Hi Everyone!

I got so much insight and help from this website that to post my final itinerary is just one small step towards contributing to this forum. Hopefully I can soon add on with my experiences, trip reports and better than average photos! ( the last is gonna be a struggle but I will try to keep up with the standard set here!)

After countless nights (and days while at work) I have frozen the following. To give a bit of a background, I am 34, Indian and have more often than not travelled solo. I have loved the few trips with friends but often found that because of a keen interest ( that currently is greater than the talent ) in photography and this obsession to really experience a place and not just shopping malls and cafe, I have preferred solo travel.

Anyways here goes the itinerary

December 9th 2011 to 1st Jan 2012 : Botswana + Vic Falls

10th :Maun

11th-13th : Mombo Main Camp ( Tent 9!)

14th-16th : Little Vumbura

17th-20th: Duba Plains

21st -24th : Chitabe Lediba

25th-27th : Kalahari Plains Camp

28th-29th : Tongabezi

30th : Vic Falls Hotel

31st : Jo'burg

I know it is the green season and with the rains and floods things are more than just iffy. However this is what I can do this year and extremely excited. Even with all the uncertainity around the green season in 2011, I can sense this will be the best trip I have ever done!! Also know for sure, this would be just a start to many many trips in many different forms to Botswana! Especially the Kwando lodges in 2012!

With respect to the whole trip planning, I relied extensively on the internet, Fodors, Tripadvisor ( to a lesser extent ) and lots of input from my TA and few others. In the space of over a month, I spoke to 8-10 TAs, though in any kind of detail to about 4. As previously suggested prices were varying by as much as USD6-7k though only 2 were outliers. My final decision was based on comfort, price, knowledge of the TA and what I sensed to be a true 'enthusiasm' for Africa. Of the 8-10, I would recommend 2-3 but everyone would have different goals so best to get in touch through mail!

In terms of shortlisting the camps, I went with what I really wanted to visit and see as a starting point, cross-checked it with forums and the internet and then matched different TAs' advices to what was discussed on forums by travellers. For example I got some good advice on dropping Matetsi, adding Kalahari, universal opinion on Chitabe and LV and some not too great advice on Jacana & Jack's ( personally for me, could be different for others).

Previously, I was trying to put together Tanzania in the same trip but with the FF miles & logistics not favoring that, I am now planning Tanzania for September 2011 (2nd to 16th) as follows:

1 day Arusha, 3 days Olakiri camp, 5 days Sayari, 3 days NCL and 3 days Oliver's Camp. Any help and advice for this will be very appreciated!

Will be posting many many more questions on now the next part- i.e. photography, preparation, first time safari advices etc etc. To think on 1st of Jan I didnt even know this site existed and today it possibly occupies 75% of my IE History!! Thank you once again Fodorites!!!

Anita

Anita,

Wow what a first trip to Botswana. I am envious of your itinerary. I am sure you will have an outstanding time.

For your Tanzania trip I have stayed at Sayari, Dunia and Oliver's. Are you sure you are staying at both Sayari and Olakira? Both of these are very different but fantastic camps that are located about 15 miles from each other in the Northern Serengeti. Usually, most stay at one or the other. Olakira used to be located in Moru but has now moved north during September with Dunia being the name of the new camp in Moru. I would hope you will be spending at least a few nights in Central Serengeti (Moru or Seronera). Be sure to go on an afternoon walk with Alex at Oliver's. I was lucky enough to get within 50 yards of a pride of 5 lions. It was quite exhilarating being on foot.

Have a great trip.

Hi Mason

Thanks a lot! Yes I am super excited about Botswana (and Tanzania as well). There were just so many choices, I decided to get the camps I really wanted 'out of my system' so that then I could plan more specific trips!

Thank you for the Tanzania tip- its indeed very valuable- My impression out of the 'research' was that Olakira would be somewhere between central and northwestern Serengeti. I will read up more on this camp now! Would 1st week of September be still a good time to visit Moru? I understand the resident game does not move around as much and frankly I wouldnt want to do 8 days of game driving within the Serengeti NP rules in the same area! Any feedback from you or others on Dunia around end august-early September specifically? There is very good availability in the Dunia camps as well now.

Also any tips on what are the offers/special rates for doing upto 11 nights in Asilia Camps in September?

I will definitely look up Alex. I am trying to organise Private Vehicles for atleast some part of the trip so any tips on those would be great too!

Thanks!

Anita

Congratulations on your upcoming safaris! Botswana and Tanzania are my favorite two countries in Africa. You'll have wonderful experiences in both.

I'd suggest starting in Tarangire and working your way over to the Serengeti from there, instead of the opposite direction. That way, your safari will build to its climax, the Serengeti.

Most of the Migration herds should be in the Masai Mara in Kenya in September. There are some resident herds in the far northern part of the Serengeti, though, that should be there and so Sayari will be good for that. I wonder if Asila has a way to transfer you from Sayari to one of their camps in the Mara without going back through Arusha and Nairobi. Staying in Rekero or Naboisho would put you into the Mara, which is fantastic at that time of year. I think there has been a recent discussion about that here on Fodors. Then, you could fly out of Nairobi (if you switched your itinerary around, starting with Tarangire.)

All good points.

If sticking with all Asilia properties (but at the Crater), you should be able to get an "extended stay" discount, so ask.

Sayari is a "permanent" camp in No. Serengeti. Olakira (the less expensive of the two) moves up this way from June-Oct and is a short distance from Sayari... so choose one rather than both. Olakira moves back south to Ndutu from Nov-Mar, so is considered a "seasonal" tented camp.

For Central, the Dunia Camp would be a good and there is resident game year-round. And, Oliver's at the southern end of Tarangire another good stop for your "elephant" experience.

And, with Asilia now having the properties in Kenya, you might want to conclude your holidays "saving the best for last" with the migration here.

As a solo traveler you're penalized with the single supplement, but it is what it is. Suggest you consider:

Arusha - 1/nt
Fly to Tarangire - 3/nts @ Oliver's
Fly to Lake Manyara for road transfer to NCL - 2/nts*
Road transfer back to Lake Manyara for flight to Central Serengeti - 2/nts @ Dunia
Fly to No. Serengeti - 3/nts @ Sayari or Olakira
Fly via Arusha/JRO to Nairobi
- either overnight here to catch your breath, or
- connect to fly to Masai Mara - 3-4/nts @ Rekero or Naboisho.

Be aware though that Rekero books up months (even years) in advance and if for Sept 2011, you'll have to be lucky!

I indicate flights as the distances between these areas is great and each would take up many hours in transit on some really lousy roads.

*every trip down into the crater will cost you $200 for the vehicle, besides your daily park fees, why reduced from 3/nts

Keep us current with your progress.

Great advice from ShayTay and Sandi. I was at Dunia in mid-July and the game viewing was fantastic. I saw black rhino twice in Moru. Personally, I would use a local operator (Maasai Wanderings, Roy's Safaris or Duma Explorer) to take me to/from Arusha-Tarangire-Ngorogoro-Central Serengeti. This would give you your private vehicle and I really enjoy seeing the sites (Maasai moving their herds, markets and general Tanzanian life) between Arusha and Karatu. From Central Serengeti then fly to Kogatende where Sayari is located. Book a private vehicle at Sayari and then fly back to Arusha for home or Kenya.

Great advice from ShayTay and Sandi. I was at Dunia in mid-July and the game viewing was fantastic. I saw black rhino twice in Moru. Personally, I would use a local operator (Maasai Wanderings, Roy's Safaris or Duma Explorer) to take me to/from Arusha-Tarangire-Ngorogoro-Central Serengeti. This would give you your private vehicle and I really enjoy seeing the sites (Maasai moving their herds, markets and general Tanzanian life) between Arusha and Karatu. From Central Serengeti then fly to Kogatende where Sayari is located. Book a private vehicle at Sayari and then fly back to Arusha for home or Kenya.

Hi Guys

These are great feedbacks! Infact my first attempt was to do exactly as you guys suggested, i.e. start with Tarangire and build up. But I started planning really late ( a week back)and had to come to this schedule due to camp availability! It was either this or too many back and forth flying. I can do August or September but was getting availability in Nomad Lamai but not Sayari for August. While Nomad Lamai sounds great, a.) they have closed vehicles and b.) this will be the 1st year of operation.

I just checked and Rekero does have very decent availability ( for September!)
http://www.asiliaafrica.com/rekero/#

However, not having gone on a Safari before, I am a bit sceptical of packing in too much in one go. My initial thoughts were to explore Kenya separately -Mara along with Samburu, Nakuru, Amboseli instead of packing it with Tanzania. Also going to Tanzania in September meant, I could avoid the worst vehicle crowding of July/August. Migration seems anyways a bit of a luck and resident game seems superb in September. Thoughts?

I will look into changing NCL to 2 nights as after the indulgent Botswana booking, I need to be price sensitive now and frankly everyone has told me to do 2 nights here and I dont know why I have been stuck to 3!

I had not considered Central Serengeti-Moru Kopjes if it hadnt been for this forum and now have changed Olakiri to Dunia- Thanks a lot for this suggestion- spent couple of hours researching yesterday night and the trade off between excellent game with comparatively more vehicle crowding ( than Northern Serengeti) seems a good position!

Will keep everyone updated - gonna see if I can put in Rekero without too much hassle/flight expenses (my intl flight is Kenya Airways so atleast thats a good starting point!).

Thanks again! you guys are brilliant! Please keep the suggestions coming

Anita

Hi Mason

I am checking with Roy Safaris as have heard many good things about them from a number of people here especially wrt to photo safaris. Also checking with Warrior Trails. I guess on the private vehicle part it all depends on the final cost - the guides in these camps are good too and if the difference is marginal, I would go for something like Roy but if that comes out too expensive than got to look at the other option!

Question: What kind of vehicles does Roy have? On their website its the pop top closed vehicle picture but wondering if they have both and requests can be made for an open vehicle?

Cheers
Anita

Hi Anita,

Open vehicles are only allowed in the parks I believe. It is necessary if transferring between camps and traveling faster than game driving speed due to dust. Roy's are pop-top. One option would be Kiliwarriors since their vehicles are modified with canvas roll-up sides, they are very nice but charge a premium. I don't mind the pop-top, it gives me the roof or window to steady my camera on long shots. I would prefer to be at eye level of the animals but with any distance this is negated. In Botswana, you will be much closer to the animals the majority of the time.

You may find it less expensive to have your own vehicle vs. flying between every camp. I would get a couple quotes.

Best of luck.

I also enjoy driving through Tanzania and don't find the main roads all that bad (except for the stretch between the Crater and the Serengeti gate.)Heck, I've even seen a road grader in the Serengeti! The closed vehicles are not really a problem, given the roof hatches, as Mason1201 points out. I've been in open vehicles in southern Africa and "closed" vehicles in East Africa and don't find them to be a problem. One issue to consider is that if you are flying from camp to camp and using their guides and vehicles, you don't know if your guide will be the all that good, or how many people the camp will be putting in the vehicle. I'd forgo the flights(except out of the Serengeti back to Arusha) and use one guide and vehicle all the way through your itinerary. Warrior Trails gets good reviews. Also, Bill Givens at "The Wild Source" has a couple of great guides in Tanzania. You could also save some money by NOT staying at NCL, which is a bit over the top IMHO. The Ngorongoro Sopa has its own descent/ascent road, which gets you into the Crater more quickly in the morning.

Doing a Kenya safari is a good idea, but given the time of year you're going, it's a great time to be in the Mara. A couple of years ago, I did a safari to southern and western Tanzania, then tacked on 4 nights at Governors Camp in the Mara. It was fantastic!

Hi Shay/Mason

Thanks again for all the feedback! Like a good girl I spent today morning researching this entire site on open vs Pop Top vehicles and this is what I have to say : A little knowledge is normally quite dangerous, in the case of planning one's first safari it can be the stupidest thing to do. For long I had the notion open was better than Pop Top on no basis other than the photos I saw and few soundbytes here and there. And now yes I can see the merits for a Pop Top especially in East Africa after going through your comments and other posts from as far back as 2005 onwards!

Regarding transfers I have no issues with bad roads etc ( as long as the vehicle moves at a reasonable pace) - have travelled enough on bad roads with bullock carts and cows and dogs and pigs to care about such things. My only concerns are the quality of guiding and the quality of photo ops if that were restricted in one kind of vehicle over other. Such is not the case especially if I am the only one occupying ALL of the back seat or sharing the front row with the guide!

I am really leaning towards the same guide throughout(I'll check up Wild Source as well) and also considering dropping 1 day out of NCL and visit a Masai Village. Whats your feedback on this?

My only concern on guide now remains about how well would one same guide throughout know Tarangire ( Oliver's is quite deep into the Park unlike some other lodges?) or Lamai wedge over a camp guide.

Re NCL, I get your point, and I think it makes more sense to stay 1 less day here (still get 2 crater visits. I have always wanted to go there ( where always = last 40 days ) I'll look up Ngorongoro Sopa though.

I am Indian- I need visas almost everywhere. Recently UK Immigration tried to stop me from entering as a Tourist on a Tier 1 General visa! So I go through life, trying to keep the visa noise low and have heard visa on arrival at Kenya could cause considerable delays- so probably I would stick to Tanzania in the interest of time ( I have to travel a fair bit on work as well and have just this one passport that gets me everywhere )

Thanks a lot again guys. Please let me know if there are any possible negatives to having the same guide throughout instead of a private camp guide at each site - Of the prices I have seen the difference is around USD 300-350 and probably less if I drop 1 night at NCL!

The only possible negative is if you get the wrong guide. The Wild Source has two of the best in Tanzania: Deo Magoye, who has guided film crews from National Geographic and Felix Mollel, who is not only a senior guide, but also trains guides. I know that Bill Given, the owner of TWS, is headed to Tanzania soon to lead a safari there. If you go to his website and look under "Safari Itineraries", you'll see one for "Big Cats and the Calving of the Migration Season." There is a description of both guides and their experience levels. I plan to use TWC next year for a safari and am looking forward to traveling with these guides.

I'm not sure how getting visas at the airports would be different for citizens of India. I know that I've gotten my visas (as an American) at both the Nairobi and Kilimanjaro (Arusha) airports with no problems. It's really not any slower than waiting in the immigration lines, which you skip if you get your visa there. You also don't have to turn over your passport to the Kenya or Tanzania embassies to get your visa and don't need photos, copies of bank statements, etc.

Easy enough to purchase Visa in Kenya or Tanzania on arrival, even if an Indian passport holder. A good portion of the population in these countries are of Indian heritage.

I too say, stick with one guide throughout while in Tanzania, not that camp guides aren't worthy, but after spending X# of days with one guy and then having to get accustomed to a new one... well, one never knows. And, then having to share game drives with other guests, unless you want to spend for private vehicle/guide daily and pay these supplements ($300-$500/day) that have to be prebooked.

As mentioned above, for transit on the roads between parks, for safety purposed the vehicles have to be closed (dirt, dust, rocks/pebbles), whether those of Roy's or others, are just that with pop-tops.

And, forego NCL, and if not Sopa Lodge, consider Lemala Camp which is on the same side of the rim and uses the same easy access descent/ascent road. This camp gets excellent reviews.

Guys thanks a lot, lots of food for thought, let me work out the availabilities/combinations/logistics. Will postback the finalised trip. Thanks so much for all the help!!!!!

Seconding ShayTay's recommendation above. We are a party of 6 going on a mobile safari through northern and western Serengeti this July with Bill's company, and he's been kind enough to assign both Deo and Felix to our party for 12 days in the bush. Very excited about this. I think there's great value to having a single guide for the entire TZ portion of your trip.

I agree and seems I will luck out with the guides as well. More on the finalised stuff soon, just as soon as I get all the quotes! Cannot tell you how insightful this has been.

I read quite a few trip reports and it seemed that usually there is a Guide AND a driver both in the case of 1 guide throughout. Am not really picky on this as 2 people would be probably wasted on one 1 person but was wondering if thats always the case or only when there are larger private groups travelling together.

Shay : Your post tempted me for a long time on the Mara. However this trip was earlier in December in a shorter format and I am very excited this can now be done in September. My earlier plan was to make a very migration specific trip next year so am gonna stick to Tanzania this year and try to book Mara really early next year to get a good choice of camps!I cannot get Rekero for even 3 days together either at the start or end and would prefer to stay in the triangle plus do a more detailed trip in Kenya!

thank you everyone again!!!

Sounds good, Tanya_1976! You might get lucky like our group did a few years ago and have the rains start early. We were in the northern Serengeti when that happened and the Migration was pouring back across the border and surrounded our camp. You just never know...

In my experience in Tanzania, I've only had a driver/guide, not a driver and a guide. The guides are quite capable of doing both functions. You'll be amazed at how they can be driving along on those challenging roads and spot a leopard in a tree that you can barely see, or see the tuft of a lion's tail the the long grasses.