kiki_1075

Hello,

I'm going on my first trip to Italy and I am staying in Venice for 5 days. I was looking for advice on two things:
1. Tips on traveling alone in Venice. I've traveled alone in South America, but never in Europe and any advice about Venice, would be greatly appreciated..
2. Taking a tour of the Murano Glass Factory. Should I try to schedule a tour before I get to Venice or wait until I arrive in Venice? My concern is cost and availability.

Some people have told me that tours can book up and it might be more expensive to do it when I get there..

Thanks!
kiki

Patrick

I'm not sure which factory you're talking about -- there are many. Maybe someone has some really specific information about a factory tour, but my experience was to take the regular vaparetto to Murano on our own, walk around and enter showrooms and factories on our own. We simply walked into three different factories and watched. At one they did a regular narrated presentation every half hour or so. But our favorite was one where we were right up close to a couple of workers. And someone from the shop came out and translated for us as we conversed with the glass blowers who were working on lily like flowers for a huge lighting fixture which was a commission.

I've never heard of paying to do a tour, in fact you can walk all over Venice and will be approached by people willing to give you a ride and tour, as they will take you somewhere and get commission for whatever you buy. Same thing with your hotel that will probably be set up with a company or two to get a cut on your purchases.

tetrabit

Tours to Murano? They would be begging you go take a free tour once you get there. Our hotel booked as a free tour, private water-taxi to Murano. When we got there, a salesperson showed us around and we watched a glass demo. Make sure there's no obligation to buy, so when you get there, if see something you like, then you buy otherwise, just don't buy. We took the vaporetto back because we wandered around Murano and had lunch (excellent!) for a few hours.

gelato_lover

I agree with Patrick and Tetrabit. I've been to Venice four times (Murano twice) and each time I have entered many different shops and seen free demonstrations. Usually someone from the shop meets the vaporetto and herds all the tourists inside. Incredible to watch them making a prancing horse out of a glob of hot glass in two minutes!!!

adrienne

Hi kiki,

If you want to watch glass blowing you don't need to book a tour. In fact, you're better off not doing a tour. Just take the vaporetto to Murano and stop in any of the places that have a sign "fornace" outside the shop or on the awning. You can watch them blow glass. The one my friends went to last month was to the right of the Navaggere vaporetto stop. They were blowing a chandelier and there was no pressure to buy.

Do a search on this board - there are recommendations for glass factories.

While you're on Murano look at the church there - Santa Maria e Donato - quite beautiful and the Glass Museum with Venetian glass back to the first century. Both are accessible by getting off at the Museo vaporatto stop.

Venice is a very easy place to be alone. I've always felt safe there. I'm not sure what types of tips you're looking for on traveling there alone. Or are you just looking for advice on Venice in general?

mclaurie

As everyone has said, there's no shortage of opportunities to go to Murano. No need at all to book ahead. When we checked into our hotel they asked if we wanted to book for a trip there. We never went but as I understand it you can agree to one of these tours & you're taken free by water taxi. When you arrive you get shepherded to the factory who's "sponsored" your trip there. If you buy something I think they bring you back for free. If you don't or want to explore some more, you're on your own to get back by vaparetto (no problem). If you don't want to be pressured to buy anything, I suggest going on your own by vaparetto. Also be aware there's PLENTY of glass to be bought in Venice proper. Some of the glass sold in Murano is not made there. I'd suggest checking around Venice first before going to Murano so you have an idea of price.

As to other tips-make sure you have good directions on how to get to your hotel. The twists & turns can be confusing. Know ahead of time what your travel options are to egt there, depending on whether you're arriving by train or plane. Do some research on places to eat ahead of time. If there's someplace special you want to go, have your hotel make a reservation for you.

Venice is very safe although some of the narrow streets can feel a bit deserted at night. As with anywhere, just be alert & aware of you surroundings. You will love it.

mclaurie

PS-your friends gave you really bad info about Murano. They were either pulling your leg or are not very knowledgeable. Be careful about any other advice they've given you

kiki_1075

Thank you all for the great advice about Murano... I will wait until I get there and just explore Murano and play it by ear.

As for traveling alone.. it's good to hear people generally felt safe in Venice. .. If there are any suggestions on restaurants or bars to visit in the evening that are in the Dorsoduro area (near my hotel -La Calcina).. so that I am not traveling to far away from my hotel at night.. that would be really helpful..

Thanks!

elaine

this is my standard information about Murano and glass buying:

While I was in Venice for the first time I asked my concierge which boat I should take to Murano and Torcello. He told me that at 9am a free water taxi would take interested hotel guests to Murano, where the glass factories are. Thankfully, I had read about these arrangements. A particular glass factory arranges with a hotel to pick up interested guests by private boat. When the boat lands on Murano the passengers are offered a free tour of the sponsoring factory, after which they are encouraged to order some glass items. This is not necessarily a bad arrangement, but it means you don?t get to shop around at the other factories unless you strike out on your own, which I did.

When we arrived at the boat landing on Murano, I thanked the driver and went out to browse. Of course I had to make my own way back to Venice, but that was easy by vaporetto.

It turns out that much of the glass sold in Murano and Venice proper is mass-produced, and not all of it is even made on Murano, some of it comes from the Czech republic and elsewhere.. You end up seeing the same designs and small glass items (2" animals, fish, beads, tiny bowls, etc) in many stores. They start to all look the same from shop to shop. There are a couple of top-of-the line glass shops around San Marco (Venini, Pauly, etc).

Even on Murano, there are many glass shops that just sell souvenirs that may or may not be made there. On Murano, authentic Venetian glass is shown in factory showrooms. The items in the shops may or may not be locally-made. After strolling the length of Glass Street (Fondamenta dei Vetrai) on Murano the first time, I ended up at a factory showroom, where I ordered some drinking glasses, vases, and other items to be made. Manufacture and shipping were to take almost three months. When they arrived I had to pay some additional Customs charges, but the items came precisely as ordered, and packed beautifully. The company I use: Albarelli & Nielsen, ponte Vivarini 143, 30141 Murano, Venezia. email [email protected]

Patrick

By the way, I've posted this story before, but a friend with me in Murano fell in love with a Murano glass tree with birds on it -- we're talking maybe 6' high at a price of around $10,000. She seriously considered buying it and after lunch they dropped the price by maybe a thousand and even offered to ship it free. We actually met the artist in the factory who did this piece. She finally decided no. Much later we saw a virtually identical piece at home in a jewelry story for a little over half that price. She looked and it was signed by the same artist. The lesson? Don't necessarily expect a bargain just because you are there.

MyriamC

kiki_1075,
Don't expect too much of the Murano glass factories. You can see short demo's in the factories and buy (beautiful!) glass items in the shops. These items are - as mentioned before - not necessarily made in Murano!

You can easily get to Murano by vaporetto (water bus). If you do so, I would advise to buy a one-day travel card (valid 24-hours) on the vaporetto and visit both Murano and Burano. I liked Burano better with its colorful houses and leaning bell tower.
It's easy to get to. From Zattere vaporetto stop - which is at the hotel La Calcina - you take line 52 to Fondamenta Nove where you change to line 12 that goes to Murano and Burano.
In addition, the one-day travel card is also valid on Canal Grande.
PS. In Murano we had a good lunch at restaurant Busa alla Torre, at Campo San Stefano.

mclaurie

kiki I strongly urge you to get the book A Thousand Days in Venice by Marlena de Blasi, an autobiographical account of an American woman who meets a Venetian man. Aside from the good story, she mentions a number of places to eat I wish I had known about before going (I read it after I'd been there).

I would NOT recommend Ai Gondolieri in Dorsoduro-too expensive & not all that good. Our friends went to La Rivista in the Ca' Pisani hotel (also Dors.) and loved it. Many people like San Travaso for an inexpensive, decent meal. The pizza place at the foot of the Accademia bridge (I think it's called Foscarini) is good & cheap. Right by your hotel is Ristorante da Gianni, 918 Zattere-good pizza & fritto misto. Casin Dei Nobili (also Dors.) gets good reviews.

ira

Hi kiki,

As mentioned you can get a free tour of a number of glass factories.

For dinner, I can recommend Cantinone Storico 041.523.95.77
From your hotel go to the Accademia Bridge. Walk away from the canal toward the Accademia. Bear left. Make first left. Go over the bridge to San Vio. Restaurant is on the right, on the canal

You might find this thread about Itlay helpful
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34443340

ira

topping for kiki

Dick

Althought I agree with the advice above, there is an exception.

If you are a collector, much of the better glass may be in a private showroom not open to the public.

We bought a glass bowl in a shop in Venice and asked the shop owner how to get an "invite" to the factory in Murano where our bowl was made.

He gave us the address, told us who to ask for and wrote a personal note introducing us.

When we got to the factory, we were taken upstairs to a private showroom. This , the owner told us, is where we keep our better things.

We found the prices to be very reasonable( probably because the showroom was geared to wholesale accounts). We had to pay in cash and they wrapped our purchase for the plane.

naturegirl

Will be first time in Venice in Spring 2004 - so glad I happened upon this subject. I found on web site http://www.alilaguna.it info for a 4 hours boat excursion tour to Murano, Burano (famous for laces and brightly painted fishermen's houses) and Torcello....listed 2 tour operators. I have not checked this out re price, etc., but what is your opinion of taking a tour like this. I understand now by reading your comments that getting to Murano is easy and free.

Would appreciate your comments - I don't want to spend money and valuable time on a guided tour - if I can make my own arrangements free/low cost. Thanks.

kiki_1075

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH.. this information has been invaluable.. I have tour books and have been searching the web nightly, but hearing personal accounts is so much more helpful.

I leave for Venice next Wednesday and I am feeling much better about the trip and about the public transportation/ tours situation now that I posted the message. Thanks!!!

ellenem

naturegirl,
Does the four hours include travel time? If yes, almost two hours will be taken up with travel from one island to the next. Therefore, will 2 hours total on the three islands be enough for you?

Usually when these tours stop at Murano, they head for a particular shop--no time for exploring. You could visit all three of these places via public boats at a easonable price and more leisurely pace on your own. However, you may enjoy the quick taste--it depends on you.

MyriamC

I would definitely NOT take a tour. The islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello are so small and so easy to get to that - with a guidebook - you can easily explore them on your own.
Go to www.actv.it for time tables and routings of the vaporetto boats. Your hotel will certainly give you directions as well!

kiki

Hi Kiki,

I posted lots of specifics on Venice, but am pasting the pertinent comment on Murano below. Hope this helps!

From earlier posting:
Also, visit Murano if you want a quiet break and are interested in buying glass. The factory Cenedese at Calle G. Di Odoardo, 3/1, Fondamenta Venier, 48 had beautiful items - the chandeliers and vases are expensive, but the jewelry is very reasonable and all handmade. You'll see lots of glass jewelry in Venice and depending on your budget, you can decide. The handmade necklaces at the factory are around $100 - 200. The other ones are less but not as nice.

Kiki