cary999

Many thanks Andy, I know you have been there more than a couple of times. About what percentage of time have you seen calving?

About vehicles in the area fewer in March, that's what we were told by our Roy Safaris guides. They were full busy from Jan through Feb. But come Mar and it dropped off to zero!!!

regards - tom

andybiggs

Tom, I don't really see much calvin at all in March, but that's ok with me. What we do see is plenty of predation, though. Plenty of babies, though!

aby

<i>" Would love to hear from people who've seen the Nat Geo style wall-to-wall migration!" </i>

Well, I have seen such a wall-to-wall migration in Serengeti during April a couple of years ago.
I visited Mara about a 100 times ( let's say that only 50 visits during the "migration season") & never seen such a concentration… a friend, a boutique safari-company owner, told me that it's the nature photographers' best kept secret that during this time (within the rainy season) is when u see the wall-to-wall migration
April 2011: Serengeti - a number of experienced tour leaders looking for migration herds in central Serengeti for 2-3 days, some of them missed it. At the same time, I was in the Mara and saw the huge herds on the plains out of the park. My companions have had a 'migration feeling' while some Serengeti visitors missed…

bottom line 1: the best thing about Safari is the uncertainty; that nothing is guaranteed...
bottom line 2: average or median (date etc') are simply average or median (tom said it in other words)
bottom line 3: anybody's specific experience is irrelevant
bottom line 4: <b>don't come with a list</b> of a b c (or 5 species or phenomena...)
<b>challenge the bush: "surprise me!" </b>

cary999

" the best thing about Safari is the uncertainty; that nothing is guaranteed."

Indeed, well said. I'm sure that's what keeps pulling me back.

regards - tom

aby

Dubito ergo Sum

(Descartes 17th C)

wildlifepainter

Cary999 asked, where in Central Serengeti do you like to stay? I/we stayed at Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge (only 2 nights). It was very nice but I thought its location, sort of in a large hill wasted too much time getting too and from.


First year was Mbuzi Mawe. Second year was a private camp at Naabi Gate and Serengeti Sopa. Third year we stayed at Seronera Wildlife Lodge and 1 night at the Serena Serengeti (mostly because I wanted to see it). We felt that the Sopa, Serena and Mbuzi were too far away from the action but were great lodges. Sopa and Serena both have a tsetse fly zone to pass through to get to the lodges(just be aware and close up if need be). Private camping is way more expensive and we miss the interaction with other guests. Also, I don't want to be a snob but 10-13 hours a day with my guide is enough. I love my guide (we've requested and gotten the same one every year) but we need a little down time. So my choice would be the Wildlife Lodge. The location can't be beat. We were watching the leopard cubs with mom this year and everyone else had to leave at 6pm to make it back to camp on time and we watched when they were most active until 6:45. A real treat. But, the walls are paper thin and there tends to be more kids there. They have a beautiful viewing deck but no chairs to sit on, gift shop with nothing in it, etc. One more but, the lodge, built into the boulders, is stunning and the food was pretty good.

So my next Tanzania safari (2013?) will be in March with a fly in and out with 4 nights at Ndutu Lodge, 2 nights Serengeti Sopa (I like the drive through the Moru area and the migration could be here), 2 nights Seronera Wildlife Lodge, and then back through Naabi Gate to Ndutu for 3 or 4 more nights. Are we the only ones that didn't love Botswana? We really like the openness of East Africa and next year we are booked for 7 nights in the Mara followed by gorillas in Rwanda.

sandi

aby - glad you enjoyed

As I've expressed often and as many others will attest (aby, your "bottom lines" are spot on) leave the tick-sheet at home and just let Africa show you what she has to offer day-by-day.

On my first visit 17/yrs ago I hadn't the foggiest what the migration was, but ran right into it in late-Nov/early-Dec in the Mara (not the Serengeti). Two years later in Tanzania, I found myself enthralled with birds, but still nowhere near an expert (nor want to be)... only that they're so beautiful. And, on every subsequent visit since, I've been presented with the unexpected, as if Mother Africa knew I liked surprises, so she never disappoints.

raelond

We went to Tanzania the last two weeks of March in 2008 and the migration was just like you see on National Geographic, animals as far as the eye can see in ever direction. There were no other vehicles around and it was truly amazing. We had some rain, but only one game drive was delayed because of it.

linjudy

Really appreciate all the advice. We're going to stick to our Feb date, mostly b/c it took nearly an hour on the phone with United to confirm the flights using FFM, and I can't bear the thought of doing it all over again!

So, after many hours of combing through these forums and the internet, I've arrived at the following itinerary. Would appreciate feedback!!

Day 1: Arrive in Nairobi from Istanbul at 1AM (best *A routing, go figure). Overnight in Nairobi

Day 2: Fly from Nairobi to Arusha. Stay at either Rivertree or Onsea House. Would probably just chill out, maybe go to the market or do a village visit. I want to have a buffer day "just in case".

Day 3: Get up early and drive to Tarangari, game drive in the park, o/n at Oliver's Camp. I've heard so many mixed reviews about the park in FEb, but the camp seems fabulous and a really good deal this time of year.

Day 3: Drive towards Manyara, game drive in Manyara, o/n at Plantation Lodge. Manyara seems enroute to Crater? and Plantation Lodge seems really nice. One agent tells me this is a waste and we should stay 2 nights at Olivers. but that seems to make for a super long drive the next 2 days. In general, I would prefer to keep non-game viewing drives to 3-4 hours a day max.

Day 4: Leave early morning and visit the Crater. O/n at Crater Serena. I would like 1 night at the Crater Rim and can't afford Crater Lodge.

Day 5: Leave Serena and go to Serengeti. Game drive along the way. O/n at Olakira in Ndutu.

Day 6, 7: Ndutu and Olakira

Day 8: Leave Olakira, game drive to Dunia or Kusini Camp in C. Serengeti. What's the consensus about this area during Feb? Even if the game is not great, we would like to stay in a different area for a bit.

Day 9: Another day at C. Serengeti.

Day 10: Fly from Seronera airstrip to Zanzibar. Go to the beach. Currently looking at Matemwe Bungalow, Palms, Bazara, or Kono Kono. Any experiences.

Day 11, 12: Zanzibar beach

Day 13: Zanzibar to Nairobi to home.

I know the beginning of the trip is a lot of moving around, but we're very good packers and travel very light, esp. on safari. It's more than what I would like, but it seems all "along the route". I want to avoid back-tracking and non-rewarding driving as much as possible. Should we skip Tarangire or Manyara?

Also, 2 days seem really rushed at the beach, but we're not really beach people, don't do any ocean activities like snorkel/dive, and would be bored if too many days. But it does seem like it would be really nice to just lounge around and do nothing after 2 hectic weeks (we're spending 4 days in Istanbul before Africa). Any opinions on whether it's worth it to go all the way to Zanzibar?

Your thoughts would be super welcome!!

sandi

Day 1: Arriving that late (12:30am and by time to hotel if in town won't be there till 1:30am earliest... LOL!) Hotels near airport tend to be expensive. But know you have flight early in morning day to Tanzania.. what time? Unless you wait till for flight out of Wilson between 12:40 or 1pm, arriving JRO by 2pm latest. Lots of traffic in Nairobi to get to airport very early, so consider maybe flight out of Wilson to JRO.

You'll be flying into Kilimanjaro/JRO the international airport (not Arusha the domestic airport) and remember you need a Kenya Visa on arrival, also a Yellow Fever inoculation for entry to Tanzania; and then a Tanzania Visa. If early morning flight, gotta be up real early especially if at hotel farther in city; again consider departure out of Wilson. And, once in Arusha, know that Rivertrees is lovely but quite a distance from Arusha town if you want to walk around town. Onsea House is closer to town center.

Day 2: Oliver's is lovely and expensive and also located 2/hs drive south of park entry that you'll have to drive out next day if only staying 1/nt. I'd suggest 2/nts.

Day 3: You can drive to and do game drive at Manyara and late afternoon to Ngorongoro for overnight. This way you can get down to crater floor early next morning. Unless you need a "out-of-vehicle" day, I'd skip stop in Karatu where Plantation Lodge is located. Not that it's not lovely, but unless you want some local walking, visiting a tribe, all of which you can get elsewhere.

Actually, I'd skip Manyara and then on morning of Day 4, early departure to Ngorongoro for afternoon crater drive.

Day 4: If you didn't do 2/nts Tarangire and instead Day 3, Manyara and then o/n at Ngorongoro, you're already at crater, so you can do tour early; afternoon at leisure or other optional activities and overnight on crater rim.

Day 5: Ok, via Oldupai Gorge w/stop to Ndutu - o/n Olakira

Day 6, 7: Ndutu - o/n Olakira

Day 8: Leave Olakira, game drive to Central - Dunia is good (another Asilia property)... but know that Kusini is NOT in Central rather in Ndutu... who told you it's in Central?

Day 9: Another day at C. Serengeti.

Day 10: Fly from Seronera airstrip to Zanzibar. - most people do this for 3/nts, especially since February is rather hot. But you've got some really expensive properties in there... Palms and Barazza especially; and Matemwe Bungalows does NOT have a/c. Can't comment on Kono Kono.

Day 11, 12: Zanzibar beach

Day 13: Zanzibar to Nairobi to home.

Personally, you've got work to do on this itinerary. And, if this is what ATR has suggested, I'd reconsider their offering... certainly as they have it set up.

Actually, I'd skip Zanzibar and spend the 2/nts Tarangire and more time in both Ndutu and Central Serengeti. Only if you have an extra day based on your international flights would I include a stop at Karatu for a breather which many people like.

Good luck!

cary999

I'd skip Manyara totally, unless a night stop is required to/from someplace.
Try to do Crater in morning, as soon as you can get into gate. Seemed less crowded to me than the afternoon. Especially before 9am. We did two mornings and one afternoon.

regards - tom

andybiggs

Tom, I agree about skipping Manyara. It used to be a great park, especially for day 1 kinds of wildlife, but now I cannot say that I enjoy going there. Too many people, not enough going on.

cary999

"not enough going on."
I had 4 game drives in it three weeks apart. Saw mostly baboons, vervets, birds. Only one of the big five, elephant, and only couple times. You can not go off-road, the lake (Lake Manyara) was probably 300 yards away from the road, if there had been the famous flamingos on it, you would not see them. Our guide said - "It is said that Lake Manyara is for birds and beginners". If it is your very -first- safari game drive, you will be impressed. And there were LOTS of birds. Will give it this, the best dik-dik view and photo I've ever had/taken!! And one of the little five, a leopard tortoise!! (Both next to the road of course).

regards - tom

linjudy

Thanks for the feedback.

@sandi: actually ATR made many of the same suggestions you did, including skipping Manyara. So, now it looks like:

1 night Arusha (I will ask to stay in town instead)
2 nights Olivers
1 night Plantation Lodge (maybe it's easier to pick a place on crater rim)
3 nights Olakira
2 nights Dunia or Lemala Ewanjan
3 nights Matemwe bungalow (did not know it didn't have AC. will need to pick a place w/AC).

How does that look?

ShayTay

I'd suggest staying at the Ngorongoro Sopa on the crater rim. They have their own ascent/descent road, so you'll get into the Crater quicker. If you stay "off-rim" at Plantation Lodge, then you've got at least and hour to an hour and a half before you get into the Crater. You'll have to wait until the gate to the NCA opens, and that's probably an hour's drive from there into the Crater, losing precious time. I like Plantation Lodge and The Farmhouse, but the half-day rule for the Crater makes it difficult to utilize all your allowed time for the Crater when you stay off the crater rim.

If you need AC on NE Zanzibar, you might look at Shooting Star Lodge... nice and not too expensive, with AC.

sandi

... well, even though a competitor, great minds do think alike

Ooops, just noticed that you didn't show Ngorongoro on itinerary. Do you not want to stop here? If so, know that it is not at all unusual for ATR to NOT put clients on the crater rim. Why? Beats me???

But if you want to do the afternoon crater tour (limited to 6/hrs), then you do and spend night on the rim, but certainly not at Plantation which is at least a 1.5/hr drive back (to the east) when the routing has you heading west.

If you want to do the morning crater tour, from Karatu even with a very early wake-up, the drive is 1.5/hrs to be at the NCA gates at 6am when they open and then time needed to get down to crater floor.

So, obviously... something has been missed! Yes?

Though a long drive from Oliver's thru Tarangire (2/hrs w/o game viewing along the way) then 3.5/hrs to Ngorongoro... suggest if you want to visit the crater, you head here and just chill on arrival at Sopa Lodge or Lemala Camp on rim (both use same access road into crater... faster than if staying at Serena, so can be down there first signs of light). Then on conclusion on crater floor, back to rim and o/n here again or move out of NCA and maybe o/n at Farmhouse at farthest west Karatu, which is lovely property and ideal for a bit of R&R (closest property... about 15/min once out of NCA gates). Next morning head to Ndutu.

Itinerary would then look like:

Day 1 - Arusha - Onsea House
Day 2 - Tarangire - Oliver's
Day 3 - Tarangire - Oliver's
Day 4 - Ngorongoro - Sopa or Lemala
Day 5 - Ngo - morning crater tour; pm head to Farmhouse
Day 6 - Ndutu - Olakira
Days 7 & 8 - Ndutu - Olakira
Day 9 - Seronera - Dunia (as a bit south of Seronera) or Lemala Ewanjan (a bit north of Seronera)
Day 10 - Seronera - Dunia or Lemala Ewanjan
Day 12 - Fly to Arusha; connect to ZNZ - o/n Matemwe Bungalow (fans); Matemwe Retreat (a/c, 3/villas only, but real expensive), also expensive The Palms (6/cottages), Breezes (60/rooms), Barazza (believe 11 or 17)... these three are under same ownership.

There are others w/ a/c - Ras Nungwi (a/c, north tip w/ 35 rooms/cottages some w/ plunge pool); Blue Bay (a/c, about 60 rooms/cottages)

Also, lots of new ones that have opened in past 2/yrs, that I'm sorry can't comment with specifics, but are small, intimate and most w/ a/c such as:
- Anna of Zanzibar w/ only 4 villas;
- Essque (Zalu Zanzibar) a/c w/ 40 suite cottages, at south, which looks lovely but seems too big somehow;
- Kasha Luxe Boutique (at Matemwe w/ a/c, small);
- Kilindi, though fans only, is a sister property of Shompole in Kenya, where we found fans more than sufficient, and a real winner... maybe have a look-see
... ask for options and prices

Good luck!

linjudy

Thank you, Shaytay and Sandi. Your suggestions look great. After thinking about it, we've decided not to go to Zanzibar. Seems like it would just be too rushed. We'll add an extra day to Olakira and end the trip in Arusha to do some shopping.

Thanks for all your help. Now wish me luck on securing availability and getting everything booked!