The Lodge at Chaa Creek
Hotels in downtown San Ignacio are all budget-to-moderate spots. On the western edge of town, with hotels such as the San Ignacio Resort Hotel and Ka’ana, lodgings become more upscale. The lodges along the Mopan River, a river that winds into Belize from Guatemala, tend to be in the budget-to-moderate range. Most lodges on the Macal River, such as The Lodge at Chaa Creek and duPlooy’s Lodge, are upmarket, though there are some exceptions. A number of lodges, including Mystic River, Inn the Bush, Table Rock, and Mariposa have opened on the Cristo Rey Road en route to the Mountain Pine Ridge, most also with access to the Macal River.
Queen Elizabeth II once stayed at this resort with well-appointed rooms that have verandas facing a nature reserve, making you feel like you're outside the city environs. Owned by four sisters from San Ignacio, the hotel and its Running W restaurant is a lovely lodging and dining choice at the edge of town. There's an iguana hatchery on the property, which you can tour as a guest. The hotel also has a tennis court and nice swimming pool. Birding and other excursions can be arranged by the friendly staff.
Some 800 feet above limestone cliffs and the Macal River gorge, across from Elijio Panti National Park, Black Rock Lodge has one of the most beautiful settings of any lodge in the country. The well-shaded cabins have stone or tile floors, custom-made hardwood furniture, and stunning views of the Macal River. There's also a spring-fed swimming pool. Savvy, eco-conscious owner Cameron Boyd runs the lodge on hydro and solar power and keeps room rates low. However, because you're a 35-minute drive from San Ignacio (mostly on a narrow, single-lane trail), you'll need to take all your meals here (they don't come with the room rate) and do most tours with the lodge.
High above a bend in the Macal River is this remarkable, relaxing lodge whose grounds are right next door to the 45-acre Belize Botanic Gardens. From a vantage point 30 feet above the forest floor on the covered deck and canopied walkway, you'll see iguanas sunning in the trees. You can swim and dive off the rocks from the sandy river beach below. The food is excellent, and there's always a vegetarian option. The lodge also offers horseback riding and a full range of tours.
Kick back in a hammock and listen to the river trickle by and the birds chirp on your private veranda in these eco-friendly jungle cabanas. Set on a 100-acre rain-forest reserve, with farm-to-table dining and lovely pool area, Table Rock is a friendly and serene choice for lodging in the jungle. Technically in the tiny village of Cristo Rey, it's about 5 miles south of San Ignacio town.