Hey, Dogster, one of the possibilities for this year's Asia trip is a return to Nepal. I noted your recommendation of this place on another thread. I've looked at their website and have read various reviews (which are mixed). Would you please give me your assessment of Dwarika's? Also, any comments on its location?

When I was last in Kathmandu (1994, I think) the air pollution was terrible - worst than LA used to be! We stayed at the Yak and Yeti, which I loved, especially the location. The one downside was the air pollution.

I had understood from someone else that the Hyatt was a bit out of town, so the air was better. Any comments on the Hyatt and it's location?

Many thanks!

Kathie- I stayed at the Hyatt last month. It is a bit out of town, but they run a shuttle van several times a day to various points in town (You need to get back to the hotel on your own). The Hyatt is a really beautiful property-a true 5 star hotel. The service is good. There are 2 restaurants-one is Italian, the other continental. The air pollution was not too bad anywhere in Khatmandu when we were there-far better than what we experienced in Bangkok. We enjoyed Khatmandu-the sites, the people, ect.

Many thanks, shelly. Kathmandu pollution not as bad as Bangkok? Wow, that is a change! I'm glad to hear that Kathmandu's air quality is getting better.

Kathie-It just ocurred to me that the pollution might have been better than usual when we were there because there was a gas shortage and many cars and motorcycles were on line for up to 8 hours waiting to get gas, so they where not driving around. Maybe someone else can write about the pollution under normal conditions.

Hi,
Yes of course the location of Dwarika's is not so better.But it is also true that we need hotels in different places that's why it is special recognize than others,am I right?
Cheers
Peter
http://www.omegatreks.com/index.php

Hi Kathie,
I'm in Panjim, Goa.

I'm happy to answer your question: but more importantly to apologise for upsetting you week or so back - I've been on the move and out of E mail contact and it's been playing on my mind. I know I have a direct way of talking and sometimes the Australian sense of humour gets lost in translation. You're SUCH an asset to this board and I'm just a new boy - so, I hope you'll take this public apology [and a big cyber-hug].

Now: Dwarika's.

Last November I spent 8 days at the Hyatt [club floor] then followed it with another 8 at Dwarika's. Location-wise they are much of a muchness. Both on the edge of town. The Hyatt is within easy walking distance of Boudnath - one of my favorite places in KTM, Dwarika's is within walking distance of Pashupatinath. Two wonderful places. I went every day. Boudnath is wonderful late afternoon.

Hyatt [I advise the Club rooms] is exactly what you'd expect from a Hyatt. Great service, lots of space, absolutely no problems - but it's a large and consequently kinda anonymous hotel. Even on the Club Floor.

[There's a queue here for the 'puter - I'm gonna have to be brief]

Dwarikas is, as you see on the net, full of lovely local wooden windows, friendly staff, and no so impersonal. The restaurant isn't great, but it's more than serviceable. The rooms are large, quirky and very comfortable indeed - and you'll feel much less anonymous.

[Damn, damn, the natives are getting restless - I'll have to continue this ;later today..]

Dogster, I certainly accept your apology and gladly send you a cyber-hug. We can all get a bit testy at times - myself included. You have lots of valuable info to offer and I am glad you are willing to share that information.

Thanks for the information on the Hyatt vs. Dwarika's. I'll be interested in anything else you have to add. I also loved Boudnath and one of the reasons to stay at the Hyatt would be the great access to Boudnath at different times of the day. I've also thought about dividing our time between two different hotels.

I always prefer to stay in the Club rooms, as I do find it makes for a more personalized stay, so I'm sorry to hear that even the club at the Hyatt seemed impersonal.

As far as Dwarika's is concerned, one of the reviews on trip advisor indicated that the first room they had was tiny and dark, paper-thin walls, etc. The second room was lovely. I'm guessing if you get a higher priced room, you can avoid that. Any info on room types, etc?

Enjoy Goa!

Hi Kathie:
I was in a bit of a rush yesterday. To explain fully: The Club Rooms at the Hyatt are recommended - maybe 'impersonal' is not the word... maybe 'professional' is the right one. But, really, it's probably a bit much to ask them to become my latest best friend over the period of a week. So don't hesitate to book there - excellent health club, GREAT food in their top restaurant, lots of lovely nibbles in the evening in the Club Lounge.

About the only issue is the plague of pigeons that roost outside your windows on the top floor at night. But those same pigeons spend the rest of the day at Boudnath - so they're probably Buddhist pigeons - therefore blessed.

Dwarika's and the Hyatt are worlds apart - both perfectly fine hotel experiences - I haven't the time right now to cruise Trip Advisor for the reviews - but tiny, dark, paper-thin walls doesn't sound remotely like the Dwarika's I know.

There's not a lot of variation in the rates as far as I remember - most rooms are in the $200 - 220 a day range - I've stayed there three times all up, each room was absolutely fine. Once in the central block in the middle of the courtyard - about 8 rooms, once off to the left in the main entrance wing and last time on the top floor, right above the main entrance - from memory Room 401. The latter was the best. Lots of light, huge bathroom .
I wouldn't feel any hesitation in staying in either hotel again. Matter of fact I'll be back in KTM in May - haven't decided which yet.

Pollutrion is a fact of life in KTM. Strangely I wasn't overly aware of it last stay - but I spent the whole time at either Boudnath or Pashupatinath. [Ahhh - and the things I've seen on my repated visits - I feel sad for those tourist who are whisked thru on their guided tours for an hour, or less each time. Repeated visits reward.]The time you'll really notice it is when yopu come down from the hills - then - arghhhhhh

But you know that..

I stayed 3 nights at the Yak and Yeti for old times sake about a year ago. It's convenient to Thamel and Durbar Square, as you know, but it's ratty, old, the food is dire. You can do better.

We can talk about how to zoom around closer to the moment - there's a few tips I can offer - notable DON'T catch the so-called cabs outside either hotel. You'll be charged an outrageous rate. Who knows what they do to their meters - but somehow they show rates about 4 times what an ordinary passing cab will show. Don't fall for it.

Here's dogster's mega tip for the mountains outside KTM. Don't bother with Nagarkot or Dhulikel if you're out of the viewing season - check this out:

www.villasrilanka.com

yes, I know it seems strange, but Hans Hoefer has a property in Phulbari, about 30 minuites up-hill from Dhulikel.]

Unique.

If it interests you I'll describe it more later. I spent an extra-ordinary three days there. If you want the real-deal, this is it.

I'll be in only sporadic net contact after Saturday for another couple of weeks - I'm in the Indian Ocean. In a few days I'll be on a deserted island in the Lakdashweep area. Not too many 'puters there.

Thanks for all of the additional information, Dogster. I have plenty of time to plan before our October trip. I did look at the website for the place up in the mountains (your link on this post doesn't take me right to it, I'll find it again later). I would like to hear what you have to say about it.

It was many years ago I was last in Nepal. I will have to think about what I want to do/see this time around. Last time, I hired a driver which was very helpful. I laid out where I wanted to go and he got us there... much easier than taxis. I'll be interested in any recommendtaions you have.

We are both very interested in Buddhism and Buddhist arts.

A deserted island in the Indian Ocean - sounds lovely.

Dogster, I'm topping this post to see if you have anything you'd like to add about Dwarika's or the Kathmandu Valley.

Hi Kathie: well, I'm sitting in Room 308 right now. The one you want is 408 but that's being [allegedly] maintained right now.

The smoke from the Friday night Nepali B.B.Q. is filtering across the courtyard below me - smelling, for all the world, just like the cremations at Pashupatinath, not far down the road.

I've been here for a week on their rather nifty off-season rate [$670 plus 10% service tax for 7 nights], nursing the considerable by-products of my run-in with the Great Dane and the Ganges - and, I guess, the accumulated body drain of two months in assorted bits of India.

I've barely stirred from the room - a particularly explosive form of gangetic lurgie has seen to that. But, life has moved on - now I'm eating and building up my strength. Tomorrow I move to the Hyatt. Not because there's anything particularly wrong here - I'm just bored with it. I was here for a week just last December. I know the room service menu by heart.

I was at the Hyatt for a couple of nights ten days ago. The Club Floor is exactly the same. Not a great deal of 'Welcome Back Mr. Dogster!' - in fact, none at all - but it's all fine. I wasn't much in the mood at the time.

The staff at Dwarika's at least appeared to have some recognition of my face. But then, they don't get rotated to a different floor of the hotel every month.

Which hotel are you leaning towards, Kathie? And for how long? You'll know you're in Kathmandu if you stay at Dwarika's - but the food and beds are WAY better at the Hyatt. Right now, fresh, clean food, an airy, light room and a soft bed are more important to me than life itself.

Like I said before, they are just two different experiences.

Thanks for your comments, Dogster. I'm glad to hear that you are healing from your run-in (err - no pun intended) with the great dane and the Ganges.

We'll be in Kathmandu for 8 nights. I love the look of Dwarika's, but the beds at the Hyatt look more comfortable than Dwarika's even in the photos. I guess I'm leaning toward the Hyatt today... I've also thought about dividing our time, but I'd prefer not to waste time changing hotels.

When you are feeling up to it, I'd love to hear about your adventures in India.

Kathie, a couple more thoughts while I'm here:

In high season 2008/9 the Hyatt Club Floor is $155 [plus 23%] a night incl. breakfast and evening snacks.
Dwarikas is $230 [plus 23%] no breakfast.

The air seems much fresher at the Hyatt... but that may all be an illusion. There's a lot of space around the Hyatt. Dwarikas is an inward looking structure.
The rooms are much bigger at Dwarika's. Much darker tho', because of those cool looking Heritage windows.

There is a pigeon plague in the evening outside the top [Club] Floor of Hyatt.
At Dwarika's they want you keep the windows closed because of [never, ever visible] monkeys.

Dwarika's is a rather quirky, family-run hotel which is a highly successful unique Nepali product. They are not going to bend to your needs in the slightest - they have absolutely no need to.

The Hyatt Club Floor is all about service. Kinda distant, but service, just the same. Soft beds. Let me say that again: SOFT beds.

Dogster, thanks for the additional details. On the Hyatt site the Club floor is $180 for two people in a Club King. They also list a Club Deluxe King for $200. (Any idea what the difference between the two types is? Is the deluxe larger?) Since you are seeing lower prices, I think I may email the Kathmandu Hyatt directly. I think the soft beds have convinced me!

I'll be there tomorrow - I'll check for you. Deluxe is certainly about 20% bigger.

I work off the Hyatt site as well - but it does occur to me that I'm checking the SINGLE prices. Either way, $ for $, I think you get a much better deal Hyatt vs Dwarikas.

$50 a night extra for those handsome Nepali windows and authentic hard Nepali bed is a lot.