Fodor's Expert Review Chef Mavro

George Mavrothalassitis, who took two hotel restaurants to the top of the ranks before opening this well-regarded restaurant in 1998, admits he's crazy. Crazy because of the care he takes to draw out the truest and most concentrated flavors, to track down the freshest fish, to create one-of-a-kind wine pairings, and marry French technique with global flavors and local ingredients. But for this passionate Marseilles transplant, there's no other way. The menu changes quarterly, every dish (including dessert) matched with a select wine. Choose from a four- or six-course menu or the grand degustation (vegetarian and gluten-free options are available). Etched-glass windows screen the busy street-corner scene, and all within is mellow and serene with starched white tablecloths, fresh flowers, wood floors, and contemporary Island art. Don't let the location and the understated exterior turn you away: this is a memorable gastronomic experience.