Feb. 15, we checked in at the Nashville airport around 1:00pm, more than two hours prior to our flight¡¦s scheduled departure for Newark, and were informed that the flight was running late due to a mechanical problem; we would likely miss our connection to Belfast. With only one flight a day to Belfast, we¡¦d have to wait until 8:00pm the following evening to leave Newark! There were no other options. I¡¦d love to say that I remained perfectly calm and serene, but the truth is that I was stressed and the following several hours seemed interminable. The plane finally arrived and our flight took off more than an hour late bound for Newark. We were told there was probably a 50/50 chance that we would make our connection -- and if we were incredibly lucky, our luggage might do so as well. Good news . . . when our flight landed in Newark, the connecting flight to Belfast had not yet taken off. It was in the process of boarding as we rushed through the terminal. We made it! There¡¦s nothing like a little drama to start off a trip.

We were surprised at how small the plane was; my previous transatlantic flights had always been in wide-body mega-planes. The small plane was packed but the flight was uneventful. By the time dinner was served and the lights were finally dimmed we managed about 90 minutes of sleep before being woken for breakfast -- more than an hour and a half before landing in Belfast. I was surprised to find it still dark out at 7:30am.

Our luggage came through quickly and we easily rented the car I¡¦d booked with Europcar. I¡¦d done lots of shopping around and they offered the best rate, allowing me to waive their CDW insurance and be covered (with no deductible) by my credit card. The only thing I had failed to factor in was that my partner would not be covered by the credit card¡¦s insurance. We were exhausted and it was getting complicated and potentially quite expensive (if we added the ¡§no excess waiver¡§ for my partner), so we decided I would be the sole driver, saving $9/day ¡§additional driver fee¡¨ plus the additional fee for insurance in the process.

When we picked up the car we found we¡¦d been upgraded to a VW Golf, which was a good thing because it would have been a struggle to squeeze all of our luggage into the smaller car I¡¦d booked. (I pack light, but in addition to our clothes, we were traveling with a guitar and a huge suitcase filled with materials needed for the music conference I¡¦d be attending following the ¡§holiday¡§ portion of the trip.)

Now, before I begin describing Ireland, some comments about my experience driving. One of my biggest decisions prior to the trip was whether to rent a car or rely on buses, guided tours and other public transportation. After posting and reading other related posts I decided to rent a car. For me, it was definitely the right decision. I could never have done the trip I did otherwise. BUT . . . driving was VERY stressful. I drive a manual at home, so driving a stick shift and having it be on the left was not a big issue for me. But I found it challenging (to put it mildly) to judge the distance correctly from the ¡§wrong¡¨ side of the road and it was made much worse by driving in lanes that were considerably narrower than I¡¦m used to in the U.S.

When driving on the major motorways (such as M1, M2) it was easy . . . but that was rare--less than 10 percent of the time--and if I¡¦m to be honest, I was tense almost all of the time I was behind the wheel. Most of my time was spent driving on small winding roads (¡§wee roads¡¨) that were well-kept--but my heart leapt into my throat each time an oncoming car (or God forbid, a bus!) came zooming toward me from the other direction.

There were several instances of terribly confusing road signs and detours, but the hardest thing to deal with behind the wheel were the roundabouts. It was incredibly difficult for me to simultaneously drive safely, be cognizant of traffic entering the roundabout from the ¡§wrong¡¨ side, stay in one lane, AND figure out where I was supposed to get off. As others have previously said, for me, it was crucial to have a ¡§navigator,¡§ (my partner) watching the signs, reminding me to look to the right for oncoming traffic, telling me where to pull off, and shrieking when I got too close to one side or the other.

The only thing that made the driving tolerable was that there was so little traffic. The initial twenty or thirty minutes as I navigated the busy, confusing area surrounding airport, encountered my first roundabouts, and adjusted to driving--all while utterly exhausted--were very frightening. To reiterate, for me, driving was a necessary part of the kind of trip I wanted -- but I was very nervous for most of the first four or five days. Enough about the driving . . .

After a very tense 90 minute drive, we gratefully pulled into our self-catering cottage at Limepark, (www.limepark.com) just outside of the tiny village of Armoy. The cottage looked incredible on the Internet--and it did not disappoint. It is often used as an artists¡¦ retreat and was FANTASTIC. I could go on and on; built in the early 1700¡¦s, the four cottages on the premises have been faithfully restored using original materials and combined a rustic, ¡§authentic¡¨ experience with modern conveniences. Staying there added tremendously to the trip and I¡¦d highly recommend it--but I believe it¡¦s already booked through September, although they hope to open two additional cottages that are currently being renovated.

For us, self-catering was perfect. We loved having our own quaint little house to come home to. After long days of sightseeing, it was bliss to pick up some fresh, hearty food at a local market en route home and dine by candlelight in the upstairs sitting room, in front of a roaring fire.

The pictures online didn¡¦t show the setting so it was a wonderful bonus to find that our cottage overlooked endless picture-postcard rolling hills and pastures. We were greeted by three exceptionally friendly horses and a Shetland pony, as well as a menagerie of chickens--heaven for an animal-loving city boy like me. It was drizzling, cold, gray and cloudy, as I¡¦d expected Ireland would be in February. After a brief introduction and tour of the premises by our very sweet hosts (Melanie and John) we collapsed for several hours.

I was incredibly relieved that I hadn¡¦t bashed in the car, lost a side mirror, or killed any people (or animals) driving from the airport, and I dreaded pushing my luck by getting back into the car. But . . . the sun was starting to peek through the clouds and I was eager to see all the places I¡¦d planned for and obsessed about for months. So, we headed for Ballycastle--about six miles away.

It was love at first sight; for me, Ballycastle is the quintessential Irish town. I was charmed by the architecture, the churches, and the colorful, quaint little shops--and no Starbuck¡¥s or McDonald¡¥s. It was a perfect base for exploring the spectacular Antrim coast. As we strolled toward the sea, I wasn¡¦t prepared for the views. Rathin Island was in the distance, across the sea, and Fair Head jutted out dramatically, framing the coastline. WOW!

Armoy has a small market that carries the essentials, a pub, and a post office, but nearby Ballycastle had a wide selection of restaurants and larger markets. We found a fantastic bakery and stocked up on addictive potato farls, steak pies, Cornish pasties, and scones. At the market we bought salads, fruits, and fresh sliced deli meats and cheeses, and had a lovely picnic in front of the fireplace back in our cottage. Limepark¡¦s owners offered us a tour of the other cottages because they would all be occupied by the following day. Each one had its own character and was wonderful. We¡¦d reserved the Blacksmith¡¦s cottage (bedroom, bathroom, and eat-in kitchen on the ground floor; spacious sitting room (with two futons, writing desk, dining area, and fireplace) upstairs. It had been inhabited by a blacksmith almost 300 years ago -- and we got a tour of his workshop (right next to our cottage) with original tools and equipment intact. My favorite cottage was probably Ned¡¦s Loft but any of them would be fine.

We¡¦d gotten there and survived our first day! I slept like a rock and was ready to hit the road bright and early. Rather than try to recount the trip a day at a time I¡¦ll simply mention highlights. I quickly learned that (IMHO) one does not visit Northern Ireland for the attractions--N. Ireland, with its spectacular scenery, IS the attraction. We had incredibly good luck with the weather; while the Internet forecast prepared me for rain, rain, and more rain . . . we had six consecutive days of bright sunshine--made even brighter by being such an unexpected treat. It was cold (mid-40s) but unless the wind kicked up, it really was pleasant. The first several days were spent driving along the coast taking turn offs to explore and walk along one after another stretch of truly spectacular scenery.

When I began planning this trip, I¡¦d posted questions asking whether I should be driving to the Dingle Peninsula, Ring of Kerry, and the other typical tourist spots one hears about in the Republic. Luckily, I took the advice offered by Helen and others to explore the North--the Antrim coast and the Glens. I¡¦ve been to the Dingle Peninsula and drove the entire west coast of the Republic many years ago -- and this was every bit as spectacular--if not more so.

It¡¦s hard to imagine views more beautiful than driving the Torr Head road. But be forewarned¡Xthe locals referred to it as the ¡§wee¡¨ road ¡V and to call it narrow, twisting, and winding would be understatements. Definitely NOT recommended for squeamish drivers (or passengers) but utterly spectacular. At one point, Scotland was only twelve miles away and could be seen across the sea.

Ballintoy Harbour was absolutely GORGEOUS and of course, having bright sun illuminating the cliffs and the dramatic, rocky shoreline only added to the remarkable beauty. We walked along the sheep-strewn path and explored a neat cave before coming out at Whitepark Bay. Other amazing views were to be had at Murlough Bay, where cows grazed atop the cliffs overlooking take-your-breath-away scenery. I knew that the Carrick-a-Rede Bridge would be closed during the winter, but stopped there to see the area. Once again--AMAZING views. We walked along the pathways taking picture after picture hardly believing how fantastic it was.

The tiny side road to Kinbane Castle led us through fields dotted with sheep against a backdrop of sparkling blue ocean. There was very little left to the castle but the setting was beautiful. As I wandered up the road for a perfect photo of the sheep, a truck with two elderly farmers (who had a total of about five teeth between them) stopped me just because they wanted to chat. They looked as if they¡¦d stepped out of a movie--or my imagination--and we had a delightful conversation that might have lasted all afternoon if I hadn¡¦t been eager to continue sightseeing.

Dunluce Castle was a highlight among highlights for me. But be forewarned--if I¡¦d blinked I¡¦d have missed the sign for the turnoff. The sun was just beginning its descent as we pulled into the empty parking lot. (There were rarely more than a few other tourists at any of the places we stopped and in some instances, we had entire stretches of coastline to ourselves.) The castle and gift shop had just closed for the day but we were able to explore the grounds. I¡¦d read that a portion of the castle had fallen into the sea--along with the servants who happened to be in that section back in the 1600¡¥s. The castle and the cliffs on which it is perched were illuminated in deep golden tones as the sun set, making my pictures spectacular. FYI, Dunluce Castle is near Bushmill¡¦s but we decided to skip the distillery tour because we don¡¦t drink whiskey or care much about it, but others we spoke with enjoyed the tour.

The Giant¡¦s Causeway, like everything else we were seeing, far exceeded expectations. Similar to the castle, we arrived late in the afternoon as the sun cast the most beautiful glow on the cliffs and the water. (My pictures are AMAZING and I hope to soon post a link to them.) In addition to the fascinating natural phenomenon itself, the setting was fantastic--with huge waves crashing on the rocks.

We¡¦d spent several days gawking at the spectacular scenery along the coast and decided it was time for a change of pace, so we headed for the Glens of Antrim, stopping first in Cushendun, a pretty little town where we had a lovely walk, beachcombing along the shore. If there were other things to see or do--I missed them.

Cushendall was a bit of a disappointment; not quite the charming, quaint little village I¡¦d expected, but a few streets with nondescript stores and a couple of attractive churches. Its main attraction, the Curfew Tower was not exactly impressive. It seemed to be the meeting spot for bored, tough teenaged boys to congregate. The highlight of Cushendun was visiting the ruins of the old Layd Church and its graveyard (among the oldest in Ireland). The setting (again, overlooking the ocean) was absolutely beautiful and we thoroughly enjoyed the ruins and the intricately carved Celtic crosses that marked many of the graves. Note that this is not to be confused with the new Layd church. I found the new church first and took lots of pix thinking it was the oldest church in Ireland¡Xand wondering why it didn¡¦t look very old! ƒº

I¡¦d read that Glenariff was the ¡§Queen¡¨ of the Glens and it did not disappoint. The Glenariff Forest Park was nothing short of spectacular. We picnicked in one of the most picturesque spots imaginable and then walked the two mile ¡§waterfall trail.¡¨ True to its name, the trail led us through the forest passing a series of fantastic waterfalls. There were nonstop ¡§Kodak moments.¡§ It was one of the colder days of our trip and we were thrilled to find the Manor Lodge in the midst of the forest trail where we could warm up with a cup of tea in front of a fire. Once again, a wonderful day of scenery that far exceeded anything I¡¦d imagined.

We decided to brave the two hour drive to spend a day visiting Derry (or Londonderry, depending on which side of the fence you¡¦re on). By the way, as others have posted, it seemed to take twice as long to get anywhere as I would have anticipated, due to detours, winding, impossibly narrow, 30 mph roads, and getting lost. The drive to Derry was exceptionally nerve-wracking (and believe me, driving had been tense for me everywhere I¡¦d gone.) I thought I¡¦d faint when I paid sixty dollars for a half tank of gas! Pulling into the city was quite confusing and I couldn¡¦t figure out which way to go or where to park. We drove, searching for the Workhouse Museum, to no avail. We finally pulled into a shopping mall¡¦s parking lot and, with my nerves raw from the driving, grabbed a quick lunch before wandering through the city. I found the architecture and shops quite interesting; my partner thought Derry was only ¡§okay,¡¨ but admitted that it might have been because we¡¦d been seeing such incredible scenery¡Xand this was a ¡§city.¡¨ We walked the walls that surround the center of the city and visited the beautiful Guild House, as well as several exceptional churches.

But our primary reason to visit Derry was to see the elusive Workhouse Museum. We got directions from the equally elusive Tourist Center. (It seemed the signs pointed wrong ways or were confusing and everything was difficult for us to find, both on foot and in the car.) The Workhouse Museum was sadly disappointing. It could easily be seen in five minutes and while I appreciated being in an actual former workhouse, I wished for far more detailed explanations. Leaving Derry, I saw my first reminder that I was in a country healing from ¡§The Troubles.¡¨ A billboard-sized political mural proclaimed ¡§Londonderry West Bank Loyalists. Still under siege ¡V no surrender.¡¨

After a wonderful week, we sadly bid a fond farewell to our cottage and our hosts, and headed for Belfast, with a stop en route at Carrickfergus to see the castle. The castle is the best preserved Norman castle and is exceptionally well preserved. It was the coldest, windiest day of our trip and despite our layers of clothing, the damp wind was stinging our faces and our gloved hands were freezing. It wasn¡¦t much fun exploring the outside of the castle in that weather. I felt the displays were more appropriate for children, with mannequins and other embellishments that for me, detracted from the sense of being in an authentic medieval castle and felt more like a theme park. But while it wasn¡¦t a highlight, I enjoyed the castle.

The ride to Carrickfergus and Belfast was especially frustrating, with an unmarked detour and a poorly marked exit. We drove about 20 miles out of the way before backtracking. But in retrospect, we were often frustrated and nervous while driving -- but were rarely lost. We managed to find Belfast¡¦s city center and gratefully pulled out of the traffic and into a parking space. We returned the car and were able to walk most places. A couple of times, we took taxis. We were provided with an attractive room at the Belfast Hilton where much of the festival was being held. I had no complaints; the hotel was very nice--but personally, I¡¦d prefer a quaint little B&B. It was a convenient location--five minutes¡¦ walk to the City Hall area and just across the street from St. George¡¦s market.

Much of our time in Belfast was spent at workshops and concerts involving the Belfast/Nashville Songwriting Festival and parties at the organizers¡¦ beautiful homes. The people we met all through Ireland were exceptionally warm, friendly, and delightful.

During our five days in Belfast we managed to squeeze in most of the main tourist sights. City Hall is one of the most beautiful buildings I¡¦ve ever seen (both inside and out) and following a reception and tea with the Lord Mayor, he gave us a tour of the City Hall, including the chambers that house the chairs where Queen Mary and King George V sat during their visit in 1921. The Lord Mayor presented us with beautiful commemorative coins.

The old buildings surrounding the City Hall are fantastic. We enjoyed just strolling the streets, craning our necks to gawk at the old buildings, and visiting the Crown Liquor Saloon, the Botanic Garden, Ulster Museum, Queen¡¦s University, the leaning clock tower, and the waterfront. A definite highlight was soaking up the atmosphere while eating our way through the colorful Friday and Saturday morning markets at St. George¡¦s. I enjoyed the city, but prefer the countryside. If I were planning a vacation trip and wanted to see the city, I¡¦d probably schedule 2 or 3 days at the most. I would have liked to visit the Folk Park and Belfast Castle, as well as the Mourne Mountain area. That¡¦ll be for next year. I can hardly wait!

So, what about ¡§The Troubles¡§? I felt 100% safe at all times. I saw the murals in the Shankhill Road area and found them fascinating as a bit of recent history--but the violence is definitely a thing of the past. I had many stimulating discussions about the political situation and my favorite comment was, ¡§If you¡¦re not confused, you¡¦re not in Ireland.¡¨ Ironically, while we were in the notorious north, synonymous with ¡§The Troubles,¡¨ there was a riot in Dublin¡Xin the supposedly safe Republic!

Bottom line: I had a fantastic time and found Northern Ireland every bit as gorgeous as the Republic in the south¡Xif not more so. I feel as if I¡¦ve found a hidden secret and I hope others will discover this gorgeous country. I¡¦ve returned addicted to potato farls, scones, Ulster fry (for breakfast), and wheaten bread. I guess it¡¦s time to end because I¡¦ve run out of superlatives. Again, thank you so much, to those who advised me along the way.

PS. It¡¦s amazing how quickly a transatlantic flight goes by when one types a trip report on their laptop!

Thanks for the report I've read very few reports about N. Ireland here and yours is a real gem. Be sure to "top" this in the morning so the daytime Fodorites get a chance to read it

As someone who grew up in Northern Ireland and now lives in the USA it was great to read such a positive report about Northern Ireland. It reminded me of all the places I had visited as a child and where I need to bring my own kids now. I miss the poatato farls/bread so much !!!

Thanks for great report on Northern Ireland...My Mother was Black Irish and I too wanted to visit the land where my family had originated..(Scotch-Irish)..of course we were told straight away that they had come with Cromwell and had as much right to the land as anyone! Longer, BTW, than we had been in America!
We had a great visit too!

Songdoc:
I really enjoyed your trip report. My family and I are planning another trip to Ireland and we are interested in Northern Ireland. You have inspired me to visit. Thanks again for taking the time to post your report.

Thanks for a great report with very helpful details. Sorry to hear about the driving, but your writing style made me think that despite the stress, a sense of humor kept it in perspective

Songdoc,

your great trip report really put me there; thanks so much for that! Also, now I am more eager than ever to explore the north (having been in the southwest and west).

I am debating whether to pay the large increase to rent an automatic car - we all drive standards at home -- would you say that if you had an automatic it would have reduced the stress much? You really have to pay quite a bit more for the automatic.

Meommy- for me personally, having the gear shift on the left was the least of my concerns because I drive a manual all the time at home. But if I were not used to driving a stick shift, that one additional thing to think about might have put me over the edge (literally!!!)

But yes, it certainly is much more expensive to rent an automatic. I'd also recommend getting the smallest car that will accomodate your luggage. Those lanes are SOOOO narrow.

By the way, I learned that "shifting" has a sexual connotation in Ireland! After several smirks, I was advised to refer to it as "changing gears".

Hi Songdoc,

What a lovely trip report. I am so glad you enjoyed your trip to NI and hope the Festival was a sucess.

I have recommeded Limepark to some relatives visiting from England in August. I feel much better about it now having read your report. One never knows if the place will live up to the description on the website but this one sounds like it did.

I have never liked Ballycastle and always bypass it on my way to the North Coast. I think it is time I paid it a visit!!

You were certainly very lucky with the weather. There has been so little rain this winter they are talking about a water shortage - In Ireland!!!

Hope you will return and the Mountains of Mourne won't disappoint.

Helen

Songdoc, Thanks for the very interesting report. I have been to No. Ireland lots and agree with you wholeheartedly that it is a fabulous place to visit. Too many tourists are scared away by news reports. They shouldn't be. It is one of the most beautiful and peaceful places (especially the countryside).

For your next trip you must put on your list:

Mount Stewart House & Gardens
Ards Peninsula
Downpatrick
Enniskillen
Ulster American Folk Park
Hillsborough
Ulster Folk & Transport Museum

And all the houses, castles, caves, islands, parks, etc. in those areas.

Has the path down to Kinbane Castle been repaired? Last time I was there it was closed due to erosion.

Sorry it's taken me so long to respond; it's been crazy trying to catch up on two weeks of work – and I leave again in another ten days! (Just a boring work trip.)

Helen, your cousins will LOVE Limepark. I've finally posted my favorite pictures at: http://photobucket.com/albums/f391/JBSongdoc/ and there are quite a few pictures of the cottages and surroundings. Tell them to let Melanie know that Songdoc sent them.

Re: Kinbane Castle . . . the path is blocked with a warning sign, but several others were exploring, so being typical tourists, we walked the path, as well. It seemed to be fine and we were rewarded with spectacular views.

Songdoc,

Thanks for the info on Kinbane Castle. Last time I was there there was a fence blocking access with a warning sign saying something about erosion. Did you go through the fence? Were the stone steps washed away? Is it just a dirt trail now? Was it real steep? Appreciate any info. I might do the same next time.

IrishEyes - Yes, I went through the fence. I think the trail was mostly gravel and there were stone steps remaining. We went most of the way down and decided we were close enough to enjoy the views. It was somewhat steep but nothing that felt too difficult or dangerous. Go for it!

Songdoc, Thanks for the additional info. Sounds like some of the steps have been washed away. When I was there last stone steps went all the way down to the beach. Even though there is not much left of the castle it is worth exploring. Very scenic. I will put it on my list for next time.

Enjoyed the trip report. Your pictures are quite good.

I'm looking at europecar for a 2-week rental. Would you recommend them? Any hidden fees or anything you hadn't expected? I'm hoping to use the CDW from my plat. MC--did you have to get a letter from MC or anything saying you were covered? I learned to drive a stick and have driven one for the last 6-7 years so I'm acutally excited about driving stick in a different country! I'm flying into Shannon, so hopefully it will be a little less hectic at first! Great report-makes me so excited to go!!

Hi Chemgirl -
No problems or additional charges with Europcar. I requested and received a written statement re: my platinum MC coverage -- but it was not asked for when I rented the car and declined the CDW.

The only thing I hadn't thought about was that an additional driver would not be covered by my credit card coverage. I was exhausted and it was seeming complicated so we decided I'd be the only driver. If you anticipate having an additional driver (for which there is an additional fee) you might want to see if he or she would be covered--and work that out in advance.

Just be prepared that (at least for me) the driving was nerve-wracking much of the time. The stick shift was the very least of my concerns--the extremely narrow roads and judging the distance from the "wrong" side made me nervous. But would I do it again? In a heartbeat! I'm ready to go back--and I've only been home two weeks.

I hope you have a great trip.