runlong

Good morning all,
My husband and I will be flying off in 2 weeks for a 9-day trip to the Basque regions of France and Spain. I've been having a hard time finding travel books on this region, so maybe you can help me. Here's what we have planned, with nothing really specific (restaurants, bars, etc.).
We're flying Air France into Biarritz via Paris from the US. Renting a car to drive to Hossegor to check into our hotel. We'll be there all week since it's only 90 minutes max away from everything we want to see on day trips. We'll be in Hossegor for the Quiksilver Pro surfing championships, so we'll be on the beach most of the time for at least 3 days. After that, we want to take some day trips to Pamplona and Bordeaux, possibly Bilbao. What do you all suggest? Everything after the surfing contest is up in the air.

Thanks!

StCirq

Bordeaux's a bit of a haul for a daytrip. You might want to save it for an overnight on the way back to Paris, if you're heading back that way. You could also include Arcachon and Cap Ferret and the Dune de Pyla if you head north.
I would concentrate on all the lovely areas around Biarritz, especially Bayonne and St-Jean-de-Luz.

NEDSIRELAND

I think Bilbao should be a 'Must' rather than a 'Possibly.' The Basque cuisine you'll encounter there will make you wonder why you even thought about bypassing Bilbao; not to mention the Guggenheim, la Begonia Cathedral and the Casco Viejo.

I would skip Bordeaux before I would skip Bilbao.

Robert2533

I take it you're already downloaded a copy of Maribel's Guide to the Basque Country, which will give you a great deal of information on the area; restaurants, sights, shopping, etc. I'd also suggest you pick up the Cadogan guides "Northern Spain" and "Bilbao & the Basque Lands" at your favorite bookstore. These three sources should provide you with a wealth of information on what to do in the Basque Country.

I would skip the Bordeaux region this trip and concentrate on the Basque Country, especially since most of what you want to see is found in the surrounding countryside, away from the city, which is not all that impressive, and is very busy.

As far as restaurants go, you might want to check out Auberge de la Galupe in Au Port d?Urt, which is due east of Biarritz / Bayonne on the A64/E80. Take the D123 exit to Urt. The restaurant is next to the river. You?ll need to reserve at least one day a head of time. Tel: 05 59 562 184

There is the Restaurant Cheval Blanc on rue Bourgneuf in Bayonne (Tel: 05 59 59 01 33)

If you stop in Hondarribia, then try to get reservations at Restaurante Alameda. They have an excellent fixed priced menu for both lunch and dinner. This city is also well know for its pintxos.

In Gernika, the heart of the Basque County you'll find Restaurante Zallo Berri which offers both classic and creative Basque cuisine. Tel: 946 251 800

For Donostia-San Sebastian I would suggest Restaurante Mugaritz (Tel: 943 522 455) in the countryside outside of the city. Zuberoa (Tel: 943 491 228) in Oiartzun, a suburb of the city. And of course you can check on Casa Nicolasa (Tel: 943 421 762) and Arzak, both of which are in the city and require reservations.

For something a little less formal, you can try Restaurante Galzagorri in Souraide for traditional Pays Basque cuisine.

If you make it to Pamplona then you will have to try Café Bar Gaucho which is located just off the Plaza del Castillo and possibly the Europa, one of several great restaurants in the city.

There are more, but I think this would more than fill your week.

stormygirl

Just came back from this region and posted a report here:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/pgMessa...28&start=0

We really loved the area, especially San Sebastian. Also you may want to consider the Rioja which is a short drive from Bilbao.

We had a Fodors Spain book which was ok but had some outdated info. Check into a Lonely Planet guide also.

cigalechanta

We stayed in Ainhoa at the Ithurria, wonderful Hotel with great food.
In Biarritz, we were at the Clare de Lune. In Cibure adjacent to the port of Saint-Jean-De-Luz, we ate at the funky Arrantaleak, the fish fresh from th gulfe of Gascone. In St Jean de Luz at the beautiful Parc Victoria we had an excellant dinner and would have liked to stay there but the eight rooms were booked.In Bilbao, we dined in the Guggenheim restaurant that was surprisingly very good

cova

Hi runlong,
Robert's recommendation of the Cadogan guide is spot on. They are pretty good and detailed. The tiny Footprint guide for Bilbao is not bad at all, but you will be better off with a wider vision ...

I would do a first daytrip to San Sebastian, stop in their tourist office, and ask them not only for the city map, but also for the Bilbao citymap and the Basque Government booklets on what to do, natural spaces, tradition, basque cuisine ... Very good done, lots of info (including recipes in the cuisine one), walking tours of San Sebastian, Bilbao and Vitoria, recommended driving tours in the Basque Country ...

As you are going for the surfing championships in Hossegor, I think you can be interested in the surfing spots in the Basque Country. Zarauz near SS (you can have lunch there at the expensive restaurant of Karlos Arguiñano), Sopelana near Bilbao, and Mundaka, not far away from Gernika, in a magnificent natural park and with a fabled wave.

If you want any local help, please write to me.
Rgds, Cova

runlong

Thanks for your suggestions everyone, this is a great help. I think we will skip Bordeaux and concentrate on heading south instead. It does seem like a long way up there from Hossegor. Another dumb question. I have been in Spain several times, love the pace of siesta and late mornings and even later nights. Are there any similarities in this area of France? When time should we expect to eat meals and take in a few drinks?

Robert2533

Lunch in the Pays Basque (French side) usually begins around noon vs after 1:00 pm (13:00) in the País Vasco. Dinner is also served a little earlier in the evening on the French side, as early as 8:00 pm (20:00). Meals are served a little earlier during the fall and winter months throughout the region. Be aware that most smaller restaurants in the French countryside, those in smaller villages, etc, often close earlier than those in the larger coastal cities. Lunch is usually the main meal in the País Vasco, followed by pintxos and a lighter meal in the evening, whereas dinner is usually the main meal in the Pays Basque.

Drinks (beer and wine) are available anytime from the early morning hours on, cocktails however are not usually consumed until later in the day. Be careful if you drink and drive. DUI laws are quite strict and are being enforced.

runlong

No problem, I'm generally the "drink and walk" type as opposed to the "drink and drive" type. Thanks!