I have always read the postings on this site, but never felt the need to participate until now. Just back from a fabulous adventure in Morocco. Thomas Hollowell of Journey Beyond helped me plan my itinerary and delivered more than promised. But the best thing he did for us was engage our driver/guide, Naim Souhel. He guided us from Casablanca to Marrakech showing us all the wonderful sites, mountains, desert, and people along the way. I cannot say enough how wonderful he was to us and hope that many of you will contact me for his contact information. So to begin:

Day One, Casablanca: Only overnight here. Stayed at the over-the-top wonderful Hyatt Regency. A hotel driver picked us up and was all professional and polite until a small car driven by a young woman just stopped in the road in front of us, blocking our progress. She was engaged in conversation with her passenger, paying no attention to the traffic lining up behind her. Finally, our driver blew the horn just once. She immediately responded with an obscene gesture to him. Wow did he lose it! Went into a rant of "See this! This is why women should not be allowed to drive!" Walked over to the Medina; not worth the walk compared to Medinas in Fes and Marrakech. Mostly modern merchandise. Only place in Morocco that I did not feel completely comfortable and welcome. Greeted in the morning by our driver, Naim, to begin our exploration of this wonderful country.

Day Two to Fes: Really = rain & cold in Morocco? And Friday is not the day to tour Mekenes Medinah. Our driver, Naim Souhel, found a local guide for the prison telling us to not believe everything he said. Tour was fabulous! 40,000 Christian "pirates" held in the tunnels to build the wall & city. Eerie/fascinating. Climbed up stairs and over planks up to the city of Fes (the poor guys carrying our heavy suitcases!) and were warmly welcomed into the paradise of the Riad Palais Amani. Thomas upgraded us to a 2-story suite (strange but 2 bathrms great) and bought us our first tagine dinner.

Day 3, 4, 5 Fes: The Medinah is incredible. Fascinating just to walk around looking at all the sights/sounds. We had a local guide and felt we really needed his guidance the first day - getting lost is a real option - but felt confident on our own thereafter. Liked this Medinah much better than Marrakech. Less hawkers/pressure and more authentic feeling. Beasts of burden definitely get the right of way. Craftsmen hard at work, welding, weaving, woodworking, metal working. Loved the section with the lanterns and copper. Saw dough, like phyllo, being made & stretched onto a hot dome to bake. Piles & piles of dates, mint, figs, spices = how do they all make a living when right next to your stall are many others??? Everywhere smiling faces. A simple, hard life but they seem OK. Loved the Palais Amani and their very helpful staff. An oasis in a sea of noise & confusion. Enjoyed a Hamman there. Classic domed facility, steam - hot. A women with a bucket washed me up, then scrubbed me with a loofa/salt (not too rough but aggressive), washed the salt off then rubbed me with Argon oil paste, wrapped me up in Saran Wrap and let me steam. Then washed me off again. Such an experience, don't miss trying it.

stilltravelingat62: A friend & I are going to Morocco in September. Really looking forward to the Hammans. Do you remember the name & address of the one you mention in Fez?

I had the hamman right at the Riad Palais Amani where we stayed in the Medinah. There are public ones, but I understand those are much rougher. The upscale riads take it easier on you. I don't know that they accept customers that are not staying there, ask at your riad or hotel. www.palaisamani.com 12 Derb El Miter, Oued Zhoune, Hay Blida, Fes Medina And my hamman only cost $20

Day 6 to the desert: Our wonderful driver, Naim, picked us up early in the morning for the long drive to the desert. It is preferable to not do it in one day, but so much to see, so little time....we chose to make it a long day. Amazing how the landscape changes every couple/hours. First green, vineyards (yes, they do make good wine in Morocco), then as we started to climb the High Atlas it started to rain, sleet, snow; rocks - grey/white and wet. Then as we descended, more arid, brown, sheep/goats, until finally the desert. Now this is not really the Sahara, it is huge sand dunes in arid land. Fascinating little towns. Tagines set out to mark restaurants; slaughtered sheep with heads intact hanging at the butchers; women in burkas; camels in the back of vans. Finally arrival at Erg Chebbi. Left our things with Naim and took an overnight bag to the tented camp. Surprise, not isolated - there is a building with showers/toilets/restaurant right next to the tents. A bit of a disappointment. I felt terrible - upset stomach, diahhrea, headache, stuffy nose, fever. I wanted nothing but to rest/sleep. But hey, I came halfway around the world to ride a camel into the desert, I was going to do it no matter what. Met the camels. I asked what mine's name was. "Name? he has no name -- he is a camel!" Then No Name tried to bite me. So I rode into the desert on a camel with no name, it felt good to be out on the range..... Windy, cloudy = no stars, no moon. I feel like crap and this certainly isn't worth it. All the other tourists go back to the hotel for the night because of the wind. We are the only ones who stay. Dinner is absolutely terrible. Tent was threadbare so every time there was a gust of wind and the top of the tent raised up, I got a face full of sand. Must admit though, had a great night's sleep. When they woke us up at 5am, I actually felt good. Back on No Name and up the dune in the dark. Our Berber guide spread a blanket for us and we sat there and watched the most incredible sunrise of my life (and I am old). It made it all worthwhile. The changing colors of the desert as the sun rose were so beautiful. The silence. Peace and beauty.

I'm so sorry to hear about your experience, but please don't let it jade you against the Sahara Desert. You seem like someone who loves the desert so I'm sure you'll bounce back and have a better time next time.

actually I consider the sunrise in the desert one of the most incredible experiences I've ever had. I did not expect luxary and the weather is always a varitable wherever you travel. I am quite sure that those who returned to a hotel missed out; we had the most memorable experience.

"I am quite sure that those who returned to a hotel missed out"

Not necessarily. I stayed in a hotel on the edge of the Sahara in Morocco, and still got to experience a wonderful sunrise.

Can't believe it's Aug already; maybe this is why I've never posted before -- I'm not very good at this.
Day 7 we returned to the Xaluca Arfoud Hotel for a much-appreciated shower and to meet up again with our wonderful "son", Naim. Drove through the Tordra Gorge, stopping en route to see Naim's home and meet his brother. Beautiful Damascus roses everywhere. They are a floribud pink rose that the pilgrims brought back from Mecca long ago (along with dates & figs). Lunch at a tourist hotel overlooking the gorge. A guy with a donkey was insistent that I should have a ride. I must be twice the size of the poor thing! Ended up tipping him to take his donkey and go away. Also tipped a snake charmer to take his snakes away. Arrived at the cocktail hour at Xaluca Dades Hotel = fabulous! Thomas of Journey Beyond must have upgraded our room. Surely everyone didn't have a sitting area with huge tv, balcony with hot tub, 2 bathrms with copper sinks/mirrors, huge bedrm with another balcony and huge tv. Went to the bar. Strange to see men drinking coffee/fruit drinks, smoking and quietly watching a soccer match. There were bus groups there so entertainment at dinner, local people in costume/instruments. Loved the women giving the "Berber call". Great buffet = real quality food.

I would add that if you are in Casablanca that you should make an effort to go on the tour of the grand mosque at the water's edge in the city-it is amazing and our family thoroughly enjoyed the non Muslim/English tour that was offered.It will remind people of the Taj Mahal with its beauty.

It was last evening when we turned on one of those flat sceen tv's that we learned of the death of Bin Laden. Wow, after 10 years they finally have to get him while I am in a Muslim country!
Day 8 to Marrakech
Another endlessly interesting drive. Never tire of the changing landscape, the goats, the people, the villages. Passed through the Tichi Pass easily. This winding route is way overrated; perfectly wide enough & safe. Beautiful. Arrived at the beautiful Riad Monceau at the cocktail hour. Wow, what a room. Thanks to the upgrade by Journey Beyond, we had the Pasha Suite. Huge room and bath including a hot tub large enough for 6 people. Very welcoming, serene oasis of quiet. Again, Journey Beyond bought our dinner and it was delicious. Lamb tagine with dates & apricots.

Thanks for taking the time to post your report, I'm enjoying it. Morocco's on tap for me next year, fingers crossed.

Day 9 Marrakech
Met our guide provided by Journey Beyond for a tour. The bombed cafe loomed over the main square where it seemed to be busines as usual. Eerie. We told our guide we did not want to linger in the square and to please take us somewhere non-touristy for lunch. As I stood there looking at the place, I am quite sure that is where I would choose to be with a drink in hand to watch the night stalls set up. Our guide said he always takes his clients there; it was the best spot to view the square. He remarked how interesting it was that the cafe was bombed at 11am when it was mostly empty. He said at 4-5:00 it is always full of tourists. There was a flower shine with notes of sympathy.
The souks were very interesting, but just didn't seem as authentic as those in Fez. Larger, more commercial type shops in addition to the stalls. Saw enough carpets to last a lifetime. Took in all the main historical sites. Loved all the storks nesting on anything high, lots of chicks. Marrakech is full of beautiful roses.
We were taken to a very untouristy restaurant for lunch, as requested. I was a little wary at first, but actually the food (chicken kabob) was delicious. I went to the rest room, again very wary, and found it to be very clean - even had toilet paper.
Back to the peaceful Riad Monceau to enjoy another delicious dinner overlooking the pool.

I had the same feeling about the souk in Marrakesh - the one in Fez felt much more authentic.

I agree, Thirsdays...Fes souk is magical.

Stilltravelingat62...I'm sure you will post pix far better than these...taken in '97 and scanned...Erg Chebbi was the highlight...sunup was breathtaking..we drove about 1500 miles in nearly three weeks, starting in Fes.

stillhtravelingat62, eh? Keep it up and cherish every moment.

Stu Tower (stilltraveling at 82 !)

http://picasaweb.google.com/stuarttower/Morocco#

Love your pictures, Stu.

It's so nice to see people in them... so many vacation pictures I see usually just have buildings and landscapes. People make them come to life. It looked like you had a ball.

You're an inspiration, traveling at 82. I have a few more decades to go, but I never want to give it up. The world is a big, big place, so much to see...

Day 10 = Marrakech
The Riad Monceau arranged for us to golf at The Palmerie today. We chose that course over the Royal Golf Course because of the view of the Atlas Mts.
Fascinating drive out to the course. People hurrying to work. Mediums in the roadway covered in roses. Expensive cars sharing the road with horsecarts.
Very expensive = almost $300 for the two of us for 9 holes with cart and club rental. Ouch! View -- what view? Cloudy. Course was in terrible shape. Bumpy greens. Enjoyed a wonderful lunch with very slow service at the Clubhouse. All in all, an interesting day.
Arrived back in town in time to see them setting up the food stalls in the main square. My husband visited with the snake charmers and was covered in snakes. Men dressed as belly dancers. Story tellers with crowds of local people. Monkeys. Orange juice stands - Morocco has spoiled me forever for orange juice; they have the best! Ladies offering to cover you with henna. Everyone wants $ from you. If you even raise your camera to take a photo, they surround you wanting money. Quite unpleasant. The hawkers for the food stalls are relentless. "Bloody Marvelous" What an incredible experience! You don't get this back home....

Stu = great photos! It looks like you went everywhere we did, plus more. Thank you and keep traveling....

Day 11 = Marrakech
This day was one of the highlights of my trip. I am a foodie. One of the reasons for choosing the Riad Monceau was to have a cooking class. What fun it was! The staff/chef were so patient with me. I had been wondering how the meat in Morocco was so tender & juicy = they use a pressure cooker! They just transfer it into a tagine to finish up and serve. I made a salad of tomatoes & peppers. I made a chicken tagine (no pressure cooker, tagine all the way). We carmelized tomatoes to add to the chicken at the end of the cooking process. I watched the Sous Chef make couscous, a very time consuming process involving burning hands sifting through the steaming hot couscous 4 different times. Then my husband and I got to enjoy the fruits of my labor. I must say the couscous was the best I've ever tasted.
We ventured out that evening through the main square and took a carriage ride to the Meridian Hotel for dinner. Beautiful hotel. Had a pretty good dinner outside in their "garden". Upon our return, the main square was smothered in smoke and full of people = what fun! Spent a long time walking around, taking it all in.
This was our last day in Morocco. Off in the morning to Portugal. My head is still full of all the sights/people that we encountered on our visit. Morocco was out of our usual comfort zone, different culture, religion, people, customs = just everything different. And all wonderful. No one should hesitate to travel there. The people are friendly and welcoming.