The Lodge at Chaa Creek
Hotels in downtown San Ignacio are all budget-to-moderate spots. On the western edge of town, with hotels such as the San Ignacio Resort Hotel and Ka’ana, lodgings become more upscale. The lodges along the Mopan River, a river that winds into Belize from Guatemala, tend to be in the budget-to-moderate range. Most lodges on the Macal River, such as The Lodge at Chaa Creek and duPlooy’s Lodge, are upmarket, though there are some exceptions. A number of lodges, including Mystic River, Inn the Bush, Table Rock, and Mariposa have opened on the Cristo Rey Road en route to the Mountain Pine Ridge, most also with access to the Macal River.
Queen Elizabeth II once stayed at this resort with well-appointed rooms that have verandas facing a nature reserve, making you feel like you're outside the city environs. Owned by four sisters from San Ignacio, the hotel and its Running W restaurant is a lovely lodging and dining choice at the edge of town. There's an iguana hatchery on the property, which you can tour as a guest. The hotel also has a tennis court and nice swimming pool. Birding and other excursions can be arranged by the friendly staff.
Some 800 feet above limestone cliffs and the Macal River gorge, across from Elijio Panti National Park, Black Rock Lodge has one of the most beautiful settings of any lodge in the country. The well-shaded cabins have stone or tile floors, custom-made hardwood furniture, and stunning views of the Macal River. There's also a spring-fed swimming pool. Savvy, eco-conscious owner Cameron Boyd runs the lodge on hydro and solar power and keeps room rates low. However, because you're a 35-minute drive from San Ignacio (mostly on a narrow, single-lane trail), you'll need to take all your meals here (they don't come with the room rate) and do most tours with the lodge.
Once you make it up the steep hill, you'll enjoy the best views in the Cayo at this hotel at the western edge of San Ignacio, near the Cahal Pech Maya site. You have a choice here of 78 thatched cabanas, rooms, and suites, all air-conditioned and with cable TV, plus beds in two student dorms. The restaurant serves Belizean and American fare in an open-air space with views of the town and valley below. Cahal Pech offers a variety of tours and multiday packages from the hotel. This resort is often heavily booked even in the off-season.
The low gurgle of nearby Mopan River rapids is the first and last sound of the day at Clarissa Falls Resort. Warm and friendly owner Chena Galvez and her family have spent their lives on a cattle ranch here, a rolling 900-acre expanse of grassy pasture. Over the years Chena and family have built a small colony of homey thatch cabanas for visitors to stay in. If you're on a tight budget, there's camping available and, for students only, rooms in a bunkhouse with three meals daily. The open-air restaurant by the river serves tasty mestizo dishes at modest prices.
Ka'ana brings a level of luxury to San Ignacio with tranquil gardens, a wine cellar, and spacious rooms outfitted with 500-count cotton sheets, high-end toiletries, and attentive staff. One suite has a private pool, and there's also an infinity swimming pool with waterfall and a saltwater filtration system. The poolside spa offers massage and skin and body treatments. La Ceiba restaurant is beautifully done, serving vegetables from the resort's own organic garden.
High above a bend in the Macal River is this remarkable, relaxing lodge whose grounds are right next door to the 45-acre Belize Botanic Gardens. From a vantage point 30 feet above the forest floor on the covered deck and canopied walkway, you'll see iguanas sunning in the trees. You can swim and dive off the rocks from the sandy river beach below. The food is excellent, and there's always a vegetarian option. The lodge also offers horseback riding and a full range of tours.