I'm very excited because there is talk in our household of going to Morocco in May and driving ourselves. Many years ago we spent a few days in Marrakech. We loved it but we love small villages more. We would like to see Fez and Ait Bienhaddaou. We are not concerned about driving ourselves as we are experienced off roaders (or at least my husband is). We enjoy local markets and the more rural the better.

Please, I would love to hear your suggestions for a route.

Many Thanks!

I wanted to add we have around 10 days in Morroco and Fez is not really on top of the list. If we fit it is that's great but not necessary.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Honestly, I do hope you give Fez a try. We liked it far more than Marrakesh, it just felt more like it was there as a city and a lot less built around tourism. Much more "old world" in a authentic sense.

Our itinerary was enjoyable, but maybe a bit rushed. We self-drove part much of it, where practical. Some of our lest planned places (like stop overs) turned out to be the most memorable. We had 3 weeks, but that also included some time in Spain:

- Arrive, overnight in Casablanca at Ibis next to train station.
- Train to Marrakesh station connecting immediately to Supratours bus to Essouira. A couple of days at much loved Dar Loulema.
- Bus back to Marrakesh. Taxi strike forces ride on back of some guy's work truck from station to inner medina. Funky riad experience there, no reco.
- Rent car at airport. Do not book BUDGET RENT-A-CAR if you actually want a real car. We had reservations, printed emails, the works. No car there of any sort. We had to go begging at the other counters or we'd have been stuck. A local outfit called something like "Capital" really helped us out (although the car was pretty much a beater on the outside, the little 4 cyl went like a champ).
- Headed for Merzouga and the dunes, stopped at Ait Benhaddou enroute and overnighting at a 800 yr old kasbah/hotel called Ait Ben Moro in a palm grove in Skoura. Very cool experience, though not the cheapest of places. Good food there. Highly recommend going up to the roof at night if not cloudy. Wow - the stars! www.aitbenmoro.com
- Drove out to Merzouga, taking detours up the Dades gorge on the way. Spent the night at the dunes. No reco for inns or tours there either, but loved the light on the dunes in the early morning.
- Headed towards Fez, but stopped along the way. Ended up staying in Azrou overnight and a good portion of the next day. Didn't expect this was going to be one of our favorite parts. The town does not look "Moroccan" at all, but it sure felt it. We really enjoyed the local outdoor market and the few shops in town, with by far the cheapest and best quality Moroccan goods we found. Very laid back in Azrou. Also a good base to go out and find some of the wilder tribes of monkeys in the area.
- In Fez we stayed at Dar Seffarine. Still quite possibly my favorite place I've stayed on all our trips. www.darseffarine.com We turned in the car on arrival in Fez.
- After Fez, we went on north to Chefchouen by public bus. A nice town but used to tourists, so there's restaurants and such. Very pretty. Not sure it is "in the loop" logistically for a 10 day trip though.
- We left there by taxi to Ceuta on the coast, crossed immigration there, then went to the ferry port where we bought a ticket leaving within the hour for Spain.

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Clinton,
Wow, thanks so much for some very helpful info!

I have a couple questions:
How long was the train ride and what was it like?
Can you suggest a good road map?
Can we drive from Marrahesh to Essouira?

Again thanks!

Trying to recall here, but I was thinking the train from Casa to Marrakech was about 3.5. My wife's recalling roughly the same. I would think so on driving to Essouira, but we did the bus. That was pretty easy, as it was a combined ticket we bought in Casa - the bus is setup to not leave until the train comes in. The trains not plush, but it's ok. Compartments for 4 people, windows to watch the landscape change. The toilet though wasn't much more than a hole (I could see the tracks passing under - always good for entertainment, eh?) We just did it that way because we were going to Essa first anyway (Intro to Morocco 101 with all the laid back euro style tourism) and couldn't really use the car in Essa anyway. Then would have not needed the car again in Marrakesh, so we just did the bus thing and waited until it was time to leave Marrakesh before getting a car. Saved a few bucks and parking issues. Got off the train, walked to the adjoining bus station, showed the guy our ticket and he pointed to the right bus which added a couple more hours. Comfortable bus though, more so than the train. Assigned seats and A/C. Otherwise, the road seemed good for driving, I'd think.

We used the Michelin Morocco map and it was fine. The main roads and secondary roads are in pretty good shape and well posted, we thought Never got lost in Morocco! More than I could say for places like Ireland, in comparison. Just watch for unpredictable moves by other drivers around you.

I forgot I still had some bookmarks from our trip. Thought this driving distance calculator might come in handy for you.

http://lexicorient.com/morocco/z_distances.htm

We drove around about two weeks in a rental car and loved it. However, I think it will be a bit challenging if you don't speak Arabic or French. (We speak French.) We flew into Marrakech, stayed a couple of nights before driving to Essaouira for two nights. Then on to Ait Ben...., and on to Merzouga for an overnight in the desert after a camel ride out there. Then we drove to Fez for one night--it wasn't our favorite. Then up to Chefchaouen--we loved it there--for three nights, then on through Casablanca, back to Marrakech once again. We left our car parked while in Marrakech. Actually in Essaouira also. Mostly used it to get to places and then walked or used local transportation. (we were almost 60.) Photos at www.pbase.com/pattyroth

Thanks again Clinton for your tips - ordering the map today.

Patty, Thanks for you imput!I loved your photos - Wow!

One more question - I am a big wimp when it comes to cold. Since we will there in May (and understand days will be pleasant but nights cold) should I Not assume all accommodations have heaters in the room?

Hmmm. Not to sure about heaters. We stayed in moderate riads and hotels--but didn't need heaters. We did need air conditioners occasionally and sometimes they worked okay, othertimes, marginal. Still Morocco is so worth it!