Although the toque has been passed to several chefs since the death of founding chef Masataka Kobayashi, this 24-year-old restaurant, with its chocolate-brown walls, white fabric ceiling, and red-silk-shaded lanterns, is still one of the country's most celebrated food temples. Chef Gregory Short, who worked alongside Thomas Keller at the famed French Laundry for seven years, is at the helm these days, and his tasting menus of four, six, and nine courses ($69-$120) are pleasing both diners and critics. The food is classic French with some contemporary touches and all the dishes are laced with fancy ingredients, leaving diners struggling to choose between sautéed foie gras with a fondue of spring onions and chilled foie gras with huckleberry jam.
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