Like the appealingly bare-bones aesthetic of its space (exposed brick, hardwoods, candlelight), this creative bistro offers unadorned dishes that are jammed with flavor. After traveling for a year, chef-owner Tom Thai returned to Toronto with newfound inspiration from places like Asia, Latin America, and the Mediterranean. There are daily ceviches like seabream with yuzu and shiso, as well as a couple dozen other tapas-style offerings, including spicy blue crab and avocado salad, lamb and duck prosciutto dumplings, and grilled side ribs with sticky shallot glaze. All can be paired with an impressive list of red, white, and sparkling wine, sake and soju, from dry Hungarian Tokaji to a bold Barolo—most modestly priced. The restaurant doesn't take reservations, and it does get busy. Plan accordingly and go early or late.
207 Ossington St., Toronto, Ontario, M6J 2Z8, Canada