Chefs across America are ditching the white tablecloths and applying fine-dining chops to burgers, bar food, and comfort fare. Here chef Scott Boswell of Stella! takes this track with the food of Louisiana. At breakfast, pancakes are covered in earthy Louisiana cane syrup and eggs Benedict are topped with Cajun boudin sausage. At lunch and dinner oyster po'boys get an extra zing from spicy remoulade dressing and the roast beef po'boy is remade as Korean barbecue with sinus-clearing kimchi. Some grumble about prices too high for what is, at heart, New Orleans neighborhood fare, but this crisply decorated café sits on a coveted corner of Jackson Square, and that view is priceless.
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