With its stately homes, Shoto, a sedate sort of Beverly Hills, is the kind of area you don't expect Tokyo to have—at least not so close to Shibuya Station. In the middle of it all is Chez Matsuo, in a lovely two-story Western-style house. The dining rooms overlook the garden, where you can dine by candlelight on spring and autumn evenings. Owner-chef Matsuo studied as a sommelier in London and perfected his culinary finesse in Paris. His pricey French food is nouvelle; among the specialties of the house are suprême (breast and wing) of duck, clam-and-tomato mousse, and a fish of the day.
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