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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 11:21 AM
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Florence, quick note/summary

My wife and I visited Florence for 3 days, with a 1 day jaunt into Siena. I recommend Siena. Very nice - more of what I had expected.

Florence museums were great. Ufuzzi and Academia are a must. The hike up the dome is nice too. Definitely get reservations ahead of time. I also recommend a tour guide for the Ufuzzi - otherwise you will be overwhelmed.

We went in July so it was definitely tourist season. For that - I didn't like Florence itself. Everyone there seemed to have an angle to "get" the tourist. Especially if you are perceived as a rich American tourist - which we're not. Lots of street begging, merchants trying to angle you for a $10 gelato and plenty of pickpockets. A pair of thieves tried to pick my pocket by pretending to need directions. (front pockets nontheless!) Cops? Plenty of them on the square, but they seem like they are only for show and keep the peace. No violence, but it seems that pickpockets are par for the course and tolerated. They don't seem too concerned about catching them, so watch out.

From that standpoint, very disappointed with Florence.

Don't dine anywhere near the main square. Find a real local for a recommendation. By the time you read it in some book, they're done. The best seemed to be always in slightly off the beaten path.

Switzerland was the opposite - well organized, clean, no crime, but the food left much to be desired. Food-wise, no contest compared to Italy.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 11:58 AM
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unfortuante that the pickpocketers ruined your view of Florence. I just try to ignore them and focus on the beauty of the city. You mention that you didn't like it also because it was tourist season...you blame that on the city?
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 12:51 PM
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Hi vafer2k, many people get overwhelmed with Florence, especially during the heavy tourist season. And if it is real hot and humid one can get very tired.

I have been in Florence many times and always "have" to go there as I have beautiful friends that live in Florence.

Since I have seen the museums, the churches, David etc. I don't have to worry about getting to all of the major sites.

I do go shopping with an Italian friend that goes to Florence with me. When I am in the central district I get tired of so many people too. Fortunatly she usually goes to shops that are a bit out of the way and that is nice. And they are shops the average tourist does not go so that is a welcome break also.

In the evenings I am always in a residential area and have dinner in private homes and that is heaven. But even there it is so hard for my friends that live in Florence to find a place to park their car. Sometimes they have to park 6 to 8 blocks away.

And you are right about the Florentines and the tourist. Think they get sick of the tourist and so try to at least get a lot of their money, LOL.

But having said that there are a lot of beautiful people that live in Florence, especially people that are not involved with the tourist trade.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 01:33 PM
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sandi, I don't see where vafer said the pickpockets ruined her view of Florence. She was merely pointing out that they can be a problem, and of course they can be. When someone tries to pick your pocket it's kind of hard to ignore that.

And what is this about "blame"? I don't think it's about blaming anyone for the fact that the city seems over run with tourists and the locals in the center seemed focused on making money off them. That's the way it is in a city that depends on tourism, and it would be silly to think that isn't true. If someone said that Venice is damp or that Rome is old and needs a good coat of paint, would you say "why blame that on the city?" Vafer is merely pointing out her impression of the city.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 01:52 PM
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this comment: "We went in July so it was definitely tourist season. For that - I didn't like Florence itself."

The fact that 90% of the post was about pick pockets led me to believe that this was the main reason he had negative views of the city. Like the comment: "No violence, but it seems that pickpockets are par for the course and tolerated. They don't seem too concerned about catching them, so watch out. From that standpoint, very disappointed with Florence."
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 01:53 PM
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"Vafer is merely pointing out her impression of the city." and I was merely pointing out that is was unfortunate.

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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 02:07 PM
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Hi all, just as a point of interest my friends in Florence stay away from the central/tourist area during the tourist season if at all possible. They too find it tiring and overwhelming. Vafer2k, maybe if you could visit Florence when it is say very late autumn of winter you may it enjoy it more. But in any case no one should ever feel bad that a certain city/place does not appeal to them. I have friends that hate San Francisco. And yet that is where I go when I want to get away and relax. I knew a dear priest that once said "thank goodness we all don't like the same place or it would sure be very crowded!" And speaking of him...he thought the Italian language was ugly and that the German language was beautiful! LOL.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 02:18 PM
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"Vafer is merely pointing out her impression of the city." and I was merely pointing out that is was unfortunate."

That it was unfortunate she felt that way, or unfortunate that what she said is true?
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 06:15 PM
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It's unfortunate in both ways I suppose, but I've only been to Florence twice and never saw what he saw or had the experience or feeling he had..at all.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 06:29 PM
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I just do not understand why so many people dislike Florence. People say the area around the Duomo is crowded in summer. Well, have you been to the Ile St Louis in July, Trafalgar Square in August, Times Square anytime. They are all at least as crowded as Florence and no one says don't go there because it's crowded. People say it's hot in summer. Have you been to Venice, Rome, - I've even been in London and Zurich when it's been hotter than it often is in Florence. Why do people go to an Italian city full of great art in the middle of tourist season and then complain that it's hot and crowded? And why don't they complain about the same thing in Venice and Rome? I'd really like to know what it is about Florence that turns people off.

Just for the record, I've been to Florence in July and loved it. I never saw any "$10" gelato, I had great pizza right in front of the Duomo, the people selling things even at the "touristy" markets were always helpful and friendly and I saw no more in the way of crime, beggers or pickpockets than in any other city, probably a lot less.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 07:34 PM
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I agree, Isabel. I love Florence, and I rarely see that it gets the praise it deserves. I don't know if it is because some visitors are unprepared, or have expectations that are not met. It always makes me a bit sad when I read that people are disappointed, or "don't get" this wonderful city beyond the treasures of the Uffizi and Accademia.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 07:56 PM
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I think it all has to do with expectation and perception of a place. Most people have a romanticized vision of Florence based on books they have read and/or movies they have seen. The reality of it may disappoint some while it delights others. To each his own.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 08:06 PM
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For some reason, and I do not know why, the heat, the humidity and the crowds in Florence (the central historical area) have always bothered me more then in Rome, Venice, Milan etc. It is not that I do not like Florence but I am always drained when I leave there. Again, I do not know why but it is a fact. Bad Karma?

But when I am out of the Central historical area and in the residential areas I am fine and enjoy Florence very much.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 08:20 PM
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Unfortunate. Sorry you have this view of the most wonderful, culture and food rich city in the world. Firenze is magical, there is no other way to descibe it. Can't wait to get back and I was just there a month ago. Maybe next time forget the tourist stuff and just make like a local.
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 09:01 PM
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I was also there this past July, and I'm glad to say my family and I enjoyed Florence tremendously. Yes, merchants do want to maximize their profits, however, if you are willing to haggle, you can actually get great deals. Our New York street smarts must have kept the pickpockets away. And we found the cops to be very helpful to us everywhere we went in Italy. Maybe it's because I'm from a huge city, but I never found the crowds in Florence to be a problem for me. Then again, I'm also looking from the perspective of Times Square on any night.

I'm glad vafer2k loved the museums in Florence. Perhaps a good time for you to go would be in the fall/winter, when there are less tourists. It's also less crowded then. I'd love to go around that time just to see what the crowds are like at that time of the year.

Best wishes for a better trip to Florence the next time (and do give it another chance!)
Margaret
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Old Aug 24th, 2005, 09:02 PM
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sorry, just noticed I wrote the same thing twice (less tourists/less crowded). Oopsies. *blush*
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Old Aug 25th, 2005, 06:08 AM
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OK, a bit of explanation on my part. I'm usually careful NOT to say "I didn't like Florence", because in fact I did. But I often say, "Florence is my LEAST FAVORITE Italian city". Why?

Sure other cities are crowded too, but when we were in Florence (three times now) the entire center seems ALL tourists. Everything seems geared for tourists. Although Venice is probably even more crowded, when I stroll around within the center, I'm constantly aware that this is a "living" city. I bump into locals doing their shopping and marketing. Schoolchildren are playing in the little squares. You hear lovers or mothers with children arguing through open windows. I feel that I've been allowed to enter a "real" world. There is none of that in Florence for me. I'm more likely to be too aware of having to move aside as tour group after tour group being led by an upraised umbrella passes by.

In other cities, you go to the markets even in the center of the city and you'll be brushing elbow to elbow with the locals doing their buying. Campo Fiori is not set up for tourists. Does anyone want to try to convince me the straw and leather market in Florence exists for ANY purpose other than for tourists? This is a major difference to me.

Now for those who would say I need to get out of the center of Florence to see the "real daily life", sure I suppose that's true. But I'm talking about comparisons with the centers of Rome and Venice and even Palermo here. You don't have to get out of the center of the other cities, but I feel you do need to in Florence. And frankly why spend a lot of time in the "suburbs" of Florence? I'd just as soon be relaxing in the center of Montepulciano or Siena or Pienza -- also touristy places but with a far less "total tourism" feel than the center of Florence.

So again, while I love the riches of Florence and have enjoyed seeing them. (No one should die without having seen The David under that skylight), as a CITY I still say it leaves me cold compared to other Italian cities I've been (which includes a lot of them).
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