vanessa21

My husband and I are traveling to Spain for 13 nights, arriving in Madrid on May 22 and departing on June 4, 2016. We are an active couple in our mid 40s, who enjoy culture, architecture, food, wine, beaches, culture, art, hiking, walking. We like to spend hours walking around towns, sitting in cafes, and enjoying the local culture. We were previously in Spain in 2000, but of course that’s been a while! In this three-week trip we stayed in Barcelona, San Sebastian, Cabo de Gato, Sevilla, and Ronda. We loved all of it, but particularly Andalusia, which we will revisit on this trip as well as spending our last couple of nights Madrid. We will return to Seville and would like to see some of the locations we missed in 2000, such as Cordoba, Granada, and perhaps something new.

After spending time reading guidebooks and postings, I would be grateful for input on our tentative itinerary. Our preference is to limit travel (driving, trains) and stay in just a few locations to have more time to enjoy and absorb the culture. At the same time, we'd like to see several areas.

Here is our current plan...

Arrive Madrid May 22 at 9:30 am. Take the train to Seville some time that afternoon.
Seville, 4 nights, May 22-May 26
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Mardid, 2 nights, June 2-June 4 (our return flight to San Diego is at 12:00)

In the middle, we are considering Cordoba 1-2 nights possibly immediately after Seville. I think the Cordoba spring festival may be going on which sounds fun. I realize we could easily do Cordoba as a day trip but after reading about the town, I think we will like staying there.

Then I thought we’d rent a car, and perhaps head to Jaen and spend 1-2 nights in Ubeda or Baeza, and also see Sierra de Cazorla.
Then 2 nights in Granada (stow car)
Return the car to Cordoba for train (or drive back) to Madrid and spend two nights

My questions are as follows:

Does it make sense to stay this many places even though they are all nearby - should any of these be day trip/s instead?
Assuming we adopt this itinerary, does anyone have opinions about spending 1 versus 2 nights in Cordoba, Granada, and Ubeda/Baeza, and how we should arrange these stops?
Anything I’m missing that would be different and beautiful? We loved Cabo de Gato and also considered returning there, or, to the hill towns. We would like to experience a mix of “cities” and smaller or more off the beaten path locations.
We could also stay another day or two in Sevilla and include day trips, e.g., to Carmona or Sanlucar.
Finally – are two nights sufficient for Madrid?


Any and all feedback is very welcome. Thank you in advance!

Bedar

Your itinerary sounds just fine. I wouldn't bother going back to Cabo de Gata,even tho' quite nice, and am not certain which hill towns you mean, but just south of Granada is the Alpujarra whose towns are charming. You don't have to go all the way back to Cordoba to drop the car. Drop it in Granada and take the train to Madrid from there

Robert2533

Cordaba is interesting and worth spending a night or two. Úbeda is small, but always worth a couple of days at the Parador. It can be used as a base for visiting Baeza, about 20 minutes away by car, and Sierra de Cazorla, which is a little over an hour's drive.

Jaen is also worth a visit. It's only an hour's drive from Úbeda.

Granada woud require at least two nights, but we prefer a couple of extra days to enjoy the city. We like the Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol (www.alcubilladelcaracol.com) in Granada. It's located up on the hill, not far from the Alhambra. Or you can stay at the Parador.

PalenQ

Two days are sufficient IME for Madrid itself - a bustling modern city with some neat areas but overall just too hectic and loud for me - but Madrid has excellent day trips - like foremost to Toledo, one of Europe's neatest old-world cities - 45 minutes or so from Madrid by train - or to Segovia or Avila or even Salamanca.

If driving back to Madrid you could hit Toledo on the way back.

Trains in Spain give great deals for advance booking far far in advance to get the limited in number cheap fares - AVE trains that is Madrid to Cordoba and Seville - www.renfe.com is the official site of the Spanish Railways - flummoxing to many however but print your own tickets and if book early save a lot over walk-up fares but I think non-changeable non-refundable at that low price. For lots of great info on Spanish trains in general check www.seat61.com- good info on discounted tickets; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.

Driving takes a lot more time than those about 190 mph trains - Seville to Cordoba also has regional trains that have I think a fairly flat fare structure if you don't want to bother booking the AVE for that short haul - well check www.renfe.com and see.

vanessa21

Thanks for the very helpful information! Apologies, I meant the white towns not hill towns. I will take a look at Alpujarra.

We might consider adding Toledo as well.

In terms of the rental, I was thinking of Europcar and they dot not allow a pick-up in Cordoba and drop in Granada, but perhaps I can find another agency.

The "Carmen de la Alcubilla del Caracol" looks lovely, thank you for that recommendation Robert!

Robert2533

Try booking with Auro Europe. They have discounts with with Europcar, Hertz and Avis.

vanessa21

Thank you PalenQ. That is good to know re. Madrid, as we do not favor large and busy places (as much as smaller towns/cities).

I am going to try to maximize our train travel and minimize driving, and I appreciate the hints re. purchasing tickets.

Toledo really does look beautiful! Perhaps we can include an overnight there.

Robert, thanks for the advice re. Auto Europe!

kja

It all depends on your interests, but FWIW, I thought Cordoba worth every moment of the 2 full days / nights I gave it. I also thought Granada worth every moment of the 3 full days / nights I gave it, and note that you will need at least 2 nights there if you want to visit the Alhambra during both the day and evening -- which I highly recommend. I agree that the towns of Las Alpujarras are well worth seeing, particularly since you mention hiking. I enjoyed staying in Capileira in the Poqueira Gorge.

"are two nights sufficient for Madrid?"

That depends on what you want to see and experience there. I spent 4 full days and did not see everything I would have like to see -- and that doesn't count the 2 full days I spent in nearby Toledo, or the day in Segovia, or the day in Avila....

You'll see some wonderful things no matter what you decide!

Nelson

We are going to Spain for first time in October, so this info is just regarding our plans not any experience:

<i>> thinking of Europcar and they dot not allow a pick-up in Cordoba and drop in Granada</i>
Hmm, I was able to find that on Eurpocar, but wound up going with Hertz because it was a lot cheaper (hoping that buying cheap was not a mistake!).

<i>> Úbeda is small, but always worth a couple of days at the Parador.</i>
FWIW, I tried booking the Parador months ago for our mid-October dates, but it has been sold out, except for some very expensive suites. Those are gone now as well.

We are going to Cazorla for three nights (my ancestors came from there). Here are some links you may find useful:
http://www.turismoencazorla.com/
http://applicajaen.com/municipio?cazorla&m=23&i=en
http://www.walkingworld.com/walks/Sp...n/Cazorla.aspx

Have fun planning!

kimhe

Regarding Madrid, it's of course a big city, but one of its characteristic traits is that much of the center is made up of very different and local feel districts with an almost small town-feel.

Some examples:
Laid-back Chamberi: http://moving2madrid.com/neighbourhood-chamberi/

Old and bustling La Latina: http://www.spain.info/en/lugares-int...la_latina.html

Upscale Salamanca: http://www.spain.info/en/lugares-int...la_latina.html

More than gay Chueca: http://moving2madrid.com/neighbourhood-chueca/

Heart of the city Barrio de la Letras, great terraces, tapas bars, restaurants and jazz and flamenco venues: http://www.barrioletras.com/

Plenty of wonderful places to relax and wind down in Madrid. For example:

The beautiful and popular Retiro park close to El Prado:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...ro-Madrid.html

Grab a window table at Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes in down town Calle Alcalá, 42 and watch Madrid life go by. Take the lift up to the roof topp terrace (the azotea) for great views of the city. http://www.esmadrid.com/en/cargarApl...ntificador=179

Watch the sunset over the Guadarrama mountains from the tranquile terrace at El Ventorrillo in the beautiful Vistillas park close to the Almudena cathedral and the Royal Palace. http://11870.com/pro/restaurante-ventorrillo

Casa Granada is a hidden gem on the 6th floor of an apartment building just off local atmosphere Plaza Tirso de Molina. Hard to find and an excellent terrace. http://www.tripfilms.com/Travel_Vide...ada-Video.html

And in Andalucia, you should also consider small town Antequera (pop 40 000). Known as the heart of Andalucia or the crossroads of Andalucia, almost right in the middle of the Malaga, Sevilla, Cordoba, Granada rectangle. First of the Granada emirate towns to fall to the Christians in 1410 and as genuinely Andalucia as it gets. Here you'll find dolmens (some 5000 years old burial chambers), Roman baths, a Moorish Castle, Gothic churches, Renaissance fountains and Baroque bell towers.
http://www.andaluciacoastandcountry....era-spain.html

I love the terrace in the corner of the peaceful Escribanos square in front of the Real Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, the first partly Renaissance-style church in Spain (built 1514-1550). Up here it's totally peace and quiet. Next to the recently excavated Roman baths beneath and looking up on the 13th century Moorish alcazaba/fortress. Great views over unique landscapes (the spectacular Torcal limestone mountain, the Lovers leap etc.) My favourite spot in all of Spain. http://www.wild-about-travel.com/201...ing-antequera/

A tapas tour of Antequera: http://www.andaluciacoastandcountry.com/tapaspain.html

And the train stops here ;-)

kimhe

Right links to Café del Círculo de Bellas Artes:
http://www.timeout.com/madrid/bars-a...e-bellas-artes
http://www.lapeceradelcirculo.com/en/
http://www.circulobellasartes.com/azotea/

and to the upscale Salamanca district:
http://moving2madrid.com/neighborhood-salamanca/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractio...ca-Madrid.html

progol

We just went to Andalucia this past May, and have to agree with others that Cordoba deserves at least 2 nights, and Granada deserves at least 3 nights. There is much to see and do in each of these cities.

We didn't go to Ubeda or Baeza, but I think that one of those would make a great stop, say, between Cordoba and Granada, where you would drop the car.

vanessa21

Thanks all, so much to consider! It is very helpful to see the more detailed information re. areas of Madrid. I appreciate the tips on smaller towns as well. Antequera looks lovely. We will definitely stay 2 nights in Cordoba and 2 in Granada, though I will see if our itinerary can incorporate 3 in Granada instead. I definitely want to see the Alhambra both at night and by day. I realize now that there are many possibilities for one way car rentals, which helps as well! On to more research, thanks again for all of the excellent information and ideas!

PalenQ

I would not spend 3 days in Granada - to me a city worth visiting for a few hours if it didn't have the Alhambra. 2 days would be a day too long for many - a large loud city - of course has its joys but spend more time in a Seville I'd say.

Sassafrass

While I love Granada, (it is one of my favorite cities with the amazing Alhambra, stunning landscape and great history) you could do two nights there and feel pretty comfortable with that.

Though many are, I am not a big fan of Cordoba, one night there was fine for me.

Now, Toledo is an ultimate walled city with lots of history and one of the finest, most interesting cathedrals in the world. It still makes me hold my breath when I walk under the transparente. The views are awesome. Night is mysterious. If you could spend a night, it is worth while. A day trip visit is just not the same.

Unless things have changed recently, if you are taking the train, you have to go into Madrid first to catch the train (or take the bus) to Toledo. It takes about 25 minutes. If you are driving, of course, you do not have to go into Madrid.

Egbert

Looks good. Madrid is worth three nights at least. One nighters are not relaxing.