The remote location doesn't prevent the staff from offering high-quality, even luxurious accommodations. Lodgings range from backpacker beds for hikers straight off the Queen Charlotte Track to very comfortable hotel rooms with private deck sand and fabulous views across Kenepuru Sound. Dining at the Te Weka restaurant ($$$-$$$$) features local seafood and mussels, along with excellent local wines. You can access the Portage by boat (1 minute on a water taxi) or car from Havelock; the drive takes about 1½ hours on a paved but winding road. Pros: On-site Portage Adventure Centre rents kayaks, mountain bikes, scooters, yachts, and other toys to explore the area; try the Waterside Bar & Café overlooking the bay. Con: Arrive by boat from Picton if you can, as the road is quite demanding.
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