Trip scheduled:

Depart LAX Sept 14th 2003. Transfer in Zurich. Arrive Rome Sept 15th.

Depart Rome for Sardinia Sept 16th.

Depart Sardinia for Sicily Sept. 28th

Depart Palermo for Rome Oct 10th

Depart Rome for LAX Oct. 11th, 2003


DAY ONE: The afternoon of our flight we head to LAX. We get to the desk only to be told that there IS NO flight! In August, Swiss Air cancelled all of the LAX to Zurich flights on Sunday during the month of September. Unfortunately, no one bothered to tell us. After some research, the agent found us a flight departing LAX to JFK the next morning at 9 am, with a 45 minute layover to catch the next flight - same airline - to Rome. It would get us there at 8:30 am which would be good because we could still catch our flight on Meridiana Airlines to Sardegna at 11:00 am. We lost our 1st class status. We flew business class.

We also lost our first night in Rome. Hotel Miami, when told our flight had been cancelled, would not credit us the room price. I had asked them if they would transfer the money to Oct. 10th, as we would need to stay the night on Oct 10th before our flight home on the 11th. they said "sorry, no." I cancelled the shuttle pick-up service. No problem as they don't ask for your credit card in advance.

SARDINIA

DAY ONE-AGAIN: Left LAX on time. When we got to JFK on Monday, we ran from one terminal to the next with our carry on baggage -we didn't check a thing- and we just made our connecting flight to Rome with about 10 minutes to spare. We got into Rome on Tuesday right on time. Our 11 am flight to Sardegna had been cancelled! We ended up waiting around and got on a 1 pm flight that actually left at 3 pm. We got to Olbia by 3:40. We were prepared to take the bus to Palau, but decided to pay a taxi driver 60E to take us right away. It took 45 minutes. Paid less than 5E/2 to take the ferry to La Maddalena.

Upon arrival at the port, I was able to see my first choice, Hotel Excelsior. Yikes! I had found the web site and thought the hotel looked simple and nice. I would like to recommend that the photographer who took photos of this place get a bonus. Having taken one look at it from the outside, I was glad that I never made reservations. To be fair, I wanted to see a room. I did and I left. I then went to find the Hotel Garibaldi. It wasn't easy. It took about 20 minutes. It's hidden in the back of the village. I should have called. They were sold out.

We were tired. I got a taxi driver to drive us to Hotel Miralonga. This was a nice place. It was a little out of town. Maybe less than a mile. It was 100E/2 per night. Unfortunately, they could only house us for the night as they had a group arriving the next day. The room was very large and modern. They had a sofa, table with chairs, and a mini kitchen. There was a partition to separate the bed-which was very hard. They had a modern, and pretty big bathroom. My husband liked the bath, but the water came out yellow due to rust in the pipes I assume. He didn't mind. Plenty of hot water and good pressure. I took a shower to avoid the yellow water. There was a small balcony with a view of the sea and of the filling station below. The station closed early, so it didn't bother me a bit. The staff was nice.

We had dinner in their dining room. DH had a steak, I had pasta with shrimp and zucchini, grilled veges for two, water and 2 beers. 35E. It hit the spot. After a long day of travel, we went to bed. I had the breakfast in the morning. The coffee was self serve from a coffee machine (icky). Typical rolls and choice of cereals.

DAY TWO: Our desk clerk referred us to Villa Marina, as we told him we were interested in finding a place where it was convenent to walk into town. Taxi brought us there for 11E. This hotel was a good find. Convenient location. Simple room. Clean and bright. Nice staff. It had A/C and was only 76E/2. The only downside was that the shower (even though it's nicely tiled) was tee-nee! We each weigh less than 130 lbs. I can't picture a lineman for the Bucs getting much more than a knee it there. Seriously, if you're a big person, this was not the shower for you. Breakfast was simple, but fresh. Rolls, cereals, juice, and good coffee.

We wandered around and ate at L'Avventura on the main street in front of the port. 2 salads, 1 plate of fish and 1 of squid, a large beer and 3 caffe'. Total 43E. Walked to the bus stop and tried to go see the Garibaldi house. I asked the bus driver and he said that we would have had to arrive early for the tour.

Decided to take a long walk. Found Hotel Gabbiano not far from town. We were curious. We inquired and was told it was 76E. It had a terrace and beach nearby. Looked like a pretty good place to stay. Nothing fancy at all, just another clean, simple room with a sea view and a small beach nearby to jump in the sea.

Had dinner at Pizzeria Vera Napoli. I had a vege pizza, DH had a plate of spaghetti with tomatoes and mussels. We had a beer, water, caffe for 25E. It was a good, filling meal. Walked another two hours.

DAY THREE: Today was the day we took our 8 hour boat cruise to the wonderful beaches around La Maddalena. We were referred by a servicewoman stationed at "La Mad" to go on a tour of the lovely surrounding beaches with "Super Maxi Gita". www.quipalau.it/rivieradigallura.asp We took the ferry to Palau and found the guys with the green t-shirts that said "Team" on the back. We paid 60E/2 and it was worth every penny. We stopped at Isola di Spargi and Isola di Budelli to sunbathe and swim for about an hour 1/2 each. We motored past the most beautiful, crystal clear waters imaginable. So many shades of blue, so many shades of green. It's a hundred feet down but it looks as clear as a swimming pool. We also stopped at Santa Maria for about 20 minutes in the sea where the snorkeling is good. Only a few went in because it was at the end of our excursion and it was starting to get kind of cool. There was a lot of information over the loudspeaker, but it was in Italian only. This was a large boat. It must have carried 75 people. We met two Italian couples and I got my first chance to really put into practice all that I've learned. We thoroughly enjoyed it. They fed us spaghetti for lunch which wasn't anything to write home about, but I was starved and finished it with glee. As a side note, there are so many options for these excursions that I wouldn't be surprised if you found one that just took out a dozen people and even gave guided tours in English. This was a "don't miss". Just gorgeous!

A freaky thing happened on this boat ride. DH, who swims with his eyes open, came out of the water on our 2nd beach stop saying "wait, I've got some hairs in my eye". He was batting at the air trying to remove the imaginary "hairs". He took out his contact and threw it away assuming some oil or something got on it and wouldn't wash off.

By the time we made it back to port, it was getting dark. After cleaning up, we went to Patrick's suggested "La Grotta" for dinner. As we walked in, the owner was sitting at the far desk at a computer. As we walked toward him, he took one look at us turned his head and stared at the computer. I approached and said "buona sera". He ignored me. As I was repeating the phrase, a young man came out from behind the desk and said buona sera and showed us to a table. Readers Digest version, after about 5 minutes, we left feeling uncomfortable. They were so arrogant. We split, assuming that DH's white t-shirt and shorts were the reason. (I was wearing black linen capri's with a black stretch cotton sweater set.) He didn't wear that again! We ended up back at L'Avventura where we had had good food and a cordial waiter the afternoon before. We had spaghetti with mussels, spaghetti with crab, water and a large beer. 31E. It turned out nice because we relaxed, had a good meal, and also had a warm conversation with the same waiter. He's German and speaks several languages.

We returned to the hotel to hear loud music coming from the bar across the street. Last night (Tuesday) it was quiet. Access to AC is turned off at night so I switched to ear-plugs, opened the window. and fell fast asleep. DH always falls asleep easily.

I always feel badly about recommending a place and having someone disappointed, but having eaten at La Grotta twice and seen how dressy and almost "formal" the place is, I can't imagine walking into it wearing a t-shirt and shorts. Yes, I suppose that was the problem. This is an upscale restaurant filled with locals, not a beach cantina. We were casual, but not dressed for the beach and were treated like royalty.

Keep it coming please- I need all the Sardinia info that I can get for my trip planning! Now we will have 3 people on the board who can answer questions about Sardinia. Patrick, GAC and you.

Patrick: It was a good lesson for him to learn. They just aren't as casual as we are here in LA.

AP: I'll add more tonight or tomorrow under a seperate thread. We absolutely LOVED Sardinia. I know you will too.

Thanks for the report. I can't wait to hear more! I am helping to plan my daughter's honeymoon in Sardinia. She wants a hotel with a really beautiful, sandy beach or one very close by. We would appreciate any recommendations. Some of the hotel sites say they have a sandy beach, and then when I read comments on trip advisor, etc., they will indicate the hotel's beach is pebble and sand. I'm glad you had such a great trip! WT

Wandering Texan: how much is your daughter willing to spend? If money is not an issue, she should look into the resorts on the Costa Smeralda, as well as the Forte Village at Santa Margherita di Pula. If she's on a budget, there are other good options.

Stintino would be an excellent choice. The beaches and water were stunning....but that's a place to really get away from it all.

For more of a city lifestyle with white beaches, Alghero would be a good choice. There was a lot to do.

GAC is "da man" when it comes to Sardinia. He's been to more destinations than we were able to see.

GAC, Thanks for asking. We need other options. The best deal I found at Forte Village was around 400 Euro with no meals. We are trying to find something in the $300-$500/night price range with half -board. She wants sandy, not pebble beach, her groom wants some nightlife. My daughter wants me to help her pick the hotel.

wantagig, I am waiting to hear more about your trip! It makes me want to go to Sardinia too, but I don't think the groom would want the Mother-in-law on the honeymoon! Do you have hotel recommendations for Alghero?

Thanks. WT

Hi WT: For Alghero, I'd recommend Florida. Via Lido 15 ph# 079 985 424. Right across the street is a long stretch of white sand beach where you can rent umbrellas and chairs. They have a lock box located on the mini table attached to the umbrella. It's a nice set up.

I wouldn't recommend that they go with half board because I had asked one of their guests how they liked staying there. They said it was fine, but the food was just "OK". There are so many choices nearby, IMO it's not necessary to limit your dining options. I went in and saw one of the rooms. (We were thinking of leaving our hotel to come here.) It was nice, small, very clean and functional. This town has a nightlife.

Thanks again! WT

Wandering Texan: for 300-500 US dollars per night/half board, most seaside resorts on Sardinia (excluding the most extravagant on the Costa Smeralda) will be affordable in mid-September.

Around Alghero, I'd recommend Hotel Dei Pini or Hotel El Faro.

On the Costa Rei north of Villasimius, I'd recommend Hotel Sant'Elmo Beach.

At Santa Margherita di Pula, look at the Is Morus Relais, the Flamingo, and the Hotel Baia di Nora (overlooking the Roman ruins). Further south, there is the Chia Laguna Grand Hotel.

Texan - We stayed (self-catering) at Capo d'Orso near Palau last year. We checked out neighbouring Hotel Capo d'Orso**** - and it looked excellent. You might want to check it out.
http://www.delphina.it/en/orso/index.html

Delightful setting with it's own private beach.
They have various honeymoon specials ...

Hope this helps ...

Steve

I would totally support Steve's recommendation from just observation - really beautiful water and attractive hotel.Very much a honey moon location. I cannot in any way support Alghero for the budget you are proposing. Hotels in Alghero simply do not have the style that Capo D'Orso has- they are for a tighter budget- and my view is Alghero is worth a day to wander around the old centre and that is it. The beach there feels frankly a bit industrial. If I had your proposed budget, I would feel pretty disappointed with Alghero's promenade.
Another Hotel with OK rooms, crap breakfasts but a really great beach/swimming pool set up is at Baja Sardinia near the appallingly over priced Porto Cervo. Hotel is called Grand Hotel ESmeraldo Beach or something like that - much nicer swimming set up than the Starwood Properties near Porto Cervo some which are $800 and up.

Thanks for all the help! We are still trying to decide!

GAC, My daughter thinks she will like the Stella Maris better than the Sant' Elmo because she can get a seaview room. It appears that the Sant Elmo may be a little nicer, but the rooms are not as close to the beach. These were both your suggestions, so if you have an opinion of one over the other, please let us know.

Steve and Travenick, thanks for your suggestions. The Hotel Capo d'Orso looks very good and she might have more to do there so I am forwarding this suggestion to her too!

Take care,

Steve and Travelnick,

Does the Capo have sandy beaches, not rocky?

Wandering Texan: Your analysis of the views from the two hotels seems to be correct. If she has a rental car, she will of course be able to visit both areas very easily, as they are not that far apart. Stella Maris is near Villasimius, which is about 20 kilometres closer to Cagliari than is the Sant'Elmo Beach Hotel on the Costa Rey. Stella Maris is also much smaller than Sant'Elmo Beach, and I expect would have fewer entertainment options. Either property should be very good.

Thanks again. I am thinking she might stay 3-4 nights at one in the south and then drive North and stay at the Hotel Capo where she can have more activities and visit more islands. What do ya'll think about that? WT.