TRIP REPORT (Split, Trogir, Hvar, Dubrovnik, Mlini, Cavtat)
May 15th, 2006, 08:21 AM
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TRIP REPORT (Split, Trogir, Hvar, Dubrovnik, Mlini, Cavtat)
I just returned from a trip to Croatia which was from May 1-12. I am in my late 50s and I traveled with a friend of the same age. This was my second trip to Croatia and her first. Most of our travel arrangements were again made through Travel Time in Astoria, NY (www.traveltimeny.com). My husband and I were pleased with their arrangements last year, so I decided to use them again.
We flew from Milwaukee, Wisconsin to Cincinnati and then to Frankfurt on Delta Airlines and then Croatian Airlines to Split. (Just a note...Croatian Airlines is serious about their carry on baggage weight limits so be sure to check it out).
In Split, we stayed at the Peristil Hotel (www.peristil.com). It is a great hotel right in the middle of the Palace walls. It only has 12 rooms. They are somewhat small but very well decorated and the whole hotel is just a gem. The staff is very friendly and the breakfast is great! I would not hesitate to stay there again. Last year, we were at the Split Hotel which was fine but not at all convenient.
We only had a couple of days in Split,and we wanted to see Trogir. Thanks to tips from people in this forum, I chose to go to the regular bus station near the harbor and
take a bus. The trip took about 1/2 hour.
Trogir is just a delight! It is a small walled town with a beautiful harbor. If I ever get back to the area again, I think I would stay there because I liked the quiet and the charm. However, if you plan to do a lot of side trips that involve the ferries, you are better to stay in Split.
Split is really nice. The Diocletian Palace is really interesting, the open market is a lot of fun, and the Riva area is great for people watching.
From Split we took a ferry to Hvar. My information about Hvar will be long so I'll try to put it into sections. We stayed in Hvar for 6 nights.
ACCOMODATION
Last year, I stayed at the Adriatic. This year, most of the hotels are undergoing renovation and I spent a lot of time on the internet to find a private accomodation that would allow me to experience living in the old part of town. My needs are VERY basic. I want something clean, comfortable, good location, and I want a cup of coffee the minute I wake up.
I found the perfect place two streets up from the Palace Hotel. It was a studio apartment with a huge balcony. The website for the studio is www.hvar.hr/badoljo. They also have an apartment so keep scrolling down to the studio. It looks just like the pictures with the exception that the balcony is really large (20'x20"?). The kitchen area has a small frig and freezer and the stove has 2 burners. The view from that balcony was great and it was a terrific place to dry the clothes we washed out. Both the bed and the pull out sofa were very comfortable.
SOME TIPS OF PRIVATE ACCOMODATIONS
I have seen many people trying to figure out how to choose a private accomodation. I suspect most of you are looking at www.hvar.hr for the listings. If you look at the address, you will see that some (not all) have names like Gojava, Podstine, etc. in their address. I'll try to give you an idea of where that is:
If you are looking at the harbor of Hvar from the water, the area furthest north is Podstine. This area has some really nice looking apartments (go to www.hvar-for-the-soul). They say it is a 15 minute walk to the center of town, but I'd add to that. Moving east from Podstine is Majerovica an area near the water that is between the Hotel Croatia and Hotel Amfora. Slightly east of there and up in the hills is Zastup. This area also has some really nice and newer apartments but it is UP in the hills. If you walk the road, it has some terrific views overlooking the harbor!
Right in the center of town are the areas of Gojava, Sv. Marak, Sv. Duh, and Groda. These would be in the hills behind the main street that the Palace is on. Turning south at the Palace and still on the harbor are Sv. Mikula and Kriza. Behind the last two is Bukainka an area in the hills and again, newer apartments. Further south and east are Vrisak, Krizna luka and the furthest point south...Krizni rat.
FOOD
I did not have a bad meal in Hvar. All the restaurants post their menus outside and are in several languages. Regardless of your diet, I don't think anyone would have difficulty in finding what they want.
The restaurant we liked the best because of the food, the atmosphere and the staff was the Palazzo Paladini (go to www.sunnyhvar.com and click on restaurants)
Another one with a great staff and food was Konoba Menego (www.menego.hr).
Others were Villa Dinka in the hills just past Hotel Pharos and near Hotel Amfora, Luna, Pleasant Paradise, and Macondo (well rated for their sea food)
One thing on most menus was something called Mangold. Now I'm not big on vegetables so maybe everyone knows what that is but if not, it is Swiss Chard and potatoes. It was really good!
A typical Croatian food is Burek - a flaky pastry filled with either meat or with cheese and can be purchased at a deli near the open market. The larger grocery store also has a deli.
THE 5 KUNA BATHROOM
I usually avoid public bathrooms at all cost but the one near the church is great if you are going to be in the harbor area most of the day. Cost: 5 kn
JEEP TOUR OF ISLAND
The views on this tour were absolutely outstanding! I had wanted to see parts of the island that I would not have been able to on my own. The first four hours of this tour is great. HOWEVER it should only be a half day tour. The rest of the time was spent at a restaurant where you had to buy your own lunch and much of the time in the afternoon was just wasted. I'd go again to see the views but.......
Ferry to Dubrovnik was about 7 hours but the scenery was just wonderful.
We stayed at the Astarea Hotel in Mlini. I stayed there last year also. Mlini is a small village a few miles from Dubrovnik. The hotel is a large tour bus type hotel. It is adequate but nothing special. Mlini, however, is nice....a couple of restaurants, shops, a beach and easy acess to Dubrovnik or Cavtat by water taxi.
Cavtat is worth a trip. It is again a small and charming town with a nice harbor area and lovely paths for walking along the headlands. Good restaurants and a relaxing atmosphere.
I know this is long, but I also know how time consuming it can be to try to figure out a trip so I hope this helps a little.
We flew from Milwaukee, Wisconsin to Cincinnati and then to Frankfurt on Delta Airlines and then Croatian Airlines to Split. (Just a note...Croatian Airlines is serious about their carry on baggage weight limits so be sure to check it out).
In Split, we stayed at the Peristil Hotel (www.peristil.com). It is a great hotel right in the middle of the Palace walls. It only has 12 rooms. They are somewhat small but very well decorated and the whole hotel is just a gem. The staff is very friendly and the breakfast is great! I would not hesitate to stay there again. Last year, we were at the Split Hotel which was fine but not at all convenient.
We only had a couple of days in Split,and we wanted to see Trogir. Thanks to tips from people in this forum, I chose to go to the regular bus station near the harbor and
take a bus. The trip took about 1/2 hour.
Trogir is just a delight! It is a small walled town with a beautiful harbor. If I ever get back to the area again, I think I would stay there because I liked the quiet and the charm. However, if you plan to do a lot of side trips that involve the ferries, you are better to stay in Split.
Split is really nice. The Diocletian Palace is really interesting, the open market is a lot of fun, and the Riva area is great for people watching.
From Split we took a ferry to Hvar. My information about Hvar will be long so I'll try to put it into sections. We stayed in Hvar for 6 nights.
ACCOMODATION
Last year, I stayed at the Adriatic. This year, most of the hotels are undergoing renovation and I spent a lot of time on the internet to find a private accomodation that would allow me to experience living in the old part of town. My needs are VERY basic. I want something clean, comfortable, good location, and I want a cup of coffee the minute I wake up.
I found the perfect place two streets up from the Palace Hotel. It was a studio apartment with a huge balcony. The website for the studio is www.hvar.hr/badoljo. They also have an apartment so keep scrolling down to the studio. It looks just like the pictures with the exception that the balcony is really large (20'x20"?). The kitchen area has a small frig and freezer and the stove has 2 burners. The view from that balcony was great and it was a terrific place to dry the clothes we washed out. Both the bed and the pull out sofa were very comfortable.
SOME TIPS OF PRIVATE ACCOMODATIONS
I have seen many people trying to figure out how to choose a private accomodation. I suspect most of you are looking at www.hvar.hr for the listings. If you look at the address, you will see that some (not all) have names like Gojava, Podstine, etc. in their address. I'll try to give you an idea of where that is:
If you are looking at the harbor of Hvar from the water, the area furthest north is Podstine. This area has some really nice looking apartments (go to www.hvar-for-the-soul). They say it is a 15 minute walk to the center of town, but I'd add to that. Moving east from Podstine is Majerovica an area near the water that is between the Hotel Croatia and Hotel Amfora. Slightly east of there and up in the hills is Zastup. This area also has some really nice and newer apartments but it is UP in the hills. If you walk the road, it has some terrific views overlooking the harbor!
Right in the center of town are the areas of Gojava, Sv. Marak, Sv. Duh, and Groda. These would be in the hills behind the main street that the Palace is on. Turning south at the Palace and still on the harbor are Sv. Mikula and Kriza. Behind the last two is Bukainka an area in the hills and again, newer apartments. Further south and east are Vrisak, Krizna luka and the furthest point south...Krizni rat.
FOOD
I did not have a bad meal in Hvar. All the restaurants post their menus outside and are in several languages. Regardless of your diet, I don't think anyone would have difficulty in finding what they want.
The restaurant we liked the best because of the food, the atmosphere and the staff was the Palazzo Paladini (go to www.sunnyhvar.com and click on restaurants)
Another one with a great staff and food was Konoba Menego (www.menego.hr).
Others were Villa Dinka in the hills just past Hotel Pharos and near Hotel Amfora, Luna, Pleasant Paradise, and Macondo (well rated for their sea food)
One thing on most menus was something called Mangold. Now I'm not big on vegetables so maybe everyone knows what that is but if not, it is Swiss Chard and potatoes. It was really good!
A typical Croatian food is Burek - a flaky pastry filled with either meat or with cheese and can be purchased at a deli near the open market. The larger grocery store also has a deli.
THE 5 KUNA BATHROOM
I usually avoid public bathrooms at all cost but the one near the church is great if you are going to be in the harbor area most of the day. Cost: 5 kn
JEEP TOUR OF ISLAND
The views on this tour were absolutely outstanding! I had wanted to see parts of the island that I would not have been able to on my own. The first four hours of this tour is great. HOWEVER it should only be a half day tour. The rest of the time was spent at a restaurant where you had to buy your own lunch and much of the time in the afternoon was just wasted. I'd go again to see the views but.......
Ferry to Dubrovnik was about 7 hours but the scenery was just wonderful.
We stayed at the Astarea Hotel in Mlini. I stayed there last year also. Mlini is a small village a few miles from Dubrovnik. The hotel is a large tour bus type hotel. It is adequate but nothing special. Mlini, however, is nice....a couple of restaurants, shops, a beach and easy acess to Dubrovnik or Cavtat by water taxi.
Cavtat is worth a trip. It is again a small and charming town with a nice harbor area and lovely paths for walking along the headlands. Good restaurants and a relaxing atmosphere.
I know this is long, but I also know how time consuming it can be to try to figure out a trip so I hope this helps a little.
May 15th, 2006, 09:23 AM
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I indicated that the Podstine area in Hvar is the furthest north. I meant to say it is the furthest WEST. Also, when I say area....it can be anything from approximately 6-15 city blocks in size.
May 15th, 2006, 09:46 AM
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Hi Salt777:
I was so happy to see your report. I am just back from 2 weeks in France and planning that trip took a lot out of me, so I am way behind on our fall trip to Croatia and Italy. Great details, thanks!
I was so happy to see your report. I am just back from 2 weeks in France and planning that trip took a lot out of me, so I am way behind on our fall trip to Croatia and Italy. Great details, thanks!
May 15th, 2006, 10:10 AM
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Thanks salt777. I've been waiting for your post:
1) As we booked Hotel Croatia, what was your impression re distance from town centre? We're arriving by car.What is the route like from Stari Grad(ferry port) to the hotel & town?
2) Where exactly did the jeep tour take you ? If you had a car, what sites would you have liked to have seen that you couldn't? Can you, therefore suggest( for last week in Sept.)a 3 day itinerary in Hvar?
3) Because we'll be driving to the Split Ferry from Trogir & the ferry leaves for Hvar at 8:30 a.m., what time should we leave Trogir?
4) Trogir restaurant suggestions?
5) Please suggest a good itinerary for
3 1/2 days in Dub.e.g.Mljet?
Cavtat? Lokrum? Montenegro?
6) Dubrovnik Rest'ts?
Thanks once again.
1) As we booked Hotel Croatia, what was your impression re distance from town centre? We're arriving by car.What is the route like from Stari Grad(ferry port) to the hotel & town?
2) Where exactly did the jeep tour take you ? If you had a car, what sites would you have liked to have seen that you couldn't? Can you, therefore suggest( for last week in Sept.)a 3 day itinerary in Hvar?
3) Because we'll be driving to the Split Ferry from Trogir & the ferry leaves for Hvar at 8:30 a.m., what time should we leave Trogir?
4) Trogir restaurant suggestions?
5) Please suggest a good itinerary for
3 1/2 days in Dub.e.g.Mljet?
Cavtat? Lokrum? Montenegro?
6) Dubrovnik Rest'ts?
Thanks once again.
May 15th, 2006, 10:20 AM
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salt777,
Perhaps I am doing something wrong, but the link you give for the hotel in Split leads only to a Croatian tile company.
Also, could you indicate what you paid for each of your accomodations?
Thanks,
Perhaps I am doing something wrong, but the link you give for the hotel in Split leads only to a Croatian tile company.
Also, could you indicate what you paid for each of your accomodations?
Thanks,
May 15th, 2006, 11:04 AM
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salt777,
Thanks for the report. We are going to Croatia in a couple of weeks. All hotels are booked, just working on the nitty-gritty.
Can you recommend any restaurants in Dubrovnik?
Also, we will be going from Dubrovnik to Hvar. Would you recommend the ferry that goes from Dubvonik, or busing up the coast and taking the cat from Split? I've heard it is faster to go to Split and take the passenger only cat, but I'm not sure if it is worth the hassle.
Thank you! And I'm glad to hear you enjoyed your trip.
Thanks for the report. We are going to Croatia in a couple of weeks. All hotels are booked, just working on the nitty-gritty.
Can you recommend any restaurants in Dubrovnik?
Also, we will be going from Dubrovnik to Hvar. Would you recommend the ferry that goes from Dubvonik, or busing up the coast and taking the cat from Split? I've heard it is faster to go to Split and take the passenger only cat, but I'm not sure if it is worth the hassle.
Thank you! And I'm glad to hear you enjoyed your trip.
May 15th, 2006, 12:23 PM
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NUKESAFE
The website is www.hotelperistil.com. I'm sorry. I tried to edit my original report but it must not have gone through for some reason. Be sure to click on the pictures to enlarge them and you may have to double click on the room explanations.
The website is www.hotelperistil.com. I'm sorry. I tried to edit my original report but it must not have gone through for some reason. Be sure to click on the pictures to enlarge them and you may have to double click on the room explanations.
May 15th, 2006, 01:16 PM
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TO: SYL
The walk from Hotel Croatia to the center of town is probably 20 minutes along the shore but there may be a roadway in the hills that is faster. It's hard for me to say because I tend to stroll and stop to look at things.
There are two ways to get to Stari Grad. There is a newer road that goes through a tunnel and it takes about 20 minutes (by bus) to get the the ferry terminal. Last year, we took a bus to the town of Stari Grad (different location than ferry terminal) and it was a winding and more scenic trip that took about 30 minutes. Don't know the names of the roads or how to get to them, however.
The jeep tour took us through about half of the island and up to the highest point. Much of the trip could not be reached with a regular car...tiny gravel roads and not really marked. If I had a car, I would like to have taken more time to explore some of the other small towns and go all the way to the other end of the island. It doesn't sound like you have all that much time tho.
There are about 3 tour agencies in Hvar that offer day trips...one to Korcula, the Blue Cave, Vis, etc. They all go on different days so I would suggest you check those out.
I have traveled a lot, and Hvar is the one place that makes me feel like crying when I have to leave it. I don't really know why. I have been told that in June, July, and August it is wall to wall people, but in May it is just wonderful and September is supposed to be the same. Unless you need constant activity, I think you will just like being there.
Don't know what to tell you about the time to leave Trogir. It was a half hour by bus.
I took the ferry both visits from Hvar to Dubrovnik. The first time was warm and sunny and a wonderful trip. This last time it was overcast and it got rather boring after about 5 hours. Some people we met on our trip last year took the bus and said the scenery was also fantastic.
Dubrovnik is a must see but it has a lot of tourists and you can do Old Town in a day. See what others have said about itineraries and day trips from Dubrovnik. Montenegro is supposed to be a really good trip and I'm sorry I haven't been able to do it.
I know I ate in Dubrovnik but can't remember where.
The walk from Hotel Croatia to the center of town is probably 20 minutes along the shore but there may be a roadway in the hills that is faster. It's hard for me to say because I tend to stroll and stop to look at things.
There are two ways to get to Stari Grad. There is a newer road that goes through a tunnel and it takes about 20 minutes (by bus) to get the the ferry terminal. Last year, we took a bus to the town of Stari Grad (different location than ferry terminal) and it was a winding and more scenic trip that took about 30 minutes. Don't know the names of the roads or how to get to them, however.
The jeep tour took us through about half of the island and up to the highest point. Much of the trip could not be reached with a regular car...tiny gravel roads and not really marked. If I had a car, I would like to have taken more time to explore some of the other small towns and go all the way to the other end of the island. It doesn't sound like you have all that much time tho.
There are about 3 tour agencies in Hvar that offer day trips...one to Korcula, the Blue Cave, Vis, etc. They all go on different days so I would suggest you check those out.
I have traveled a lot, and Hvar is the one place that makes me feel like crying when I have to leave it. I don't really know why. I have been told that in June, July, and August it is wall to wall people, but in May it is just wonderful and September is supposed to be the same. Unless you need constant activity, I think you will just like being there.
Don't know what to tell you about the time to leave Trogir. It was a half hour by bus.
I took the ferry both visits from Hvar to Dubrovnik. The first time was warm and sunny and a wonderful trip. This last time it was overcast and it got rather boring after about 5 hours. Some people we met on our trip last year took the bus and said the scenery was also fantastic.
Dubrovnik is a must see but it has a lot of tourists and you can do Old Town in a day. See what others have said about itineraries and day trips from Dubrovnik. Montenegro is supposed to be a really good trip and I'm sorry I haven't been able to do it.
I know I ate in Dubrovnik but can't remember where.
May 15th, 2006, 03:55 PM
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Your report is timely - we're off to Dubrovnik next week, and booked our trip with Travel Time. Like you, we're flying from Cincy/Frankfurt on Delta, but they changed their departure time, and now we have a misconnect with our Frankfurt/Dubrovnik flight segment, so we had to add Frankfurt/Zagreb/Dubrovnik. How was Croatia airlines? We're only doing southern Dalmatia, but including Altas day trips to both Montenegro and Mostar, which are already booked. Cavtat sounds lovely-restaurant recommendations? Did you take the bus or ferry to get there? Anything else you can share would be welcomed!
May 15th, 2006, 03:56 PM
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Thank you so much for your report! We are leaving mid June for our trip to Croatia. I'm glad to see that there is a day trip to Korcula from Hvar. We're interested in that. Can you rent a jeep or a small car for the day on Hvar? If possible we'd like to do that and tour the island on our own.
Thanks for your help!
Thanks for your help!
May 15th, 2006, 06:48 PM
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Salt777,
Great trip report, thanks! We’ll be in Croatia in Sept and we’ll have 2 full days (with a car) in Hvar. I think we will spend one of them just to explore Hvar town (is that too much?) and the other one to drive around and explore the island. Any recommendations on where to go, what to see?
Thanks a lot
Great trip report, thanks! We’ll be in Croatia in Sept and we’ll have 2 full days (with a car) in Hvar. I think we will spend one of them just to explore Hvar town (is that too much?) and the other one to drive around and explore the island. Any recommendations on where to go, what to see?
Thanks a lot
May 15th, 2006, 11:11 PM
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salt777 --- thank you so much for your report. Its so late right now (midnight) and I just got done with work so I'm excited to read it more thoroughly first thing tomoro.. with my morning coffee. We're leaving on Sunday for Croatia, so your report is perfect timing for me.
May 16th, 2006, 02:54 AM
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To Issy: Whoops. Looks like I answered your question in my reply to Syl.
To Debs: If you go to the harbor in the old town of Dubrovnik, there are a couple of places with water taxi boats to Cavtat. Just check how often they run. On Cavtat, I have eaten at a couple of the restaurants. One was Konoba Toranj and the other was Dalmacija. Both were good, but again, I never really did have a bad meal on my trip and there are many places to choose from.
Croatia Airlines was just fine. They are just a little particular on their weight limits for luggage. I thought it was interesting that passengers give a courteous round of applause when the plane lands.
To: Images 2 and XYZ99
Images 2 - yes, you can rent a car in Hvar. Go to the tourist office to ask the location of the rental agency.
Regarding driving: There is a tourist office in the main square in Hvar that can help you with any driving questions you may have. There is also an excellent website to help you get an idea of what you might want to do. Go to www.hvar.hr and on the left hand column there is an interactive map. Click on it and when it comes up, you can click on each town and it will give you all the information you need.
XYZ99 - When I'm in Hvar I just like to walk all the narrow streets, sit at the cafes and restaurants and go to the NOT TO BE MISSED ice cream store located on the harbor. You can explore the town all day. Everybody travels differently. I could be there for weeks and not see everything I wanted and others can easily do it in a day. Hope you have a great trip.
To Debs: If you go to the harbor in the old town of Dubrovnik, there are a couple of places with water taxi boats to Cavtat. Just check how often they run. On Cavtat, I have eaten at a couple of the restaurants. One was Konoba Toranj and the other was Dalmacija. Both were good, but again, I never really did have a bad meal on my trip and there are many places to choose from.
Croatia Airlines was just fine. They are just a little particular on their weight limits for luggage. I thought it was interesting that passengers give a courteous round of applause when the plane lands.
To: Images 2 and XYZ99
Images 2 - yes, you can rent a car in Hvar. Go to the tourist office to ask the location of the rental agency.
Regarding driving: There is a tourist office in the main square in Hvar that can help you with any driving questions you may have. There is also an excellent website to help you get an idea of what you might want to do. Go to www.hvar.hr and on the left hand column there is an interactive map. Click on it and when it comes up, you can click on each town and it will give you all the information you need.
XYZ99 - When I'm in Hvar I just like to walk all the narrow streets, sit at the cafes and restaurants and go to the NOT TO BE MISSED ice cream store located on the harbor. You can explore the town all day. Everybody travels differently. I could be there for weeks and not see everything I wanted and others can easily do it in a day. Hope you have a great trip.
May 18th, 2006, 06:33 PM
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Thanks/Hvala for the very helpful report.
We are making our second trip to Dalmacija next month, June 06. Our plan is to leave Dubrovnik on Day 3 and drive to Drvenik for the car ferry to Sucuraj, Hvar Island. Then drive west to Hvar Town. Day 7 we car ferry from Stari Grad to Split and visit Trogir and Igrane, then return to Dubrovnik.
I will make notes for a trip report.
These are so helpful.
We are making our second trip to Dalmacija next month, June 06. Our plan is to leave Dubrovnik on Day 3 and drive to Drvenik for the car ferry to Sucuraj, Hvar Island. Then drive west to Hvar Town. Day 7 we car ferry from Stari Grad to Split and visit Trogir and Igrane, then return to Dubrovnik.
I will make notes for a trip report.
These are so helpful.
May 19th, 2006, 02:49 AM
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To mjs -
As far as I know, there is no place to check your luggage on the Dubrovnik/Hvar ferry. Most people just leave it in the large salon area at a table or take it up on the decks and put it in a corner. It is not a problem. When you first get on the ferry, go to the middle section. There is an elevator there that will take you to the salon area or the decks and its a lot easier than climbing stairs with a lot of luggage.
As far as I know, there is no place to check your luggage on the Dubrovnik/Hvar ferry. Most people just leave it in the large salon area at a table or take it up on the decks and put it in a corner. It is not a problem. When you first get on the ferry, go to the middle section. There is an elevator there that will take you to the salon area or the decks and its a lot easier than climbing stairs with a lot of luggage.
May 19th, 2006, 06:06 AM
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salt777,
did you get a good look at Hotel Croatia. We are booked there for July 16-19th. I know Syl, you are staying there too. I booked there based on some of fodors have stayed there and the website looked very nice and the Adriatic our first choice is under renovation.
Has anyone ever stayed there? I wonder why I never read anythiing about it. I guess though all the other hotels are part of that umbrella organization and Hotel Croatia is not??
Anyone with any info , it will be appreciated!
Thanks a mil....
did you get a good look at Hotel Croatia. We are booked there for July 16-19th. I know Syl, you are staying there too. I booked there based on some of fodors have stayed there and the website looked very nice and the Adriatic our first choice is under renovation.
Has anyone ever stayed there? I wonder why I never read anythiing about it. I guess though all the other hotels are part of that umbrella organization and Hotel Croatia is not??
Anyone with any info , it will be appreciated!
Thanks a mil....
May 19th, 2006, 01:25 PM
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Hi Smudge49 - we are doing the EXACT same thing re: ferries and cars in September. I will look forward to your report, can you note the timing of the ferries? I have been trying to read the schedules and am not sure I am getting it right. Also, be careful on the drive from the east side of Hvar Island to Hvar - I have heard it was a wee bit nerve racking. My dear hubby is an intrepid driver so I am not worried about it but some drivers have not cared for that drive.
