laclaire

My flight was booked: Barcelona to Ibiza, 6 a.m. 8/24/06. From there I was to take the ferry to Formentera, rent a bike, and spend a week pedalling around the island, swimming, and camping. I packed light: 2 sarongs, 2 bathings suits, 1 sleeveless dress, 1 sleeping bag, 1 nice black dress, 1 nice shoes, 1 flip flops, 1 running shoes, 1 shorts, 1 shirt, 1 tank, 1 bra, 2 undies. No electronics except my cell phone, which I had turned off. I did have 3 pens, though, and my diary.

I was set and psyched, and when I caught my cab at 4:30, could not wait. But, the cab got lost (WTF?!) and we arrived at 5:00. Overbooking you say? I can't go to Ibiza you say? Oh, I can leave on the next flight? What time does that leave? 11:00 p.m.?! No, thank you. I need to leave RIGHT NOW!

So, I turned around, caught the airport train to Sants Estació and while on it, started to cry. No, not because of my lost vacation, but because of a really weird conversation taking place between a bunch of the airport night shift workers in the bay of seats next to mine. For some reason, it sent me into some kind of existencial crisis. So, I arrived to Sants at 6:50, puffy eyed and wanting to get on a train. I ran up to the window and said "I need to get on the next train to Alicante." The woman said "well, there is space on the 7 a.m., but you won't make it." Instant tears, and my blatant lie: "it is very urgent." In less than a minute I had my ticket and she was yelling "¡corre corre!" as I ran to via 4 and onto the train that took off 2 minutes later. I wrote a text message to my host dad saying I would arrive in Alicante at noon, then promptly fell asleep and didn't wake up until Alicante 5 hours later.

I had breakfast at a wonderful pastry shop (coffee and a chocolate croissant), then got 8 truffles to go and caught the bus to the house where I let myself in with my keys that I have had now for 8 years.

It had been almost a year since I last saw my host family (in Sept 2005 for our 7th anniversary), so when I walked in it was exciting and emotional as always; hugs, kisses, face grabbing and pinching. . . and Papá was making paella. Aunt Pilar and her twins (Carlos and Lucía) were visiting (leaving that same day), and I had not seen them since Uncle Luís' funeral (when the kids were just babies). I took the kids swimming for about an hour, and when we got back inside, the paella was just about ready. As the 8 of us crowded around the table to eat, all upset about my "lost trip" disappeared. Everyone ate like champions and afterwards, we all took naps, only mine lasted until about 8 pm and when I got up, Pilar, Carlos, Lucía and Papá were gone (to Valencia where they all live save Papá who was going to visit his mother for the weekend). I stumbled downstairs, had a coffee, then found the sofa where my lil sister and I sat around and talked until dinner, where we all sat around the table and talked some more. Then, I slept again.

stardust

Claire,

I'm glad to hear that a bad thing turned out well!
But how on earth can a cab lose the way to the airport in Barcelona ??? Anyone can find the Gran Via !!!

LoveItaly

Hi laclaire, I will write you later..am on my way to SF for the day, but just wanted to say as usual I love your posts! I am sorry that you had that stress but am so glad you made it to your host family's home! Big hugs!

lincasanova

my goodness. you certainly have had your share of travel upsets this summer! fortunately you know how to turn them into a chance to test your creativity and positive outlook on the detours life presents us with.

so.. where are you now? coming through valencia by any chance? i just got back from the states thursday, but will be off again next week or so as my father is fading quickly.

so, if you are near, please call or write...
lin

laclaire

Hey ladies! Thanks for the posts. I am back in BCN right now (installed in my new apartment!!!!) and getting some much needed work done. Oh, and writing this trip report.

(cont.)
I woke up on Friday morning really late and decided to just veg around and read (una muerte anunciada by García Márquez. . . I highly recommend it), which is what everyone did. We even ate lunch in our pajamas and then took naps. But we did finally get dressed and out because every Friday night Mamá goes to the filmoteca to catch the cheapie movie, which was Pride and Prejudice. Definitely a missable flick, but fun nonetheless to just hang out.

Afterwards I caught the bus to San Juan pueblo (as opposed to San Juan playa) to visit my old AFS liason and her husband and daughter. Her husband is from Kansas (she married her HS sweetheart from when she studied abroad in the 80s), so we love to get together and have American fun and tell stupid jokes in English, which we did with the help of about a million rum and cokes because, yes, he does PR for Havana Club. We still had to get up early on Saturday, though, because we wanted to get to the beach, which we did. We spent all morning at Muchavista, a very generic but nice beach near Alicante, then headed home for lunch (salmon stew and potato stew!) and insanely long naps. I was more tired than I thought, I guess.

I made a Cuban dinner (Congril) which was even more Cuban thanks to Havana Club, and then we sat around and discussed everything from politics to trash fiction. I love to speak Spanish and Catalán, but there is something about communicating in your own language with someone from the same culture. In any event, it was great.

The following morning started off really hot, so we decided to just stay out by the pool and play paddle ball, which we did until lunch was done. In honor of having another American in the house, the husband prepared mashed potatoes, spinach salad with honey mustard, roasted chicken and stuffing, and cream gravy. It was all delicious and followed by a nap that was closer to hibernation, after which they took me back to my host family's house.

Papá made it back from Valencia just after dinner and we all sat around and chatted for a few hours before my little sister said that she needed to go to bed because she had to get up early to study. This is where I made the most important decision of my trip. As I was so incredibly over rested, I made a deal with her: I would wake up early with her every morning and get her out the door by 9:30 as long as she promised to make the coffee.

So, Monday morning found the both of us stumbling around the house at 8:15 trying to get our act together. It was worth it, though, because she was out the door by 9:30 on her way to the library and I was headed to the beach, which was wonderful because not a single person was there yet. It was like discovering a continent! I staked out my area with my sarong, took a dip, then took a nice long walk in the sand, finally making my way back to my sarong for a few hours of sun (SPFing every) and calm blank meditation.

I made it back home for lunch and then mamá and I went to Leroy Merlin to look for curtains, which turned into about 3 hours of futile searching, but I did get a great picture frame for my new room, which I will be able to fill with images from everyone and everywhere as I have become somewhat of a shutterbug recently.

For dinner we had Palometa, a white fish that is just fantastic and way cheaper than Mero and Lubina (other white fishes I really like). If you see it on a menu, I recommend giving it a go.

Tuesday morning I got up early again and after seeing sis off to the library, Papá and I headed up the mountain by our house. We were gone for just over 2 hours and got all the way to the top, stopping along the way to take pictures and talk Alicante. He is a wealth of all kinds of information on the city and when he found out I had yet to try Fondillón wine he said "What?! And you say you lived here? In my house?" It turns out that there are (according to him) 5 wines categorized as "de lujo" and one is "Fondillón," a sweet wine made in Alicante and that the Romans used to export from the bodegas right behind our house (we live right by Lucentum, the Roman ruins).

Once back at the house we picked up Mamá and headed to Mercadona, the supermarket down the street, where we bought all kinds of food and ran into every neighbor I know and that knows me because it seemed like every corner I turned I would hear "Diós, si es Claire!" As my visits have been frequent but short in the past few years, many had not seen me since I was a wee child of 18, so there was a lot of catching up to do. Needless to say, we ate lunch really late, and instead of taking a nap, I headed to Alicante to pick up my train ticket back to BCN, find out about the ferry schedule to Tabarca, and shop for shoes. 1 ticket and a pair of saucy green espadrilles later, I was again at the filmoteca waiting for Mamá and Papá who wanted to see "The three funerals of Melquiades Estrada." I really loved the movie and freaked out when I saw my Godfather on the screen (who never even mentioned he was filming anything last time he visited), and afterwards while we chatted with friends outside, everyone had something to ask about Texas (that is where the film takes place and where I am from). I was glad when Papá finally pulled us away to get home for dinner, which was an assortment of veggies and fish set out for everyone to eat what they wanted.

So, as you can see, this trip is pretty much family oriented, but you should have gleaned a few fun Spanish facts so far: Palometa: try it. Fondillón: sweet wine from Alicante. Saucy green espadrilles: I now have a pair!

More to come. . .

laclaire

Wednesday was going to be a beach day, but instead I decided to prepare yet another Cuban feast as the host family wanted to try it. It took pretty much all morning as I went all out with the beans and chicken, and after eating (clean plates all around!), my host bro and sister and I watched a horribly violent Japanese film called "Battle Royale." I fell asleep just as someone was being decapitated and woke up to the sound of shooting. 'Nuff said. After that, I walked to the restaurant La Familia (in front of Hotel Al Bahía at the foot of the mountain and right on the water) to get a table for the next day when we would celebrate our 8th anniversary. It is about a mile from the house, and as it was still closed at 7 pm, I sat on the rocks and listened to the tide come in and out for about an hour. Normally, I would have called, but I did not have the phone number. I do now, and here it is, as after reading about our lunch, you will want to go there: (from the US): 965 393 161.

From there I walked the next mile into Alicante, went shopping but bought nothing but an orxata granizada at kiosko Peret (another Alicante must), then walked all the way back home, taking pictures along the way. Alicante is not a particularly pretty city (actually, it is ugly), but the difference is in the details, and I found a lot of them.

Salad dinner, then more reading (Javier Cercas "The Speed of Light". . . excellent).

Thursday dawned promising for tanning, so I hit the beach for another few hours, this time spending a considerable amount of time in the water, which was almost completely void of other sunbathers and swimmers. I really wanted to work up an apetite for La Familia, which I did, so by the time I was showered and ready to go to the restaurant (around 3 pm), I could have eaten my hand. I waited, though, and it was worth it. We started with Carpaccio, mousse de Ave and a mozzerella salad, and continued with pasta with cream and tomato sauce accompanied with langostinos. Mamá had the garlicky and delicious frutti de Mare pasta, and bro and sis shared carbonara and a Gorgonzola pizza (all to die for). . . and of course, what is an anniversary without dessert? I wouldn't know, because we had fresh pineapple, chocolate mouse, crepes and profiteroles. The total (beer and wine included) was 86€. One of the great hidden bargains of Alicante. The food is spectacular.

Thursday afternoon was more reading (Cercas is very engrossing), and dinner was lettuce and tomato, as no one could eat anything real after La Familia. . . still too full. I tried to go to bed early, but there was family drama back in the US, so I ended up on the phone with my mother for a little over an hour talking about the huge upset and only got to bed at 1, which made getting up at 7:30 the following day all the more difficult.

Hard or not, I got out of bed and made coffee for Mamá and papá (who both headed back to work after 2 months of vacation), then got my bag together (waterproof camera, sarong, 35€, book and diary) to go to the island of Tabarca. There are 3 boats (operated by Kon Tiki cruceros) that go from Alicante to Tabarca (1 hour ride), and the first leaves at 10:15, so by 10:20 I was lurching on the open seas headed to this tiny paradise.

We arrived to the port (dead center of the island) at 11:15 and it took me 5 minutes to walk to the extreme West side of the island where I found a bed of dried algae, put down my sarong, and started tanning. I was perfectly happy until I saw the kids snorkeling in the bay, so I decided to go buy a snorkel set (10€. . . definitely buy before you go) and hit the water. This is where it gets interesting.

Going into the water I misjudged the depth and fell forward onto some coral, skinning my leg. It hurt, but I didn't notice anything wrong. So, I snorkeled my way to the fish. The algae on the sea floor is really long and it all moves in unison, sort of like the wheatfields in Nebraska. The water was so clear that I floated on the top and could see over 20 feet down to the coral and animals (lots of sea urchins. . . yum!). I was floating there serenely until I felt a tickling on my leg. I looked and, sure enough, my wounds were bleeding pretty bad and there were a bunch of fish gathered around trying to EAT MY FLESH!!!!! I didn't panic, just kicked a little, but they kept coming back, so I decided to get out until the bleeding stopped (it was pouring from 3 different spots and I had no idea I had been that hurt). My wounds, though, were as stubborn as I am, and kept bleeding, so I made my way to a restaurant (Gloria. . . not the one on the beach, but the one overlooking the cliffs. . . yes, in an island of 30 poeple, there are 2 Gloria restaurants. . . go figure) and the waitress was nice enough to help me get cleaned up and send me on my way. Of course, after smelling their amazing kitchen, I was starving, but lasted 2 more hours until finally heading back to have their menú (14€: salad, medium plate of fried fish, arroz con tropezones and ali oli, tinto de verano, and dessert). I could not finish a single thing they gave me, as there was so much, but it was all absolutely delicious. I had never had arroz con tropezones and some might mistake it for paella, but really it is just a fish rice with pieces of tuna, served with a dollop of ali oli that makes it particularly wonderful.

Tabarca is separated into 2 parts: inhabited and uninhabited. I decided that the uninhabited part would be best for my nap, so I walked to the East side (there is a light house and an old fort) and spread out my sarong in the shade (of which there is precious little on the island as there are no trees). I couldn't really sleep, though, because I was too excited about the rest of the island, so I got up, walked all the way to the far East point (10 minutes), and put on my gear to snorkel some more. For 2 hours I was the only person there. . . I did not even see any boats or walkers. It was amazing! Unfortunately, I had to get back to Alicante on the last boat at 7:30, which I did, arriving tan, relaxed if a little beat up, and ready for a night out with the parents.

You will have to wait to hear about that, though. . .

LoveItaly

Oh laclaire, you do have a beautiful life!! I am so enjoying reading about your days. Enjoy your apartment!

laclaire

So, the big night out. . . We had decided to meet at what Papá calls "the best bar in the neighborhood" because I had never been there and their friends wanted to try it as well. There were 5 of us total and we had a reservation (it fills up quick), so getting in was no problem. They had the tables set up in the street (yes, as in where the cars are) because there was no more room inside, but at night no one drives in that area, so no problem. We started with 2 litres of beer and some grilled squid, then moved on to more beer and some grilled tuna, then grilled sardines, fried potatoes, and more beer. The fish was absolutely excellent (best tuna I have ever had in my life), but the best part was that one of the guests (Carmen) just kept getting progressively and accidentally drunk. It was ridiculous! She started speaking French and by the end of the meal had everyone promising to come to her house the next day for dinner. Of course, I had to leave the next day, so we said that we would do another dinner in the Fall. Then, we stumbled out of the bar and headed home to try (finally) Fondillón wine (which Carmen had never had, either).

It was sweet and woody like Sherry, but with a very overt grape taste that I really liked. Perhaps too much because we all ended up drinking our fill and then poor Papá (who had been the symbol of moderation all night) had to drive Carmen and her husband home. I slept like the dead and the next morning was up by 11 and ready to help make paella before hitting the road to Barcelona.

Paella making is a lot of fun (in my opinion), and Papá has always made it the same way: fry peppers and garlic in the pan with ñora while getting everything else together. Add fish (we do squid and bonito) to the pan. Remove ñora and garlic, and get some parsley from the garden, then grind it all together with a morder and pestal. Then add some hot fish broth, and strain it all back into the rest of the fish broth. Add rice to the fish and peppers and let cook for just a minute, stirring and coating everything. Then add the broth and walk away. Just before all the broth is cooked off, lay shrimp on top of the rice and let them cook a bit.

It came out perfect (as usual!), but instead of a nap, I had to catch the train to Barcelona, which I did rather half-heartedly because I really wanted to stay just a little bit longer. I always do.

But, I could not, and on Saturday night I pulled into BCN, walked to my friend's apartment, gathered up my suitcase and cello, grabbed a cab and 6€ later was moved into my new apartment.

Such is the life of a traveler.

Nikki

Thank you for posting this ode to spontaneity. Since you had packed so light, it's a good thing you ended up at the host family house.

New apartment? Not the old one over the chicas? Enjoy your new home.

laclaire

The chicas felll through, unfortunately, but I like my new place. Of course, who are my neighbors? "Pensión de caballeros." Or, another word for "hotel by the hour.

laartista

Thanks for the great report and best of luck with your new apartment.

LoveItaly

LOL laclaire, so the hood isn't boring I take it

kenderina

"pensión de caballeros" ? I sometimes love spanish language It's so ironic !!

Glad to read you had a wonderful time in Alicante, Claire. Your Papá or his ancestors are from Murcia ? Paella looks like the one from there, I like it too