DonTopaz

The good part is that a whole bunch of tests have found nothing especially seriously amiss. The bad part is that I cut short a safari and round-the-world trip after only a few days. Here's the report:

I started out in Salzburg, a cheerful enough city that had perfect weather during my stay, where the highlight was seeing the opera Cosi Fan Tutte as part of the Salzburg Music Festival. The flight to Nairobi via Zurich was ho-hum (SWISS is an excellent airline, though no one will miss the crates they currently use on the Nairobi route), and the House of Waine was a welcoming place to spend the night before heading to the Mara in the morning.

It rained just a little while I was at Rekero, but any rain is welcome. Grass is scarce, the rivers down or dry, and it's not the time of plenty that is more typically the case her in late August. The great herds of wildebeest are elsewhere; maybe the new grass from this rain will bring them back to this part of the Mara.

Rekero Camp has a prime location, on the bank of the Talek River. No need to go on a game drive to see plenty of creatures: from the riverbank in front of the lodge I've seen hundreds of zebra crossing the (semi-dry) river, dozens of topi, more dozens of hippos in their pool just up river, a slender mongoose, 712 Thompson gazelle,

The focus here is on game viewing, and the guides are superb. The camp is especially well known because Jackson Looseyia, the camp's co-host, was one of the presenters on the BBC's Big Cat Diary program(me). (In fact, Nigel Someoneorother, who produced the show, was a guest in camp while I was there.)

I was able to go on 3 game drives, and all were productive. One of the many joys of the Mara for me is seeing so many different species of herbivores blissfully mingling, and there have been ample opportunities for that. Zebras, eland, topi, hartebeest, Thompson's gazelle, warthogs, and impala might all be hanging in the same area. Of course, that creates a virtual cafeteria for predators.

Here's a brief video of a few cats, all of which had just successfully hunted: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac85GOFu-0U

One highlight/lowlight was coming across a cheetah who had just successfully hunted a Thompson's, and the cheetah was munching away at the unlucky gazelle's hindquarters. Alas, the sorry victim was not yet dead, and the cheetah eating while the legs were twitching was a gruesome sight indeed. Much more pleasing was another cheetah and her cub who had just taken down an impala, but these cheetahs had done the killing job efficiently. We were about 20 meters from them when they decided to take full advantage of our vehicle, and they dragged the impala under our back wheels to dine and relax in the shade. On another drive, we found the stunningly beautiful leopard that they call Olive sitting up in a tree.

OK, I do have a few gripes about the Mara compared to places I've been in Botswana and private concessions in So. Africa: I hate the semi-closed vehicles. They are just awful compared to the open vehicles -- I find them really restrictive. As much as I dislike the type of vehicle, even worse is the numbers of vehicles. When you have 6 or 8 or 10 vehicles around a cat, it's lousy for the people viewing, and it must be miserable for the cat.

Back to Rekero: This place puts to rest the theory that most people on safari are 1st-timers. All but one of the guests here are veterans of safaris, and most have been to Rekero before (for one couple, it's their 10th visit.) Bookings here are strong for this year, but some winds of change are blowing. One of the co-owners is getting out of the business. His daughter (Dudu) and her fiance (Jono) are doing the camp managing this season, and the hope is that the other co-owner (Gerard) will become primary owner. (I probably have a few facts wrong, but I believe that the gist of it is correct.)

The tents are simple but pleasant. Safari showers, solar-powered lighting, ample storage space, and space in front of the tent to sit and relax. The main lodge is functional if a bit dark, and one of the best features is the view from in front of the lodge up and down the Talek.

I had not been feeling great when I left home, and headed to Salzburg hoping that things would improve. After 2 days at Rekero, it was clear that something was wrong. I decided that I needed to return home.

I am very, very glad that I had my mini laptop (netbook) with me. I brought it primarily to back up videos from my camcorder -- didn't expect to have or need internet access during the trip. But when I needed it, I am awfully glad it was available. I was able to get wireless access, and because of that I was able to sort out arrangements to fly back as expeditiously as possible from Nairobi to Boston. The folks at Rekero contacted my ground agents, Cheli and Peacock, and they were also top-notch in making things smooth between Rekero and the Nairobi international airport.

(I did lose a couple of days at Rekero, a couple more at Ngala, and 2 nights in Hong Kong. Was I unlucky to miss out on that, or was I lucky to have had the opportunity to enjoy the first part of the trip? All a matter of perspective, comrades.)

Kavey

I'm so sorry to hear that you had to abort your trip for health reasons but pleased to here it's proved to be nothing too serious.

Sounds like a great trip.

The camp is one I have looked at, and of course, it received some good publicity when Jackson was on TV - not that the camp was mentioned by name but I'm sure many people would have googled to find out which camp he was associated with.

You talk about a lady called Dudu who will be managing the camp. Is that Dudu Douglas-Hamilton, Saba's sister? I recognised the name Dudu immediately, as I know the sisters worked together on a documentary I watched some time back. I don't think Dudu is that common a name so wondered if it was same person. In which case, is the camp part-owned by the Douglas-Hamiltons? I did not know that!

canadian_robin

How disappointing that you had to cut your trip short, but how lucky that you were able to do so much more easily than I would have expected.

We spent a day in the Rekero area last month (as part of a week-long visit to the Mara) and tracked a leopard - perhaps it was Olive. We also came across a cheetah, and several lions that our guide told us were from the Rekero pride. Obviously, you chose a good camp.

Thank you for the videos - I loved the cheetah dragging the impala into the shade of your vehicle. What a great sighting!

I hope this note finds you well. Robin

safarimama

I'm so sorry to hear about your health problems while on vacation. I hope you are well now.

Thank you so much for this report. I love Rekero and Jackson. Did he say anything about the Jackson Five leopards?; he named them that on the BBC's Big Cat Diary last fall. Since then Bella has died of old age and another younger one was found dead recently (killed by a lion?). It was first thought it was Binti, but reports from Jackson was inconclusive. We know Olive and Kali are often seen, so it's not them. Aya has also been seen since, but she's more elusive. I got hooked on this soap opera!!!

Me too, I'm curious who the Rekero partner is?

sandi

Glad to hear you're doing better.

Gerard - is one of the Beaton's, owners of Rekero!

atravelynn

Hope you are feeling better. I'd say overall you are lucky to have seen what you did and be in good enough health to write about it. For those who travel frequently, illness on a trip and even a trip cut short will likely happen eventually.

Thanks for the report and congrats on some fascinating sightings, especially the cheetah, one of my favorites.

So even staying at Rekero, probably one of the best places in the Mara for safari enthusiasts, does nothing to insulate you from many visitors?

You mentioned some rain, that's encouraging. Did the Mara appear to be in the midst of a drought?

DonTopaz

Lynn, I agree that I was very fortunate indeed, both in what I was able to see and to be able to return home safely and well.

Staying at Rekero helps with the crowds to a limited extent. The camp has only 8 or 10 tents (and the camp was fully booked), so it's relatively peaceful in camp. And, the Rekero guides are good enough to find their own sightings rather than tracking the creatures with 4 wheels. Nevertheless, there were half a dozen times in 3 drives when I saw 5 or more vehicles at a sighting (at one sighting -- and I have no idea what it was -- I counted 8 vehicles).

As for the rains, or lack of them, all of Kenya is having a serious drought, with both people and critters suffering for it. Water is becoming scarce. There's a lot less vegetation for animals, and virtually all of the herbivores are not doing as well as they normally do. Hippos are having to travel much farther than normal to find food, and many have been exposed to the sun for too long. During a drought several years ago, the hippo population was reduced considerably by a drought. Flying from Nairobi to the Mara, the terrain is absolutely brown until about 30-40 kilometers from the airstrip, when the grasses turn very slightly green(ish). There did seem to be rains in the direction of Tanzania when I was there (about 5-7 days ago).

This whole event also got me to thinking about traveling solo vs traveling with a partner. I've done plenty of both, but becoming ill and deciding to abort the trip takes on a whole different dimension when someone is traveling with you.

safarimama

To your good continued health!! And to your next safari!!!

PS. I thought Gerard/the Beaton family and Jackson were the two owners/partners of Rekero. Is there an investment partner also, who is pulling out? You got me thinking!!!!

HariS

Hi Rizzuto,

FIrst of all, very glad everything is all right with you!!!

Thanks for the report on Rekero and the Youtube clip of yours shows some great cheetah viewing as well as the drought in the Mara. Rekero sounds like a great camp for the Mara.

Regards,
Hari

LAleslie

Major bummer having to come home too soon. What a nicely written, succint and informative trip report. My question: Given your gripes about the vehicles and tourists, would you venture into this area again? Those two things have been keeping me away.

DonTopaz

LAleslie, this was my 2nd trip to the area, so I did have a reasonably good idea of the drawbacks.

If I had unlimited funds and unlimited time on Earth, I might go on safari in the area oh, once or twice for every ten safaris, and only to try to catch the migration. I'd head to Botswana for 6 or 7 of the others, then try out this place or that for the remaining trips. Peacefulness and enjoying the noise of nothing but Nature are extremely high on my list of pleasures, and those are can be lock-tight guarantees, or as close as you can get to such a thing, in the parts of Botswana that I've been lucky enough to visit.

HariS

Rizzuto,

Have you spoken to these camps and lodges to make up the lost safari days another time, for your next safari?

Kavey

Rizzuto, any feedback on the Dudu question?

DonTopaz

Hari, I wasn't aware that there's a possibility of receiving credit for nights that I missed. I will check into it.

Kavey, I have no idea if this is the same Dudu. My understanding is that the woman at Rekero is a daughter of one of the owners.

atravelynn

Re: credit mentioned by Hari.
Great idea and it never hurts to ask. Especially if you book again, apply the couple of nights missed and add some more, that could be a winning formula for you both.

If you had travel insurance, that could help with your losses also.

Kavey

Thanks Rizzuto, wasn't sure if you didn't know or had just missed the question!

HariS

Lynn,

Think about it ....... it's all in building good brand loyalty.

LAleslie

Thanks Rizzuto, good answer. I feel the same way about peacefulness and the "noise of nothing," which is why we're looking into Southern Tanzania and Mozambique. Sounds like there are some wildlife viewing tradeoffs for fewer tourists and empty landscapes. But I'd like to do everything eventually. Why is life so short and my bank account so limited?

Kavey

This morning, was driving to work, actually, was passenger as husband was VERY kindly dropping me, even though he was meant to be working from home, because I wasn't feeling 100%. Anyway, we were creeping forward in a traffic queue down a road with quite a lot of greenery to either side, and I could hear a number of different bird calls, so opened the window to hear them a bit more clearly. And the weather was that autumnal crisp morning, beautiful sunshine but hanging low in the sky, and chilly on the skin...

We both suddenly said how it reminded us of Africa, which was so odd because we were in a residental area in a traffic jam for goodness sake, and yet...

That low sun (which, in Africa, would be only starting it's ascent into the sky to turn into a much warmer day later), that chill on the skin at the beginning of the game drive and the only sound being the various bird calls...

Magic!

sandi

Spot on Kavey -

How often do we not simply stop to smell the air and hear the birds in our own backyards. Believe me, the birds are constantly and crazily chirping away here in NYC especially in the spring when windows are open! My first thought is immediately Afree-kah, but it's not... it's home!