10 Best Sights in Rhodes and the Dodecanese, Greece

A 15-minute climb from the village center up to the Acropolis of Lindos leads past a gauntlet of Lindian women who spread out their lace and embroidery like fresh laundry over the rocks, plus the usual touristy shops and clothing boutiques. The final approach ascends a steep flight of stairs, past a marvelous 2nd-century-BC relief of the prow of a Lindian ship, carved into the rock. The entrance takes you through the medieval castle built by the Knights of St. John, then to the Byzantine Chapel of St. John on the next level. The Romans, too, left their mark on the acropolis, with a temple dedicated to Diocletian. On the upper terraces, begun by classical Greeks around 300 BC, are the remains of elaborate porticoes and stoas, commanding an immense sweep of sea and making a powerful statement on behalf of Athena and the Lydians (who dedicated the monuments on the acropolis to her). The lofty white columns of the temple and stoa on the summit must have presented a magnificent picture. The main portico of the stoa had 42 Doric columns, at the center of which an opening led to the staircase up to the Propylaia (or sanctuary). The Temple of Athena Lindia at the very top is surprisingly modest, given the drama of the approach. As was common in the 4th century BC, both the front and the rear are flanked by four Doric columns. Numerous inscribed statue bases were found all over the summit, attesting in many cases to the work of Lindian sculptors, who were clearly second to none.

It's on this route that donkeys are frequently seen carrying a tourists steeply uphill on their poor backs in the boiling heat—this is both unnecessary (the walk is short, just take it slow), and annoying for passersby who often need to leap out of the way. Even without the donkey, the acropolis is not considered suitable for those with mobility issues.

A vast swath of beautiful Agios Stefanos Beach, just north of Kamari, is now occupied by the sprawling Ikos Aria resort village. Every yard of the rest is given over in summer to beach bars renting umbrellas and chairs and offering activities that include waterskiing and jet skiing. Expect to pay around €50–60 for a waterskiing session, and €60–€70 for Jet Skiing. Two early Christian basilicas crown a promontory at the southern end of the beach, adding to the allure of this lovely spot. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); showers; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming.

One of the great medieval monuments in the Mediterranean, the walls of Rhodes are wonderfully restored and illustrate the engineering capabilities as well as the financial and human resources available to the Knights of St. John. For 200 years the knights strengthened the walls by thickening them (by up to 40 feet in places) and curving them so as to deflect cannonballs. The moat between the inner and outer walls never contained water; it was a device to prevent invaders from constructing siege towers. You can get a sense of the enclosed city's massive scale by walking for free inside the moat; entrances can be found at the gates of St. Athanasius and Ambroise. It's particularly stunning early in the morning or in the evening, and makes a great spot for kids to run around and play games.

Accessible by water taxi from Chialos, or via a long walk, taking the 1-km-long (½-mile-long) rough path leading east of Pedi Bay. Once there, a sandy beach slopes gently into the sea, providing shallow waters that are excellent for children; it's backed by a grove of shade-giving trees. Despite the relative isolation, the beach attracts summertime crowds and is well equipped with food vendors and other facilities. Amenities: food and drink;  toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming.

Though the beach is pebbly rather than sandy, a handy location right at the edge of Old Town makes this seaside strip immensely popular, and it's lined with chairs and umbrellas. An offshore diving platform is a huge hit with kids and what seems to be most of the teenage population of Rhodes. What you won't find here is solitude, and what semblance of peace and quiet you might find will likely be interrupted by an endless stream of hawkers selling everything from trinkets to cold drinks. Nevertheless, it's provides a good spot to cool off, with views across the water of Marmaris, Turkey. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: swimming; walking.

A deeply shaded glen watered by seven mountain springs (epta piges in Greek) is made all the more photogenic thanks to the imported peacocks that flaunt their plumage in the woods around the pools. The waters are channeled through a 164-yard-long tunnel, which you can walk through, emerging at the edge of a cascading dam and a small man-made lake where you can swim. Here an enterprising local shepherd began serving simple fare in 1945 and his sideline turned into the busy waterside taverna and tourist site of today. Despite its many visitors, the beauty of the springs remains unspoiled.

Faliraki's reputation is better these days, after authorities cracked down 20 years ago on the bars that once made this the hedonistic party capital of Greece. It remains the most popular beach resort area on Rhodes, and will be your idea of paradise or hell, depending on what you think of crowded sands backed by fun parks, supermarkets, all-inclusive resorts, and fast-food joints. Stretches of the 5 km (3 miles) of fine sand are a little less cramped than others, such as the southern end, which is officially designated as a naturist beach. Beyond its southern tip lies the beautiful Anthony Quinn Bay, named after the Mexican-American actor; while filming The Guns of Navarone in 1960, he loved it so much that he bought the land. Years later the Greek government reclaimed it, and the legal battle that ensued continued even after the actor's death. Its tiny shore fills up fast but the emerald waters here are the best on the island for snorkeling. Buses regularly run between Rhodes Town and Faliraki throughout the day and late into the evening. Amenities: food and drink; lifeguards; parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: nudists; partiers; swimming; walking.

The most popular beach on the island stretches for 1½ km (1 mile) or so along Kambos Bay, with a gently sloping sea floor that's ideal for young waders and swimmers. Sun beds line the strand of fine pebbles and sand, and pines behind the beach provide plenty of shade. The many amenities include windsurfing, waterskiing, and pedal-boat rentals. Regular bus service connects Kambos with Skala, about 6 km (4 miles) away. Amenities: food and drink; parking (no fee); showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; swimming; windsurfing.

It lives up to its name in all but one important regard: its star attraction isn't actually butterflies. In summer the Callimorpha quadripunctaria, a red- and black-speckled species of day-flying moth known as the Jersey tiger, cluster by the thousands around the low bushes of the pungent storax plant, which grows all over the area. In recent years the number of moths has diminished, partly owing to busloads of tourists clapping their hands to see the creatures fly up in dense clouds—an antic that causes the creatures to deplete their scant energy reserves, thus disturbing them and affecting their reproduction activities (needless to say, it's probably best not to do this). Access to the valley involves an easy walk up an idyllic yet crowded trail through a pretty wood, past a stream and ponds; don't miss the lower half of the trail behind the car park. There are several refreshment points on the route—the best option with the tastiest meals is Butterfly Restaurant Bar, at the end of the downhill trail, which overlooks yet more beautiful green valleys. You must visit at the right time of year to see the moths, typically mid-June to mid-September. Outside of this season, it still makes a pleasant walk, albeit void of moths.

The busiest of the villages in the Asfendhiou area is Zia, with its appealing smattering of churches and craft shops selling local honey, weavings, and handmade soaps. There is also a so-called traditional nature park—really a petting zoo where kids can feed goats, donkeys, and bunnies. Buses run here five times a day direct from Kos Town in summer, and thus the commercialization of the village has skyrocketed in recent years. But one thing the crowds can't take away is the views, with a handful of open-air tavernas, such as the excellent Oromedon, offering a fine vantage point for the village's coveted sunsets. It also makes a good base for walks in the surrounding countryside.