For a pretty one-hour walk up the river Saône's right bank and a return down the other, the Ile Barbe is a lush and leafy enclave to keep in mind. Alex Ansanay's lovely restaurant, whether outside on the terrace or inside the graceful former 17th-century monastery refectory, serves smart, contemporary cuisine based on fresh market products prepared with originality. Look for game in fall and winter. The wine list is strong in local Côtes du Rhône and Macon treasures.
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