Locally recognized chef Kevin Hopgood dishes up expertly prepared food at this city restaurant. Try the beef, always cooked to perfection whether you like it medium-rare, medium, or well-done. The fresh fish, battered and served with a crisp green salad is another consistently good dish, and the crispy duck is popular, too. The food is not overdressed contemporary cuisine, but rather simply cooked and fresh, with natural (often organic) ingredients enhanced with tasty dressings and jus. Kevin locally sources lots of goodies like the cheese, oil, and saffron, and the drinks menu is avowedly local. It's likely to be busy and the diners buzzing; the service will remain attentive and discreet. Reservations recommended.