melissaom

I somehow went on a two year hiatus with no Africa (ok, Asia and Australia are also nice and deserve 3 week visits) and now having been back from Botswana for 2 weeks I can't stop thinking about it. I have to go back in 2008!

We loved Bots but I think we will go back to Zambia this time, depending on what quotes I get. We always travel in late Sept/early October, and I thought I might try another Zambia safari before they become as expensive as Bots!

Here's the two options I am looking at. We want to go to new lodges this time (but I am having separation anxiety from Kaingo, love the hides there).

3 nights Tafika or Kaingo
3 nights Luangwa River Lodge
3 nights Old Mondoro
3 nights Chiawa


OR

Since we have never been to the Lower Zambezi (just SL), maybe:

3 nights Chongwe
3 nights Old Mondoro
3 nights Chiawa
3 nights Ruchomechi (there must be is an easy way to get across the Zambezi River to do this!! Anyone? Please??)

I keep hearing everyone talk about their TAs but no names (I know that is hard to do here). At the moment, I am just sending messages to the lodges as that is what I did on our last trip to Zambia in 2004, which was fine since it was only SL. As these itineraries require more flights though, I am thinking a TA would be great (if I knew a good one based there).

If it helps, eles (for me) and cats (for DH) are important. Game viewing is number one, then comfort. (We liked Kaingo over Chichele for that very reason). A mix of bush camps and nicer camps is welcome!

Are the properties on the Lower Zambezi too close together? If I can't get over to Ruchomechi without it costing a zillion, is there another camp I should consider down there? I am just thinking that getting between SL and LZ is too much of a pain?

Please get out your red pens and start tearing the itinerary apart. Thanks in advance!

HariS

Late Sept into October, the Masai Mara should be alive and kicking too!!!

matnikstym

I've been to Tafika, Luangwa River Lodge and Chongwe, and would recommend all three.
<i> I am just thinking that getting between SL and LZ is too much of a pain?</i>
Not a pain at all, you'll get a morning game drive at South Luangwa camp, drive to Mfuwe, fly to L.Z. (with a stop in Lusaka) and get an afternoon game drive at your L.Z. camp.

melissaom

HariS,

You have a solid point! We have always stayed away from the Mara as we have heard the number of cars can be...well, like a herd itself. We really don't like being reminded that it isn't just &quot;us and the animals&quot;, so we have not even considered Kenya (or Tanzania for the same reason).

What do you think? I love the idea of Kenya (and I would finally get to go visit my 3 adopted eles), but can one really go there and not have 10 cars around a kill?

Thanks for your input, everyone!

HariS

I haven't been to the Mara since 2002 ..... that was the year after 9/11 and crowds weren't at their highest. We were at Little Governor's camp that year, and it seemed like fewer cars in that general part of the Mara ...... there were plenty of sightings around.

Infact, our plane couldn't land on the Governors airstrip because it was full of wildebeest. Had to circle around for quite a few minutes before the jeeps could chase them off the airstrip.

Maybe others with more current travel experiences in the Mara could make their suggestions .....

As for Tanzania, i hope to visit either Feb or March of 2009

steeliejim

Suppose I should be sleeping (why is jetlag worse for me coming back rather than going?), or at least working on my trip report/photos having just returned (Sun. afternoon) from most of the places you mentioned. It was only our second safari, but our experience last year was so wonderful we went to the same parks, and in the case of Old MOndoro and Chiawa, the same camps--we liked them and the people there, so very much.

First, logistics in pairing So. Luangwa with Lower Zambezi have been made easier than ever. No need to go back through Lusaka which is what we did last year. We took a direct flight from the Jekki air strip near Old Mondoro directly to Mfue. Saved hours in xfers. I've heard nice things about Chongwe, and it is cheaper than Chiawa. But Chiawa is absolutely wonderful, tented camp, but in the style of Out of Africa. We were in the Cheetah tent (more like a suite) with double sinks, clawfoot tub, inside and outside shower). It's well inside the park, whereas Chongwe is is just outside. Both are relatively close together, though, so, I'd choose one or the other. At Chiawa, more time can be spent game viewing esp. on night drives.


Lots of ellies are guaranteed at Chiawa/Old Mondoro. They often join you for lunch. Buffalo are often in camp, too. But, management and staff are very attentive and safety conscious. No unescorted going out of your tent at night or when animals are present, and two way radios for communication. Old Mondoro is a must if you visit the Lower Zambezi.

We saw leopards every day (and night) in the eight nights at Chiawa (3) and Old Mondoro (5). And not just fleeting sightings. Of course, cats being elusive by nature, there is no guarantee of repeats. Leopards, esp. seem to be thriving, due, in part, we were told, to fewer hyenas. More about that in my report.

The lion prides are in transition with Douglas who has been reigning over both prides in residence looking to be on the inevitable downside side of his dominance. And, three handsome males have made their way across the Zambezi from Zimbabwe (seems that it's not just the people trying to escape). They cover a lot of ground, and we saw them multiple times at both camps. So, there is likely to be a new order next year.

We love Luangwa River Lodge. Great attention to detail, beautiful accommodations. Wonderful food (including home made ice cream and sorbets--yum!)and superb guiding.

It is nearer the So. Luangwa entrance (although you cross the river rather than going through the main gate like many of the other camps have to do), and the game is plentiful and varied. However, you will see more vehicles than farther into the park at Kaingo/Mwamba.

Maybe I'll see you next year when (no longer trying to resist the pull) I return to Zambia.


Jim

melissaom

Thanks so much for your post, Jim and welcome back!

I am so glad to hear about the direct transfer between Jekki and Mufue - I was wondering when someone was going to get smart and start offering flights that avoid Lusaka! Great news!

I am just starting to get the offers in from the lodges - my oh my the prices have substantially increased since 2004! Yikes!

Now I just need to nail down the dates - Chiawa is already booked out on the original times we wanted, so I need to get a move on!

Would still love to hear if anyone has combined Lower Zambezi with Ruchomechi?

Thanks!

melissaom

Sorry, that should read &quot;Ruckomechi&quot;.

atravelynn

I can recommend Tafika, but no hides when I was there. If it is possible to canoe from Sausage Tree (between Chiawa and Old Mondoro) to Old Mondoro on the Chifungulu Channel, I would highly recommend it. I believe Steeliejim just came back and at the moment some curious crocs have put the kabash on canoeing this particular route. But in the future it may be fine.

TAs that have been used in Southern Africa with success by Fodorites:

Africa Adventure in Ft. Lauderdale
Eyes on Africa in Chicago
Fish Eagle in Houston

Africa Adventure did a great Zambia trip for me in 2003. I ended up with an almost entirely private trip at group pricing.

I asked one of the camp managers in Botswana about good Africa-based travel agents and The Zambezi Safari Company was mentioned.

melissaom

Thanks so much for the TA info, Lynn. I will check in with Africa Adventure and the the Zambezi Safari Company (the latter in the same time zone as me!)

Now i just need to convince DH that 12 days are really better than 9, and he can fish at Chiawa if he doesn't want to go on walks or drives all the time.

melissaom

Decision time!

We booked the flights all the way to Lusaka today...now we have to choose the camps. It looks like we will start at Chiawa and then Old Mondoro (3 nights each, at least that has been decided!)

The tough decision is S. Luangwa... We have been to Kaingo before and love the staff and activities. But, we have heard wonderful things about Tafika from people we have met on safari (especially about the owners) but many people here seem to also like Luangwa River Lodge.

If you had to choose 3 nights each between Kaingo, Tafika and Luangwa River Lodge, which 2 camps would you choose?

Any and all input is appreciated! Thanks!

steeliejim

Hi,

Will be posting the pix and beginning of the trip soon, I promise!

Here's a thought: three nights at Luangwa River Lodge and three nights at the Mwamba Bush Camp. Two very different parts of the park and different experiences. Luangwa River Lodge is beautifully designed and built, and the people, food and guiding are wonderful. It's set well off the beaten path, but there definitely will be more traffic on drives than farther into the park. It might be a good transition after spending time at the more basic, but also wonderful Mwamba. OTOH, I'd like to try Tafika myself on a future trip. That microlight flight sounds amazing!

Jim

nyama

Options for transfers Lower Zambezi NP to Mana Pools:

1. Road transfer via Chirundu border post. Contact the Zambian operators if they offer road transfers to Chirundu, and WS if they will pick you up there (Vundu Camp does).

2. Air transfer via intl airports. That means Jeki - Lusaka, Lusaka - Kariba and Kariba - Mana West (not cheap!).

LAleslie

Melissaom,
Another TA to interview is Julian Harrison the owner of Premier Tours out of Philadelphia. We used them once for our first trip to Southern Africa, and are doing so again starting Tues. for Botswana. A fellow named Bob Berghaier handled the trip and was knowlegable and efficient. Another plus is that he's a former zoo keeper at the Philly Zoo, so is very focused on animals.
Leslie

atravelynn

I spent 6 nights at Tafika and found the guiding and personal attention to be outstanding. What I mean by the attention is several times used the vehicle for a regular game drive and to get to a specific walking location and also had the scout along for the walk. Even though there were other guests doing their thing, as one guest I was allowed to monopolize guide, scout and vehicle for outings.

When something interesting was happening near camp, we would all hop into the vehicle and go check it out, even though it was not game activity time.

I did not do the microlight but those who did were thrilled.

luangwablondes

Old Mondoro
Chiawa
Ruchomechi
Chickwenya

Try Nickson at the Zambia Safari Company in Lusaka. He has assisted me many times and my friends. They most likely have worked out the transfer across the river. I know they do a flawless transfer for canoeing the Zambezi on the Zim side. You can also try John Stevens company- one of the top guides in Africa. The original Chickwenya was built by him many years ago. He might be keyed into transfers like this.

nyama

I doubt that John will do that - he's no longer involved in any Mana Pools operation and only offers guided safaris for his clients.

As already mentioned above, Vundu Camp (Bushlife Safaris) offers transfers from Chirundu to Mana Pools (Nick Murray told me that two weeks ago). So there might be a chance that Ruckomechi (WS) does the same.

luangwablondes

I'm the one that told you about John Stevens.I was with John on his 1st return to Chickwenya in '87.

Keyed in=knowledge.

The company has set up safari plans for people in the past, even though they haven't booked a safari with John as a guide.

I mentioned these other companies so there is a choice, instead of finding out that sure they can get a transfer from Chirundu to camp, but how to get a transfer from LZNP camps to Chirundu to meet up with that transfer. It would be easier(and make sense) to have one company arrange it all.

melissaom

Thanks for all the recent info on the Zim transfers - it is not easy!

I think it will be simpler just to do an all Zim itinerary, so for this trip we are going to stay on the Zambian side. I am going to start planning a Zim only itinerary for June 08 though, so I will definitely contact the agents listed.

SteelieJim - After reading more about LRL, I think it is too modern for me. On the one hand, it would be great to end our journey there as it is close to the airport, I can actually dry my hair the day I leave and the rooms look wonderful. On the other hand, I did not like reading about people using their cellphones on game drives and if my husband ever found out about the internet connection they have there I wouldn't see him the last 3 days! I just want to stay as disconnected for as long as possible.

So, it looks like it will be three nights each in Chiawa, Old Mondoro, Kaingo and ending at Tafika. I am going to surprise DH with a microflight trip as well.

By the way, for those that are interested, I got the new rack rates for the LZ and SL Sanctuary properties opening in 2008. I was considering staying at Kulefu and Chongwe on this trip as well (instead of going up to SLNP) but then when I saw them on a map with Chiawa and Old Mondoro I realized they are all within about 35 miles of eachother...

Thanks again for your help, everyone. I will post what I put together for Zim as well.

Cooncat4

Hi Melissaom - Just another person's two-pence here. The Tafika/Kaingo plan is a solid one. Tafika is one of my favorites and you'll love the microlight. Love Kaingo as well - located in a very beautiful area of the park.

I'd just like to add another voice for LRL. I think it's gotten a rep. for being too luxurious because of a certain someone who used to post here who had a particular penchant for luxury. LRL is barefoot luxury. It's actually very laid back, very comfortable and it's small - not a big, impersonal lodge. No, it's not a bush camp, but it's very comfortable and would also be an excellent choice - as you noted it's close to the airport which gives you more time in the bush. Unless things have changed, I don't think the internet access is that &quot;accessible.&quot; I think it's in their office in back and I doubt your husband would want to spend much time there! Anyway - it sounds like you have a wonderful trip planned.

Have a great one!