! I like Gateways to Japan, Japan Solo, and (shhhh) Frommers for my Japan guides. Kyoto is such a wonderful town...You'll never run out of new sights. Its very easy to get around on foot or on the frequent buses. The daily bus passes that are sold in some of the tain newstands are a good deal. 500 yen per day vs 200 yen per ride. you can buy a few days worth, and activate a new one each morning. The taxis are reasonable too, as the city is so compact.

Bonjour Liz,<BR><BR>It is not getting very cold in Kyoto before the end of November, so a light jacket should be enough. <BR><BR>In addition to your guidebooks, I suggest you read, and take along with you<BR><BR>"Kyoto - A Contemplative Guide", by G. Mosher (Tuttle, isbn 0-8048-1294-2) a wonderful guide of the main Kyoto temples and monuments presented from a historical and cultural perspective. <BR><BR>"Old Kyoto - A Guide to Traditional Shops, Restaurants, and Inns", by D. Durston (Kodansha, isbn 0-87011-757-2). The title says it all ... A hardback version exists as "The Living Tradionts of Old Kyoto", with better pictures but fewer addresses (Kodansha isbn 4-7700-1870-3)<BR><BR>"The Gardens of Japan" by T. Itoh (Kodansha isbn 4-7700-2321-9 - hardback) is a great introduction for an understanding of the temple and private gardens of Kyoto, although it does not only center on that city.

Thank you lcuy and Florence! It looks like I have a panel of experts on Kyoto to help me with my planning. I'm glad to hear that the weather will probably be mild at the end of Oct. A little rain won't bother us I think. Will look out for the books you've suggested, Florence. Which websites did you find most useful? <BR><BR>Also, can you pls provide some advice on the transport passes? We will probably purchase a 7 day JR Rail pass but will be in Japan 8 or 9 days, the last 2 days in Kyoto and possibly Osaka. We will also need to catch the train to Kansai airport. Should we just get one of those 1 or 2 day western Honshu passes? Am a little confused by the myriad of local and regional passes available (they were listed on the JNTO website). <BR><BR>Last but not least, did you have a favourite restaurant in Kyoto and has anyone tried Misogi-gawa a French Kaiseki restaurant listed in Frommers? Frommers says that it could be "the culinary highlight of your trip"! Pls let me know if it is worth the USD100 - 250 for its set dinners!<BR><BR>Many thanks!

Liz,<BR><BR>re. websites: specifically for Kyoto, or rest of Japan too ?<BR>For Kyoto, look Kyoto Visitor's Guide at http://www.kyotoguide.com/index/index.html<BR><BR><BR>Don't forget to pick a paper copy at the TIC (in Kansai airport or in Kyoto itself. Full of suggestions and the maps are particularly good.<BR><BR>re. train passes: the JR railpass is a bargain only if you plan to make at least a return trip from Tokyo to Kyoto or Osaka. Otherwise, take a local pass. The danger of railpass is that in wanting to maximise your profit, you end up spending more time on the train and checking in and out of hotels than sightseeing ;-)<BR><BR>re. favorite restaurants: The only times I eat kaiseki ryori is when I'm invited by Japanese friends. My favorite restaurants are small places where the Japanese go to grab a quick and cheap bite. I usually enter the first place displaying something appetising in the window ...