Let’s begin by stating that the entire area had received torrential rains for many months. This had the inevitable result of reducing game viewing, and in some places access. That said it was still a remarkably good trip. Not least because we discovered a new camp which given better weather should provide another very good alternative.

Unbelievably the Air Botswana flight left and arrived on time, in accordance with there usual practice we were well fed on nuts and biltong. (Is this the worst flight in the world)?

On arrival at Maun we joined our plane to begin our flight to Linyanti Bush Camp, at this stage we were not made aware that the airstrip was closed. We landed at Chobe airstrip (the one used by WS in their Linyanti concession); we then had a roughly 3 hour journey through the NG15 concession on the transit route. After about 2 hours we entered Chobe National Park, no gates, and continued onwards. We had arranged to meet with another vehicle containing our traveling companion (Wendy Langley) and Beks the owner. We stopped at the park campsite for early sundowners (which for those wishing to rough it is in a magnificent setting). Onwards to camp, as most of you are not aware of too much detail of this camp I will be a bit more expansive than normal.
It is in a private concession north of Chobe NP in an area that was known as the Chobe Enclave. (I cannot find a map that pinpoints its exact location).
The camp sit overlooks the Linyanti Marsh plains which stretch as far as the eye can see towards Namibia. The camp consists of 6 large tents each with a lot of space, flush toilets, gas powered shower and sufficient area for storage and sleeping. The tents all have windows (shade netting) overlooking the Linyanti Marshes. The main area is similar in style to Somalisa and is furnished very simply with comfy sofas and interesting old furniture.

Food ( important to some) is of the very highest standard and is as well thought out and presented as at Somalisa i.e. about the best you can get without being pretentious.

The staff are amongst the best fun and most knowledgeable we have ever met (Beks comes up trumps again).

As explained above the water levels were very high it was the first time in 20 years that the river had flowed between the Kwando to Linyanti and on to the Chobe. This made the marsh area virtually inaccessible; we tried once and got stuck.

Having seen pictures of the marsh plains in the dry season (teeming with game) this was a little disappointing. Given these limitations we spent a lot of drives inland in the Chobe National Park; this area is clearly not regularly on the tourist trail. In terms of animals we saw Elephant mostly lone bulls, Kudu, Impala, and most impressively a short glimpse of a Common Duiker (only our second ever sighting). We also took a day trip to the Savute Marsh where we added Zebra, Giraffe, and Wildebeest etc to our game count. On this trip we bumped into a couple who we met on the light aircraft transfer, they were staying at the Orient Express Camp (there are no concessions in the Savute area) it is open to everybody. They said they had been having a quiet day, having only seen Wild Dog on a kill and Caracal in daylight; they were most disappointed that they had not seen Lions!
We were not so fortunate, but nevertheless had a great if not long day.

BIRDING WAS ANOTHER THING ALLTOGETHER.

We had at least two memorable firsts a Racquet Tailed Roller and a Long Crested Eagle, together with many types of Beeater, Owls and Raptors, and a Carmine Beeater accompanied drive. But best of all a flock of Cattle Egret of at least 5,000.

In summary a very different place, probably best visited in the dry season, unless you are a keen birder. The most appealing factor is the camp and the enthusiasm and knowledge of the staff, this will become like Somalisa a great addition to wildlife viewing and having a great time.

We were forced into using Savute airstrip for our flight to Lebala as Wilderness had banned the use of Chobe airstrip for non-Wilderness customers (how ecological).
We did not mind as this gave us the chance to have a quick look around, Savute an area we will surely return too.

We intend to be a lot briefer about Kwando.

Unfortunately the Lebala airstrip was flooded so we had to land at Lagoon; this meant a nice long game drive down to Lebala. Our assigned guide was Spencer, which for those who know him meant we were in for a jolly good time. We arrived to a warm welcome at Lebala some 3 hours later; Alwyn is still there happy and smiling. The camp will be refurbished by the end of April early May. We looked at the plans for the new tents and heartily approve let’s hope the prices do not go up too much. Good news for those with batteries, charging facilities will be contained in each tent.

There followed 4 days of marvellous game viewing and birding.

Now on to Lagoon where Charles was to be our guide (they do treat us very well!).

The thing we noticed at Lagoon was the far more friendly atmosphere than during our previous visits; this is down to some excellent new management.

OK only 4 game drives here so we saw very little other than the new 3 male Cheetah coalition, and the Wild Dogs (3 out of 4 drives). There is nothing left to add, bloody marvellous.

STILL AWAITING AN AARDVARK.

WE WILL RETURN AT CHRISTMAS

Your outstanding pictures and your description of excessive rains don't go together. Lucky for you! Or rather than luck, it just goes to show how Africa delights regardless of circumstances. A good guide helps too.

If wild dog on a kill and caracal in daylight was a quiet day for the Orient Express Camp group, I wonder what a busy day was!

You too had excellent viewing. The statement “only 4 game drives here so we saw very little other than the new 3 male Cheetah coalition, and the Wild Dogs (3 out of 4 drives). There is nothing left to add, bloody marvelous” says it all. Glad it was a good trip.

Lynn mentioned photos but I don’t see a link. Did you post those separately?

Never mind about the photo link. I just found it. Going to look at them now.

Thanks for the excellent report, sniktawk!

Very glad to hear about in-tent charging ability at Lebala. That will be a lot more convenient, and it will also let my re-chargeable CPAP battery get a bit more juice when I'm there in July. Any other upgrade details that you know about?

Just to clear up the rains bit, it did not rain whilst we were there apart from two short heavy showers, the heavy rains were apparently in January and February.

The Lebala upgrade will include new tents the same size but similar in sytle to Little Kwara i.e. more light, entrance via stoop and sliding doors. Some changes to communal area will also be undertaken notably moving the breakfast and evening "campfire" area. No doubt this will please the "complainers" as there will be less zips to fail etc.

As for the Orient Express folk, who knows as we used to say in Yorkshire "there's nowt as strange as folk" !

Thanks, snik, even if I don't speak Yorks. I don't care one way or the other about zippers (as long as my own isn't inadvertently left open). While I am pleased to have in-tent charging, it would be nice if lanterns were still the only nighttime light source in the bedroom.

Ken's reference to Air Botswana - for anyone reading this: DO NOT check in your bags in Maun for your final destination via JNB. I actually blame the JNB baggage handling section for our missed baggage last time and that arrived nearly a week later!

Hari,
I have checked my bags from Maun via JNB to Heathrow twice in the last six months and they arrived when I did. Having said that, I'm less nervous about my bag when I'm going home. I always pack a complete set of safari wear in my hand luggage on the outward journey and am always very relieved to see my bag arriving at JNB and then Maun. Air travel these days is no fun,that is until you fly with the young pilots in the delta!
Jan

Hi Jan,

I guess it's hit or miss! My two small bags made the transfer, while my folks lost all their bags. Between Air Botswana, JNB baggage handling and Emirates - something went amiss. However, Air Bots probably had nothing to do with it. It's one of the other two.