The Lodge at Chaa Creek
Hotels in downtown San Ignacio are all budget-to-moderate spots. On the western edge of town, with hotels such as the San Ignacio Resort Hotel and Ka’ana, lodgings become more upscale. The lodges along the Mopan River, a river that winds into Belize from Guatemala, tend to be in the budget-to-moderate range. Most lodges on the Macal River, such as The Lodge at Chaa Creek and duPlooy’s Lodge, are upmarket, though there are some exceptions. A number of lodges, including Mystic River, Inn the Bush, Table Rock, and Mariposa have opened on the Cristo Rey Road en route to the Mountain Pine Ridge, most also with access to the Macal River.
Some 800 feet above limestone cliffs and the Macal River gorge, across from Elijio Panti National Park, Black Rock Lodge has one of the most beautiful settings of any lodge in the country. The well-shaded cabins have stone or tile floors, custom-made hardwood furniture, and stunning views of the Macal River. There's also a spring-fed swimming pool. Savvy, eco-conscious owner Cameron Boyd runs the lodge on hydro and solar power and keeps room rates low. However, because you're a 35-minute drive from San Ignacio (mostly on a narrow, single-lane trail), you'll need to take all your meals here (they don't come with the room rate) and do most tours with the lodge.
The low gurgle of nearby Mopan River rapids is the first and last sound of the day at Clarissa Falls Resort. Warm and friendly owner Chena Galvez and her family have spent their lives on a cattle ranch here, a rolling 900-acre expanse of grassy pasture. Over the years Chena and family have built a small colony of homey thatch cabanas for visitors to stay in. If you're on a tight budget, there's camping available and, for students only, rooms in a bunkhouse with three meals daily. The open-air restaurant by the river serves tasty mestizo dishes at modest prices.
With clean rooms, a good restaurant, and convenient tours, the four-story Martha's Guesthouse provides just about everything you need right in the heart of downtown San Ignacio. The regular rooms are a bit smaller, but for a little more money, you can get a larger room with cable TV, a refrigerator, and a balcony. An annex called the Inn at Martha's about a block away adds six rooms. Martha's Restaurant, with local art on the walls and a sweet garden patio, is open every day, serving pizza and local dishes.
High above a bend in the Macal River is this remarkable, relaxing lodge whose grounds are right next door to the 45-acre Belize Botanic Gardens. From a vantage point 30 feet above the forest floor on the covered deck and canopied walkway, you'll see iguanas sunning in the trees. You can swim and dive off the rocks from the sandy river beach below. The food is excellent, and there's always a vegetarian option. The lodge also offers horseback riding and a full range of tours.