Kwoo

My husband and I are flying to France in May to visit our daughter and son-in-law. We have already bought our roundtrip tickets to and from Marseilles, leaving Boston on May 11 and returning on May 26. The purpose of our trip is to visit our daughter and travel to a part of France we have not seen yet.

Because we want to spend time with our daughter and son-in-law in their new home, and because we will be visiting her in-laws for several days in Clermont Ferrand, we have about one week for sightseeing in the Dordogne region. Our plan is to drive from Clermont Ferrand to Sarlat on May 17 (our daughter will be traveling with us), and return to her home in Senas (about half-way between Avignon and Marseilles) on May 23 so that we can spend some time with our son-in-law before we return to Boston. So we will have 6 nights in the Dordogne.

I suggested to my daughter that we stay in Sarlat for the entire week but she likes the idea of breaking up the week and staying in two different places. Would it make sense to stay in Cahors for the last 3 nights of this trip?

We love just about everything: beautiful scenery, pretty villages, ruins, castles, gardens, wine tasting, etc. I'm not sure about seeing the caves I have read about. Many people comment they are claustrophobic, and my husband does have claustrophobia. But I am not ruling out the caves, and we are open to suggestions on what caves might be the best to visit.

Some of the towns that sound interesting to me, in addition to Sarlat and Cahors, are Rocamadour, Beynac, Brantome, Perigueux, Monpazier, Biron, and St. Cirq. We will have a car, either our daughter's car or a rental.

Also, how far in advance should we make hotel reservations?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions/help.

Michael

Cahors is not as attractive as Sarlat, and is not in the Dordogne. Seeing the northern part of the Dordogne from Sarlat is not very convenient. If breaking up the stay, consider staying around Brantôme.

sweetannie

If you decide to stay in Brantome, take a look at staying at Moulin du Roc. It was perhaps the most romantic room we've ever stayed in. If you don't stay there, at least have dinner. It's just wonderful.

dugi_otok

1 night in Rocamadour here:
http://www.domainedelarhue.com/gb/accueil.htm
Followed by 5 nights in Sarlat here:
http://www.villaconsuls.fr/

<< We love just about everything: beautiful scenery, pretty villages, ruins, castles, gardens, wine tasting, etc.>>
You are going to the right place!!!

A great ladies home:
http://milandes.com/site.php?langue=ang

Read/Download this guy

http://issuu.com/sarlat_tourisme/doc..._smallpdf.com_

http://www.sarlat-tourisme.com/en/download-brochures

kja

I thought Sarlat a great base for the part of the Dordogne in which it is seated, but you have a wealth of options here and few (if any) bad choices.

"I'm not sure about seeing the caves I have read about. Many people comment they are claustrophobic, and my husband does have claustrophobia. But I am not ruling out the caves, and we are open to suggestions on what caves might be the best to visit."

OMG, if you have ANY interest in art or early human history, DO try to visit some of these caves! IME, the art was breathtaking, and the light it shed on that period of human history astonishing. The ones I visited were: Font de Gaume (astonishing chromatic scenes), Grotte des Combarelles (engravings, but through some VERY narrow passages as I recall), Abri du Cap Blanc (basically open to the air; 3-dimensional carvings), La Roque St. Christophe (open air, but an archeological site, rather than cave with art), Lascaux II (recreation of stunning chromatic works), and -- after I left the Dordogne -- the magnificent Pech Merle (even older chromatic works in a cave that also has interesting geological features).

I'm glad to say that I am not at all claustrophobic, so I can't say what it would be like for someone who is. Here's a recent thread on the issue:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...oric-sites.cfm

Hope that helps!

Kwoo

Thank you so much to everyone who has replied so far. I think this will be a difficult decision. kja, I am sold on seeing the caves. I will do more research on the ones you mention to find one that will not be too claustrophobic.

dugi otok, the accommodations you mention are beautiful, and the villa consuls seems affordable.

Will check out Moulin du Roc in Brantome!

Michael

Rouffignac might be less claustrophobic because it uses a mine train to go to the site, 1 km. into the cave.

Kwoo

Does anyone know how I can print the report on prehistoric sites (the link that kja attached) in large print? I printed it but the print is very small. I've printed Fodors Forum reports in the past, and the print was always much larger.

Michael, thanks for the tip on Rouffignac. It is also mentioned in the prehistoric sites report. Sounds like it could be a good choice for us.

How far in advance should we make hotel reservations for May?
Thanks!

FrenchMystiqueTours

If you can see the cave at Pech Merle (near St. Cirq) it's not at all claustrophobic (huge gallery) and it was a near religious experience for me, but I'm into prehistoric stuff.

http://www.pechmerle.com/

dugi_otok

Kwoo
Villa Consuls has a 2 bedroom unit with a kitchen area that would be good for you. On Saturday morning you can look out over the fantastic Sarlat market on the street below you. Buy some food to take back to Senas. David, the manager, is very helpful. He has a lot of handouts, day trip itineraries, restaurant recommendations etc. He let us check in early morning, helpful with luggage, offers breakfast (we did not eat there but preferred cafes on the street below), free washer-dryers.

I agree with FMT and kja on Pech Merle. You could see it as a day trip from Sarlat or a stop on the way to Senas.We called for a reservation the day before. To me Lascaux II would be OK, like a garage full of people. They close the door behind you. Others here think it is claustrophobic, but I do not.I like Font de Gaume but I do not know if it would be OK for hubby.

See video http://www.pechmerle.com/english/

Kwoo

I bought a guidebook on Dordogne and Lot, and now I am more confused than ever about where to stay and how to narrow down what we can see in 6 nights. Every place sounds wonderful. I am thinking of possibly spending the first 2 nights in Brantome, then 4 nights in Sarlat. Or the first 4 nights in Sarlat with 2 nights in Cahors or Figeac. I know Michael suggests Brantome instead of Cahors, but my guidebook describes the Lot Valley as less touristy and quieter than Dordogne, with a subtle charm, which we also like.

I would love to hear other travelers itineraries; where did you stay, for how long, and what did you see. If you were based in Sarlat, typically how far did you travel in a day to see what you want to see?
Thank you!

Michael

The northern part of the Dordogne is also less touristy than the Périgord noir. St. Cirq-la-Popie is as touristy as any Dordogne hill town.

It's a question of preference.

Kwoo

Michael, thanks for your reply. I saw photos online of Brantome, Cahors, and Figeac, and I agree that Brantome is really beautiful and prettier than Cahors and Figeac. My daughter is leaning towards staying in Brantome and Sarlat. Thanks for letting me know that the northern part of the Dordogne is less touristy than the Perigord Noir. Now I wish we had more time for this region!

Michael

There are exceptions to my general comments. Brantôme is one of them.

kja

"I would love to hear other travelers itineraries; where did you stay, for how long"

OK, but note that I travel solo, fill every possible minute, don't eat lunch, and don't mind relocating every night or two. I don't think most people would find my itineraries to their liking. ;-) So take a deep breath and get as comfortable as you can....

2 nights in Sarlat, 2 in Domme, 1 in Rocamadour, and 1 in St. Cirq Lapopie

- I reached Sarlat in time to check in and have dinner.

- full day: Sarlat market; Font de Gaume (reserved in advance), roamed St. Leon sur Vezere; Grotte des Combaralles (reserved in advance), Abri du Cap Blanc (reserved in advance); Jardin d'Eyrignacs; walk around Sarlat; dinner.

- Musee National de la Prehistoire; La Roque St. Christope; St Amand de Coly; Lascaux II (reserved in advance); Castelnaud; relocated to Domme in time to check in before dinner.

(Yes, it was ridiculous to stay in both Sarlat AND Domme, but I REALLY wanted to stay at the Hotel L’Esplanade, and couldn't afford it for 4 nights.)

-- full day: Beynac-et-Cazenac; Marqueyssac; Les Milandes (castle and falconry show); La Roque Gageac (town and gabarre ride, which I reserved in advance); Jardins d'Eau; walk around Domme before dinner.

- Explore Domme and it's cave; check out and begin drive: Jardin de Cadiot; Martel; Carennac; reaching Rocamadour in time to check in before dinner; see the monastery after dinner -- night in Rocamadour.

-- check out; visit Gouffre de Padirac; drive to Figeac, then along Cele River with stops in Espignac Ste. Eulalie and Marcilhac-sur-Cele; reach St. Cirque Lapopie in time to check in and roam around the town before dinner

- check out, visit Pech Merle (reserved in advance), then following Stu Dudley's advice, drive to San Antonin Noble Val, Penne, Bruniquel, Castelnau de Montmiral, and Cordes sure Ciel before going to Albi in time to check in before dinner.

Sorry for the auto-corrections that I haven't caught...

Hope that helps!

It is a very special part of the world.

Kwoo

kja, I am very impressed with your itinerary and how much you saw! My husband and I are in our mid to late 60's, so we don't have the energy to travel the way you do, but I think it's great that you do and you can see so much. Each person's travel style is different. I, for one can't skip lunch, because I start to feel ill. And I love food too much!

I notice that in some cases you made reservations in advance. What time of year did you travel? Do you think it's necessary to make advance reservations in May? I would prefer not to do that, unless we make them a day or two in advance. For example, I would love to take the cruise in the gabarre, but right now have no idea what day that would be.

Thank you for taking the time to give me your itinerary!

MaineGG

My husband and I, both older than you, enjoyed a stay in the Dordogne in 2013. If you'd like to see what we did, you can find my trip report under my user name.

We took the gabarre cruise from La Roque-Gageac. We just showed up and went on the next boat out It was no more than half full. There were no issues with crowds or traffic. It was a beautiful time to be in that area with all the flowering trees in bloom. You'll have a great time.

StuDudley

>> I saw photos online of Brantome, Cahors, and Figeac, and I agree that Brantome is really beautiful and prettier than Cahors and Figeac<<

My wife & I have spent 10 weeks vacationing in the Dordogne and 4 weeks in the Lot area. We always stay in Gites.

IMO, Brantome looks better from the outside than from the inside. Same with Cahors - the "old" section is quite small. Figeac is our favorite - by far.

My choice of locations to base in would be:

- 4 nights in Sarlat & visit all the chateau, caves, villages, rivers, markets, gardens, canoe trip, birds of prey show, & cliff dwellings around there (too many to list).

- 2 nights near Rocamadour, and visit Rocamadour (early morning or late afternoon), St Cirq Lapopie, Pech Merle, beautiful Cele River, Figeac, Gouffre de Padirac, Carennac, Loubressac, Autoire, and Martel.

Do you have my 20+ page itinerary for the Dordogne?? I've sent it to over 2,000 people on Fodors. If you would like a copy, e-mail me at [email protected] & I'll attach one to the reply e-mail.

Stu Dudley

maitaitom

Here is our trip in 2012 (with photos). The Dordogne is covered in Chapters Three through Seven.

We stayed a great place on Sarlat for five nights and loved it.

http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/france-2012/

kja

@ Kwoo -- I certainly didn’t mean to suggest that you would want to replicate my itinerary – I tried to be clear about that! There are MANY ways to travel, and IMO, what is most important is that people find what works for THEM.

My time in the Dordogne and Lot was in late May. As MaineGG indicated, the gabarre shouldn’t be a problem. Given my limited experience, my guess is that La Roque St. Christophe would also be unlikely to be problematic. But some of the caves -- Font de Gaume, Grotte des Combaralles, and Pech Merle in particular, and perhaps the Abri du Cap Blanc and Lascaux II – might indeed require advance reservations. As I understand it, those first three (Font de Gaume, Grotte des Combaralles, and Pech Merle) place VERY severe restrictions on the number of people who are allowed to visit per day. Seeing these masterpieces was my highest priority in the area, so I was NOT willing to take a chance on missing out. I reserved well in advance, so I can’t tell you how much time would be reasonably safe – sorry!