Detour off the scenic route from Villars to Gryon at Barboleuse to get to this 18th-century Heidi-esque chalet in the highland pastures. It combines the grist of Alpine legend with good, honest food. Three cheery rooms glowing with log fires under low, beamed ceilings give way to unfettered views of the mountains. You won't see many tourists here; it's a word-of-mouth place that packs in locals and weekend expats in the know. They go for the fondue and raclette, river
trout, and plates of fresh regional mushrooms—and wine spouting from an old fontaine, a wrought-iron contraption rarely seen in restaurants.
4½ km (3 mi) from Villars, Alpe des Chaux, Vaud, 1882, Switzerland