Madrid and Málaga: a trip report on how I cam to love the two places I disliked
Aug 11th, 2006, 12:24 PM
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Madrid and Málaga: a trip report on how I cam to love the two places I disliked
I returned to Barcelona yesterday after a wonderful vacation/work trip. The itinerary was initially:
Friday 28/7-Monday 7/8 in Málaga, then 7-10/8 in Madrid.
I spent the 28-30 in Barcelona, grounded by the Iberia strike. Those were a few harrowing hours of Hell. Then I realized that even though I live here, I can still vacation as well, so on the 29th I hit the beach all day with my water, music and a book, then took a friend out to a fancy dinner using my Barcelonagusto card, which gets you 50% off at select restaurants.
I arrived to Málaga on the 29th around noon and Ramón picked me up and took me home where his wife Elvira was waiting for me. These are two very good friends of mine and the protagonists of my wonderful time in Málaga.
Ramón and I were both exhausted (me from being up very late and going to the airport very early, him from having spent the entire night at a flamenco festival, then going from there to pick me up at the airport), so Elvira insisted we get in the car and drive around Málaga to stay awake and get me used to the city again. We drove up to the Alcazába and took in the view, then drove along the beach, onto the small streets of old downtown, then back down the Alameda and to their apartment (right behind the train station). The drive was so lovely and I started wondering why I so disliked Málaga.
Lunch (Artichoke and Jibia stew) and then naps all around. Then we got up, had tea, and headed out to meet a friend of theirs who was visiting from Siberia. I found myself at 9 pm sitting at an outside table in the outskirts of Málaga chatting with my hosts and a Siberian woman about our various travels and lives. We had fried fish, pinchos morunos, pipirrana (fish and vegetable salad), and tintos de verano (red wine and sweet soda water). Towards the end of the meal I was actually quite chilly. Málaga is much cooler than BCN, and far less humid.
Monday was a long and wonderful day. I spent the morning with Elvira's mother (also named Elvira) talking about all kinds of things. She is 80 and extremely talkative. She asked me a lot about the US, and we spent about 4 hours talking until she sent me down to the store because her back hurt. Ramón called me home by saying "be here in 20 minutes if you want to go have lunch in Casabermeja with Pepe, Laura, and a famous jazz musician (will remain unnamed). Of course, I am a huge fan of this guy (as is my dad who later freaked out about my meeting him), so I ran home and we were on the road, stopping to purchase black beans, plantains, yuca, chicken and rice so that the musicial could make us a Puerto Rican meal. From the store we picked up Alvarez, a fantastic and completely unmarketed flamenco singer (he has 12 daughters and only one tooth, just so you get an idea of this character), and set of for Casabermeja. On the way we stopped at a large farmhouse and for a split second (and knowing Alvarez), I thought we might be buying some amount of drugs. But no, we went inside and upstairs where the owner has turned the three large rooms into an aviary. Alvarez, after an exceptional experience inside the aviary, bought 2 canaries and we continued to the party.
We all headed down to Pepe and Laura's bodega, which is an exceptional place. It looks like the bar at a nice restaurant:. full bar with tub freezers, taps and ice machine, stools, and a few tables with wooden chairs. The sound system is awesome and they have a portable stage for flamenco performers who often stay with them while on tour. After meeting the musician, he headed for the kitchen and emerged 4 hours later (7pm. . . the latest I have ever waited for comida) with roasted chicken, black beans, rice, mashed yuca, tostones (fried plantains) and a lemon carrot sauce for them. Of course, I had spent the previous four hours drinking Havana Club rum and cokes, so I was pretty drunk, as were most of the attendees.
After the meal, we moved the tables and had a fiesta flamenca with a circle clapping and singing while people get up and improv a dance (we only did bulerías this time). In the middle, I got up to go to the bathroom and opened the door only to find the musician shooting up, something I had never seen so up close in the flesh.
We headed back to Málaga at 10 and were home by 11. It was incredibly hot, so we just went to bed and in the morning, as it was hotter still, Elvira and Ramón woke me up saying "grab your suit, we are going to the beach house today."
More to come. . .
Friday 28/7-Monday 7/8 in Málaga, then 7-10/8 in Madrid.
I spent the 28-30 in Barcelona, grounded by the Iberia strike. Those were a few harrowing hours of Hell. Then I realized that even though I live here, I can still vacation as well, so on the 29th I hit the beach all day with my water, music and a book, then took a friend out to a fancy dinner using my Barcelonagusto card, which gets you 50% off at select restaurants.
I arrived to Málaga on the 29th around noon and Ramón picked me up and took me home where his wife Elvira was waiting for me. These are two very good friends of mine and the protagonists of my wonderful time in Málaga.
Ramón and I were both exhausted (me from being up very late and going to the airport very early, him from having spent the entire night at a flamenco festival, then going from there to pick me up at the airport), so Elvira insisted we get in the car and drive around Málaga to stay awake and get me used to the city again. We drove up to the Alcazába and took in the view, then drove along the beach, onto the small streets of old downtown, then back down the Alameda and to their apartment (right behind the train station). The drive was so lovely and I started wondering why I so disliked Málaga.
Lunch (Artichoke and Jibia stew) and then naps all around. Then we got up, had tea, and headed out to meet a friend of theirs who was visiting from Siberia. I found myself at 9 pm sitting at an outside table in the outskirts of Málaga chatting with my hosts and a Siberian woman about our various travels and lives. We had fried fish, pinchos morunos, pipirrana (fish and vegetable salad), and tintos de verano (red wine and sweet soda water). Towards the end of the meal I was actually quite chilly. Málaga is much cooler than BCN, and far less humid.
Monday was a long and wonderful day. I spent the morning with Elvira's mother (also named Elvira) talking about all kinds of things. She is 80 and extremely talkative. She asked me a lot about the US, and we spent about 4 hours talking until she sent me down to the store because her back hurt. Ramón called me home by saying "be here in 20 minutes if you want to go have lunch in Casabermeja with Pepe, Laura, and a famous jazz musician (will remain unnamed). Of course, I am a huge fan of this guy (as is my dad who later freaked out about my meeting him), so I ran home and we were on the road, stopping to purchase black beans, plantains, yuca, chicken and rice so that the musicial could make us a Puerto Rican meal. From the store we picked up Alvarez, a fantastic and completely unmarketed flamenco singer (he has 12 daughters and only one tooth, just so you get an idea of this character), and set of for Casabermeja. On the way we stopped at a large farmhouse and for a split second (and knowing Alvarez), I thought we might be buying some amount of drugs. But no, we went inside and upstairs where the owner has turned the three large rooms into an aviary. Alvarez, after an exceptional experience inside the aviary, bought 2 canaries and we continued to the party.
We all headed down to Pepe and Laura's bodega, which is an exceptional place. It looks like the bar at a nice restaurant:. full bar with tub freezers, taps and ice machine, stools, and a few tables with wooden chairs. The sound system is awesome and they have a portable stage for flamenco performers who often stay with them while on tour. After meeting the musician, he headed for the kitchen and emerged 4 hours later (7pm. . . the latest I have ever waited for comida) with roasted chicken, black beans, rice, mashed yuca, tostones (fried plantains) and a lemon carrot sauce for them. Of course, I had spent the previous four hours drinking Havana Club rum and cokes, so I was pretty drunk, as were most of the attendees.
After the meal, we moved the tables and had a fiesta flamenca with a circle clapping and singing while people get up and improv a dance (we only did bulerías this time). In the middle, I got up to go to the bathroom and opened the door only to find the musician shooting up, something I had never seen so up close in the flesh.
We headed back to Málaga at 10 and were home by 11. It was incredibly hot, so we just went to bed and in the morning, as it was hotter still, Elvira and Ramón woke me up saying "grab your suit, we are going to the beach house today."
More to come. . .
Aug 11th, 2006, 12:51 PM
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The beach house is in Lagos and is, indeed, right on the beach. As in, open door, cross street, and there you are. We slapped on the SPF, put a few things into the fridge for later, drank a beer, then headed to the beach where I swam as far out as I could, then floated on my back in silence except for the swells moving me up and down.
After the beach, one wants seafood, so we headed one village over to Kiosko Fernando for grilled squid and shrimp tapas and beer. Then we headed back home for fish stew, naps, and more beach time until heading home for dinner with Elvira's family back in Málaga.
Between the grandmother and two sisters, our party was 8, so we got a long table on the terrace, pitchers of beer and tinto de verano, and ordered bonfired sardines, fried fish and squid, and a huge salad. I love spending time with big families, so the fact that dinner lasted 3 hours was not an issue. We made plans for the following day and headed down the beach where a huge screen had been put up and they were showing Almodóvar's newst film, "Volver."
I had planned to meet Gema and Mari Pili (Elvira's sisters), and Pilar (niece) at the mercadillo de Santa Paula (street market with incredibly cheap clothes, fruit and veggies) on Tuesday morning, so I did just that and we spent 2 hours bartering with merchants. I left with shoes, a cell phone case, 3 pairs of underwear, a kg of grapes and a fan for 13€.
Tuesday lunch was with Gema and Grandma Elvira: gazpacho, fish and almond cakes with coffee for dessert. Afterwards we all went to the livingroom to chat and ended up falling asleep right on the sofa. You just can't beat impromptu summertime naps. I had to get up, though, because Ramón had informed me the day before that I would be going to a wedding on Saturday and I, of course, had nothing to wear. So, to the shops! From there, R and E picked me up and took me to the Malagueta where we met with Ignacio and Salvador for dinner. What was dinner: Well, tons of fish (rosada, chopitos, sardinas fritas, gambas a la plancha, huevas a la plancha, calamaritos) and beer. Ignacio and Salvador are both academics and art collectors, so afterwards we went up to their apartments (they happen to live in the same building) and saw the part of their collections they keep in Málaga (both live in Madrid except in summer). All three of us already have plans to meet here in BCN in a few weeks and I am telling you, between the amazing people, the food and the beautiful beach views, I started to think that Málaga was actually a pretty magical place.
After the beach, one wants seafood, so we headed one village over to Kiosko Fernando for grilled squid and shrimp tapas and beer. Then we headed back home for fish stew, naps, and more beach time until heading home for dinner with Elvira's family back in Málaga.
Between the grandmother and two sisters, our party was 8, so we got a long table on the terrace, pitchers of beer and tinto de verano, and ordered bonfired sardines, fried fish and squid, and a huge salad. I love spending time with big families, so the fact that dinner lasted 3 hours was not an issue. We made plans for the following day and headed down the beach where a huge screen had been put up and they were showing Almodóvar's newst film, "Volver."
I had planned to meet Gema and Mari Pili (Elvira's sisters), and Pilar (niece) at the mercadillo de Santa Paula (street market with incredibly cheap clothes, fruit and veggies) on Tuesday morning, so I did just that and we spent 2 hours bartering with merchants. I left with shoes, a cell phone case, 3 pairs of underwear, a kg of grapes and a fan for 13€.
Tuesday lunch was with Gema and Grandma Elvira: gazpacho, fish and almond cakes with coffee for dessert. Afterwards we all went to the livingroom to chat and ended up falling asleep right on the sofa. You just can't beat impromptu summertime naps. I had to get up, though, because Ramón had informed me the day before that I would be going to a wedding on Saturday and I, of course, had nothing to wear. So, to the shops! From there, R and E picked me up and took me to the Malagueta where we met with Ignacio and Salvador for dinner. What was dinner: Well, tons of fish (rosada, chopitos, sardinas fritas, gambas a la plancha, huevas a la plancha, calamaritos) and beer. Ignacio and Salvador are both academics and art collectors, so afterwards we went up to their apartments (they happen to live in the same building) and saw the part of their collections they keep in Málaga (both live in Madrid except in summer). All three of us already have plans to meet here in BCN in a few weeks and I am telling you, between the amazing people, the food and the beautiful beach views, I started to think that Málaga was actually a pretty magical place.
Aug 11th, 2006, 01:49 PM
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Before I got on I must mention that after the mercadillo, I got waxed at Francis on Héroe de Sostoa St. Full leg, full bikini, underarms, eyebrows cost 14€. That is incredibly cheap and they did a very good job.
I spent the following morning dress shopping and ended up buying 2 lovely pieces for only 90€. Woo hoo rebajas! From there I went to Mari Pili's house with Ramón and Elvira for another family meal. She made a platter of fried veggies, some fried fish, porras, ajoblanco, grilled shrimp, salad, and grilled peppers. Everyone ate to capacity and again, it was wonderful to watch a family interact over food. Perhaps one of my favorite activities, actually.
I spent the afternoon at the beach, and then went to the movies to see "Crossing the Bridge: the sounds of Istanbul." This movie is a must see for everyone. I saw it once and it is already my favorite movie of all time, bumping Kubrick's "The Shining" down to second.
I spent the following morning dress shopping and ended up buying 2 lovely pieces for only 90€. Woo hoo rebajas! From there I went to Mari Pili's house with Ramón and Elvira for another family meal. She made a platter of fried veggies, some fried fish, porras, ajoblanco, grilled shrimp, salad, and grilled peppers. Everyone ate to capacity and again, it was wonderful to watch a family interact over food. Perhaps one of my favorite activities, actually.
I spent the afternoon at the beach, and then went to the movies to see "Crossing the Bridge: the sounds of Istanbul." This movie is a must see for everyone. I saw it once and it is already my favorite movie of all time, bumping Kubrick's "The Shining" down to second.
Aug 11th, 2006, 02:14 PM
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After the movies we had tapas in la Placa Merced, then headed home for some sleep before hitting the berach the following morning.
After a lunch of fish stew, Elvira and I went to Gema's for coffee with her and Grandma Elvira. On the way out Elvira said "You know what I want to do? Get a Shawarma to go, head home and watch Casablanca, then go to bed." So, we got Shawarma and went home, only to find that amazing Ramón had fixed us a bowl of homemade pasta with sausage, spinach, garlic and eggplant. After that we left Elvira to her Casablanca and drove to Benamargosa with Ramón's brother in law to see a flamenco festival.
As Ramón is a flamencologist, we always get to hang with the performers, so we sat backstage and drank rum and cokes with Cancanillas and Andrés, both excellent flamenco singers. They performed and we finally hit the road at 5 a.m. Winding our way back through the Alpujarras, going up and down mountains and discovering little villages of light was really magical and I knew that in reality, I was in love with Málaga. Driving into the city from the mountains at night was like going into the light.
The next day, though, we had to get up early to make it to Lagos where I would make an American lunch for Elvira, Ramón, and his whole family (mom, dad, brother and sister). I bought everything at the mercado and let it be known that 20€ bought me: 10 pork loin chops, rice, tomato, onion, garlic, 1 kg of carrots, 1 kg mushrooms, bread crumbs, red pepper, peaches, cilantro, asparagus, cream, and 1 liter of homemade beef broth. Once in Lagos I hit the kitchen and in one hour had pork chops and rice (my mom's recipe), stuffed mushrooms, grilled asparatus, and chilled peaches and cream. Much to my delight, the meal all but disappeared.
After that we all napped and then got ready for the wedding. Elvira loaned me her mantón de manila (fringed and embroidered shawl), which went nicely with the new black dress, and we headed to Vélez for the wedding mass. Everyone was dressed to the nines, and the madrina was wearing a full on hot pink satin dress and jacket, huge peineta (giant hair fob) with a beige train all the way down to the floor). We waited outside the Las Claras church until the bride drove up and headed inside. Then, instead of dealing with the sweltering interior of the church, Elvira and I went for coffee. We were back in time for the rice throwing, though.
Back in Lagos, all of us put our suits back on and hit the beach, keeping our wedding make up and hairstyles out of the water. At 9 we hit the road again, this time to Frigiliana where we attended the wedding dinner. The food was excellent and the bride gave out hat pins to every female guest. Mine is on my sun hat, hanging on the wall.
As the dinner lasted so long, our table went through 8 bottles of wine before it was finally over and, as I had effusively complemented the madrina on her dress, she bought me a drink afterwards while we were all dancing.
Back in Lagos at 3 a.m., I decided to take a night swim and hit the water for an Zenlike hour of relaxation. I finally got to bed at 4:30 a.m., but was willing to be back up at 8 a.m. to drive to the country home to fix the well.
Elvira headed back to Málaga and Ramón and I drove to Vélez for coffee, then continued up to Borges, the village where Elvira grew up. There we met Grandma Elvira and Gema (at their village home), loaded up the SUV and drove the precarious, bumpy and mountainous trail to their country home. We spent the day cutting down the weeds and plants around the well, going into the well to skim it and cut down plants growing out of the wall, sweeping the porch, picking cactus figs and grapes from their vinyards, then finally eating and napping around 3 p.m. The afternoon brought on even more work (mostly still on the well, though I was moved inside to work on a few doors and hinges. We bumped our way back to the village around 7 p.m. where Ramón and I went to the public pool to find a neighbor. It was an amazingly Hollywood oasis in the middle of rural Spain.
After a lunch of fish stew, Elvira and I went to Gema's for coffee with her and Grandma Elvira. On the way out Elvira said "You know what I want to do? Get a Shawarma to go, head home and watch Casablanca, then go to bed." So, we got Shawarma and went home, only to find that amazing Ramón had fixed us a bowl of homemade pasta with sausage, spinach, garlic and eggplant. After that we left Elvira to her Casablanca and drove to Benamargosa with Ramón's brother in law to see a flamenco festival.
As Ramón is a flamencologist, we always get to hang with the performers, so we sat backstage and drank rum and cokes with Cancanillas and Andrés, both excellent flamenco singers. They performed and we finally hit the road at 5 a.m. Winding our way back through the Alpujarras, going up and down mountains and discovering little villages of light was really magical and I knew that in reality, I was in love with Málaga. Driving into the city from the mountains at night was like going into the light.
The next day, though, we had to get up early to make it to Lagos where I would make an American lunch for Elvira, Ramón, and his whole family (mom, dad, brother and sister). I bought everything at the mercado and let it be known that 20€ bought me: 10 pork loin chops, rice, tomato, onion, garlic, 1 kg of carrots, 1 kg mushrooms, bread crumbs, red pepper, peaches, cilantro, asparagus, cream, and 1 liter of homemade beef broth. Once in Lagos I hit the kitchen and in one hour had pork chops and rice (my mom's recipe), stuffed mushrooms, grilled asparatus, and chilled peaches and cream. Much to my delight, the meal all but disappeared.
After that we all napped and then got ready for the wedding. Elvira loaned me her mantón de manila (fringed and embroidered shawl), which went nicely with the new black dress, and we headed to Vélez for the wedding mass. Everyone was dressed to the nines, and the madrina was wearing a full on hot pink satin dress and jacket, huge peineta (giant hair fob) with a beige train all the way down to the floor). We waited outside the Las Claras church until the bride drove up and headed inside. Then, instead of dealing with the sweltering interior of the church, Elvira and I went for coffee. We were back in time for the rice throwing, though.
Back in Lagos, all of us put our suits back on and hit the beach, keeping our wedding make up and hairstyles out of the water. At 9 we hit the road again, this time to Frigiliana where we attended the wedding dinner. The food was excellent and the bride gave out hat pins to every female guest. Mine is on my sun hat, hanging on the wall.
As the dinner lasted so long, our table went through 8 bottles of wine before it was finally over and, as I had effusively complemented the madrina on her dress, she bought me a drink afterwards while we were all dancing.
Back in Lagos at 3 a.m., I decided to take a night swim and hit the water for an Zenlike hour of relaxation. I finally got to bed at 4:30 a.m., but was willing to be back up at 8 a.m. to drive to the country home to fix the well.
Elvira headed back to Málaga and Ramón and I drove to Vélez for coffee, then continued up to Borges, the village where Elvira grew up. There we met Grandma Elvira and Gema (at their village home), loaded up the SUV and drove the precarious, bumpy and mountainous trail to their country home. We spent the day cutting down the weeds and plants around the well, going into the well to skim it and cut down plants growing out of the wall, sweeping the porch, picking cactus figs and grapes from their vinyards, then finally eating and napping around 3 p.m. The afternoon brought on even more work (mostly still on the well, though I was moved inside to work on a few doors and hinges. We bumped our way back to the village around 7 p.m. where Ramón and I went to the public pool to find a neighbor. It was an amazingly Hollywood oasis in the middle of rural Spain.
Aug 11th, 2006, 04:42 PM
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What an adventure, Claire. I'd love to know who the jazz musician is you're referring to (DH is a jazz musician!), but will have you tell me over tapas and drinks when we get together in Barcelona!
Is it worth it for visitors to get a Barcelonagusto card, and if so, can it be purchased on the internet?
Anxiously awaiting the rest of this adventure.
(I for one have always liked Malaga, especially the old city. I even like the police there--we were lost trying to find the Museo Picasso and they personally escorted us into town!)
Is it worth it for visitors to get a Barcelonagusto card, and if so, can it be purchased on the internet?
Anxiously awaiting the rest of this adventure.
(I for one have always liked Malaga, especially the old city. I even like the police there--we were lost trying to find the Museo Picasso and they personally escorted us into town!)
Aug 12th, 2006, 02:05 AM
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We were back in Málaga by the early evening and decided that since all we had done for the past week was eat, that dinner would be light: grilled veggies. Ramón broke out a portable countertop grill and we made asparagus, peppers, tomatoes, aubergine, zucchini, puerros (I don't know that one in English), onions and mushrooms. Then we all fell into bed after watching a documentary on the "highway of death" which is what the Malagueños called the highway from Málaga to Almería that many had to walk when Franco's people came in and occupied and bombed the city. During the documentary friends and family kept calling becuase both Ramón and Elvira have both dedicated years to studying that particular part of the Civil War. Every mistake that was made was pointed out to me, and after it was over we had a long discussion about how the documentary could have been more accurate.
At 8 I was back up and at 'em because I had plans: eat chocolate con churros at Casa Aranda before catching the bus to the airport and the plane to Madrid. I kissed Ramón and Elvi goodbye and off they went to Torremolinos to close a deal. After finishing packing, I walked to Casa Aranda (right by the mercado ataranzanas) and found (miracle, really) an empty table and sat down. The 5 porras (large churros) and chocolate were a welcome addition to my being and I walked home feeling like yes, I had been to Málaga because as far as I am concerned, if you don't hit Casa Aranda, all has been lost.
There is not much else to say except that I took the bus to the airport and waited for my plane feeling very sad to be leaving Málaga. I decided that I would watch it disappear from my window seat, but once on the plane, I promptly fell asleep and did not wake up until I felt us bump down in Madrid.
At 8 I was back up and at 'em because I had plans: eat chocolate con churros at Casa Aranda before catching the bus to the airport and the plane to Madrid. I kissed Ramón and Elvi goodbye and off they went to Torremolinos to close a deal. After finishing packing, I walked to Casa Aranda (right by the mercado ataranzanas) and found (miracle, really) an empty table and sat down. The 5 porras (large churros) and chocolate were a welcome addition to my being and I walked home feeling like yes, I had been to Málaga because as far as I am concerned, if you don't hit Casa Aranda, all has been lost.
There is not much else to say except that I took the bus to the airport and waited for my plane feeling very sad to be leaving Málaga. I decided that I would watch it disappear from my window seat, but once on the plane, I promptly fell asleep and did not wake up until I felt us bump down in Madrid.
Aug 12th, 2006, 02:27 AM
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I arrived to the new and beautiful T4, which was quite a shock. I am used to Barajas being a cloud of smoke and slightly grimy floortiles, but this was like walking into a bathroom showroom. I was disappointed, though, when I found out I would have to take a bus to the metro (T4 is not yet connected). I went for it, though, but once at the metro saw that it was under construction, so I ended up changing trains twice to get to Banco de España, the stop nearest to the office where I was working.
I had not been to the office in about 3 years, but I found it without a hitch and met Roger, the volunteer who would be helping me that weekend. He is from Barcelona and we spoke Catalán, which was an unexpected bonus there in Madrid (I am very excited about getting my Catalán up to snuff). My job was to organize and execute an orientation for Spanish exchange students going to the US, and we did just that. After a full afternoon of working, we headed to the Plaza Mayor, and then to the Calle Mayor to eat at 100 Montaditos, where all those wonderful little sandwiches are 1€ (for 3 people, we got 4 each and beer, and the total was 15,50&euro
. Then we had drinks in the Plaza Mayor and from there, headed back to Hostal Don Juan.
Plue for Hostal DON JUAN!!!! Individual rooms are 34€ a night. You get a comfortable bed (there are 2 in the room, but double accommodation costs 48&euro, a private bathroom (small, yes, but the water is hot and the shower literally rains on you), TV and AC/heating year round. Plaza Vazques de Mella, 1-2ª/ 28004 Madrid (close to the Gran Vía stop on the metro, and Sevilla). A 5 minute walk to the Puerta del Sol. From the US: 011 34 915 22 31 01. I have yet to find anything in that area for such a good price and the woman at the desk (Raquel) is extremely nice. The owner likes antiques, so the entrance is an eccentrically harmonious mix of Rococco, Baroque, wood and velvet. I loved it there and am definitely going back.
The next morning we were up and back to work because at 6 the kids were arriving at the houth hostel in Alcalá. More planning, a little walking around the city, then off to Alcalá. This was the day I fell in love with Madrid. It is such a city and it is just so incredibly Castillian. Like in New York, I just wanted to walk around for hours with my eyes open and my mouth shut.
The orientation went well and though the kids got grounded in Madrid on the 10th (flying through London), they are all now safe and on their way to spend a year with some lucky family in the US. Have any of you travelers ever considered hosting? If so, check out usa.afs.org I went abroad with them and this year my host families and I are celebratingg 8 years!
After a harrowing day in T4, I went to dingy T2 for my Barcelona flight and as we left thought "gee, what if I got a job in Madrid?. . ." We shall see.
And that, amigos, is my first ever trip report on Fodors.
I had not been to the office in about 3 years, but I found it without a hitch and met Roger, the volunteer who would be helping me that weekend. He is from Barcelona and we spoke Catalán, which was an unexpected bonus there in Madrid (I am very excited about getting my Catalán up to snuff). My job was to organize and execute an orientation for Spanish exchange students going to the US, and we did just that. After a full afternoon of working, we headed to the Plaza Mayor, and then to the Calle Mayor to eat at 100 Montaditos, where all those wonderful little sandwiches are 1€ (for 3 people, we got 4 each and beer, and the total was 15,50&euro
. Then we had drinks in the Plaza Mayor and from there, headed back to Hostal Don Juan.Plue for Hostal DON JUAN!!!! Individual rooms are 34€ a night. You get a comfortable bed (there are 2 in the room, but double accommodation costs 48&euro
, a private bathroom (small, yes, but the water is hot and the shower literally rains on you), TV and AC/heating year round. Plaza Vazques de Mella, 1-2ª/ 28004 Madrid (close to the Gran Vía stop on the metro, and Sevilla). A 5 minute walk to the Puerta del Sol. From the US: 011 34 915 22 31 01. I have yet to find anything in that area for such a good price and the woman at the desk (Raquel) is extremely nice. The owner likes antiques, so the entrance is an eccentrically harmonious mix of Rococco, Baroque, wood and velvet. I loved it there and am definitely going back. The next morning we were up and back to work because at 6 the kids were arriving at the houth hostel in Alcalá. More planning, a little walking around the city, then off to Alcalá. This was the day I fell in love with Madrid. It is such a city and it is just so incredibly Castillian. Like in New York, I just wanted to walk around for hours with my eyes open and my mouth shut.
The orientation went well and though the kids got grounded in Madrid on the 10th (flying through London), they are all now safe and on their way to spend a year with some lucky family in the US. Have any of you travelers ever considered hosting? If so, check out usa.afs.org I went abroad with them and this year my host families and I are celebratingg 8 years!
After a harrowing day in T4, I went to dingy T2 for my Barcelona flight and as we left thought "gee, what if I got a job in Madrid?. . ." We shall see.
And that, amigos, is my first ever trip report on Fodors.
Seeing the musician in the bathroom must have been quite shocking! At least it would have been to me...
Aug 12th, 2006, 02:31 AM
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ness- I love Madrid. I only wish I knew more about it!
Artlover- the barcelonagusto card is not good for visitors, as each day has different restaurants and they are all over the city (very few downtown, actually). However, should we meet on a Friday at lunch I am happy to use it for me and yours at la Lluna, a favorite of mine right in the Gótico.
Leisure- Yes, I am loving being back here and feel like I am taking advantage of it all. Perhaps I should just do an ongoing trip report. . . though I guess that is what blogs are for.
Artlover- the barcelonagusto card is not good for visitors, as each day has different restaurants and they are all over the city (very few downtown, actually). However, should we meet on a Friday at lunch I am happy to use it for me and yours at la Lluna, a favorite of mine right in the Gótico.
Leisure- Yes, I am loving being back here and feel like I am taking advantage of it all. Perhaps I should just do an ongoing trip report. . . though I guess that is what blogs are for.
Aug 12th, 2006, 05:54 AM
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stardust- I have mixed feelings about publishing on-line, which is essentially what a blog is. I am on the fence, but you never know where the next few months will take me. We shall see.
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laclaire
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Sep 12th, 2006 05:57 PM
