I just really really like trees.
If National Parks were celebrities, the A-listers would be as expected: Yellowstone, the Redwoods, the Grand Canyon, Yosemite, and the Rockies. These parks host some of the most famous natural landscapes in the U.S., from geysers to glaciers to, well, the Grand Canyon. It’s pretty hard for a U.S. National Park to fly under the radar.
But while most National Parks conjure images of the geologic extremes of the American Wild West, one lonely little gem hides out in South Carolina. Congaree National Park sits just 20 minutes south of Columbia, the state’s administrative capital. And while you won’t find towering mountains or rushing waterfalls here, you also won’t find the number one hallmark of National Parks around the country today: the crowds. Which, in turn, allows you, the visitor, to get to the real specialness of a National Park: the stunning majesty of wild nature.
It’s not that Congaree lacks visitors, but since the Park remains remarkably uncrowded, it’s easier to find peace and awe in the wildness of the natural earth. Without the throngs of visitors clamoring for the shot over Angel’s Landing or clogging up the trails at Grand Prismatic Spring, it’s possible to wander through Congaree and watch a barred owl land on a branch next to you—he may even swivel his head to look right at you. Paddle through the creeks past alligators, turtles, and river otters that pay you no mind. The frogs will continue to croak as you walk the boardwalk trail; the warblers warble, and the woodpeckers peck. Congaree even offers a unique flash of bioluminescence. In late spring, synchronous fireflies light up the woods in a positively fantastical, fairy-like display. You probably wouldn’t like it if you aren’t impressed by glittering phenomena of fancy.
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And all this is brought to you by the magnificence of Congaree’s rare old-growth floodplain forest, the largest remnant of its kind left in the United States. Ninety-nine percent of the forest that once swathed the American South from Texas to Virginia as far back as 10,000 years ago has been lost to logging and the development of floodplains.
According to the Eastern Native Tree Society, Congaree boasts the tallest known specimens of 15 tree species and exhibits unusual characteristics of a forest.
For instance, bald cypress trees grow “knees,” or extensions of the tree’s roots that grow around the main trunk in knobby mini-stumps. Scientists haven’t discovered their exact function, but based on the ecosystem where these trees grow–swampy floodplains—it would stand to reason that the knees provide more structural stability for a forest standing up to extreme elements. The fact that the wood of bald cypress trees is rot and water-resistant means that they can live to over 1,000 years old (its wood is often referred to as “wood eternal” due to its slow decomposition, and thus, why it has been used so extensively in the lumber industry). These giant trees, along with pappaw, loblolly pine, and sweetgum—some of which are considered “champions,” or the largest in the state or nation–grow to 150 feet or more. It’s no wonder Congaree has earned its appellation as the “Redwoods of the East.”
Congaree is an easy jaunt from Columbia, a city where you’ll find a surprising number of museums, restaurants, and attractions. From its bustling Saturday morning farmer’s market to the classic Nickelodeon cinema, Columbia is the perfect place to find accommodations while visiting Congaree National Park. The best stay in town is at Hotel Trundle, a funky boutique with oodles of personality and top-notch design. The spaciousness of the room easily ensures the comfort of a family of four. Situated in the heart of downtown, you’ll be a stone’s throw from the Columbia Art Museum, cool cafes (Sound Bites Eatery and Good Life Cafe both offer tasty, healthful options, plus a decent alcoholic beverage list), the producer-only street fair Soda City Market, and the National Historic Landmark South Carolina State House. Not a bad place to crash after spending the day breathing the sweet air of ancient trees and admiring the timeless glory of nature untouched.