OReilly

Hello all:

It has been an age since I last visited this site. Once again I am seeking your assistance in planning a trip to the Dordogne/Lot.
I last visited the area in 2006, based in Domme, and it was a wonderful experience. Here is a link to my trip report:
http://www.fodors.com/community/prof...y/topics_2.cfm

I am now living in Blackheath (South-East London), with London City Airport just 20 minutes away, and discovered last week that Cityjet (Air France) is flying directly to Brive airport in the Dordogne. So, I booked a flight for myself and my niece for next weekend.

I have decided to stay in Domme again, at the Hotel Esplanade, as the previous experience was excellent, and the restaurant truly spectacular. Here is the website:
http://esplanade-perigord.com/

At short notice, I booked a Superior Double room, with stunning views of the river, for 150 Euros. Breakfast is 12 Euros and half-board (Breakfast and Dinner from a set menu) 57 Euros. Half-Board looks tempting, but have read they have a Truffle menu for 98 Euros, which might be difficult to resist .

I have done my homework. Stu has kindly sent me his exhaustive report on the area, I have read Ira’s recent trip report, and have also received excellent advice from St. Cirq & Carlux on other posts. Many thanks to all.

As always, I want to do too much in too short a time! We fly on Friday morning and return on Sunday afternoon – far too short a stay!

I MUST see Pech Merle, as I missed it on the last trip (see my previous trip report for the embarrassing details) , want to explore Sarlat (cut short on my last trip because of inclement weather), visit the museum at Les Eyzies (closed on my last visit), and take the boat trip.

I have posted my itinerary for your critique. I think it is reasonable, given both of us will be driving (I have checked out driving times on Viamichelin.com). In particular, I would welcome your advice on the following:
• Restaurant in Sarlat on Friday for a late lunch (Arriving 1430, so it would have to be ‘all-day service’)
• Restaurant in Les Eyzies (Nice place, excellent food and wine)
• Restaurant in St. Cirq Lapoppie (I think this looks the best of what is available, but open to other options: http://www.restaurant-legourmetquercynois.com/)
• The times I have allotted to touring the various sites.
- Just in case we run out of time at Pech Merle and have to skip St. Cirq Lapoppie, can you recommend a restaurant in Brive for a nice lunch?

In advance, I thank you for your advice.

Best regards … Ger

The Itinerary:
Friday
Drive Airport - Sarlat: 1330 - 1430
Sarlat lunch (TBD): 1430 - 1600
Tour Sarlat: 1600 - 1800
Drive Sarlat - Domme: 1800 - 1830
Dinner at L'Esplanade

Saturday
Drive Domme - La Roque-Gageac: 930 – 945
Boat Ride: 1000 - 1100
Tour La Roque: 1100 - 1200
Drive La Roque - Les Eyzies: 1200 -1230
Lunch Les Eyzies: 1230 - 1400
Museum Tour: 1400 - 1530
Drive Les Eyzies – Beynac: 1530 -1600
Tour Beynac: 1600 - 1700
Drive Beynac - Domme: 1700 - 1715
Dinner at L'Esplanade

Sunday
Drive Domme - Pech Merle: 0800 -0930
Tour Pech Merle: 0930 - 1100
Drive Pech Merle - St Cirq: 1100 - 1115
St Cirq Tour: 1115 - 1215
Lunch: 1215 – 1345
Drive St Cirq – Airport: 1400 - 1530

janisj

That isn't a link to a trip report

I <i>think</i> you meant this one

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-dordogne.cfm

(had to page back a long ways to find it)

OReilly

Many thanks janisj How do I do this?

Best regards Ger

Judy

We had a very nice lunch at Bistro de l'Octroi in Sarlat. I'm not certain of their lunch hours but you may be able to google.

OReilly

Thanks Judy,I will check it out.

Best regards Ger

janisj

"<i>How do I do this?</i>"

If you want to post a link to another thread, open that thread -- highlight the URL and copy it.

Then go to the new thread where you want to post the link and paste the copied URL in your post.

as an example - the URL of THIS current thread is

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-dordogne.cfm

kja

Sounds like a wonderful few days!

I thoroughly loved the Esplanade, both the hotel and the restaurant! But just in case you want to eat dinner somewhere else while in Domme, you might consider Cabanoix & Chataigne.

http://www.restaurantcabanoix.com/

Also, you might want to re-order your plans for Saturday: I believe Stu Dudley recommends taking the boat from La Roque Gageac if you are taking it in the afternoon, but taking it from Beynac if going in the morning.

Enjoy!

Carlux

a few comments:
re; lunch in Sarlat. Most restaurants will stop accetping people for lunch at 2 or so. So you may not get into the Octroi. If you are having dinner at the Esplanade you probably only want a light lunch anysay,and the cafes in the square will be open.


Leave yourself enoughtime to get to Pech Merle. Vimichelin says 1h24, but there are lots of twists and turns. So make sure to leave by at least 8 if not before.

At la Roque Gageac if you do have an hour there, go up the stairs to the level above the street, where there is a wonderful tropical garden - they have a micro climate against the cliff and a resident who planted palms and other tropical plants.

Don't know about the direction of the boat - presumably you mean the Gabarre. Having lived here for 17 years, have never got around to takign it.

I'm interested to finally see someone using the new airport at Brive. Also to see how you make out.

pavot

I met family members at Brive in July -- it easy to get to, easy to navigate (like having a private airport), and all in all the best option for them to get to the Dordogne from Paris. It's a great alternative to the long train journey.

I have a couple of ideas for you for lunch in/near Les Eyzies. My family thoroughly enjoyed Au Vieux Moulin, which is right in the town (although we went there for dinner rather than lunch), as well as the restaurant at Auberge Medievale, in nearby Audrix.

Have a wonderful weekend. I'm jealous!

OReilly

Thanks all for your responses.

Pavot, unfortunately Au Vieux Moulin is closed for lunch on Saturday. Pity, it looks wonderful. I'd prefer to lunch in the town so we can have a glass of wine (dare not drink & drive, as I am a bad enough driver when stone cold sober).

Carlux: Yes, just looking for a salad, so the restaurants in the square will do nicely. I am really excited about Cityjet's new routes from London City Airport. Some may be seasonal, but we now have Avignon, Brive, Deauville, Nantes, Pau & Toulon! I anticipate another Dordogne trip before the end of the year. What is the weather like in late October?

kja: I checked the website and it states all boats leave from Le Roque, but will confirm when I book on-line. For this trip, I'll just stick to dining in Domme, as we have a fairly full itinerary, but thanks for the recommendations for future trips.

Thanks janisj, now I know!

Best regards Ger

StCirq

Hi there, Ger! Good to see you.

Apart from Au Vieux Moulin, Les Eyzies doesn't have much in the way of fine dining, but if you're good with a simple lunch the Café de la Mairie is fine, as is the Mentalo.

The gabarre trip is great - only done it once, but it was highly informative.

OReilly

Hello St. Cirq! Good to hear from you. Hope you are well and happy.

Thanks for the restaurant recommendations. Given that we intend to have a heavy meal that evening in Domme, a light lunch might be well advised.

I am really looking forward to the trip. Now that my airport around the corner (London City airport is only 20 mins away, and the flight time is just 90 mins) has direct flights, it makes a weekend trip possible. I intend to visit the Dordorgne more often. Can you comment on weather in October/November?

Best regards Ger

yk

Ger, I just want to say it's great to see you here! Hope you stick around as I love reading your trip reports.

OReilly

Hello yk! How kind of you. I promise a trip report for this adventure.

Best regards Ger

StCirq

Ger, I'm hardly ever there in November, but October is often just divine, assuming crisp near-cold nights aren't an issue.

kja

> I checked the website and it states all boats leave from Le Roque

For gabarres from Beynac, see:

http://www.gabarre-beynac.com/

> For this trip, I'll just stick to dining in Domme

I can certainly understand eating 2 consecutive dinners at the wonderful Esplanade, but just for the record, the restaurant I mentioned - Cabanoix & Chataigne - is in Domme, less than 5 minutes by foot from the Esplanade.

taconictraveler

Ger: I found your older trip report thanks to your asking for help again. I loved your report, and it is still very valuable for those of us lucky enough to be going to the Dordogne in September!! Many thanks, and hope this next trip is as much fun for you, and that you do NOT have any misplaced important items!!

OReilly

Hello all:

Many thanks to all for your assistance in planning my trip to the Dordogne. My niece and I have had a wonderful time. I am working on a trip report.

A short weekend never gives one sufficient time to explore. This is my second trip to the Dordorgne, and my agenda was:
• To explore the things I had not on the previous trip
• To share with my much-loved niece the things I have seen and loved

The highlights were:
• Floating down the Dordogne river
• Viewing Les Jardins de Marqueyssac on a sunny day
• The prehistoric museum at Les Eyzies
• Lascaux II
• The hectic, but beautiful drive from Domme to Pech Merle
• Pech Merle

There were disappointing moments:
• When rain stopped play in Sarlat
• The shocking realization of the effect of inflation
• Travelling in High Season, and its implications re standards
• When an old favourite failed to live up to expectations

And then there were the surreal moments:
• Being locked out of our hotel at 2330, with nowhere else to go
• The Curse of Perch Merle and would Ger ever get to see it?

Best regards …. Ger

bon_voyage

I love your trip reports and am looking forward to this next one to relive some of our time spent in the Dordogne.

Flame123

We were in Sarlat for a week a few months ago and our most memorable meal in the Dordogne area was at Le Grand Bleu a one-starred Michelin restaurant which was extremely reasonably priced. I think we chose from the 35 Euros per person menu at lunch and it was a wonderful many course meal with all sorts of little "palate-cleansers" and amuse bouche in between. Highly recommended.

http://www.legrandbleu.eu/