Swala, Sayari, Faru Faru, Ruaha, Selous, Saadani, Mkomazi, Mikumi, etc.
Dec 2nd, 2009, 08:38 AM
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Swala, Sayari, Faru Faru, Ruaha, Selous, Saadani, Mkomazi, Mikumi, etc.
Our recent 6-week trip to East Africa allowed me to explore the Southern Parks in great detail and as a result I updated my maps of:
Saadani - http://www.go-safari.com/Saadani/saadani.htm
Mkomazi - http://www.go-safari.com/Mkomazi/mkomazi.htm
Selous - http://www.go-safari.com/Selous/selous.htm
Mikumi - http://www.go-safari.com/Mikumi/mikumi.htm
Ruaha - http://www.go-safari.com/Ruaha/ruaha.htm
Zanzibar (Nungwi and Kendwa) - http://www.go-safari.com/Zanzibar/zanzibarNorth.htm
The trip was all about timing as I wanted to see the different parks just as the rains start to arrive after a long drought and I was lucky in this respect especially in Ruaha. It is amazing how quickly the vegetation turns green and how quickly the wildlife disperses to higher ground after a bit of rain!
I also wanted to explore the far corners of Selous and Ruaha and we enjoyed both parks immensely as always. Saw everything including wild dogs! In Selous we traveled from way east at Mtemere to way west to Retreat, way south to Lukula Camp and up north past Beho Beho!
Eastern areas of Selous have many camps now (especially east of the main gate) and a steady stream of vehicles drive west every morning to the lakes and returning in the afternoons. While traffic is still light when compared to the Northern Circuit, everybody seem to visit the same areas and we were happy to finally move away from that part of the reserve. Beho Beho and Sand Rivers were amazing as were some new places further west (wildlife is a bit scarce in the west but the accommodations made up for it).
We explored the northern escarpment of Ruaha for the first time but I still prefer the areas near the Mwagusi River and Ruaha Rivers better. Some areas of Ruaha are much more productive than others as far as wildlife viewing is concerned. We traveled west as far as Mdonyo (I have been to Jongomero before and did not visit there on this trip).
I also wanted to film the wildebeest migration upon their return to the Serengeti from the Masai Mara and we were lucky to see the big herds way south-west in Singita Grumeti as well as some south-moving lines near Sayari Camp in the northern Serengeti.
We watch thousands of wildebeests and zebra from our room at Faru Faru: http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/Faru.htm
Sayari is now a permanent camp and my updated pictures are here: http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/Sayari.htm
At the new Bilila Lodge we had a great time watching elephants from our room: http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/Kempinski.htm
Tarangire was amazing as always and I updated my pictures of Swala Camp after their upgrades. The camp now looks completely different: http://www.go-safari.com/Tarangire/Swala.htm
Here are also some pictures of the new Snowcrest Hotel in Arusha: http://www.go-safari.com/Arushamoshi/snowcrest.htm
Other pictures to follow…we stayed at just about every camp of note in Ruaha, Selous, Mikumi, Saadani and Mkomazi.
Eben
Saadani - http://www.go-safari.com/Saadani/saadani.htm
Mkomazi - http://www.go-safari.com/Mkomazi/mkomazi.htm
Selous - http://www.go-safari.com/Selous/selous.htm
Mikumi - http://www.go-safari.com/Mikumi/mikumi.htm
Ruaha - http://www.go-safari.com/Ruaha/ruaha.htm
Zanzibar (Nungwi and Kendwa) - http://www.go-safari.com/Zanzibar/zanzibarNorth.htm
The trip was all about timing as I wanted to see the different parks just as the rains start to arrive after a long drought and I was lucky in this respect especially in Ruaha. It is amazing how quickly the vegetation turns green and how quickly the wildlife disperses to higher ground after a bit of rain!
I also wanted to explore the far corners of Selous and Ruaha and we enjoyed both parks immensely as always. Saw everything including wild dogs! In Selous we traveled from way east at Mtemere to way west to Retreat, way south to Lukula Camp and up north past Beho Beho!
Eastern areas of Selous have many camps now (especially east of the main gate) and a steady stream of vehicles drive west every morning to the lakes and returning in the afternoons. While traffic is still light when compared to the Northern Circuit, everybody seem to visit the same areas and we were happy to finally move away from that part of the reserve. Beho Beho and Sand Rivers were amazing as were some new places further west (wildlife is a bit scarce in the west but the accommodations made up for it).
We explored the northern escarpment of Ruaha for the first time but I still prefer the areas near the Mwagusi River and Ruaha Rivers better. Some areas of Ruaha are much more productive than others as far as wildlife viewing is concerned. We traveled west as far as Mdonyo (I have been to Jongomero before and did not visit there on this trip).
I also wanted to film the wildebeest migration upon their return to the Serengeti from the Masai Mara and we were lucky to see the big herds way south-west in Singita Grumeti as well as some south-moving lines near Sayari Camp in the northern Serengeti.
We watch thousands of wildebeests and zebra from our room at Faru Faru: http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/Faru.htm
Sayari is now a permanent camp and my updated pictures are here: http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/Sayari.htm
At the new Bilila Lodge we had a great time watching elephants from our room: http://www.go-safari.com/Serengeti/Kempinski.htm
Tarangire was amazing as always and I updated my pictures of Swala Camp after their upgrades. The camp now looks completely different: http://www.go-safari.com/Tarangire/Swala.htm
Here are also some pictures of the new Snowcrest Hotel in Arusha: http://www.go-safari.com/Arushamoshi/snowcrest.htm
Other pictures to follow…we stayed at just about every camp of note in Ruaha, Selous, Mikumi, Saadani and Mkomazi.
Eben
Dec 2nd, 2009, 04:58 PM
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Thank you as always for another valuable post, Eben.
I'm interested to know your take on Mkomazi. Did you stay in the park? I assume it's a good area for the green season, but not particularly for the dry in terms of wildlife? We camped in West Kili last year, but would like to consider the Usambara/Pare Mtns on our next trip.
I'm interested to know your take on Mkomazi. Did you stay in the park? I assume it's a good area for the green season, but not particularly for the dry in terms of wildlife? We camped in West Kili last year, but would like to consider the Usambara/Pare Mtns on our next trip.
Dec 2nd, 2009, 06:15 PM
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More, more! I'm esp. interested in the game/guiding/camp details of Beho Beho, and Kwihala in Ruaha if you were anywhere near there. We're also going to Katavi (Chada camp) in Aug. Sept/2010. If I'm remembering correctly, you went in October, yes?
Dec 3rd, 2009, 02:24 AM
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Dear all
We stayed at the following camps/lodges. Some places for one night because we visited before and others for 2 or 3 nights such as 3 nights at Babu's Camp in Mkomazi.
Saadani -
Kisampa
Safari Lodge
Tent with a View
Mkomazi -
Babu's Camp
Northern Serengeti -
Sayari
Singita Grumeti -
Faru Faru (& visited Sabora and Sasakwa)
Tarangire -
Swala
Dar es Salaam -
Dar Retreat
Holiday Inn (the new one)
Selous -
Retreat Selous
Serena Mivumo (and visited Serena Wildlife Lodge)
Lukula
Selous Impala
Lake Manze
Sand Rivers
Beho Beho
Mikumi -
Vuma Hills (& visited Wildlife Camp)
Fox Safari Camp
Ruaha -
Tandala
Mdonya Old River
Kwihala
Kigelia (& visited Mwagusi to see the upgrades)
More later...
We stayed at the following camps/lodges. Some places for one night because we visited before and others for 2 or 3 nights such as 3 nights at Babu's Camp in Mkomazi.
Saadani -
Kisampa
Safari Lodge
Tent with a View
Mkomazi -
Babu's Camp
Northern Serengeti -
Sayari
Singita Grumeti -
Faru Faru (& visited Sabora and Sasakwa)
Tarangire -
Swala
Dar es Salaam -
Dar Retreat
Holiday Inn (the new one)
Selous -
Retreat Selous
Serena Mivumo (and visited Serena Wildlife Lodge)
Lukula
Selous Impala
Lake Manze
Sand Rivers
Beho Beho
Mikumi -
Vuma Hills (& visited Wildlife Camp)
Fox Safari Camp
Ruaha -
Tandala
Mdonya Old River
Kwihala
Kigelia (& visited Mwagusi to see the upgrades)
More later...
Dec 6th, 2009, 05:20 AM
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Hari
Yes, Lukula is part of Great Plains but it is not currently at the standard of Mara Plains (for example). The website is perhaps overselling the experience.
IMO it is currently a 3-star camp offered at 5-star rates when one considers the high costs of a private charter to get there. It is wild down there. Nothing around for miles and miles. Not for those who want to be pampered and certainly not for anyone who is nervous about life in the bush.
It is surrounded by hunting concessions and the wildlife is thin and understandably very very skittish. I have seen strange wildlife behavior before in my life but nothing like I saw at Lukula. For example, hippos leave the water and run for the bushes like stampeding buffalo at the slightest sound of a vehicle!
The conservationists (hunters are conservationists right?) down in south Selous in the concessions surrounding Lukula must be shooting at hippos in the water and kill everything else on sight. I think they also hunt from vehicles if you ask me. Shamefull.
Sadly one of the owners, Anton, was kiled by an elephant two days before our arrival (in an different location though). With one of the founders gone, I believe Lukula is perhaps in a state of transition and time will tell where the camp goes from here.
The current manager is a young guy from South Africa who is perhaps a bit inexperienced and overwhelmed to run a camp like Lukula if they want to play in the upscale market. The camp itself, the vehicles, and the setup in general is quite rough around the edges.
Most importantly, I would urge them to get more experienced walking guides as the elephants, hippos, etc are nervous and therefor very unpredictable. After my own walking experience there, it is one place where I would study the credentials of my walking guide very carefully. Accidents look likely to happen there and these can be fatal because help is 2 or more hours away by plane - but you first have to wait 2 hours for the plane to arrive!
In summary, currently Lukula IMO is a good place for the very adventurous (with money to burn) to go and play Tarzan for a week. Stalk very wild wildlife, eat basic food and explore virgin wilderness.
Yes, Lukula is part of Great Plains but it is not currently at the standard of Mara Plains (for example). The website is perhaps overselling the experience.
IMO it is currently a 3-star camp offered at 5-star rates when one considers the high costs of a private charter to get there. It is wild down there. Nothing around for miles and miles. Not for those who want to be pampered and certainly not for anyone who is nervous about life in the bush.
It is surrounded by hunting concessions and the wildlife is thin and understandably very very skittish. I have seen strange wildlife behavior before in my life but nothing like I saw at Lukula. For example, hippos leave the water and run for the bushes like stampeding buffalo at the slightest sound of a vehicle!
The conservationists (hunters are conservationists right?) down in south Selous in the concessions surrounding Lukula must be shooting at hippos in the water and kill everything else on sight. I think they also hunt from vehicles if you ask me. Shamefull.
Sadly one of the owners, Anton, was kiled by an elephant two days before our arrival (in an different location though). With one of the founders gone, I believe Lukula is perhaps in a state of transition and time will tell where the camp goes from here.
The current manager is a young guy from South Africa who is perhaps a bit inexperienced and overwhelmed to run a camp like Lukula if they want to play in the upscale market. The camp itself, the vehicles, and the setup in general is quite rough around the edges.
Most importantly, I would urge them to get more experienced walking guides as the elephants, hippos, etc are nervous and therefor very unpredictable. After my own walking experience there, it is one place where I would study the credentials of my walking guide very carefully. Accidents look likely to happen there and these can be fatal because help is 2 or more hours away by plane - but you first have to wait 2 hours for the plane to arrive!
In summary, currently Lukula IMO is a good place for the very adventurous (with money to burn) to go and play Tarzan for a week. Stalk very wild wildlife, eat basic food and explore virgin wilderness.
Dec 6th, 2009, 05:59 AM
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Eben,
I would like to hear more about your experience above the escarpment at Ruaha. I am scheduled to visit Mdonya Camp in Septbember and plan to go up the escarpment for a miombo experience. Did you go up the escarpment from Mdonya or from the eastern side?
I would like to hear more about your experience above the escarpment at Ruaha. I am scheduled to visit Mdonya Camp in Septbember and plan to go up the escarpment for a miombo experience. Did you go up the escarpment from Mdonya or from the eastern side?
Dec 6th, 2009, 06:13 AM
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Thanks so much, Eben. If only I could go play Tarzan, or even Jane or Chimp Cheetah.
In the meantime, I'll be interested in what you might suggest or offer for small groups, or an individual if necessary, to:
Mahale, Katavi, Ruaha, and maybe N. Serengeti up front or Selous at the end.
On a tragic note, I am so sorry one of the camp owners was killed by an elephant.
In the meantime, I'll be interested in what you might suggest or offer for small groups, or an individual if necessary, to:
Mahale, Katavi, Ruaha, and maybe N. Serengeti up front or Selous at the end.
On a tragic note, I am so sorry one of the camp owners was killed by an elephant.
Dec 7th, 2009, 02:09 AM
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Safaridude
For me in the dry season Ruaha has and will always be the kind of park where less driving means better viewing. If you drive to the river areas and wait, you will see many interesting things develop. Unfortunately, we see the camp vehicles drive and drive through woodlands and backroads away from the best areas because of the camp locations and because clients perceive that as game drives, and stopping is not!
We drove from Mdonya over the escarpment towards the Mzombe River and the source of the Mwaguzi before descending north of Mwaguzi Camp. A few scenic areas but not much wildlife. Tsetses were prolific - to escape we closed our vehicle and ran the A/C to be perfectly honest! It is a very long drive.
I assume your stay at Mdonya is about 3 or 4 nights? In that case I would not bother with the escarpment except for perhaps a panorama photo from the top but no further. I assume you will be sharing a vehicle so you may not get a change to do this anyway.
From Mdonya the three sets of springs are worth a visit if you can stand the tsetses. The camp is not in the best wildlife location although it has good resident wildlife around its perimeters.
During our stay their actual game drives were far to the east towards the Mwagusi River and beyond. You will spend a fair amount of time in the car getting to/from the best areas.
LAleslie
We enjoyed Kwihala Camp a lot because it is set on a hill with great views. Together with Jongomero they are the two most upscale options in Ruaha but the Kwihala location is much better. We also loved Kigelia which provides perhaps the best overall experience (location, intimacy, seclusion, comfort, etc). On average Mwagusi is my third choice because it is a larger camp but it all depends on client needs. I would happily stay and recommend any one of the three.
For me in the dry season Ruaha has and will always be the kind of park where less driving means better viewing. If you drive to the river areas and wait, you will see many interesting things develop. Unfortunately, we see the camp vehicles drive and drive through woodlands and backroads away from the best areas because of the camp locations and because clients perceive that as game drives, and stopping is not!
We drove from Mdonya over the escarpment towards the Mzombe River and the source of the Mwaguzi before descending north of Mwaguzi Camp. A few scenic areas but not much wildlife. Tsetses were prolific - to escape we closed our vehicle and ran the A/C to be perfectly honest! It is a very long drive.
I assume your stay at Mdonya is about 3 or 4 nights? In that case I would not bother with the escarpment except for perhaps a panorama photo from the top but no further. I assume you will be sharing a vehicle so you may not get a change to do this anyway.
From Mdonya the three sets of springs are worth a visit if you can stand the tsetses. The camp is not in the best wildlife location although it has good resident wildlife around its perimeters.
During our stay their actual game drives were far to the east towards the Mwagusi River and beyond. You will spend a fair amount of time in the car getting to/from the best areas.
LAleslie
We enjoyed Kwihala Camp a lot because it is set on a hill with great views. Together with Jongomero they are the two most upscale options in Ruaha but the Kwihala location is much better. We also loved Kigelia which provides perhaps the best overall experience (location, intimacy, seclusion, comfort, etc). On average Mwagusi is my third choice because it is a larger camp but it all depends on client needs. I would happily stay and recommend any one of the three.
Dec 9th, 2009, 06:05 AM
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Thanks for the information Eben,very interesting.
I have a couple of question.
Hopefully some day i will have the chance to visit Ruaha and , after much reading,my choice would be Mwagusi Camp.I have always read that Mwagusi is located in the best area for wildlife viewing in terms of quantity and use to vehicle animals.Also read that the quality of guides is excellent.
Now you say Mwagusi would be your 3 choice in Ruaha.
If your decision would be base exclusively on wildlife viewing chances and quality of guides and not so much on accommodation ,would your choice be the same?
Lately i had seen some information about problems with guides at Mwagusi??? Do you know something about this?
My second question is about Tarangire.How would you compare Swala´s Camp and Oliver´s camp location in terms of wildlife viewing??
Paco.
I have a couple of question.
Hopefully some day i will have the chance to visit Ruaha and , after much reading,my choice would be Mwagusi Camp.I have always read that Mwagusi is located in the best area for wildlife viewing in terms of quantity and use to vehicle animals.Also read that the quality of guides is excellent.
Now you say Mwagusi would be your 3 choice in Ruaha.
If your decision would be base exclusively on wildlife viewing chances and quality of guides and not so much on accommodation ,would your choice be the same?
Lately i had seen some information about problems with guides at Mwagusi??? Do you know something about this?
My second question is about Tarangire.How would you compare Swala´s Camp and Oliver´s camp location in terms of wildlife viewing??
Paco.
Dec 9th, 2009, 06:07 PM
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Eben, thanks so much for your always candid and extremely helpful info. I'm very much looking forward to Kwihala, esp. now. We're also going to Beho Beho. We asked our agent, Expert Africa, to prioritize game viewing and guiding, not luxury, tho I know Beho is fairly swank.
I'm only mildly adventurous so the more skittish, unpredictable wildlife in Southern Tanz. makes me swallow a little hard. I made it out of the 60s alive, and I don't want to get trampled by an elephant at this stage! Poor man.
I'm only mildly adventurous so the more skittish, unpredictable wildlife in Southern Tanz. makes me swallow a little hard. I made it out of the 60s alive, and I don't want to get trampled by an elephant at this stage! Poor man.
Feb 5th, 2010, 05:52 AM
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Hi Paco
Sorry about that. I rarely visit Fodors unless I get triggered (I have software that monitors some sites and notifies me when my name comes up) and I must've missed it.
I really try to restrict discussing pros and cons of camps on public forums because there is always more to the reasoning that can be typed and I cannot make suggestions unless I know more about you!
As for Tarangire, both camps are in great locations. There are other things that come into play when choosing between them. Oliver's is due for upgrades soon and then it will become even tougher to pick one!
Sorry about that. I rarely visit Fodors unless I get triggered (I have software that monitors some sites and notifies me when my name comes up) and I must've missed it.
I really try to restrict discussing pros and cons of camps on public forums because there is always more to the reasoning that can be typed and I cannot make suggestions unless I know more about you!
As for Tarangire, both camps are in great locations. There are other things that come into play when choosing between them. Oliver's is due for upgrades soon and then it will become even tougher to pick one!
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