Kvarner Hotels

Opatija, Krk, and Lošinj have a healthy selection of quality hotels, but outside these (relatively) major resorts, hotels become a rarer commodity. Much more common is renting a house or apartment. There are multitudes of these holiday homes available across the region, and many local agencies can assist in booking. Expect anything from a room in a block that shares a common kitchen, to a full-blown

private house. Terraces are a standard and range from a simple tiled slab with metal rails to prevent you toppling off to a beautifully appointed perch shaded by a vine-smothered trellis and with an open grill for alfresco cooking. If you want to save money, consider renting a room in a private home. This arrangement rarely involves food, so you'll have to get up and out in the morning for your breakfast. At major transport hubs you'll often be accosted by elderly ladies attempting to entice you to their spare room. (They shout out, "Soba!" meaning "room.") Having a map in hand to understand exactly the location of the room being offered is wise, because out-of-town rooms often mean navigating the public transport system late in the evening or shelling out for a taxi ride. Croats are a house-proud race, so in general rented rooms are likely to be very clean and comfortable, with private bathrooms. Your welcome will probably be very warm, with drinks—especially strong coffee—thrust under your nose the moment you step across the threshold. There's no better way to get a real feel for how Croats live.

It can be close to impossible to get accommodations for fewer than two consecutive nights in high season, so plan to stay at least that long in each place you overnight.

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