Northern Ireland Trip Report
Jun 1st, 2005, 01:54 PM
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Northern Ireland Trip Report
Let me preface this by saying that I'm neither a detail person nor a particularily good writer, however I received lots of help on planning my trip, thanks Helen (Cambe), and wanted to post my report - such as it is - to perhaps help someone else.
I'm a member of the Last Minute Travel Club and every Thursday I get an e-mail with discount flights, on May 12 they had Belfast for $199 CDN (plus taxes of course) leaving the following Thurs. May 19. My husband and I thought about it for all of 10 mins. said "why not" and we were off and running.
Flight: Skyservice from Toronto, your average charter flight. I had neglected to pre-book seats - can't quite get over that one- and even though we got to the airport 3 hrs. ahead we could not get two aisles together, so we sat rows away from each other. My advice - REMEMBER TO PRE-BOOK
Flight was on time and we arrived in Belfast at 8:30 a.m.
Took a taxi to the Europa Hotel - 23GBP
Even though we arrived so early, they let us into our room. We freshened up, then hit the pavement.
We took an open air bus tour of the City, which would have been fabulous had we not gotten pelted with rain every 15 mins. or so, they did supply ponchos though, so we stuck it out. We were drenched, but no big deal.
The tour was interesting and informative, I would have liked to have been more "up" on my history, but with only having a week to prep I didn't get as much reading done as I would have liked. I said to my husband that I was embarassed at both my lack of knowledge and my pre-conceived ideas of the "Troubles".
After the tour, we went and changed into dry clothes and went across the street to the Crown Pub for some sustenance - ok, for a pint - the pub is old, circa 1839 with lots of nooks and crannies. We had a couple and then moved on. We walked around the City Centre, stopping every now and again for refreshment.
We ended up stumbling upon,literally,Nick's Warehouse, recommended by Helen, Thanks, we had excellent food, great service, waitress happened to have a boyfriend from close to where we live. Luckily we were early for the dinner hour, so we were able to get a table. Reasonably priced. We were exhausted, so took a cab back to the hotel, final night cap at the Lobby Bar and in bed by 9:30 p.m.
DAY TWO:
Missed breakfast at the hotel, so just got up and took a cab to the Ulster Museum. It wasn't open until 1:00 (I think), so we walked around the Botanical Gardens and Queens University - both lovely -
We ended up at a restaurant "Rain City Cafe" and went in for Breakfast/Lunch. Had a really good meal. A couple of parties where celebrating first communions, so lots of people and excitement.
Left the restaurant in the pouring rain, I swear I've never seen weather change so fast, sunny one minute, pouring the next. Ran into a corner store to see if they had umbrellas, no luck, so we soldiered on in the rain.
Toured the Ulster Museum which was very good.
We would have liked to spend more time in Belfast, it is a lovely City, but we had to move on.
We got a cab back to the hotel to pick up our bags and then on to the Airport to pick up our rental car. Dan Dooley Car Rental, no problems, they didn't have the car we requested, Toyota automatic mid size, but they gave us a Mini-van type thing, which my husband actually preferred because it sat higher up and he had better vision.
Drive to Derry was easy. Took just over an hour. We found the hotel easily. It was in the City Centre inside the walls, so we just followed the signs to the City Centre and the Diamond.
Hotel was the Tower Hotel, very new and the room was really spacious. Unfortunately, the front desk staff left a lot to be desired. Just not very helpful at all, and indeed were quite skilled at ignoring you. They were all young and I think inexperienced.
After getting settled, we headed out for a walk around the city centre. Most of the stores were closed up for the day.
Popped into the Anchor Bar for a pint, ended up in conversation and stayed for a few. We were directed to a pub that had traditional music on that night, so we planned to go there after dinner.
We tried, unsuccessfully, to find an Italian restaurant that had been recommended by the hotel, so we ended up having dinner at the hotel, bad idea! Headed to Paedre O'Donnels and enjoyed the music and our evening.
DAY THREE
Took another sight seeing bus tour, again interesting and informative, weather was better also.
As it was Sunday, most shops were closed, we didn't want to go into the mall, so we headed up to the Inishowen Peninsula which is in the Republic of Ireland. Lovely drive along the coast. Some lovely little towns, Greencastle and Stoove. Stopped for lunch in Moville and had Banoffee Pie for the first time - excellent. We drove through a hail storm the likes I have never seen before. Lasted 20 mins. and it was so heavy it stayed on the roofs and looked like snow.
That night we tried again to find the new Italian restaurant, I even phoned information but they did not have the listing yet. Tried to follow the directions given by the hotel staff, but no luck. Did happen upon another Italian Restaurant, so ate there instead. Decent meal for a reasonable price.
DAY FOUR
Up and out early. I had to do payroll so found an internet cafe and submitted the payroll on line - the wonders of modern technology. There was a bakery right beside the cafe, so after having sat there for 1/2 hr. smelling the baked goods, I had to go into the bakery. WOW, fabulous treats.
We did some shopping and looking around, we wanted a book on the murals and found one. We also wanted to get a bronze statue of the Hands Across the Divide statue, but no luck, they aren't available. Too bad as we would have liked to add to our collection.
The history in Derry is amazing. The fortitude of the people over the ages is quite inspiring. We walked along the walls, went to St. Colombs Cathedral circa 1608.
Went down to Rossville St to get a better look at the murals we had seen on the bus tour. Saw the Free Derry Sign and the memorial to the Hunger Strikers and the memorial to fallen IRA soldiers who were killed in areas were they can't put plaques. Very disquieting and unsettling.
They are all in perfect condition as they are touched up by the community every year.
We left Derry around 12:00 and headed for Ballycastle our next stop. It was a rainy drive to Coleraine but easy road up the coast to Portrush. Checked out the Royal Portrush Golf Course, as hubby is headed there next year for a golf holiday. Quite different from the manicured courses we are used to.
We went into Bushmills and checked at the Inn to see if they had any cancellations, as this is where we wanted to stay, no luck. We made a dinner reservation. We did the Bushmills Distillery tour, came out and it was a glorious day, stayed that way for the rest of our trip.
For anybody that is still reading, more to come later.
I'm a member of the Last Minute Travel Club and every Thursday I get an e-mail with discount flights, on May 12 they had Belfast for $199 CDN (plus taxes of course) leaving the following Thurs. May 19. My husband and I thought about it for all of 10 mins. said "why not" and we were off and running.
Flight: Skyservice from Toronto, your average charter flight. I had neglected to pre-book seats - can't quite get over that one- and even though we got to the airport 3 hrs. ahead we could not get two aisles together, so we sat rows away from each other. My advice - REMEMBER TO PRE-BOOK
Flight was on time and we arrived in Belfast at 8:30 a.m.
Took a taxi to the Europa Hotel - 23GBP
Even though we arrived so early, they let us into our room. We freshened up, then hit the pavement.
We took an open air bus tour of the City, which would have been fabulous had we not gotten pelted with rain every 15 mins. or so, they did supply ponchos though, so we stuck it out. We were drenched, but no big deal.
The tour was interesting and informative, I would have liked to have been more "up" on my history, but with only having a week to prep I didn't get as much reading done as I would have liked. I said to my husband that I was embarassed at both my lack of knowledge and my pre-conceived ideas of the "Troubles".
After the tour, we went and changed into dry clothes and went across the street to the Crown Pub for some sustenance - ok, for a pint - the pub is old, circa 1839 with lots of nooks and crannies. We had a couple and then moved on. We walked around the City Centre, stopping every now and again for refreshment.
We ended up stumbling upon,literally,Nick's Warehouse, recommended by Helen, Thanks, we had excellent food, great service, waitress happened to have a boyfriend from close to where we live. Luckily we were early for the dinner hour, so we were able to get a table. Reasonably priced. We were exhausted, so took a cab back to the hotel, final night cap at the Lobby Bar and in bed by 9:30 p.m.
DAY TWO:
Missed breakfast at the hotel, so just got up and took a cab to the Ulster Museum. It wasn't open until 1:00 (I think), so we walked around the Botanical Gardens and Queens University - both lovely -
We ended up at a restaurant "Rain City Cafe" and went in for Breakfast/Lunch. Had a really good meal. A couple of parties where celebrating first communions, so lots of people and excitement.
Left the restaurant in the pouring rain, I swear I've never seen weather change so fast, sunny one minute, pouring the next. Ran into a corner store to see if they had umbrellas, no luck, so we soldiered on in the rain.
Toured the Ulster Museum which was very good.
We would have liked to spend more time in Belfast, it is a lovely City, but we had to move on.
We got a cab back to the hotel to pick up our bags and then on to the Airport to pick up our rental car. Dan Dooley Car Rental, no problems, they didn't have the car we requested, Toyota automatic mid size, but they gave us a Mini-van type thing, which my husband actually preferred because it sat higher up and he had better vision.
Drive to Derry was easy. Took just over an hour. We found the hotel easily. It was in the City Centre inside the walls, so we just followed the signs to the City Centre and the Diamond.
Hotel was the Tower Hotel, very new and the room was really spacious. Unfortunately, the front desk staff left a lot to be desired. Just not very helpful at all, and indeed were quite skilled at ignoring you. They were all young and I think inexperienced.
After getting settled, we headed out for a walk around the city centre. Most of the stores were closed up for the day.
Popped into the Anchor Bar for a pint, ended up in conversation and stayed for a few. We were directed to a pub that had traditional music on that night, so we planned to go there after dinner.
We tried, unsuccessfully, to find an Italian restaurant that had been recommended by the hotel, so we ended up having dinner at the hotel, bad idea! Headed to Paedre O'Donnels and enjoyed the music and our evening.
DAY THREE
Took another sight seeing bus tour, again interesting and informative, weather was better also.
As it was Sunday, most shops were closed, we didn't want to go into the mall, so we headed up to the Inishowen Peninsula which is in the Republic of Ireland. Lovely drive along the coast. Some lovely little towns, Greencastle and Stoove. Stopped for lunch in Moville and had Banoffee Pie for the first time - excellent. We drove through a hail storm the likes I have never seen before. Lasted 20 mins. and it was so heavy it stayed on the roofs and looked like snow.
That night we tried again to find the new Italian restaurant, I even phoned information but they did not have the listing yet. Tried to follow the directions given by the hotel staff, but no luck. Did happen upon another Italian Restaurant, so ate there instead. Decent meal for a reasonable price.
DAY FOUR
Up and out early. I had to do payroll so found an internet cafe and submitted the payroll on line - the wonders of modern technology. There was a bakery right beside the cafe, so after having sat there for 1/2 hr. smelling the baked goods, I had to go into the bakery. WOW, fabulous treats.
We did some shopping and looking around, we wanted a book on the murals and found one. We also wanted to get a bronze statue of the Hands Across the Divide statue, but no luck, they aren't available. Too bad as we would have liked to add to our collection.
The history in Derry is amazing. The fortitude of the people over the ages is quite inspiring. We walked along the walls, went to St. Colombs Cathedral circa 1608.
Went down to Rossville St to get a better look at the murals we had seen on the bus tour. Saw the Free Derry Sign and the memorial to the Hunger Strikers and the memorial to fallen IRA soldiers who were killed in areas were they can't put plaques. Very disquieting and unsettling.
They are all in perfect condition as they are touched up by the community every year.
We left Derry around 12:00 and headed for Ballycastle our next stop. It was a rainy drive to Coleraine but easy road up the coast to Portrush. Checked out the Royal Portrush Golf Course, as hubby is headed there next year for a golf holiday. Quite different from the manicured courses we are used to.
We went into Bushmills and checked at the Inn to see if they had any cancellations, as this is where we wanted to stay, no luck. We made a dinner reservation. We did the Bushmills Distillery tour, came out and it was a glorious day, stayed that way for the rest of our trip.
For anybody that is still reading, more to come later.
Jun 1st, 2005, 02:19 PM
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Your report is excellent and quite informative. We are eager to visit NI, but haven't managed to find the time, yet, on any of our trips. Thanks for the insights, though. They will come in handy, once we can make the time.
Bob
Bob
Jun 1st, 2005, 03:27 PM
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Dear jewing, I'm very interested in reading about NI. I also would like to visit. I feel it may be more expensive then the Republic because US dollar is much lower to the pound. I hope you keep writing. Joan
Jun 1st, 2005, 03:59 PM
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We leave for north of Ireland and northern ireland in 12 days, so appreciate your comments. Joan, as far as we can tell, northern ireland is cheaper than ireland even though the pound costs more than the euro - the prices are lower. We have reserved all our hotels ahead, and this seems to be true.
Jun 1st, 2005, 04:12 PM
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Hi Jewing:
I was there right after you. We were in Donegal from the 21st-25th and then Ballycastle on the 26-27.
Joan: Actually the prices aren't rwally that much different in NI than the Republic because GBP prices are genearlly lower than Euro prices. I did a little comparison. Petrol is definitely more expensive at about GBP .85-90 vs. E.99-103. B&Bs are GBP20-25 vs. E32-35 in the Republic so they are a bit cheaper in NI. Stout is a bit less in NI also. Basically it balances out.
Bill
I was there right after you. We were in Donegal from the 21st-25th and then Ballycastle on the 26-27.
Joan: Actually the prices aren't rwally that much different in NI than the Republic because GBP prices are genearlly lower than Euro prices. I did a little comparison. Petrol is definitely more expensive at about GBP .85-90 vs. E.99-103. B&Bs are GBP20-25 vs. E32-35 in the Republic so they are a bit cheaper in NI. Stout is a bit less in NI also. Basically it balances out.
Bill
Jun 1st, 2005, 07:07 PM
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epi and wojazz3, it's good to know the cost is about the same. All of you guys helped me have such a wonderful April trip, I'll wait a few months until I start planning again. Wojazz3, you will have a trip report in the near future,I hope. Again a big thank you for your report, jewing. Joan
Jun 1st, 2005, 08:30 PM
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Jewing-
Wonderful report, I just had a few questions. Do you remember the name of the bakery near the internet cafe? Also, do you remember the name of the Italian restaurant you ate at and approx. how much is was? You said it was decent food for a decent price, just wondering about how much. Thanks.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Wonderful report, I just had a few questions. Do you remember the name of the bakery near the internet cafe? Also, do you remember the name of the Italian restaurant you ate at and approx. how much is was? You said it was decent food for a decent price, just wondering about how much. Thanks.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Jun 2nd, 2005, 07:34 AM
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Thanks for your replies, and for reading.
Mat003, sorry I don't remember the name of the bakery but it is on a street that leads right onto the diamond, about 3 stores down, now having said that there are 4 streets that lead onto the diamond. I will ask my husband for more detailed instructions also for the name of the Italian restaurant, it started with a D, I know that, also will ask how much it cost - he's the money man, I'm just along for the ride! I get us there,choose the itinerary, book the hotels, car etc. he takes over after that.
ON WITH THE STORY
After leaving Bushmills tour we went to the Giants Causeway. It was amazing. Hard to explain, just a fabulous feat of nature. There are a number of different walks you can take, depending on time and your level of fitness I suppose, we walked straight down then walked up the Shepherds Steps, quite a haul, but the weather was great, actually shed a layer or two, and the scenery fantastic.
We were supposed to stay in Ballycastle for two nights and then head for the Ards Peninsula for a day, but since we had done the Bushmills tour and the Giants Causeway we decided to only stay 1 night in that area and then head south. We checked at the Giant's Causeway Hotel, and they had availability so we stayed there.
Went to Bushmills Inn for dinner. We arrived a little early so went to have a drink in the bar/lounge. We were sitting there and they brought us menus, we thought that was a little strange, but read the menus, and the wine list. About 10 mins. later the waiter came and asked for our order. We were a little taken aback, as we were seated at a tiny bar table. We asked "are we meant to eat here?". No thank goodness, they take your order, open your wine, and take you to your table when your food is about to be served. Interesting way of doing things. I must say though, we felt a little rushed, don't think we were being hurried along, just not used to that kind of service.
Food was fabulous. We both had lamb, my husband had the Guinness & Onion Soup, it was excellent. I didn't have a starter in order to leave room for dessert - Sticky Toffee Pudding- out of this world. Now, I must say I make a pretty decent STP, but this was over the top. Glad I saved room! Cost was 70GBP incl. bottle of wine, which is on a par with what we would spend on a comparable meal at home, perhaps even a little less.
We took a little look around the Inn. Lots of different rooms to sit and read or relax, all with peat fireplaces. We both thought it would be a great place to stay in the winter.
Headed back to the hotel, had a nightcap in the hotel bar and then to bed.
DAY FIVE - CARRICKFERGUS
We had breakfast, took a walk along the cliff and then set out along the coastal road for Carrickfergus. We saw signs for the "scenic route" and thought we'd take that. 45 mins. white knuckling it. These were the roads I remember from the driving in the South last year. Windy, narrow, on the edge of the cliff. The scenery was breathtaking.
We passed though Ballycastle and saw the Marine Hotel where we had originally planned on staying, looked very nice.
Went through some lovely seaside villages, Cushendun & Cushendall. The road took us directly on the Irish Sea from there until Lorne.
Arrived in Carrickfergus around 3:00. We saw a hotel on the way into town so got a room at the Coast Road Hotel. Adequate, barely and at 60GBP, overpriced.
We walked around town, very small town centre and not very nice at all. I wanted to move on, but we had already checked into the hotel, so we stayed.
Had a late lunch at the Centre Bar- steak pie and chips, which was quite good.
Toured the Carrickfergus Castle. Very intersting to learn about the construction of a castle.
We stopped at the Joymount Arms for a pint. Asked the waitress if any of the pubs had entertainment, she was very helpful and phoned around for us. The only thing going was a quiz night, coincidentally at our hotel. Our previous experience with a pub quiz in Scotland was less than stellar (our performance) but we decided to give ourselves another shot at it. I'm sorry to say we did no better the second time around. But the quiz master took pity on us and fluffed up our score.
We ate dinner at the hotel before the quiz and it was surprisingly, to me at least, very good. The restaurant overlooked the Belfast Lough, so we had a lovely view from our table.
DAY SIX - DOWNPATRICK & ARDS
Up at 7:30 for breakfast, again excellent food. Headed towards Downpatrick, easy drive took 1 hour.
Went through the St. Patrick Centre. Learned about the life and times of St. P., saw a short movie about places in Ireland where St. P. had visited on a Imax type screen, shot from a helicopter, great views. The Centre we both thought was very well done.
On our way out of the centre we bought a sign for our bar, a collection of celtic knots and 2 hand painted wine goblets, celtic design.
Went into the Down Jeweller, still looking to find a bronze, but came away with a gold celtic cross for myself, all in all a rewarding stop.
Husband needed a pint after shelling out for the cross so we went into Brendans, nice pub.
Drove up the interior coast to Killyleagh. Lovely little village with the oldest inhabited castle in Ireland. We have found that everybody claims to have the oldest something, so not really sure on the validity of the claim.
Had lunch at the Dufferin Arms, husband finally got some seafood chowder - excellent.
Headed now to Portaferry. Took the ferry across from Strangford.
Found the Narrows, checked in, unpacked and went on a bit of a pub crawl.
McNamaras - got a robust welcome when we walked in. Had a conversation about Bruce Springsteen who had played in Dublin the night before. One of the patrons had gone to see the concert.
Coach Inn - family run business for 80 years. 4th generation now running it. Different from most pubs we had been in, very bright, clean and well organized behind the bar.
Fiddlers Green - More like a typical Irish Pub, again a warm welcome as we walked in the door.
I love walking into a place where everybody looks up and greets you, it is just so welcoming. I guess that's why we go to so many pubs when we are in Ireland. That and my husband's penchant for Guinness.
Back to the Narrows to shower and have dinner.
Sorry to say the Narrows restaurant did not live up to our expectations. We had read about it in various literature available and it seemed like a sure fire winner.
The meal was just ok. Nothing wrong with it, but nothing more than average. The service was not very good at all.
Now, in their defence, it was the European Football Championship between Liverpool and Milan, so perhaps the staff's attention wasn't quite up to par.
We went to the pub around the corner to watch the o\t and penaly kicks of the match, quite exciting as Liverpool won after coming back from a 3-0 deficit at half time.
DAY SEVEN - BACK TO BELFAST AIRPORT
Had a typical fry up for breakfast. They had granola and yogurt available, first restaurant to have it on my trip, so I was quite pleased, having had my fill of fry ups.
We walked up to the local bakery for some treats for the road and went into the local newsagent for a paper and it turned out it was also a sweetie shop. Got some Toffee Bon Bons, my all time favourite from my childhood in Scotland.
Headed north on the Peninsula. Saw the usual remains of castles and churches. Passed through a number of samll town and villages on the sea.
Ended up in Donaghadee, walked along the harbour to the Lighthouse.
Walked up the high street and stopped for our obligatory 12:00 pint at Grace Neill's, the oldest pub in Ireland circa 1611. Now this one does happen to be in the Guinness Book of Records, so I believe their claim to be true.
Met a very friendly local and a couple visiting from Sussex. He was a golfer, just off the greens, wearing bright burberry golf pants - let me tell you, he took some ribbing from the locals. We were regaled with golf jokes and stories and it was a fitting end to our holiday.
Headed towards Belfast Airport at around 2:00. Found the way with no trouble. Dropped the car off and they drove us over to the hotel - right on the airport grounds.
We had a bite of supper at the lobby bar then early to bed as we had a 6:00 a.m. wake up call.
We had an uneventful flight home and my husband made his 2:00 p.m. tee off time, so he was happy, exhausted, but happy.
We really enjoyed our trip, and would, without hesitation, recommend a trip to the North. They aren't as tourist or service oriented, but the people are every bit as friendly. The scenery is more "gentle" than the south. Every bit a beautiful, but different. Now we were in the South in March, the wind howling and the Atlantic beating against the rocks at Mizen head, so maybe my memory is skewed. But I would say the North isn't as rugged.
Thanks for reading, and thank you especially to Helen (Cambe) who gave me such great help.
Cheers,
Jane
Mat003, sorry I don't remember the name of the bakery but it is on a street that leads right onto the diamond, about 3 stores down, now having said that there are 4 streets that lead onto the diamond. I will ask my husband for more detailed instructions also for the name of the Italian restaurant, it started with a D, I know that, also will ask how much it cost - he's the money man, I'm just along for the ride! I get us there,choose the itinerary, book the hotels, car etc. he takes over after that.
ON WITH THE STORY
After leaving Bushmills tour we went to the Giants Causeway. It was amazing. Hard to explain, just a fabulous feat of nature. There are a number of different walks you can take, depending on time and your level of fitness I suppose, we walked straight down then walked up the Shepherds Steps, quite a haul, but the weather was great, actually shed a layer or two, and the scenery fantastic.
We were supposed to stay in Ballycastle for two nights and then head for the Ards Peninsula for a day, but since we had done the Bushmills tour and the Giants Causeway we decided to only stay 1 night in that area and then head south. We checked at the Giant's Causeway Hotel, and they had availability so we stayed there.
Went to Bushmills Inn for dinner. We arrived a little early so went to have a drink in the bar/lounge. We were sitting there and they brought us menus, we thought that was a little strange, but read the menus, and the wine list. About 10 mins. later the waiter came and asked for our order. We were a little taken aback, as we were seated at a tiny bar table. We asked "are we meant to eat here?". No thank goodness, they take your order, open your wine, and take you to your table when your food is about to be served. Interesting way of doing things. I must say though, we felt a little rushed, don't think we were being hurried along, just not used to that kind of service.
Food was fabulous. We both had lamb, my husband had the Guinness & Onion Soup, it was excellent. I didn't have a starter in order to leave room for dessert - Sticky Toffee Pudding- out of this world. Now, I must say I make a pretty decent STP, but this was over the top. Glad I saved room! Cost was 70GBP incl. bottle of wine, which is on a par with what we would spend on a comparable meal at home, perhaps even a little less.
We took a little look around the Inn. Lots of different rooms to sit and read or relax, all with peat fireplaces. We both thought it would be a great place to stay in the winter.
Headed back to the hotel, had a nightcap in the hotel bar and then to bed.
DAY FIVE - CARRICKFERGUS
We had breakfast, took a walk along the cliff and then set out along the coastal road for Carrickfergus. We saw signs for the "scenic route" and thought we'd take that. 45 mins. white knuckling it. These were the roads I remember from the driving in the South last year. Windy, narrow, on the edge of the cliff. The scenery was breathtaking.
We passed though Ballycastle and saw the Marine Hotel where we had originally planned on staying, looked very nice.
Went through some lovely seaside villages, Cushendun & Cushendall. The road took us directly on the Irish Sea from there until Lorne.
Arrived in Carrickfergus around 3:00. We saw a hotel on the way into town so got a room at the Coast Road Hotel. Adequate, barely and at 60GBP, overpriced.
We walked around town, very small town centre and not very nice at all. I wanted to move on, but we had already checked into the hotel, so we stayed.
Had a late lunch at the Centre Bar- steak pie and chips, which was quite good.
Toured the Carrickfergus Castle. Very intersting to learn about the construction of a castle.
We stopped at the Joymount Arms for a pint. Asked the waitress if any of the pubs had entertainment, she was very helpful and phoned around for us. The only thing going was a quiz night, coincidentally at our hotel. Our previous experience with a pub quiz in Scotland was less than stellar (our performance) but we decided to give ourselves another shot at it. I'm sorry to say we did no better the second time around. But the quiz master took pity on us and fluffed up our score.
We ate dinner at the hotel before the quiz and it was surprisingly, to me at least, very good. The restaurant overlooked the Belfast Lough, so we had a lovely view from our table.
DAY SIX - DOWNPATRICK & ARDS
Up at 7:30 for breakfast, again excellent food. Headed towards Downpatrick, easy drive took 1 hour.
Went through the St. Patrick Centre. Learned about the life and times of St. P., saw a short movie about places in Ireland where St. P. had visited on a Imax type screen, shot from a helicopter, great views. The Centre we both thought was very well done.
On our way out of the centre we bought a sign for our bar, a collection of celtic knots and 2 hand painted wine goblets, celtic design.
Went into the Down Jeweller, still looking to find a bronze, but came away with a gold celtic cross for myself, all in all a rewarding stop.
Husband needed a pint after shelling out for the cross so we went into Brendans, nice pub.
Drove up the interior coast to Killyleagh. Lovely little village with the oldest inhabited castle in Ireland. We have found that everybody claims to have the oldest something, so not really sure on the validity of the claim.
Had lunch at the Dufferin Arms, husband finally got some seafood chowder - excellent.
Headed now to Portaferry. Took the ferry across from Strangford.
Found the Narrows, checked in, unpacked and went on a bit of a pub crawl.
McNamaras - got a robust welcome when we walked in. Had a conversation about Bruce Springsteen who had played in Dublin the night before. One of the patrons had gone to see the concert.
Coach Inn - family run business for 80 years. 4th generation now running it. Different from most pubs we had been in, very bright, clean and well organized behind the bar.
Fiddlers Green - More like a typical Irish Pub, again a warm welcome as we walked in the door.
I love walking into a place where everybody looks up and greets you, it is just so welcoming. I guess that's why we go to so many pubs when we are in Ireland. That and my husband's penchant for Guinness.
Back to the Narrows to shower and have dinner.
Sorry to say the Narrows restaurant did not live up to our expectations. We had read about it in various literature available and it seemed like a sure fire winner.
The meal was just ok. Nothing wrong with it, but nothing more than average. The service was not very good at all.
Now, in their defence, it was the European Football Championship between Liverpool and Milan, so perhaps the staff's attention wasn't quite up to par.
We went to the pub around the corner to watch the o\t and penaly kicks of the match, quite exciting as Liverpool won after coming back from a 3-0 deficit at half time.
DAY SEVEN - BACK TO BELFAST AIRPORT
Had a typical fry up for breakfast. They had granola and yogurt available, first restaurant to have it on my trip, so I was quite pleased, having had my fill of fry ups.
We walked up to the local bakery for some treats for the road and went into the local newsagent for a paper and it turned out it was also a sweetie shop. Got some Toffee Bon Bons, my all time favourite from my childhood in Scotland.
Headed north on the Peninsula. Saw the usual remains of castles and churches. Passed through a number of samll town and villages on the sea.
Ended up in Donaghadee, walked along the harbour to the Lighthouse.
Walked up the high street and stopped for our obligatory 12:00 pint at Grace Neill's, the oldest pub in Ireland circa 1611. Now this one does happen to be in the Guinness Book of Records, so I believe their claim to be true.
Met a very friendly local and a couple visiting from Sussex. He was a golfer, just off the greens, wearing bright burberry golf pants - let me tell you, he took some ribbing from the locals. We were regaled with golf jokes and stories and it was a fitting end to our holiday.
Headed towards Belfast Airport at around 2:00. Found the way with no trouble. Dropped the car off and they drove us over to the hotel - right on the airport grounds.
We had a bite of supper at the lobby bar then early to bed as we had a 6:00 a.m. wake up call.
We had an uneventful flight home and my husband made his 2:00 p.m. tee off time, so he was happy, exhausted, but happy.
We really enjoyed our trip, and would, without hesitation, recommend a trip to the North. They aren't as tourist or service oriented, but the people are every bit as friendly. The scenery is more "gentle" than the south. Every bit a beautiful, but different. Now we were in the South in March, the wind howling and the Atlantic beating against the rocks at Mizen head, so maybe my memory is skewed. But I would say the North isn't as rugged.
Thanks for reading, and thank you especially to Helen (Cambe) who gave me such great help.
Cheers,
Jane
Jun 2nd, 2005, 09:38 AM
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Hi Jane,
You really did hit very bad weather for May but at least you can say that you had the NI experience of seeing all four seasons in one day!!
I agree with you about 'The Crown' (too dark and dismal for my liking) but it has many followers. Glad you enjoyed Nicks, I have never been disappointed there.
What a same you could not get into the Bushmills Hotel (it's good & not just the food) but I think you did better in the Causeway Hotel rather than the Marine in Ballycastle. When you said you had booked the Marine I was so glad that you had found accommodaton on the North Coast as the Giant's Causway and most of that area are one of NI's most beautiful places (only one, there are others) but I personally don't like Ballycastle and the hotel might look OK from the outside but IMO you were in a better hotel.
Sorry about you bad experience in 'The Narrows' I have never been disapointed but have heard others say it is a bit 'hit and miss'.
Your report has tickled my imaginination as too what I have been missing in Killyleagh! I have decided that the dog and I are off there this weekend to find out (been through it many many times and apart from the castle never saw any reason to stop).
You are quite right that NI isn't as tourist or service orintated as the Republic but we are newer to the business. I personaly don't want it to become too touristy but do think that we could learn a lot from both the Republic and Scotland in terms of service.
I am so glad you enjoyed your trip and hope you will come back again. I have lots of places to recommend (The Mournes are wonderful and as you like museums, the Lisburn Museum which tells the history of Irish Linen is tremendous)
Thanks for a wonderful trip report
Helen
You really did hit very bad weather for May but at least you can say that you had the NI experience of seeing all four seasons in one day!!
I agree with you about 'The Crown' (too dark and dismal for my liking) but it has many followers. Glad you enjoyed Nicks, I have never been disappointed there.
What a same you could not get into the Bushmills Hotel (it's good & not just the food) but I think you did better in the Causeway Hotel rather than the Marine in Ballycastle. When you said you had booked the Marine I was so glad that you had found accommodaton on the North Coast as the Giant's Causway and most of that area are one of NI's most beautiful places (only one, there are others) but I personally don't like Ballycastle and the hotel might look OK from the outside but IMO you were in a better hotel.
Sorry about you bad experience in 'The Narrows' I have never been disapointed but have heard others say it is a bit 'hit and miss'.
Your report has tickled my imaginination as too what I have been missing in Killyleagh! I have decided that the dog and I are off there this weekend to find out (been through it many many times and apart from the castle never saw any reason to stop).
You are quite right that NI isn't as tourist or service orintated as the Republic but we are newer to the business. I personaly don't want it to become too touristy but do think that we could learn a lot from both the Republic and Scotland in terms of service.
I am so glad you enjoyed your trip and hope you will come back again. I have lots of places to recommend (The Mournes are wonderful and as you like museums, the Lisburn Museum which tells the history of Irish Linen is tremendous)
Thanks for a wonderful trip report
Helen
